You People are going to love this,DIY WATERFARM, including the drip ring

Eharmony420

Well-Known Member
Ever hear of corporate espionage? well at great persoanl risk I got you,the comunty if roll it up water farm plans incuding the pump colum and drip ring diy. Save a bundle. Very professional and easy diy. I got one waterfarm and I love it so this is some fun news. Prob a third the price.

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The "Aquafarm"​
This system was developed and popularized by General Hydroponics nearly twenty years ago as their
first product. The original design, which is still in production, is known as the "Aquafarm". In recent
years it has seen new embodiments named the "Watergarden" (a decorative version), the "Powergrower"
(a revised version of the watergarden), the "Waterfarm" (a square version), and the "Megafarm" (a 20
gallon version). A similar bucket based system is also being sold by another company under the name of
the "Universal Garden". These units are extremely reliable, easy to operate and are very simple to
construct. All of these systems retail in the 50 dollar per unit range. This document will show you how to
build this type of system for very low cost.
This system will accommodate several small plants or (as best suited for) hold one large plant. I
personally have seen a 12 foot tall tree being grown in an aquafarm, as well as a very large banana tree,
both indoors. The plants are grown in a chamber suspended above a reservoir (basically a bucket within a
bucket) that holds the nutrient solution. A small aquarium pump powers a simple pumping mechanism
which delivers nutrients from the reservoir up to the top of the growth chamber, where it trickles back
down through the root zone and into the reservoir. This system is so effective it is not uncommon for
tomato plants to grow over 4 inches per day! This system gives huge yields! I HIGHLY recommend this
unit for the first time hydroponic grower.​
Parts List to make one "Aquafarm"​
Item Cost Notes
1 ea. 5 gallon bucket $4.00 Get this at just about any hardware store or scrounge it -
they are everywhere. Make sure you use a "standard" pail.
See the detail drawings .
1 ea 3.5 gallon bucket $4.00-
6.00
This is the most difficult part to find. This bucket is the
same diameter as the 5 gallon size but several inches
shorter. The criteria for this bucket is that it nests inside
the 5 gallon bucket. See detail drawings.
1 ea. ½" rubber grommet $0.69 You'll find this item in the electrical supply part of your
hardware store. The ½" measurement refers to the inside
diameter of the rubber grommet. See the detail drawings.
1 ea. 14" long piece of
schedule 125 or 200 ½" dia.
PVC pipe
$0.60
per ten
feet
You'll find this near the sprinkler supply stuff in the
plumbing section of the hardware store.​
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1 ea. 14" long white
polyethylene tubing.
3/8" Outside diameter, 1/4"
Inside diameter
$0.10
per foot
Once again, you'll find this in the plumbing section of
your hardware store. The white polyethylene tubing is not
a must, but it works the best (I have used 3/8" O.D. clear
aquarium tubing). What is most important is the outside
diameter, it must be small enough to fit inside the "tee".
Secondly an inside diameter of 1/4" makes the pump
perform best. The pump I made with the aquarium tubing
(which had a larger inside diameter) did not perform as
well.
1 ea. 15" long, 5/16" outside
diameter vinyl tubing
$0.10 -
$0.20
per foot
Plumbing section, right next to the poly tubing. Once
again, you just have to get close. The important qualities
of this part are first, the outside diameter of the tubing and
secondly flexibility. 5/16" tubing makes a nice snug fit
into the "tee", unfortunately this size tubing is not
common. You can use 3/8" O.D. tubing and wrap it with
tape to make a tight fit into the "tee". The tubing must be
flexible enough to be bent into a ring without kinking.
1 ea. ½" Raindrip barbed
"tee"
$0.55 Raindrip is a popular brand of drip irrigation product. You
should be able to find this in the sprinkler section of you
local hardware store. If you cannot find this part you can
order it from one of the suppliers that I have listed. Also
you may study the detail drawing that I have provided and
make a substitution.
1 ea. ½" Raindrip barbed
elbow
$0.55 Same thing as above, but an elbow.
1 ea. 10" long ½" I.D. tubing $0.40
per foot
You'll need to find a transparent tubing as this is used to
indicate the level of solution in the reservoir.
1 ea. 16" long 3/16" O.D.
aquarium air tubing
$0.80
per 3
feet
You'll find this at the pet store, one three foot length will
make two pump columns.
1 length of 3/16" I.D.
aquarium pump tubing
$0.20
per foot
Pet store​
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1 small aquarium pump $3.00 to
$40.00
You can use any size aquarium pump. I have successfully
used the smallest $3.00 cheapo pump. Although, I do
recommend buying a pump a few notches up from bottom
of the line. The small pumps provide enough air to run the
system but they only last for about a year and they usually
start humming after a few months. Another benefit to
buying a larger air pump - the increased output is enough
to run more that one Aquafarm. I have powered up to six
aquafarms on one "mega" 30 dollar aquarium pump.​
Assembly Instructions
1. Remove the handles from the buckets.
2. Drill drainage holes in the bottom of the 3.5 gallon bucket.​
The size of
the drainage holes is not critical, just keep them small enough to keep your
growing medium from falling into the nutrient reservoir. I usually drill
holes somewhere around 5/32" in diameter. Also, be sure to drill enough
holes for adequate drainage. I usually drill about 30 to 40 holes in a pattern
similar to the one pictured to the right.

