400w or 600w HPS / MH ? Opinions Please !!!

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
Hi Everyone :) ... Just wrapped up my 4th run and have observed the performance from my setup for each. I am using a 4' (wide) x 3' (deep) 8' (high) [ 12 sq ' ] storage / closet room. I have a 4" exhaust fan and carbon filter at the top of the room that exhausts the air up through the ceiling to a location approx 10 - 12 ft away from the room into the attic. For intake I am only using passive intake as the door to this room sets right next to a window and has sufficient venting at the floor level that keeps a negative pressure and any hints of odor under control. All seems to be ok on the venting and air movement as far as I have seen. Now on my first grow I flowered with a standard open wing hood 150 watt HPS as main light and also added in ( 2 ) Mars Hydro 300 LED [ approx 135 real watt per light ] a little later , which totaled around 420 watts. The first yield was massive almost 9 ounces under these conditions. However I thought that the temps brought on by the open hood and HPS were a little much for the size of room and decided after to switch out the 150 watt HPS for a Mars Hydro LED 600 [ 280 real watt ] giving me even more wattage for the second run.

However after the second run temps were allot easier to control since the LED run much cooler but the yield on run #2 was almost minus half of the first run bringing in only a little over 4 ounces even though I was using more lighting wattage on the second run. I chalked this up too perhaps genetics and simply set up for run #3 using the same genetics as the first run and again under the all LED lights yield was not even close to the first .. around 5 ounces again with buds much smaller than I had seen using the 150w HPS. So I carried out this last run again using the 3 LED lights and No HPS and again noticed the buds are smaller and yield not even close to what I got from the first run using the HPS as main light and LED as side lighting. So now I am under the impression that HPS will produce larger yields for me than LED ..and seemed to do even better when adding in some LED for supplemental lighting with it. So armed with this info , I have decided to go back and try my next run with HPS again since I had such a great turn out using that 150 watt first time. But I figure if I got that good of a turn out with just 150w , I imagine I can improve that even more by switching that 150w out for a 400w or 600w " Air Cooled " hood. Since I had a tad bit of heat issues with the 150 in a open hood I want to try running my exhaust through a closed hood and exhaust into attic as before.

Which brings me to my question. How hot is the air that is being exhausted off of a 400 watt HPS ? I would imagine that it can't be hot enough to start a fire ( but want to be sure ) since it will be being exhausted into a dry attic that I can not monitor. I was thinking moving to a closed air cooled 400w hood would be a perfect upgrade from my open hood 150w for this room. But if the answer is " NO " the exhausted air from the 400w light will not be hot enough to create a fire hazard in the attic then another question arises with the 600w if I can go with 400w w/o any fire hazard , how about a 600w ? My 2 biggest concerns are #1 fire and safety and # 2 being able to keep this size of room cool enough for whatever light I will be using .. which has left me torn between upgrading a bit to a 400w or upgrading allot to a 600w , of course with the small price difference I would rather go with the 600w but I don't want to over upgrade and cause further issues with possible heat or even worse safety issues. I was only leaning toward the 400w cause I can dim it down to the 150w that I was using in the first place should anything not go as planned , however the 600w even on the lowest dim setting would be 250w and that is still 100 watt more than any HPS I have used in this room before. Any suggestion and opinions are highly appreciated ..Thank you all in advance for any input.
The exhausted air will not even be close to causing a fire. If you can upgrade the grow space you should spend the money there and upgrade to a light that suites that size at a later date.
ANC brought up a scary thought..ive never seen a Lamp explode and if it does what he is saying then that's kinda scary.
Mars and viper etc will veg OK but in general they struggle to get any density. But there are legitimate LED lights that compete favourably with the HID. They don't get quiet so hot.
Unless your running known clones then its hard to compare weight per run due to the different phenos and vigour etc
 
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Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
i run a 600 and a 400 in my flower room (was running 2 600s but a ballast blew, and i had 3 400 watt ballast sitting around, and several lamps...) and the air coming out of the exhaust isn't any hotter than a hairdryer on low....you can keep your hand in it indefinitely...the ducting gets warm...never felt like it was going to burn me.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
Use only the Hortilux 600w EYE HPS Bulb.
hortilux makes very good stuff, but it's spendy. if you can afford it, go ahead, they are good bulbs, with a very good spectrum, but you can get close to the same quality for about 30% of the price. if you're trying to grow the best you can grow, for yourself, indulge....if you're trying to make a few bucks, go for the 30% of the price option
 

Mass Medicinals

Well-Known Member
I refuse to run HPS on anything but concrete flooring. If it explodes, it tends to send incendiary pieces everywhere.
Hey has that actually happened to you?

