Hps

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Yes and yes! But why not using a Quantumboard 135w kit from Horticulture Lighting Group?
Its cheap, lasts 10 times longer and produce a lot more usable light. You can expect up to 200g each run; with automatics even more!
With a 150w MH you would end up with 100-130g in the best case and you would need a new bulb every 1000h.
A QBv2-kit can be used for many many years!
After ~50k hours you would still see 80-90% of its initial output!!!
No reason to use inefficient 150w mh bulbs these days.
CMH maybe but even CMH results would not be comparable to QB results.
Do yourself a favor and read at least one of the many QB grow logs here. I'm pretty sure you'll change your mind pretty quick!
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
I agree HPS & MH are going the way of the Dodo.
But I'm liking CMH
Agree, CMH has some benefits over HPS and I have seen some nice results. Also potency wise..
But with LED you can easily mimic CMH spectrum and still get better efficiency. And to increase potency UVB works even better than CMH. Far better than HPS but they lack in efficiency. 1,9μMol/J is not enough these days IMO when you see up to 2,7 from LED.
 

skinitti666

Well-Known Member
Yes and yes! But why not using a Quantumboard 135w kit from Horticulture Lighting Group?
Its cheap, lasts 10 times longer and produce a lot more usable light. You can expect up to 200g each run; with automatics even more!
With a 150w MH you would end up with 100-130g in the best case and you would need a new bulb every 1000h.
A QBv2-kit can be used for many many years!
After ~50k hours you would still see 80-90% of its initial output!!!
No reason to use inefficient 150w mh bulbs these days.
CMH maybe but even CMH results would not be comparable to QB results.
Do yourself a favor and read at least one of the many QB grow logs here. I'm pretty sure you'll change your mind pretty quick!
Yes and yes! But why not using a Quantumboard 135w kit from Horticulture Lighting Group?
Its cheap, lasts 10 times longer and produce a lot more usable light. You can expect up to 200g each run; with automatics even more!
With a 150w MH you would end up with 100-130g in the best case and you would need a new bulb every 1000h.
A QBv2-kit can be used for many many years!
After ~50k hours you would still see 80-90% of its initial output!!!
No reason to use inefficient 150w mh bulbs these days.
CMH maybe but even CMH results would not be comparable to QB results.
Do yourself a favor and read at least one of the many QB grow logs here. I'm pretty sure you'll change your mind pretty quick!
Will this do
 

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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Will this do

No, please... don't use such am4zon blurples! They are outdated and based on crappy Epistar diodes even if they mention Bridgelux or Cree. Thats all fake! You will lose the first few diodes within a year and there lumen/PAR rating is completely nonsense. You need at least to know how much PPF a light will deliver; μMol/J is also okay cuz you can multiply it yourself with the watts used and get PPF. A OBv2 has 2,7μMol/J and is rated with 140w thats ~375μMol/s PPF. Above a usually used 2x 2' area thats 900μMol/s/m² PPFD incl. wall loss.
The light you posted above would deliver half as much PPFD but produce a lot more heat. Indeed these lights are usually between 1,3 and 1,8μMol/J. CMH is more efficient than that! Its also no 600w light, its ~210w or so. You need 3 or 4 of them for a 4x 4' area.
Do yourself a favor and look for a Quantumboard kit or visit Timber growlights to get a top notch COB fixture!
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
If you have rudimentary skills your can build your own light using Samsung Q-series or H-influx Strips. With strips you can make your own fixture. Click my signature the 400w strip, COB, UVB and far-red fixture is made from simple alli channels and a few bolts. There are a good few how-to's here in the LED section.. It's pretty easy!
 

skinitti666

Well-Known Member
No, please... don't use such am4zon blurples! They are outdated and based on crappy Epistar diodes even if they mention Bridgelux or Cree. Thats all fake! You will lose the first few diodes within a year and there lumen/PAR rating is completely nonsense. You need at least to know how much PPF a light will deliver; μMol/J is also okay cuz you can multiply it yourself with the watts used and get PPF. A OBv2 has 2,7μMol/J and is rated with 140w thats ~375μMol/s PPF. Above a usually used 2x 2' area thats 900μMol/s/m² PPFD incl. wall loss.
The light you posted above would deliver half as much PPFD but produce a lot more heat. Indeed these lights are usually between 1,3 and 1,8μMol/J. CMH is more efficient than that! Its also no 600w light, its ~210w or so. You need 3 or 4 of them for a 4x 4' area.
Do yourself a favor and look for a Quantumboard kit or visit Timber growlights to get a top notch COB fixture!
What's ppf you have to explain all of these terms to me I'm lost plus my grow tent isn't that big only big enough for 4 plants and what's a good seed bank I ordered 4 S.A.D. seeds from pev grow
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
What's ppf you have to explain all of these terms to me I'm lost plus my grow tent isn't that big only big enough for 4 plants and what's a good seed bank I ordered 4 S.A.D. seeds from pev grow
PPF means the total photon flux of the fixture. Plant light is no longer measured in lux/lumens the "new" term is μMol/s(PPF) or μMol/s/m²(PPFD or photon flux density). PPF tells you how much photons(inside the PAR range) a light can produce and PPFD tells you how much photons are "raining" on a certain area.

Enter "the math behind" into the search engine and read the thread carefully. There are also wiki's in several languages available and also youtube has a few good videos about that topic. Doc Hernandez for instance..
And if you're interested in building your own LED lights search for "growmau5" he has a few really useful videos about the basics on YT.
 
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