Please help

Galwaith

Galwaith

Member
Drgreebthumb628 said:
With distilled water do you know how much ph down you would use?. When I used gh ph down I used 3 to 4 ml which got my ph from 6.5-6.7 to 5.5... 1 tablespoon seems like overkill but you did say your ph was higher than mine
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I am running well water that is around 8.5...

Don't forget everything is 10x the higher you go.. so.. you would need less ph down at 7 than you would at 8.5, ie: you might only need 1 teaspoon vs 8.5 needing 4. =)

Same thing applies in the hurricane scale and G forces, etc etc... =)
 
Galwaith

Galwaith

Member
Blitz35 said:
If your ph swung up that much, it can be due to the fact that your source of water has a high alkalinity, which is way more important to know than the ph of it! In which case, it makes no difference how you ph it down, it won't stay there no matter what..the alkalinity will bring it back to 7. The only other way would be if you have way too much nitrogen and or sulfur, which if the plant takes up enough of it, and more than other elements, then that as well would cause the ph to go up fast.
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Bam!!! exactly...

The PH will fluctuate... you're just trying to keep it low enough so/until it "sucks in" enough of the resevoir fast enough before the PH goes back up. My plants go through a 5 gallon bucket in 3 days. Like I fill it on day one.. day two, morning of day 3 it's empty. In that period you may see a temperature shift dramatic enough to make the PH swing so that the plant will lock out key nutes. However, the PH WILL go back down... and the plant will resume sucking nutes as normal. I have always been amazed at how fast these guys can suck it down.
 
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Drgreebthumb628

Member
So AN being a ph perfect line is bullshit?. I want to thank everybody who has chimed in to help gives me a good outlook. The whole project is very fun but holy shit it can be frustrating
 
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Drgreebthumb628

Member
Blitz35 said:
If your ph swung up that much, it can be due to the fact that your source of water has a high alkalinity, which is way more important to know than the ph of it! In which case, it makes no difference how you ph it down, it won't stay there no matter what..the alkalinity will bring it back to 7. The only other way would be if you have way too much nitrogen and or sulfur, which if the plant takes up enough of it, and more than other elements, then that as well would cause the ph to go up fast.
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Bloom plant had a sulfur def. I added Epsom and improved. I was getting yellow veins in the leaves which got better after adding a few pinches of Epsom salt
 
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Drgreebthumb628

Member
Getting distilled water right now to also try and avoid the ph swings. I believe the drastic cold temp changes is/was playing a huge role in
It. The last grow I had the opposite prob I had high temps and battled a long but successful root rot battle only to have my ladies drown when the finish line was near
 
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Drgreebthumb628

Member
Just to be clear should I PH the water first than add nutes. Or add nutes to water than PH. To my understanding I read the nutes affect the PH
 
Galwaith

Galwaith

Member
Drgreebthumb628 said:
Just to be clear should I PH the water first than add nutes. Or add nutes to water than PH. To my understanding I read the nutes affect the PH
Click to expand...

Yes, PH the water first, the nutes won't effect it enough to make a difference. It's also kind of why you lower the PH so much, so that it over-rides the nutes.

Generally you don't want to adjust PH AFTER you add you nutes, I forget the reason why exactly but I think it has to do with nutrient lock out. I just never have done it so I don't know.

The way I have my stuff set up, it's all just automatic, I don't even worry about the PH, like I said I test once a year and it's always been the same since I moved here 5 years ago.
 
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Galwaith

Galwaith

Member
Ohhhh!!! OH OH OH!!!!

DO NOT USE DISTILLED WATER!!! Man I almost forgot........

The PH adjuster needs something to BIND too... This is part of the reason my well water works so great, it's LOADED with minerals and other stuff.... SO the PH adjuster binds to that and allows the PH to be a bit more stable.

With distilled water, there is literally NOTHING to bind too so the PH will fluctuate a LOT more and a lot more dramatically.

If you are on a well, GREAT! Use your well water.....

If you're on city water, thats NOT so great, however, you can still get by. Just test as normal and then come back here and tell me what the PH level is. =)

With Municipal and City water there is many times large amounts of chlorine and flouride that can do damage to your plants... This is easy enough to fix by putting the tap water in a bucket with a pump and allowing the water to circulate for 12 hours at least. This will allow the chlorine and flouride to dissolve.

Chlorine is ok in the seedling stages the seedlings(from what I have been told) use chlorine to fight off certain bacteria etc etc.. It's also a micronutrient, but after seedling you tend not to want it.
 
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Old Thcool

Old Thcool

Well-Known Member
Not sure where this info is coming from? PH is potential of hydrogen, you will typically lower ph by adding nutrients to water. It doesn’t hurt to check your Ph before you add nutrients but you should definitely check after adding. You will want to correct Ph at this stage. How can you possibly correct for ph before you add nutrients? Some people know generally how much correction they will need and add it prior to the nutrients but ultimately it will need correcting anyway so....?
 
