HLG 240h 24a questions.

mastrmasn

Well-Known Member
I’m running an HLG 240 24a. Currently hooked up to 12 1’ EB 2 and 3 2’ EB 2. Per my calculation I’m getting around 210 - 215w. What’s the max W this driver will run?
 

mastrmasn

Well-Known Member
On paper, they're rated for 250W...
On paper.... care to elaborate? I work in power supplies (military applications) what we rate on paper doesn’t mean squat compared to what they can actually run lol. I’m iffy about having our techs take a look at this driver and give me an answer without asking to many questions.
Quick edit it’s the 20a not 24a.
 

JavaCo

Well-Known Member
On paper.... care to elaborate? I work in power supplies (military applications) what we rate on paper doesn’t mean squat compared to what they can actually run lol. I’m iffy about having our techs take a look at this driver and give me an answer without asking to many questions.
Quick edit it’s the 20a not 24a.
You got to watch out in here pretty much everyone measures the input side and doesn't factor in the efficiency, so they usually say they put out more then they are rated for when meanwell clearly rates them on the output side. Wattometers work on the AC input side and that's what pretty much every one uses. Personal experience I really couldn't say I run all my stuff in series so I own all HLG c series drivers. I seriously doubt it would put out much more then 240 to 250 watts.
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
"On paper" is talking about multiplying the max voltage range with the max rated amperage range.

Amps × volts = watts

In the 20A example, you'd have 21.4v × 12A for a total DC side wattage of 256.8w.

In the 24A example, you'd have 25.6v × 10A for a total DC side wattage of 256.0w.

These are "paper" or theoretical limits. Most MW drivers have a little extra power than what they are rated for. In this instance (and understanding the MW under rating tendency), 256w output for a 240w rated MW driver seems right on par.
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Datasheets are useless with Meanwell drivers. Always go off the test report.

https://www.meanwell-web.com/content/files/pdfs/productPdfs/MW/HLG-240H/HLG-240H-24-rpt.pdf

(10.845a x 24v) X1.07 = 278w

Most HLG-240H A types can push over 300w
Curious, where are you getting the 1.07 correction factor from?

According to the test result its almost 284w DC output. 26.19v × 10.845A = 284w. That's quite a bit more than the "paper" or calculated maximum.

Thanks @diyled for providing that data. I didn't know they had test reports like this. :razz:
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
That's the drivers efficiency loss which is an added wattage of 7%.
I know it's not much different, but dividing by .93 and multiplying by 1.07 will give different figures.

Multiplying the .93 figure by 1.07 is essentially adding 7% of the 93% back onto the 93%. It will be off because 7% of 93% is less than 7% of 100%.

Yea, my both 240H-C1050A goes to 325W at the wall.
325w (AC side) × .93
=
302.25w (DC side)

Do you use a multimeter to adjust your output? Do you know what your V & I are? That unit is only rated for 238v lol I'm curious where its making up the added power from. (@Moflow too) Extra I or V or both?

I wonder if I could shop for 240s instead of 320s if trying to power 300w of LED, seems do-able with those power outputs.
 
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KonopCh

Well-Known Member
@ChiefRunningPhist I go with the total wall output. I think I have 234-236V by spreadsheets, so closely to maxximum. I don't remember anymore, I made a light couple of months ago. But if you wish, google and calculate it. I have 10x 4ft Q's + 6x 660nm on each driver. Hope that helps.
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
@ChiefRunningPhist I go with the total wall output. I think I have 234-236V by spreadsheets, so closely to maxximum. I don't remember anymore, I made a light couple of months ago. But if you wish, google and calculate it. I have 10x 4ft Q's + 6x 660nm on each driver. Hope that helps.
Idk what a 4ft Q is, and I believe you, I was just curious what they'd go to.

I'd have to know what chip is used in the LED and how the LED is wired (Series: Parallel) as well as how you have them wired to the driver.

I use 320hs but have to dial them back for (2) QB304+'s (8P:38S, lm561c/epistar660nm). So I have to use a multimeter to set the drivers because I can't just crank them full blast. I was just curious if you had to do the same seeing as you likewise utilize a CC MW driver. I'm currently using all my 320h drivers otherwise I'd test them to see. Don't feel pressured to test I was just curious.
 
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