DIY with Quantum Boards

CoB_nUt

CoB_nUt

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
Little update on the Warp Core build ....

After I did the mock up i started to build it out. I used Aluminum Channel for spine section
and for the Sunblaster hangers. I wanted the center area to allow Sunblaster to be able to be removed or replaced.

Each will have independent power with thumbwheel on off switched cord.
They can be daisy chained with supplied shorty cable .... so I can power that way too.

Meanwell 320 watt ... B type for dimming . Which will be by linear pot which will be removed mounted with driver. I chose to NOT add weight to rig . Had a little ship issue with Mouser , but finally got this after a delay , but am still waiting on my other driver for the 4 288 upgrade.

So I still might braze up the seams , but overall it’s pretty rigid. The Angle piece on heatsink is 3/4” and just allows clearance to QB 96.

So basically the wiring is the only thing left to do .... but am gonna get in done in a few days.

For hanging , probably drill a hole at outside corners for a small carabiner and ratchet rope.

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Nicely done. Thank you for the idea.
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
You can use a spdt switch instead of a pot, just a a resistor to one pole, say a 50K. you can even wire multiple switches that was to get 25%, 50% and 75% dimming etc. My next dimming setup will be three switches wired to do 0, 25, 50, 75

just to be different lol


Budzbuddha said:
Getting down to the “ wire “ .... forgot to go buy a 3 prong plug for driver and quick disconnects for the pony tail I made .

Added the 6500k ( to fire ) not the UV bulbs for obvious reasons , just to check daisy chain.
Shorty cable supplied just clears board , so I will use that for now , until I mod the other shorty with a bit more length to clean it up better. But it’s working fine.

Thinking of running the “ switch “ with this one .... a toggle for dimmer leads “ open “ for max power and with dimmer. Looking for a nice little project box for the dimmer pot and toggle .

Finishing up some flowers at week 10 this week , so the timing is good to get this up after clean out and new starts.

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Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
CoB_nUt said:
Nicely done. Thank you for the idea.
Click to expand...
Before legos there were erector sets ... it’s like being a kid again .... building shit.


I would almost bet HLG will come out with a modular build for those that like to build basic rigs and have expansion capacity. Those QB 96 with heatsink remind me of those AutoCobs , heatsink is pretapped on sides , so a simple hanger plate or angle rail could pretty much build itself.

Waiting to see if they will offer a FRAMED 4 or 6 QB96 ready to hang light system ,
now that would be something ....

( 6 QB 96 on 3 320watt drivers - EPIC :blsmoke: )
Tripower with dim ... hell you would be able to run sets of 2 independent or full ( like in an open space ) ....... sorry thinking out loud.

If I had the space for such a thing , I would jump on that grenade.




 
D

Dave455

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
Before legos there were erector sets ... it’s like being a kid again .... building shit.


I would almost bet HLG will come out with a modular build for those that like to build basic rigs and have expansion capacity. Those QB 96 with heatsink remind me of those AutoCobs , heatsink is pretapped on sides , so a simple hanger plate or angle rail could pretty much build itself.

Waiting to see if they will offer a FRAMED 4 or 6 QB96 ready to hang light system ,
now that would be something ....

( 6 QB 96 on 3 320watt drivers - EPIC :blsmoke: )
Tripower with dim ... hell you would be able to run sets of 2 independent or full ( like in an open space ) ....... sorry thinking out loud.

If I had the space for such a thing , I would jump on that grenade.
Rapidled canopy frames ?


Click to expand...
 
J

Jqwerty1

Well-Known Member
Anyone tested the output side on HLG series drivers? I just hooked up a 80W and im not too impressed. Doesnt look half as bright as the 120s that they call a 135W kit and its 150 at the wall. Id bet a 120 is getting about 130 at the board and the 80 is getting less than 80. a bit misleading to call the 80w a 100W kit. Thats big exaggeration of how much extra youre going to get off that A type driver. GL is a solid company though, my third order and its been fast each time, extra parts and very very well packed. i wish GL have those new qb86s. I think the 120 is a better driver and the gains you get off the lower wattage is almost negated by the inefficiency of the drivers. My advice if youre deciding between the 135 and 100 kits, get the 120/135 and expand your grow space. im on my 7th crop under QB and very happy. doing my first V2 crop this month
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
My HLG-80H-54a pulls 117 watts from the wall so my board is getting about 107 watts. I have 2 and they both pull the same. Did you turn the dimmer all the way up?

Jqwerty1 said:
Anyone tested the output side on HLG series drivers? I just hooked up a 80W and im not too impressed. Doesnt look half as bright as the 120s that they call a 135W kit and its 150 at the wall. Id bet a 120 is getting about 130 at the board and the 80 is getting less than 80. a bit misleading to call the 80w a 100W kit. Thats big exaggeration of how much extra youre going to get off that A type driver. GL is a solid company though, my third order and its been fast each time, extra parts and very very well packed. i wish GL have those new qb86s. I think the 120 is a better driver and the gains you get off the lower wattage is almost negated by the inefficiency of the drivers. My advice if youre deciding between the 135 and 100 kits, get the 120/135 and expand your grow space. im on my 7th crop under QB and very happy. doing my first V2 crop this month
Click to expand...
 
HydroFood

HydroFood

Active Member
robincnn said:
180 Watts at wall
HLG-120H-C1400A
2x Quantum Boards
1/16th Aluminum L channel
Total under $300

Heatsink USA profile used here needs some airflow. Fins too close and not ideal for complete passive.
Reaches 60C board temps at full power Ta 20C.
With airflow in tent down to 40C-45C
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Regarding fin spacing. What would you consider a good ball park range or at least a minimum fin spacing for complete passive?

I purchased a couple dozen 1’ sinks from China on eBay for almost a buck a piece free shipping. 24 sinks for $30. Thought it was a killer deal for strip builds but the fins are very tightly spaced.
Here’s pics of them.
Chinese left / HeatsinkUSA right
Dimensions: 300mm*25mm*12mm
I’m trying to figure out how to incorporate these into future builds, otherwise they are just collecting dust!
BTW, thanks for everything you have done and everything you contribute to this hobby!
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Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
HydroFood said:
Regarding fin spacing. What would you consider a good ball park range or at least a minimum fin spacing for complete passive?

I purchased a couple dozen 1’ sinks from China on eBay for almost a buck a piece free shipping. 24 sinks for $30. Thought it was a killer deal for strip builds but the fins are very tightly spaced.
Here’s pics of them.
Chinese left / HeatsinkUSA right
Dimensions: 300mm*25mm*12mm
I’m trying to figure out how to incorporate these into future builds, otherwise they are just collecting dust!
BTW, thanks for everything you have done and everything you contribute to this hobby!
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Looks ready for strips ....
 
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