help me identify the defiency

[Renfro]

Even 10k of them won’t wipe it out, the mite reproduce to fast, n ladybugs prefer aphids

OP Sorry about the mites , fight hard,
When you think you won, keep at it for another month , then start a preventative treatment.

Getting rid of them should be top priority, or shutting down , n cleaning everything 10 times , mites are no joke.

I would welcome in thrips n others compared to mites .

Yeah only thing worse than mites IME, especially broad / russet mites, is fucking aphids. Imidacloprid is the only thing I have found that even slows them down. That's a definite start from scratch after burning the house down level plague.

 

[myke]

ya thought so,to the OP... Burn everything, start again in a few months.

 

[Chris Edward]

well i’ve sprayed with mitey wash twice, and
used those doctor doom foggers twice. i’m not getting a whole let of webs if any webbing really, but i can see whole undersides of leaves covered in little golden eggs. i suppose i’ll have to try the methods listed above but holy fuck how resilient are these things? should i be spraying the soil as well??

@cincity420,
It sounds like you have thrips, not mites.
If you can see the eggs.

Mites and thrips are pretty resilient... You have to keep at it.

You can add a layer of diatomaceous earth to the top of the soil, this will help, but won't stop them.
The problem is the eggs don't all hatch at once, they hatch in waves, so you have to keep spraying every week for weeks on end and that's just to keep them at bay so they don't infest your flowers.
But they will be back in your next grow...

The thing about using chemicals, the bugs eventually get used to them and they become useless, so you have to use stuff that is stronger.

If you use predatory mites or green lacewings, the benefits there is the pests can't become immune to something that just rips them apart and eats them.
But once a good portion of the pests are gone, the beneficial insects will begin to die off and unless you can supply the beneficial insect with a supplementary diet and even possible rearing in isolated cages, then you will keep having to buy them and that gets expensive.

One of the downsides to rearing your own green lacewings is that they tend to prefer their prepared diet after a while, so the transition to pest can be a little challenging.

And as far as predatory mites, they cost a fortune, and are usually genetically modified so ensure they cannot breed, because the companies that sell them want to ensure you keep buying more!

 

[Chris Edward]

Nuke Em

https://www.flyingskull.net/NukeEm.html

@xtsho,

The Nuke Em stuff is funny.

Active Ingredients By Weight
Citric Acid 0.05%
Inert Ingredients
Water, Yeast (Enzymes), Potassium Salts of Fatty Acids,
Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Total: 100.00%

What is listed as it's "inactive ingredients" (yeast enzymes) are actually the facilitator to why the citric acid is able to work.
The yeast enzymes (most likely protease, amylase, and lipase) cause the chitin to break down a little which causes the insect to molt prematurely and then the citric acid burns the shit out of them!!!

By the way "potassium salts of fatty acids" if fancy talk for potassium based soap (Dr. Bronners).

The sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate are food-safe preservatives.

Just so you know...

In my opinion $26 for 8oz of this stuff seems a bit pricey for what it actually is.
There's no "magic" to it.

I mean a bottle of Dr. Bronners unscented soap (32oz), a bottle of Now Foods Super Enzymes (180 tablets), and some citric acid (1 pound), would cost you like $43.42 off Amazon and this would be enough to make gallons of the "concentrate."

So the Nuke Em route is $3.25/oz. of "concentrate."
The DIY route is $0.14/oz. of "concentrate."

All of these things are pretty shelf stable by themselves, so they will only begin to degrade once they are mixed together with the water (which is probably between 4 to 6 ounces for the 8 ounce "concentrate"). The Super Enzyme has a shelf life of about 3 years, but the others are pretty much indefinite as long as the citric acid isn't allowed to get too hot.

Here are Amazon links if you want to buy the "raw" materials.
They ARE NOT affiliate links, so I don't benefit in any way if buy from them or not.

If anyone wants to know how I would mix this, just message me and I will tell you.

