2 lower power lights vs 1 higher power

2 300s vs 1 600

  • Add 300 true white to mix with existing 300 blurple

    Votes: 5 50.0%
  • Replace existing 300 blurple with 600 true white

    Votes: 5 50.0%

  • Total voters
    10

VillageAnt

Well-Known Member
Ya my first and only indoor grow (on second now) I started out with 1 then bought 2, then got the 3rd right before flower. With 2 plants flowering I got 6 ounces dried. 4 on one plant and 2 on the other. I attached pics of first grow buds were solid as hell, was pretty stoked. that was bagseeds I'm on real genetics now.
Nice nugs!!! Just so you know, if you don't mind wiring the boards yourself, it's very simple, no soldering, you can buy four QB132s for $100 and run them with the LRS-350-36 ($30), or four QB120s for $100 and run them with the HLG-240h-24A ($60). Thats the equivalent of four HLG 65s for $150-$180 once you add wiring.
 

Nutzach91

Well-Known Member
Nice nugs!!! Just so you know, if you don't mind wiring the boards yourself, it's very simple, no soldering, you can buy four QB132s for $100 and run them with the LRS-350-36 ($30), or four QB120s for $100 and run them with the HLG-240h-24A ($60). Thats the equivalent of four HLG 65s for $150-$180 once you add wiring.
Ya I seen that now with the 4 QB120's would I need a heatsinks. I'm not the best with electronics but I think I could handle it( just watch a video) or I was looking at the Hlg 135 kit on Hlg's website. it's like $180 but you have to put it together. it comes with everything I would need. All I know is Hlg is some real high quality stuff.
 

VillageAnt

Well-Known Member
Ya I seen that now with the 4 QB120's would I need a heatsinks. I'm not the best with electronics but I think I could handle it( just watch a video) or I was looking at the Hlg 135 kit on Hlg's website. it's like $180 but you have to put it together. it comes with everything I would need. All I know is Hlg is some real high quality stuff.
No, you do not need heatsinks with either the QB120s nor the QB132s. The HLG 65 is a QB120.

You can get some 3/4 inch or one inch aluminum angle like this

https://www.gamut.com/c/raw-materials/aluminum-angles

Or just hang them independently. Wire them with 18 guage solid core wire between the driver and the boards, and just use a computer power cable for the other end of the driver. With those drivers I recommended, you would wire the boards in parallel, so each positive terminal on each board would be wired to the positive terminal on the driver, and the same with negative.

I prefer the QB132s because they come in 3500k and they have 12 more diodes per board than the QB120. Plus you can run them hotter at 75 watts each as opposed to 65 watts for the QB120.
 
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VillageAnt

Well-Known Member
What's the difference between the "LRS" and the "HLG" models? Seems the LRS's are cheaper than the HLG series?

Any 72v drivers?
The difference is that the LRS are much cheaper, but the HLG are dimmable and slightly more efficient.

Why would you need 72v drivers? I am guessing that you are thinking for some reason that three qb120s at 24v each need a 72v driver? Or two qb132s at 36 volts each equals 72v? That's not how it works. When wiring in parallel, for the qb120s, you need a driver with the model number ending in 24, and for the qb132s, which are 36v, you need a driver ending in 36. You don't add the voltages together for multiple boards unless you are using constant current drivers, which I will explain in a minute.

The qb120s are rated at around 60 watts each. So, for one board you would need the hlg-60h-24a. The "60" is the wattage. Two boards would need the hlg-120h-24a, the "120" is the wattage. Three boards (180 watts) would need the HLG-185H-24A, or you could get away with the LRS-200-36 because 200 watts is not much higher that 180. Four boards would need the hlg-240h-24a.

The "a" means that driver has a dimming pot installed. If there is a "b" instead, that means there are extra wires on it for you to install your own dimming pot. The reason someone might want the b version, is so they could install their own dimming pot on long wires to make it more convenient to dim the lights from a distance. With the a version, you have to have the driver in your hand to dim it, so that might be inconvenient to get to.

