My first attempt at QWISO

meangreengrowinmachine

Well-Known Member
Ya, I just bubble to reduce starting material size. Don't trim. Just hang whole plant till its dry AF (outdoor grows). Don't care about cure or anything. Then bubble it all to separate the good from the bad. Then depending on quality further refine (QWISO, BHO) or just leave as is.

I prefer good bubble over anything, but if the bubble isn't good ill refine it into QWISO or something.
I really want to do a few large hash plants in the summer outdoors and just do something like this with them and get a bulk amount of concentrate to use for whatever (edibles salves for friends and relatives) but so paranoid about fly overs and sht here lol
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
I really want to do a few large hash plants in the summer outdoors and just do something like this with them and get a bulk amount of concentrate to use for whatever (edibles salves for friends and relatives) but so paranoid about fly overs and sht here lol
Just plant it on your neighbors property :)


If this was your first run, it turned out really well. Lol you shoulda seen my first QWISO... LMAO :mrgreen: It was back in the day when all of the concentrates and forums were just getting going and I remember me and my buddy would double boil bricks (the brown you'd get wrapped in foil lmao) in ISO for hours upon hours. The house would wreak! Finally we'd be done and the oil would be black and sticky as shit. Like a sludge. We'd save a few oz from each lb and turn em into powder to throw back into the sludge so you could handle it without it sticking. We called it Habibi. Lmao. Strong as shit and looked like caviar. Tasted like ISO lmao :bigjoint:
 
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meangreengrowinmachine

Well-Known Member
If this was your first run, it turned out really well. Lol you shoulda seen my first QWISO... LMAO :mrgreen: It was back in the day when all of the concentrates and forums were just getting going and I remember me and my buddy would double boil lbs of brown brick in ISO for hours upon hours. The house would wreak! Finally we'd be done and the oil would be black and sticky as shit. Like a sludge. We'd save a few oz from each lb and turn em into powder to throw back into the sludge so you could handle it without it sticking. We called it Habibi. Lmao. Strong as shit and looked like caviar. Tasted like ISO lmao :bigjoint:
ha thats awesome! the most recent pic was my second attempt my first was above and was pretty decent I thought. I made sure to look up a lot of info including @Thundercat 's method (which is basically what I went off) Now I need to try to make some edibles out of my 3rd wash results.... 1 batch that will work for me and one for some friends that dont really smoke and just want something for medicinal and to help with anxiety and pain.
 

Thegermling

Well-Known Member
"Polymers can dissolve, but silicone rubber won't dissolve in alcohol. It will swell to some degree depending on the type of silicone and degree of cross-linking of the polymer. When this happens, the polymer is essentially trying to dissolve, and taking solvent into its structural lattice. It could swell to many times the original size. But when the alcohol is removed and allowed to evaporate, it will return to the original state, it has not dissolved, or melted."

I'm pretty sure that ISO doesn't break down Silicone. Parchment doesnt seem to be anything to worry about. I scrape too (when I run out of PP lol), either way works.

Google "Silicone react with IPA"..
Silicone does react with Iso. The reason it swells is the reaction. I googled (is that a word?) it and it does not say it leeches/strips it, true.Same was said about butane and silicone until everyone found out about that. Cant find a edu website or similar just forums and whatnot.
If youre using this as medicine I suggest using ALL glass and ethanol to be on the safe side.
PDFE is much safer to use as well.
 

meangreengrowinmachine

Well-Known Member
Silicone does react with Iso. The reason it swells is the reaction. I googled (is that a word?) it and it does not say it leeches/strips it, true.Same was said about butane and silicone until everyone found out about that. Cant find a edu website or similar just forums and whatnot.
If youre using this as medicine I suggest using ALL glass and ethanol to be on the safe side.
PDFE is much safer to use as well.
I am all good pressing it all together AFTER all the ISO has evaped out though right that is all I use the parchment for that and storage.
 