Also if the bulb explodes I'm wondering if it would be contained within the hood.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
i've had a couple burn out, and one popped, but it was in a hood, so 90% of the glass was in the hood. the rest got sucked into the ducting. it didn't burn through the ducting, guess the airflow cooled it off quickly enough. if it would have been exposed, like vertical growers use, it would have had a much higher possibility of burning something, the tarp i cover the floor with...who knows
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
Then again I'm even generally against using COBs because of the fire hazard.
 

jimihendrix1

Well-Known Member
If you can keep the temps below 84 degrees using a 600w that's what Id do.

At 12 sq/ft a 600w Hortilux gives you 50w Sq/ft. I myself woudnt go any lower than that regardless of the light source. A 600w is generally best used IMHO of course in a 3.5 x 3.5 area so the 4ft part is the part I have a bit of an issue with as this stretches the light out 1/2 a foot if you try and use the full 4ft. But it will for sure work. No question. Generally if Im going to cover a 4ftwide ect area, Id use a 1000w if I can cool it. You need really good air-flow regardless of which lights you use.

My experience tells be after genetics, strong light, with a good amount of Blue in it, as much fresh air as possible, learning how to feed, and water, keeping temps between 60-84 degrees, though I like to have temps in the high 70s, to low 80s directly on top of the canopy when lights on, low 70s lights out, and is the basics, and the more you veer off, the less you can expect. The lower the temps the less food, and water they will use. I like plants using large amounts of water, and food, but not force feeding them.

A 1000w Hortilux in a 12sq/ft area will give you 83.3w sq/ft.

The SUN is roughly 100w Sq/ft. More at/around the Equator, and/or High Altitude/Andes.

Main thing is cooling it. 1000w Hortilux is best for a 4 x 4 for me. Also use 1000w Hortilux from Seedling-Flowering. Promix BX used throughout.
 

PrometheanLeaf

Well-Known Member
fire hazard? you mean how strong they are 1-2 inches from the chip?
Or incorrect ground wiring on fixtures that pose a fire Hazard from the connections. Or from thermal run away going catastrophic on one of the cobs.

Though just wiring them correctly solves a lot of that, I'm curious though on what @ANC had in mind though.

@op 600w
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
fire hazard? you mean how strong they are 1-2 inches from the chip?
Ye, basically anything that gets close enough to the source of the light is liable to catch fire.
I had over 40 COBs in my grow before, we lit our smokes with the light.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
Ye, basically anything that gets close enough to the source of the light is liable to catch fire.
I had over 40 COBs in my grow before, we lit our smokes with the light.
heat sink
noun
noun: heatsink
  1. a device or substance for absorbing excessive or unwanted heat......
 

eyderbuddy

Well-Known Member
Ye, basically anything that gets close enough to the source of the light is liable to catch fire.
I had over 40 COBs in my grow before, we lit our smokes with the light.
this is exactly what i thought...

I once burned my head while checking my plants under my 1st cob fixture

i also almost burned down a table when i was testing the light... went to pee real quick and when i came back the table was smoking

Other than that.. COBs are great... But i use strips now...
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
Yeah we ran active cooling.
I like active cooling in that it is a super efficient heat interface with the air in the room. the sinks run cooler, and the air runs warmer.
It is just such a story when it fails unless you add a heat fuse to each unit. We were lucky in that most of our COBs desoldered themselves, would have been fucked with push on connectors.
 

eyderbuddy

Well-Known Member
Yeah we ran active cooling.
I like active cooling in that it is a super efficient heat interface with the air in the room. the sinks run cooler, and the air runs warmer.
It is just such a story when it fails unless you add a heat fuse to each unit. We were lucky in that most of our COBs desoldered themselves, would have been fucked with push on connectors.
just how hot were you running those things?
 
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