3. Drill the pump column hole
in the bottom of the 3.5 gallon
bucket.​
Use a 13/16" diameter
spade drill bit to do this. Drill
this hole approximately two
inches away from the outer edge
of the bucket. Refer to the
drawing at right for placement.
Pictured at left you will see a diagram of the two
types of spade bit available. Bit "A" has pointed outer teeth where bit "B" does not. I have found that
type "A" works far better for drilling holes in plastic pails. The two outer teeth cut through the thickness
of the pail before the main cutter engages. This makes for an easy cut resulting in a perfectly circular
hole with no irregularities. Finally, when drilling the hole proceed with light pressure and, if you have a
variable speed drill, a slow drill speed. Be ready to stop the drill as you break through the bucket, if you
continue to drill after you have pierced the bucket, the bit will rattle in the hole and "hog" it out into a
larger, triangular shaped hole. A perfect hole in the 5 gallon bucket is necessary for the grommet to seal

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properly, so it pays to practice here where it really doesn't count.​
4. Drill the grommet hole in the side of the five gallon bucket.​
Drill
this hole on the side of the bucket as close to the bottom as possible.
Be careful not to pierce the bottom web of the bucket. Unfortunately I
can't give you the exact size of the hole to drill because there are
several types of rubber grommets which vary slightly in size. You will
need to measure your grommet and determine what size hole to drill
(this should be in the ballpark of 3/4" or 13/16"). I suggest that you
drill a test hole in something other than your bucket and check the fit
of the grommet. The diagram at right shows the 5 gallon bucket with
the hole drilled, the rubber grommet fitted and the elbow pressed into
place.

5. Insert the rubber grommet into the 5 gallon bucket.​
It is important that the grommet forms a water
tight seal with the bucket, so you may have to remove any burrs left from the drilling process with a
utility knife.

6. Insert the elbow into the rubber grommet.​
When you press the elbow into the grommet hold your
hand on the grommets' back side to keep it from pushing through into the bucket. Insert the elbow about
half way into the grommet so that is still has room to swivel. When you're done with this step you should
have something that looks like the drawing above.

7. Attach the 10" long, ½" I.D. tube to the elbow.​
Attach this tubing to the part of the elbow on the
outside of the bucket. This tubing will serve to indicate the level of nutrient in the Aquafarm. When it's
time to change the solution it also acts as a drain, you simply swivel it down and let the solution drain
out!

8. Insert the 3.5 gallon bucket into the 5 gallon bucket.​
At this point you have completed the body of
the Aquafarm and you should have something that looks like the drawing at right.

9. Cut the pump column support tube.​
Following the
diagram at right, cut the 1/2" pvc pipe to 14" in length
measuring from the tip of the bevel. Make the cut at

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approximately 45 degrees.​
10. Insert the pump column support tube (from previous step) into it's hole
(from step 3) in the bottom of the 3.5 gallon bucket.​
Insert it beveled end
first and push it all the way in, until it bottoms out in the nutrient reservoir.

11. Cut the tee as shown.​
A small hacksaw works best. Discard the two small
pieces.

12. Cut and drill the drip ring.​
Cut the 5/16" O.D. tubing to 15 inches long and drill seven 1/8"
diameter holes equally spaced along its length (refer to the diagrams below).

13. Insert the drip ring into the "tee".​
Press the ends of the tubing into the cut ends of the "tee". Make
sure the holes in the tubing point towards the stem of the "tee". Set this aside for later.

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14. Heat the 3/16" aquarium tubing.​
Heat the tubing about 1" from the end
until it is soft enough to bend. Rotate it just over the tip of a flame so it is
evenly heated, just a few seconds will do the trick.

15. Bend the tubing.​
Make the bend to just a little less than 45 degrees. It is
important that you do not kink the tubing as air must flow through it.

16. Trim the tubing.​
Bevel the end of the tubing as shown. The length of the
bent portion of the tubing should be about 1/4" long.

17. Drill the hole in the 3/8" O.D. pump column tube.​
Drill a
3/16" diameter hole in the side of the pump column tube,
approximately 1 inch from the end.

18. Assemble the pump column.​
Insert the bent end of the 3/16" aquarium
tubing into the hole in the pump column tube. Seal the joint with a non water
soluble glue. Hot glue is wonderful, but something like epoxy works too. Spot
glue the aquarium tube to the pump column tube in several places too.

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19. Attach the pump column to the drip ring.​
Slip the drip ring over
the pump column, don't glue it. Voila! You've completed the pump
column!

20. Final step. Insert the pump column assembly into the pvc support tube.​
You should now have

something like the drawing below. Congratulations on completing your first "aquafarm".


Pretty cool,huh,and no I did not steal these from GH,lol.:eyesmoke:
 

Rob Lewis

Member
Hi Eharmony420,

I'm trying to make my own. Did you ever have luck uplaoding some pictures of this? Or if anyone else has some picutres of how they did theirs pumping column. thanks!
 

Bigz2277

Well-Known Member
A water farm brings the water through the colum and to the ring with and airpump. not a water pump. I dont see you could water with that setup 24/7 and not have a airstone in it?
 

Rob Lewis

Member
So i'm using the search option. Alot of great info on this site!

So I picked up a waterfarm kit this weekend. Looked at it, thought it was easy. Mine didn't turn out. It pumps water for the first 1/4 sec, then stops and just shoots out air. I think I need a bigger column for the return water. So i'm going to try and find a place selling the parts listed on the first page. If I get it working i'll post come pictures. :)

opinions wanted; If I cant get my DIY waterfarm to work, witch would you go with? I have a couple mother plants that I manually water and sometimes get missed(Work..etc).

So I was going to setup a drip system using a waterfarm kit, or a drip using small pond pump. I found a place selling the farm kit for under 10 backs, also find some small 5 watt pond pumps for 8 or so bucks. I just dont know which would be better for the long run. thanks again!
 
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