meangreengrowinmachine

Well-Known Member
Silicone does react with Iso. The reason it swells is the reaction. I googled (is that a word?) it and it does not say it leeches/strips it, true.Same was said about butane and silicone until everyone found out about that. Cant find a edu website or similar just forums and whatnot.
If youre using this as medicine I suggest using ALL glass and ethanol to be on the safe side.
PDFE is much safer to use as well.
as far as ethanol... I really dont know that I can justify the RIDICULOUS cost difference between ISO and ethanol... like 45 for a 1.75 liter of everclear vs iso cost you posted earlier.. blech... heck I dont even think actual RSO made by the man himself was using that lol
 

Thegermling

Well-Known Member
as far as ethanol... I really dont know that I can justify the RIDICULOUS cost difference between ISO and ethanol... like 45 for a 1.75 liter of everclear vs iso cost you posted earlier.. blech... heck I dont even think actual RSO made by the man himself was using that lol
Yeah rick used fucking namptha LOL. If your iso oil, or mine, or his etc., was submitted to a lab to be tested im sure there would be beyond acceptabl trace amounts of iso or whatever is used. People with dispensaries get that stuff to acceptable levels I presume to not sell toxic to the public and be fined. Me and you dont have that tech to know I think. So, I guess we make with what we can. Ethanol is more expensive for sure but its safer than iso and butane because it can be consumed by humans.
 

meangreengrowinmachine

Well-Known Member
Yeah rick used fucking namptha LOL. If your iso oil, or mine, or his etc., was submitted to a lab to be tested im sure there would be beyond acceptabl trace amounts of iso or whatever is used. People with dispensaries get that stuff to acceptable levels I presume to not sell toxic to the public and be fined. Me and you dont have that tech to know I think. So, I guess we make with what we can. Ethanol is more expensive for sure but its safer than iso and butane because it can be consumed by humans.
Yeah I am all out on the Butane stuff unless I were to get a vaccum chamber and heat mat and all that stuff. Really the main thing that is different in ISO VS ethanol is the chemical they add to iso so people that are hard up wont go buy a cheap ass bottle of that vs a cheap ass bottle of hooch lol
 

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
Yeah I am all out on the Butane stuff unless I were to get a vaccum chamber and heat mat and all that stuff. Really the main thing that is different in ISO VS ethanol is the chemical they add to iso so people that are hard up wont go buy a cheap ass bottle of that vs a cheap ass bottle of hooch lol
They don't add anything to Isopropyl alcohol. It is medical grade only not drinkable. But it is only ISO and water so it completely evaporates. I would really bet that properly evape ISO oil would test just fine in a lab. I hope to prove that in the next couple months. I recently got access to testing opportunities.

You are confusing it with denatured alcohol. Denatured alcohol has adaptives and should NOT be used for extraction.
 

meangreengrowinmachine

Well-Known Member
They don't add anything to Isopropyl alcohol. It is medical grade only not drinkable. But it is only ISO and water so it completely evaporates. I would really bet that properly evape ISO oil would test just fine in a lab. I hope to prove that in the next couple months. I recently got access to testing opportunities.

You are confusing it with denatured alcohol. Denatured alcohol has adaptives and should NOT be used for extraction.
Ah ok gotcha
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Ya the PTFE sheets or Teflon sheets are nice and they are less reactive (almost non-reactive).

Just curious, anyone ever blast into a Teflon Pan? :confused:

The butane freezes the slicone treatment on parchment and CAN flake off in the final product depending how cold the pour was, how deep the standing solution is, how long the purge took and at what temperature it was purged at, but it doesn't break the silicone down into something smaller. For large BHO batches I don't pour onto parchment, I only do small BHO runs onto parchment. Smaller runs where it's not a stagnant standing solution seem to negate any parchment flaking IME, but to each his own.

I've also noticed with QWISO depending on the water percent in the IPA used (99%, 91%, 70%) the parchment paper (not silicone treatment) will get "soggy" from the water depending on the size of the run, and again smaller runs are better and easier, for me.