Soap
https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Bronners-Pure-Castile-Liquid-Soap/dp/B00DAI76TC/ref=sr_1_5_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1548731877&sr=8-5&keywords=dr.+bronners+unscented

Now Foods Super Enzymes
https://www.amazon.com/NOW-Super-Enzymes-180-Tablets/dp/B0013OXKJA/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1548731845&sr=8-4&keywords=now+foods+super+enzymes

Citric Acid
https://www.amazon.com/Milliard-Citric-Acid-Pound-VERIFIED/dp/B00EYFKKZC/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1548731899&sr=8-4&keywords=citric+acid

 

[Chris Edward]

Neem works as a preventative measure in veg. But once you have them neem just keeps them under control. And you only want to use neem in veg. I wouldn't spray that stuff on flowering plants of any age. And the key is to spray until it's dripping off and on both sides of the leaves. I might just be lucky but I haven't had mites in years since I started spraying weekly in veg. Years ago I had them so bad that I just could not get rid of them. I have since moved and now keep my grow area under quarantine. No outside plants are brought in under any circumstances, no outside visitors, I stay out of anyone else's grow room, and I keep everything clean.

@xtsho,
I completely agree...
On every point.

I just recently found out about putting diatomaceous earth in with the neem mixture to make the neem more effective. The diatomaceous earth cuts the thrips or mites and then this allows the neem to get into the thrips or mites and really mess them up...

I haven't had a chance to use it because they go dormant in the winter, which is nice, but as soon as it warms up, they will be back...

 

[xtsho]

@xtsho,

The Nuke Em stuff is funny.

Active Ingredients By Weight
Citric Acid 0.05%
Inert Ingredients
Water, Yeast (Enzymes), Potassium Salts of Fatty Acids,
Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Total: 100.00%

What is listed as it's "inactive ingredients" (yeast enzymes) are actually the facilitator to why the citric acid is able to work.
The yeast enzymes (most likely protease, amylase, and lipase) cause the chitin to break down a little which causes the insect to molt prematurely and then the citric acid burns the shit out of them!!!

By the way "potassium salts of fatty acids" if fancy talk for potassium based soap (Dr. Bronners).

The sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate are food-safe preservatives.

Just so you know...

In my opinion $26 for 8oz of this stuff seems a bit pricey for what it actually is.
There's no "magic" to it.

I mean a bottle of Dr. Bronners unscented soap (32oz), a bottle of Now Foods Super Enzymes (180 tablets), and some citric acid (1 pound), would cost you like $43.42 off Amazon and this would be enough to make gallons of the "concentrate."

So the Nuke Em route is $3.25/oz. of "concentrate."
The DIY route is $0.14/oz. of "concentrate."

All of these things are pretty shelf stable by themselves, so they will only begin to degrade once they are mixed together with the water (which is probably between 4 to 6 ounces for the 8 ounce "concentrate"). The Super Enzyme has a shelf life of about 3 years, but the others are pretty much indefinite as long as the citric acid isn't allowed to get too hot.

Here are Amazon links if you want to buy the "raw" materials.
They ARE NOT affiliate links, so I don't benefit in any way if buy from them or not.

If anyone wants to know how I would mix this, just message me and I will tell you.

Soap
https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Bronners-Pure-Castile-Liquid-Soap/dp/B00DAI76TC/ref=sr_1_5_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1548731877&sr=8-5&keywords=dr.+bronners+unscented

Now Foods Super Enzymes
https://www.amazon.com/NOW-Super-Enzymes-180-Tablets/dp/B0013OXKJA/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1548731845&sr=8-4&keywords=now+foods+super+enzymes

Citric Acid
https://www.amazon.com/Milliard-Citric-Acid-Pound-VERIFIED/dp/B00EYFKKZC/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1548731899&sr=8-4&keywords=citric+acid

I wouldn't buy it myself. I just know people that have used it and claim it works. I'm a do it yourself person and would just mix my own similar solution. But most people want an "Off the shelf" product and this particular one also looks much safer than many of the other products on the market.

 

[Chris Edward]

i’m also going to get rosemary oil as we speak

@cincity420,
What's idea behind the Rosemary oil?

