Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Did you try any of the alibubbas with added red? Im speaking with rita at meijiu about 304 boards with added 660 and 730 on separate channels.
Looking to build a new LM301B PCB
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SSR
Well-Known Member
Do you get to choose the diodes or do they just provide stock?
fragileassassin
Well-Known Member
I have 16 of those 304 plus panels with the 660nm leds in them in my tent.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Im pretty sure you can request what diode but are you gonna trust them to put it there? I think stock diode is lumileds
I think i saw u post them. But i think its it
not the same, these have 3 660s and 2 730s, on their own channels and not in line with the other diodes. Id be really interested in hearing how they grow but i think we might be getting outside the subject of this thread. Sorry op
JSheeze
Well-Known Member
Budies 101
Well-Known Member
Depends what you want to do.... I'd say you need at lest 4 to do a 4x4, 5 would be better but also odd size. That's why I like my lights, they are made for my space. So yeah, give it a shot if your space works with it.
Budies 101
Well-Known Member
read the description, its the board only. I'd do 3 boards on a flat piece of aluminum that you can buy at local steel fabrication shops (easy) for about 40$ to do a 12/42 inch light or so. Look at the their size of the board first. Then you need the Driver.
JSheeze
Well-Known Member
Sorry, pretty pcb green here, are you saying you normally put together a 42in x 12in on a flat piece of aluminum and it costs you $40 total? Or $40 for just the aluminium?
Is this what you are talking about? You're going to solder 784 individual SMDs?...
This is what I had in mind but probably push it out towards the edges a couple inches (7in instead of 9in)...
At max they'd only be driven @ 87ma (18 series, 16 parallel, but prolly wouldn't drive it that high) so I'm thinking it'd be close to 210lm/w? Or ~125k lm? Am I on the right track here?
But if it's only $40-$50ish to make one side of the ring that I'm trying to build that would be something to consider even though I'm shit for detail work.. And do they sell PCB in generic LED layouts? Or is it something you design and order? Sorry just trying to get an understanding, I've never done it.
I was also interested in if you could trust the ebay sellers, if you were getting LM301B's or just some generic 3v SMD, or am I ass backwards? Are all the 3v SMDs LM301B's, but it's just the Samsungs that are exceptional? Lol like I said pretty green haha
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Budies 101
Well-Known Member
I don't know what your lm/w will be but chances are it will be 170-190 range.
I build my own lights but the PCB is made in china for me, I had to make a gerber file for it (its like a blueprint). The whole light costs me about 290$ to make but it covers a 2x4 areas really well.
I can't say if the ebay sellers have the real thing.
JSheeze
Well-Known Member
What wattage do I need to run those 288 QB's (LM301B) to get the 223lm/w?
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Is PCB more efficient in electrical transfer than DIY wire?
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You're pushing 784 LM301B's @ 250w total for 193lm/w. That makes .3189w/diode (250w/784 diodes). Then, .3189w/2.8v = 113.89ma. Or if driven @ 3.0v, then 106ma.
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These figures are approximating 193lm/w for you. In my calculation I was 87ma max, @ 3.0v per diode, or .261w/diode where you quoted me 180lm/w (+/- 10)?
.
Just trying to figure out where my inefficiency or loss is coming from?
Budies 101
Well-Known Member
I don't know off hand but two points... And to be clear this is just my opinion.
1: Efficiency is king.... to a point.
2: The savings to run the lights at 223lm/w probably will never be realized considering the cost to get there.
So, efficiency is great as I use about 1k watts over a 5x10 VS 2,000 watts with HPS, and I feel it grows better buds in that they are rounder. I assume the shape difference is due to heat being projected onto the plant from the light. HPS is hot and thus the plant might "fluff" or foxtail more under HPS.
Next is the lm/w... When I was looking to build some lm301b lights, and I prolly will build them at some point unless better diodes hit before then... But when I was looking at the build I found that adding over 1,200 diodes hardly got me over or around 200/m/w. At some point it seems that the cost to get much over 200lm/w makes it very much not worth it IMO.
I find that 180+ Lm/w is amazing... When I started diy LED stuff 150-160 was considered "omfgz". Just keep all that in mind. 200lm/ww is like historic =D
JSheeze
Well-Known Member
I guess I just figured if you keep them cool, which shouldn't be a problem at that low of current, and if you drive em at their most efficient power setting (low amp, low voltage, 65ma 2.7v) that you'd expect what they put on their spec sheets 38-40lm/diode @ 65ma)?? Am I wrong to expect the efficacy they state? How off are other manufacturers? I thought Samsung was pretty consistent and realistic, derived from genuine data??