Pyrex eliminates any of these possible issues should they exist (so I can understand your reasoning), and an option I use as well when the parchment is out.

"Methylated Spirits" or "Denatured Alcohol" are 90% ETOH and 10% Methanol or other, but IPA is 100% Isopropanol. ETOH is 100% Ethanol. IPA and ETOH are 2 different alcohols, nothing is added to IPA to make it non-drinkable, it's just non-drinkable by nature. At least large quantities. :mrgreen:

EDIT: didn't realize ^^^ this has already been touched on lol happy smokes!
 
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ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Yeah I am all out on the Butane stuff unless I were to get a vaccum chamber and heat mat and all that stuff. Really the main thing that is different in ISO VS ethanol is the chemical they add to iso so people that are hard up wont go buy a cheap ass bottle of that vs a cheap ass bottle of hooch lol
I pour my soaked BHO into a Pyrex with standing IPA in it. The IPA will keep the solution in a low viscosity state and give the butane the time and ability to evap off. I apply a lil heat to encourage the butane to go, and then when there's no more butane bubbles and its just standing IPA, I then pour the solution onto parchment to purge. I don't use any vaccum tech. :bigjoint:
 

meangreengrowinmachine

Well-Known Member
I pour my soaked BHO into a Pyrex with standing IPA in it. The IPA will keep the solution in a low viscosity state and give the butane the time and ability to evap off. I apply a lil heat to encourage the butane to go, and then when there's no more butane bubbles and its just standing IPA, I then pour the solution onto parchment to purge. I don't use any vaccum tech. :bigjoint:
Huh interesting and this gives you a sufficient purge you think? I have never heard of this before... not that I have looked into BHO that much.
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Huh interesting and this gives you a sufficient purge you think? I have never heard of this before... not that I have looked into BHO that much.
Absolutely. I used to use butane with mercapton in it, the stinky stuff, and thinning was the only way to get rid of the butane and mercapton all the way (without vaccuum tech). If I couldn't smell the mercapton then I knew I was below .00073ppm. (See attached .pdf, mercaptons are used in most petroleum based solvents, methyl, butyl, ethyl, propyl, ect, ) Instead of waiting for the BHO to slowly evap off outside, you can have 60-70°f IPA to quickly evap the BHO off outside and then you can finish your purge inside in a more private and controlled environment.

I now only use "Whip-It!" brand butane. Food grade. But I still blast or pour into IPA first to help purge all the butane. IPA is used in hospitals to clean wounds ect, so I figure between the 2, food grade and medical grade I should be good.
 

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meangreengrowinmachine

Well-Known Member
Absolutely. I used to use butane with mercapton in it, the stinky stuff, and thinning was the only way to get rid of the butane and mercapton all the way (without vaccuum tech). If I couldn't smell the mercapton then I knew I was below .00073ppm. (See attached .pdf, mercaptons are used in most petroleum based solvents, methyl, butyl, ethyl, propyl, ect, ) Instead of waiting for the BHO to slowly evap off outside, you can have 60-70°f IPA to quickly evap the BHO off outside and then you can finish your purge inside in a more private and controlled environment.

I now only use "Whip-It!" brand butane. Food grade. But I still blast or pour into IPA first to help purge all the butane. IPA is used in hospitals to clean wounds ect, so I figure between the 2, food grade and medical grade I should be good.
huh interesting... is there a large difference between BHO and QWISO? In my mind seems like if you get a great product with the QWISO method why would I even mess with the risks of BHO. Maybe its just one of those different strokes different folks type of deals lol.
 

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
huh interesting... is there a large difference between BHO and QWISO? In my mind seems like if you get a great product with the QWISO method why would I even mess with the risks of BHO. Maybe its just one of those different strokes different folks type of deals lol.
BHO won't pull chlorophyll out well, so it's easier to get a yellow or light colored extraction. However lots of BHO guys redisolve their BHO in ethanol and "winterize" it. It removes the fats and lipids extracted by the butane. Essentially doin both technique.