The qb132s are 36v and rated at 75 watts. So, one board would need the hlg-75h-36a, or lrs-75-36. Two boards would need the lrs-150-36 or hlg-150h-36a. It doesn't have to be perfect. For four qb132s at 75 watts each, that adds up to 300 watts. But, since it's cheaper, I use the lrs-350-36 because they don't make a 300 watt version.

I do know that some people run four qb120s with the LRS-350-24, even though four qb120s add up to only 240 watts, but I think that runs them a little too hot. A better fit for that driver would be to run five or six qb120s. Five qb120s at 60 watts each equals 300 watts, six would add up to 360 watts, so the 350 watt driver would be a good match.

These are all examples of drivers that you would wire in parallel, or constant voltage drivers. Note that with constant voltage drivers, the model number has the number of volts at the end, like LRS-350-24. The voltage of the driver must match the voltage of the board.

With constant current drivers, you would wire in series instead of parallel. With constant current drivers, the amperage is at the end of the model number, not the volts, such as HLG-240H-C2100A (the "C" means "constant current"). You would try to match the amperage with the amperage of the board. And with constant current drivers, they don't have a fixed voltage, they have a fixed amperage, not voltage. Instead, they have a voltage RANGE that the total number of volts of the boards added up must fall into.

For example, the qb132 is 36 volts and are rated at 2000 amps. So, if I want to wire 4 of them in series to a constant current driver, I would look at the HLG-320H-C2100A because 2100 is close to the qb132's rated 2000 amps. The voltage range on the data sheet for that driver is 76v-162v. Four qb132s at 36v each adds up to 144v, which falls within 76v-162v, so that would work. Note that three qb132s (108v total) would also work, but 320 watts would be a little too much for three boards because they are rated at 75 watts each for a total of 225 watts. Four boards, though, at 75 watts each would be 300 watts, so it is a good fit because that is closer to 320 watts.

It is ok to push these boards over their rated wattage. Ledgardener did a torture test with the qb288 which is rated at 135 watts. He pushed 600 watts into it and it was running fine...hot, but fine. When he got around 700 watts it burned up. So, these boards can take 4 times their rated wattage without burning up. It's just that the hotter you run them, the less efficient they are.

The qb120s are rated at 2800 amps. It is hard to find a matching driver for 2800 amps. The hlg series doesn't go that high in amperage until the 320 watt model (HLG-320H-C2800A) and at 60 watts each, you would need five qb120s to get in that wattage range.

If you wanted to power two of them at 120 watts, the HLG-120H-C1400 is as high as the 120 watt driver goes at 1400 amps. So if you ran two boards with it, you would not be getting max power use out of them. That is why I like to wire in parallel with constant voltage drivers instead. It is much easier to find a good match. Plus the affordable LRS series drivers are only constant voltage.
 
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ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
The difference is that the LRS are much cheaper, but the HLG are dimmable and slightly more efficient.

Why would you need 72v drivers? I am guessing that you are thinking for some reason that three qb120s at 24v each need a 72v driver? Or two qb132s at 36 volts each equals 72v? That's not how it works. When wiring in parallel, for the qb120s, you need a driver with the model number ending in 24, and for the qb132s, which are 36v, you need a driver ending in 36. You don't add the voltages together for multiple boards unless you are using constant current drivers, which I will explain in a minute.

The qb120s are rated at around 60 watts each. So, for one board you would need the hlg-60h-24a. The "60" is the wattage. Two boards would need the hlg-120h-24a, the "120" is the wattage. Three boards (180 watts) would need the HLG-185H-24A, or you could get away with the LRS-200-36 because 200 watts is not much higher that 180. Four boards would need the hlg-240h-24a.

The "a" means that driver has a dimming pot installed. If there is a "b" instead, that means there are extra wires on it for you to install your own dimming pot. The reason someone might want the b version, is so they could install their own dimming pot on long wires to make it more convenient to dim the lights from a distance. With the a version, you have to have the driver in your hand to dim it, so that might be inconvenient to get to.

The qb132s are 36v and rated at 75 watts. So, one board would need the hlg-75h-36a, or lrs-75-36. Two boards would need the lrs-150-36 or hlg-150h-36a. It doesn't have to be perfect. For four qb132s at 75 watts each, that adds up to 300 watts. But, since it's cheaper, I use the lrs-350-36 because they don't make a 300 watt version.