288 x .176w = 50.7w/QB (cool)
50.7 x 8QBs = 405.5w
405.5w × 223lm/w = 90,427lm
???
If I cranked it up to 114ma/per (722w instead 405.5w, using 8 QB's) like you were saying, I should get 193lm/w or a total of 139,400lm?? Thanks for the reply.
288 x .176w = 50.7w/QB (cool)
50.7 x 8QBs = 405.5w
405.5w × 223lm/w = 90,427lm
???
If I cranked it up to 114ma/per (722w instead 405.5w, using 8 QB's) like you were saying, I should get 193lm/w or a total of 139,400lm?? Thanks for the reply.
owsleygarcia95
Member
Haven't been on here for a while...trying to remember who had the thread with the walk through on how to wire all your own COB LED to drivers....sorry for asking random ?'s on your thread ....
Budies 101
Well-Known Member
JSheeze
Well-Known Member
2 types of wiring, series and parallel.
Series wiring uses 1 wire to connect 2 COBs and goes from (+) side of 1 COB to (-) side of other COB. Positive to negative.
|--> -DRIVER+ ---> (to + of first COB) ---v
|xxxxxv---<---<---<---<---<---<---<---<---<---<-|
|xxxxxL-> +COB- -v
|xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxL-> +COB- -v
|xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx L-> +COB- ---v
^---<---<---<---<---<---<---<---<---<---<---<---<---<--|
In series wiring the amperage stays the same. Whatever your amperage your driver is putting out is what each of the COBs will be getting (only in series wiring). The voltage on the other hand, is variable. Whatever voltage is supplied by the driver is divided by the number of COBs you're running in series. So if you have COBs that require a forward voltage of 36v to run you'd have to make sure to get a driver with enough volts to power however many COBs you plan to run in series. 3 COBs w forward voltage of 36v would need a driver capable of supplying 108v total.
Paralell wiring uses 2 wires to connect 2 COBs and goes from (+) side of 1 COB to (+) side of other COB as well as (-) side of the COB to the (-) side of the other COB. Positive to positive, negative to negative.
v-<--- +DRIVER- --->-v
|---->--- +COB- ---<----|
|---->--- +COB- ---<----|
|---->--- +COB- ---<----|
In parallel wiring the voltage stays the same. Whatever the voltage your driver is putting out is what each of the COBs will be getting (only in parallel wiring). The amperage on the other hand, is variable. Whatever amperage is supplied by the driver is divided by the number of COBs you're running in parallel. So if you have COBs that require a forward voltage of 36v to run you'd have to make sure to get a driver with at least 36 volts but how many COBs you wanted to hook up would depend on how bright you'd want them.
Wattage = voltage x amperage
Good luck
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owsleygarcia95
Member
Thanks that was a very helpful memory refresher
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Can anyone help me out? Trying to figure what diode these are? Its a 30w actual draw (+/-2%) from wall. I would like to build a rack of them and power with a meanwell driver. Thanks
30w bulb...
Could it be 3 sets of 12?...
Was hoping it's similar to these...
3 sets of 12 (@120mA/diode)??...
6.8v(from graph) × 3
=
20.4v × (.12A × 12)
=
29.376w
What's the worst, crappiest, "raised" 2835 LED that they could be? Worst case scenario in terms of efficacy??
Original post with pics of built-in driver..
https://www.rollitup.org/p/14639943/
30w bulb...
Could it be 3 sets of 12?...
Was hoping it's similar to these...
3 sets of 12 (@120mA/diode)??...
6.8v(from graph) × 3
=
20.4v × (.12A × 12)
=
29.376w
What's the worst, crappiest, "raised" 2835 LED that they could be? Worst case scenario in terms of efficacy??
Original post with pics of built-in driver..
https://www.rollitup.org/p/14639943/
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ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Lol Well if anyone wants to know IT IS 3 sets of 12 (but NOT 12 sets of 3 like I mixed up in my first post lol) .
The voltage read 74.6 and dropped quick (72.8 in 2min).
The individual voltage across the SMD was ~6.1v.
The amperage was .38A.
I think I'm guna try to slap a few together and drive with a Chinese power supply.. Biggest issue with Chinese power supply over meanwell is effeciency? Suggestions?
Bullet2112
Active Member
Suggestions??
I would suggest you spend your time, money and efforts into something worthwhile, instead of Chinese garbage....but that's just me, I got this hangup about wasting time and money....call me crazy!!
If your looking for a good way to create a fire hazard, and/or a fire.....then your on the right track!!
I would suggest you spend your time, money and efforts into something worthwhile, instead of Chinese garbage....but that's just me, I got this hangup about wasting time and money....call me crazy!!
If your looking for a good way to create a fire hazard, and/or a fire.....then your on the right track!!