That always seemed like a ton of work for a very similar product when done correctly.
 

meangreengrowinmachine

Well-Known Member
BHO won't pull chlorophyll out well, so it's easier to get a yellow or light colored extraction. However lots of BHO guys redisolve their BHO in ethanol and "winterize" it. It removes the fats and lipids extracted by the butane. Essentially doin both technique.

That always seemed like a ton of work for a very similar product when done correctly.

see thats what I was thinking lol
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
huh interesting... is there a large difference between BHO and QWISO? In my mind seems like if you get a great product with the QWISO method why would I even mess with the risks of BHO. Maybe its just one of those different strokes different folks type of deals lol.
Ya, pretty much just personal preference.

The Butane does a really good job at getting all the good stuff without any of the bad in only one run, the IPA picks up a lot of undesirables and I typically do multiple runs in case I missed anything previously (if using IPA).

Butane is NON-POLAR, meaning the molecule doesn't have a negative and positive side because its equally charged all around due to its structure.

IPA is an alcohol and is neither non-polar or polar because it has parts that's act as each. (The hydroxide is polar (OH-) and the carbon portion is NON-POLAR or evenly charged) The reason you do the IPA washes so god-dam-cold is to freeze any water based particles or polar particles so they are not dissolved by the polar side of the IPA and water mixture. Water is a polar molecule.

The reason people freeze butane extractions is to freeze the waxes that make up the tric stalk and head that are non polar and will be dissolved with the butane (as well as butane is a gas at over 32°f so it has to be cold to "wash" with it). Lipids and waxes freeze at warmer temps than canabinoids. Keeping the solution below the freezing point of the waxes during the extraction is called "De-waxing" (I think lol) and mitigates having to winterize later (if you choose to do so).

Winterizing is soaking the concentrate in ETOH and freezing to precipitate the water based lipids and waxes to then filter out. Winterizing removes the plant waxes but many of the terpenes are bound up in the lipids and waxes so you lose alotta of the terpene profile and some canabinoids as well.

If you want all the good stuff in one run, butane's your girl, but IPA can be just as good and none of the outdoor BS. If you got lots of material IPA the cheaper route, so its just all personal, IMO. :bigjoint:
 
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meangreengrowinmachine

Well-Known Member
Ya, pretty much just personal preference.

The Butane does a really good job at getting all the good stuff without any of the bad in only one run, the IPA picks up a lot of undesirables and I typically do multiple runs in case I missed anything previously (if using IPA).

Butane is NON-POLAR, meaning the molecule doesn't have a negative and positive side because its equally charged all around due to its structure.

IPA is an alcohol and is neither non-polar or polar because it has parts that's act as each. (The hydroxide is polar (OH-) and the carbon portion is NON-POLAR or evenly charged) The reason you do the IPA washes so god-dam-cold is to freeze any water based particles or polar particles so they are not dissolved by the polar side of the IPA and water mixture. Water is a polar molecule.

The reason people freeze butane extractions is to freeze the waxes that make up the tric stalk and head that are non polar and will be dissolved with the butane (as well as butane is a gas at over 32°f so it has to be cold to "wash" with it). Lipids and waxes freeze at warmer temps than canabinoids.

If you want all the good stuff in one run, butane's your girl, but IPA can be just as good and none of the outdoor BS. If you got lots of material IPA the cheaper route, so its just all personal, IMO. :bigjoint:
thanks for all this great info man! I think for now I will stick to the QWISO and work with that for a while. Keep learning and maybe try to prep an area to safely run some BHO.
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
thanks for all this great info man! I think for now I will stick to the QWISO and work with that for a while. Keep learning and maybe try to prep an area to safely run some BHO.
You got the hang of QWISO by the looks of your pics :weed:. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Lol

But doing different shit and learning is fun too haha just be safe. Butane outdoors. :mrgreen:
 
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