70's natureboy

70's natureboy

Well-Known Member
Galwaith

Galwaith

Member
PH will fluctuate.. Adding nutes and then PH afterwards will cause the "PH chasing" that 70's Nature Boy is talking about. Once I set the PH, thats it. I don't even look at it...

The plants will take in the nutrients from a perfectly set PH and throw the PH out of whack within an hour so that you're constantly chasing for perfect PH after that.

I don't even test for PH, again, except for once a year because it is stable at the tap from my well.

Plants are not constantly feeding, they take advantage of nutrients when the PH comes within range to make the nutrient available to the plant to use. It’s a good idea to let the pH cover a range instead of always adjusting to the exact same pH number.

The thing to remember with pH is that you don’t need to be exact. What you do need to be is consistent in keeping the pH from creeping too high or too low in your plant root zone.

As long as you stick within the recommended pH ranges, you will prevent the majority of all nutrient problems caused by too-high or too-low pH.

Of course I always run into the one or two lone exceptions like above that have learned to do it their own way or maybe I've learned to do it my own way and it works for me that way the best. It's definitely not rocket surgery and there is definitely no hard set rules.
 
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70's natureboy

70's natureboy

Well-Known Member
I wonder where all the AN users are to give advice on what you really need. We have lots of GH users and Dynagro users but no AN users?
 
Bernie420

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
[QUOTE="Galwaith, post: 14670085, member: 1007548"]Yes, PH the water first, the nutes won't effect it enough to make a difference. It's also kind of why you lower the PH so much, so that it over-rides the nutes.

Generally you don't want to adjust PH AFTER you add you nutes, I forget the reason why exactly but I think it has to do with nutrient lock out. I just never have done it so I don't know.

The way I have my stuff set up, it's all just automatic, I don't even worry about the PH, like I said I test once a year and it's always been the same since I moved here 5 years ago.[/QUOTE]


We talked about it and you have been banned for one year from posting advice on the internet.

BANNED ONE YEAR!!!!!!!
 
Bernie420

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
OP what are you growing in? Do you have a ph meter, ph drops, a ppm meter??

List all the products you have in one list that your using?
Are you in flower? what week? what lights?

You plants look fine from the pics btw but it looks like your using too many products.


These AN nutes has a feed chart right have you referred to the feed chart on what to add and when??
 
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Beachwalker

Well-Known Member
Galwaith said:
, the nutes won't effect it enough to make a difference. It's also kind of why you lower the PH so much, so that it over-rides the nutes.

Generally you don't want to adjust PH AFTER you add you nutes, I forget the reason why exactly but I think it has to do with nutrient lock out. I just never have done it so I don't know.

The way I have my stuff set up, it's all just automatic, I don't even worry about the PH, like I said I test once a year and it's always been the same since I moved here 5 years ago.
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^ And this is from a newb yelling at people in another thread about giving bad advice, and he's giving advice like this LMAO!

Drgreebthumb628 said:
Just to be clear should I PH the water first than add nutes. Or add nutes to water than PH. To my understanding I read the nutes affect the PH
Click to expand...
You add your nutrients and then you adjust the pH last. Don't use distilled water, tap water is fine, get a PPM meter so you'll know what it comes out the faucet at, and let it sit for 24 hours and you should be fine, check ppm & let us know what it is
 
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Drgreebthumb628

Member
Bernie420 said:
OP what are you growing in? Do you have a ph meter, ph drops, a ppm meter??

List all the products you have in one list that your using?
Are you in flower? what week? what lights?

You plants look fine from the pics btw but it looks like your using too many products.


These AN nutes has a feed chart right have you referred to the feed chart on what to add and when??
Click to expand...
Yea I just bought another ph meter as my last one broke. I also use a ppm meter.
1 plant is in rapid rooter dwc with hydroton that is the blue dream which is in week 2 of 12/12 transition, the other
plant that is in flower is CKS amnesia haze in a gh waterfarm drip system and as of 1/5 it is in the beginning of week 4 of flowering as it is a auto.
Grown in a 4x4 gorilla with a solistek 315 cmh just switched from the 4200k to the 3200k bulb.
Products although I have cut back and kept a closer on on PH.
Nutes I have so the AN connoisseur line a and b grow and bloom.
Bud factor x
Nirvana
Bud candy
Bud ignighter
Big bud
Sensizyme (just got cannazyme instead)
AN calmag
B52 (stopped using as of 3 days ago and started using superthrive instead)
Rhino skin

Amnesia haze ppm is 895
Blue dream ppm is 511

I put 1/2 to less of the additives following the AN chart to a T on what the bottles say on when to use them and have been giving half strength nutes. Since the plants clawed and have dead spots I backed way up and started on my bloom to just use A and B, bud factor x, bud candy, nirvana, rhino, and cannazyme..

Question I have is should I also do a run of flawless finish or fox farm sledge hammer for several hours, or a day if I continue to have problems with ph/ nute problems? They do in a way look better but also show new signs of ph fluctuations as there are the yellowish stripes on some leaves only since trying to adjust ph

For the record according to Jorge Cervantes grow bible you stabilize the ph prior to adding nutes.
 
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