Its alive........
Wow. This thing is as bright as the sun. I need to give a huge shout out to @Randomblame for all the help. And for showing me the H inFlux_L06 strips. Awesome sauce man. I greatly appreciate you man.
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We are talking about less than 10 watts of heat. 2mm is enough and when you add a 2nd u-channel to increase the surface area the base gets 4mm thick in the middle. I've done a few heatsinks that way and they work great. Thats a 600x 350x 2mm alu plate with 8 small 10x 20x 10mm u-channels on its backside and its the base for a 150w strip/COB light.(see signature for more pics). Even at 150w and with drivers mounted on the backside the fixture stays below 50°C.Have you checked the case temp of the cobs? Basicly im irying to figure out how thick i need my c-channels for 15-20 w cobs and i feel somewhat unsure if 2 mm is enough to pull the heat out of the cob to be dissipated by the heat sink.
That build turned out very cool there whyte. Damn!
Appreciate it. I like how it turned out too. I think maybe (4) of the 3ks instead of 3 wouldnt been nice. But the 4ks flower so good for my setup. I'm stoked to flower a couple fems from cannaventure under it here super soon. Gonna flip in like 10 days. Full run under it. See how.it does. With stretch and all.That build turned out very cool there whyte. Damn!
Really like the color mix. That is the sort of mix I've been considering.
You don't need to cut slots. Tubing works as well or better than channel (more heatsink), assuming you have some ambient airflow hitting your fixture. I even tried tilting my light slightly so it pulls air in the low side of the tubing and pushes it out the top just from natural convection.Yup I didnt have enough. And neither lowes or home depot had any U channel wide enough. They didnt have any 1" wide u channel. And the H inFlux_L06 are wider than 3/4 channel that they had in stock. I'll use 3/4 channel on the rebuild of the f562b light.
Edit: I will put slots in the top side of the square tubing. To let heat escape so it doesnt have to travel the length of the tube before it escapes.
I'm running them under typ current. Theres no need for a heatsink at all really. But I'm using the U channel for something to just mount the strips too. For rigidity. The first frame I built is just way to heavy and a pain in the ass to adjust when needed. I use paint cans and milk crates to raise n lower plants. But I run sativas every once in awhile. And the stretch on them is unreal. So I'm cutting down on about 35lbs give or take. For ease of use and adjustability. And the strips mounted on tubing with no slots run hotter than strips on u channel with smaller u channel mounted on inside when I push the strips hard. According to a thermocouple mounted right up against the led. That was the reason for the slots.You don't need to cut slots. Tubing works as well or better than channel (more heatsink), assuming you have some ambient airflow hitting your fixture. I even tried tilting my light slightly so it pulls air in the low side of the tubing and pushes it out the top just from natural convection.
Tubing is also far more rigid and requires far less support. I will always choose tubing over channel in my lights. I know it sounds like it would be worse but I've tried both and see no difference. My lights are cool to the touch either way. I suppose some people have different environmental variables and will undoubtedly get different results
The sammy strips are hard to pass up. They put out the light. And are super efficient. I'm now running (12) strips at 1111mA and the sunboard 96 diode strips at 1666mA.I was looking at this very same tech recently about to invest in some leds. I’m so impressed! That panel is the balls and the shaft!!