I do know that some people run four qb120s with the LRS-350-24, even though four qb120s add up to only 240 watts, but I think that runs them a little too hot. A better fit for that driver would be to run five or six qb120s. Five qb120s at 60 watts each equals 300 watts, six would add up to 360 watts, so the 350 watt driver would be a good match.

These are all examples of drivers that you would wire in parallel, or constant voltage drivers. Note that with constant voltage drivers, the model number has the number of volts at the end, like LRS-350-24. The voltage of the driver must match the voltage of the board.

With constant current drivers, you would wire in series instead of parallel. With constant current drivers, the amperage is at the end of the model number, not the volts, such as HLG-240H-C2100A (the "C" means "constant current"). You would try to match the amperage with the amperage of the board. And with constant current drivers, they don't have a fixed voltage, they have a fixed amperage, not voltage. Instead, they have a voltage RANGE that the total number of volts of the boards added up must fall into.

For example, the qb132 is 36 volts and are rated at 2000 amps. So, if I want to wire 4 of them in series to a constant current driver, I would look at the HLG-320H-C2100A because 2100 is close to the qb132's rated 2000 amps. The voltage range on the data sheet for that driver is 76v-162v. Four qb132s at 36v each adds up to 144v, which falls within 76v-162v, so that would work. Note that three qb132s (108v total) would also work, but 320 watts would be a little too much for three boards because they are rated at 75 watts each for a total of 225 watts. Four boards, though, at 75 watts each would be 300 watts, so it is a good fit because that is closer to 320 watts.

It is ok to push these boards over their rated wattage. Ledgardener did a torture test with the qb288 which is rated at 135 watts. He pushed 600 watts into it and it was running fine...hot, but fine. When he got around 700 watts it burned up. So, these boards can take 4 times their rated wattage without burning up. It's just that the hotter you run them, the less efficient they are.

The qb120s are rated at 2800 amps. It is hard to find a matching driver for 2800 amps. The hlg series doesn't go that high in amperage until the 320 watt model (HLG-320H-C2800A) and at 60 watts each, you would need five qb120s to get in that wattage range.

If you wanted to power two of them at 120 watts, the HLG-120H-C1400 is as high as the 120 watt driver goes at 1400 amps. So if you ran two boards with it, you would not be getting max power use out of them. That is why I like to wire in parallel with constant voltage drivers instead. It is much easier to find a good match. Plus the affordable LRS series drivers are only constant voltage.
What a champ, that's quite the effort, thanks. I'm familiar with HLG drivers and different types of electrical wiring, and recently came upon an idea to rebuild some of my E27 LEDs into mini-QB racks..

Seems the mini-QBs are wired in 3 sets of 12 series for a total voltage of ~72v...

Look here:...
https://www.rollitup.org/p/14640836/
 

VillageAnt

Well-Known Member
What a champ, that's quite the effort, thanks. I'm familiar with HLG drivers and different types of electrical wiring, and recently came upon an idea to rebuild some of my E27 LEDs into mini-QB racks..

Seems the mini-QBs are wired in 3 sets of 12 series for a total voltage of ~72v...

Look here:...
https://www.rollitup.org/p/14640836/
That was for the op mainly, can always count on impoliteness on riu though. Good luck.
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
That was for the op mainly, can always count on impoliteness on riu though. Good luck.
I was trying to be appreciative, sorry if I offended you. Ive been looking for 72v options for awhile and when I saw the effort in your post I thought you might be the guy to help..
 
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what about OP's main question:

which is better?

A 2x 300w
B 1x 600w

I ended up going OPTION C thanks to these guys, which is quantum boards - I know that doesn't answer the original question for you though. Generalizing, the quantum boards are around twice as efficient as a blurple, so I went with 2x HLG 65's (130 at the wall) for the equivalent of 2 x 300w amazon shit light (around 230-250 at the wall or 60w/sqft).

They're way cooler temp wise as well, and not wasting energy on active cooling.

If anyone has experience for the sake of other people with the same original question, two of the same brand/line of lights: prefer 2x300 or 1x600? I assume 1 light would have more concentrated footprint, 2x would have larger effective area?
 
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