Because to be honest, in my experience, plants don't do so well when you go spraying essential oils on them.

 

[Chris Edward]

I wouldn't buy it myself. I just know people that have used it and claim it works. I'm a do it yourself person and would just mix my own similar solution. But most people want an "Off the shelf" product and this particular one also looks much safer than many of the other products on the market.

I am DIY from scratch person myself.
I made my own potassium soap base, this way I always have it if I need it.

But to be honest, I swapped out to a really nice emulsifier and I have been using that ever since, so I haven't needed the potassium soap.
But you can make the potassium soap for really cheap, you just need some old cooking oil and some potassium hydroxide. If you use olive or coconut, then the soap is considered a "castile" soap, like Dr. Bronner's.
The rest of the process is like making "cake" soap, but because it is potassium based you end up with a paste, which is what the American settlers called "soft soap."
They used drip water through the ashes of their fires and this is how they got their potassium hydroxide.
It makes a great liquid soap.

 

[Chris Edward]

Nope. They don't eat eggs. They can help reduce the numbers but with an infestation this advanced there is no winning this battle conventionally. You would have to go nuclear on them with Avid, Forbid, Floramite, TetraSan.. Of all those Forbid has the least tolerance build up, some populations of mites have become immune to the Avid and Floramite as they were overused and not properly...

If you really had to save a strain thats in veg, hit it with Forbid 4F. Mix at 1.2mL per gallon. That is absolute max rate and the plants may get a little wierd with that exposure but will survive to produce cuttings in time. A normal rate for prevention of mites would be 1mL per gallon. If you are going to retreat, use another tool to prevent the population from building immunity. Avid with Tetra San 5 would be my go to at that point. Then the next treatment would be Floramite and then back to Forbid. Frankly if this is done in a dedicated veg and clones cut from that and put into clean flowering rooms, you shouldn't have mite issues unless you are carrying them into the flowering rooms on your person or the grow room is poorly sealed. Treating the vegetation around the outside of your home is a good idea.

@Renfro,
That's a slippery slope...
You start playing with Beyer-Monsanto, and Syngenta products you are sort of selling your soul to the devil.

I would rather move then expose myself to that crap...

If the infestation is "nuke" level bad, then I would probably first try leaving my grow area barren for a bit and do alternate weekly sprayings of a 10% bleach solution one weeks and a phosphoric acid solution the next to ensure all the eggs are gone or desiccated.

Then if that didn't work, I would move...

 

[Couch_Lock]

Destroy that crop. Wear gloves and apply a hydrogen peroxide/water solution to the tents interior........20% hydrogen peroxide, 80% water..........save the tent, lights and fans at least.
You are wasting time and money on that infestation.......sorry it happened. Next grow be as sterile as possible in all aspects of your grow, wear gloves, make sure all tent ducts are filtered.

 

[SPLFreak808]

well i’ve sprayed with mitey wash twice, and
used those doctor doom foggers twice. i’m not getting a whole let of webs if any webbing really, but i can see whole undersides of leaves covered in little golden eggs. i suppose i’ll have to try the methods listed above but holy fuck how resilient are these things? should i be spraying the soil as well??

The first time i had two spotted mites, I did exactly what you did, but hit them with mighty wash again 3 days later and that's all it took for me, Never seen another one for like 2 years.

Sometimes they aren't that simple though, some guys seem to have a very hard time with them even while rotating through miticides, seems to be from clones brought in from friends,dispensaries,grow shops ect.

 

[SPLFreak808]

Even 10k of them won’t wipe it out, the mite reproduce to fast, n ladybugs prefer aphids

OP Sorry about the mites , fight hard,
When you think you won, keep at it for another month , then start a preventative treatment.

Getting rid of them should be top priority, or shutting down , n cleaning everything 10 times , mites are no joke.

I would welcome in thrips n others compared to mites .

I would welcome anything over russets..

 

[cincity420]

hey guys no offense because i appreciate the replies, but cutting down my crop isn’t an option. this isn’t a 600w closet grow. i also own my house so i won’t be moving any time soon.

 

[cincity420]

so what i’ve gathered is to buy the f4f, spray the veg room down nice and good. that should just about wipe out the mites to keep them at a maintenance spray level which i’ll probably start doing every 5 days after i see they’re gone but not with f4f. i like the idea of making my own “Nuke Em” because i haven’t seen any mites in my flower room but i know they’re there because they just have to be. will the Nuke Em mixture be enough?

 

[cincity420]

also all the ladybugs died within like 4 hours from all the sprays i’ve already been using. good thing i didn’t spend much money on them.

 

[cincity420]

The first time i had two spotted mites, I did exactly what you did, but hit them with mighty wash again 3 days later and that's all it took for me, Never seen another one for like 2 years.

Sometimes they aren't that simple though, some guys seem to have a very hard time with them even while rotating through miticides, seems to be from clones brought in from friends,dispensaries,grow shops ect.

actually the only thing i did differently was buy coco potting mix from botanicare. other then that i haven’t brought in any outside clones

 

[cincity420]

@cincity420,
What's idea behind the Rosemary oil?

Because to be honest, in my experience, plants don't do so well when you go spraying essential oils on them.

eh something stupid i read online. i didn’t buy it. i started thinking about if mitey wash didn’t kill them off what would rosemary do lol

 

[cincity420]

@xtsho,

The Nuke Em stuff is funny.

Active Ingredients By Weight
Citric Acid 0.05%
Inert Ingredients
Water, Yeast (Enzymes), Potassium Salts of Fatty Acids,
Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Total: 100.00%

What is listed as it's "inactive ingredients" (yeast enzymes) are actually the facilitator to why the citric acid is able to work.
The yeast enzymes (most likely protease, amylase, and lipase) cause the chitin to break down a little which causes the insect to molt prematurely and then the citric acid burns the shit out of them!!!

By the way "potassium salts of fatty acids" if fancy talk for potassium based soap (Dr. Bronners).

The sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate are food-safe preservatives.

Just so you know...

In my opinion $26 for 8oz of this stuff seems a bit pricey for what it actually is.
There's no "magic" to it.

I mean a bottle of Dr. Bronners unscented soap (32oz), a bottle of Now Foods Super Enzymes (180 tablets), and some citric acid (1 pound), would cost you like $43.42 off Amazon and this would be enough to make gallons of the "concentrate."

So the Nuke Em route is $3.25/oz. of "concentrate."
The DIY route is $0.14/oz. of "concentrate."

All of these things are pretty shelf stable by themselves, so they will only begin to degrade once they are mixed together with the water (which is probably between 4 to 6 ounces for the 8 ounce "concentrate"). The Super Enzyme has a shelf life of about 3 years, but the others are pretty much indefinite as long as the citric acid isn't allowed to get too hot.

Here are Amazon links if you want to buy the "raw" materials.
They ARE NOT affiliate links, so I don't benefit in any way if buy from them or not.

If anyone wants to know how I would mix this, just message me and I will tell you.

Soap
https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Bronners-Pure-Castile-Liquid-Soap/dp/B00DAI76TC/ref=sr_1_5_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1548731877&sr=8-5&keywords=dr.+bronners+unscented

Now Foods Super Enzymes
https://www.amazon.com/NOW-Super-Enzymes-180-Tablets/dp/B0013OXKJA/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1548731845&sr=8-4&keywords=now+foods+super+enzymes

Citric Acid
https://www.amazon.com/Milliard-Citric-Acid-Pound-VERIFIED/dp/B00EYFKKZC/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1548731899&sr=8-4&keywords=citric+acid

i’m actually very interested in this method. do you know of any stores that sell that stuff short of ordering it offline?

 

[cincity420]

i’ve also read that miticides don’t treat unhatched eggs, is that true?

 

[Chris Edward]

eh something stupid i read online. i didn’t buy it. i started thinking about if mitey wash didn’t kill them off what would rosemary do lol

@cincity420,
Rosemary Oil, has a lot of uses, so I wouldn't discount it.
I was just curious.