Not enough amps? or HPS bulbs bad? New set up Electrician help would be NICE :)

aldeeznutz

aldeeznutz

Well-Known Member
Renfro said:
600 x 3 = 1800 watts.

1800 watts divided by 120 volts = 15 amps

A 15 amp breaker should have popped as it should never allow a constant draw of 15 amps.
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Its a room i'm setting up, so its not really in use. It was just a test. So i have the light on right now running at 600watts it will run without turning off. but when i turn it up to 750w it turns off after like 15-20minutes. Im not using any amps in the room besides the inline fan and 3 clone dome with 17w lights each dome. I'm a little confused why this is happening.
 
aldeeznutz

aldeeznutz

Well-Known Member
Renfro said:
With a 15 amp 120 volt feed you are limited to one 1000 watter at 8.33 amps. That leaves 3.667 amps of usable power for fans and shit. You could run two 600 watters at 10 amps and have 2 amps left over for fans and shit.

Basically a 4 x 4 tent is what you can run on a 15 amp 120v feed and thats assuming you can get all the other loads under 3.67 amps.
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Yeah i figured that out, but i feel like this house is old. I'm barely drawing like 600w + 231w and its fine, but the light turns off when i switch it to 750... sigh
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
If the light shuts off as you describe it could be a bad ballast or bulb. The ballast may not be holding the arc after the ignition process is complete. Or it could be shutting down because of an internal thermal overload protector.
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Since the breaker isnt popping the power source isn't the problem unless you had a low voltage issue.

The problem is the ballast or bulb.
 
aldeeznutz

aldeeznutz

Well-Known Member
Originally i had 6 gavitas 120v-240v in flowering and 4 phantom de 208v-240v for the new room. The gavitas are fine i've been using them for a month now, its just when i put them into the room it starts being weird. it wont even go up to 825w on just a single fixture without turning off.

phantom de
gavita was in 20x20 room until i switched it out with phantom bcos the gavitas were 120v.

In my flowering room i have 50amps at 240v.
 
aldeeznutz

aldeeznutz

Well-Known Member
Yeah im just going to run a new 30amp breaker with 10 gauge wire, into a titan controller. I'll just use the 15amps 120v for ac and fans.
 
JohnDee

JohnDee

Well-Known Member
aldeeznutz said:
Hmmmm. Okay so lets say, i have a 11x9.5ft room. What would you run to fit everything under 15amps? 1200watts of hps and 180w of fanfilter or 4x315w cmh and fan filter?
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Can't be done. Just look at the watts/square ft. To fill half that space (roughtly 50 sq ft would take 1500w, and that's using only 30watts/sq ft.

You need to either downscale or get an electrician in there to run some proper circuits.
JD

PS Posted before seeing your latest post. Sounds like that will do the job
 
aldeeznutz

aldeeznutz

Well-Known Member
I wanted to give an update and i've just ran a 50amp breaker with 8 gauge cord into an 8-light 50amp input and 40amp output Titan 4 controller relay with dual cord trigger. Can i convert one of the outlets to run 120v? since i only need 4 220volt outlets and i ahve 8 total.
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
aldeeznutz said:
I wanted to give an update and i've just ran a 50amp breaker with 8 gauge cord into an 8-light 50amp input and 40amp output Titan 4 controller relay with dual cord trigger. Can i convert one of the outlets to run 120v? since i only need 4 220volt outlets and i ahve 8 total.
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No. First off you didn't run a neutral. Second off it's not wired to work that way.
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
aldeeznutz said:
I ran both wires. sorry, I wasn't being specific enough. It was red and black :P
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Red and Black are the colors for hot legs. White is neutral. The two wires you ran should both have went to a breaker, nothing to the neutral bus. That means you have a 240 volt feed. A neutral is required for a 120 volt feed.

Furthermore the way this controller is designed doesn't allow for you to make a 120 volt receptacle as there is no neutral.

Not saying a sparky couldn't rewire it to make this happen but it's really not the way to do it.

If you want a 120 volt outlet just run another feed to another breaker, this time a single pole 15 amp breaker using 14-2 nm-b wire. That said, you should REALLY hire an electrician to do this.

P.S. I hope you connected the ground wire to the ground bus on your existing 240v run.
 
aldeeznutz

aldeeznutz

Well-Known Member
Renfro said:
Red and Black are the colors for hot legs. White is neutral. The two wires you ran should both have went to a breaker, nothing to the neutral bus. That means you have a 240 volt feed. A neutral is required for a 120 volt feed.

Furthermore the way this controller is designed doesn't allow for you to make a 120 volt receptacle as there is no neutral.

Not saying a sparky couldn't rewire it to make this happen but it's really not the way to do it.

If you want a 120 volt outlet just run another feed to another breaker, this time a single pole 15 amp breaker using 14-2 nm-b wire. That said, you should REALLY hire an electrician to do this.

P.S. I hope you connected the ground wire to the ground bus on your existing 240v run.
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I have a buddy that is an electrician and he pretty much walked me through it. I just wanted to see if that was possible, but i will just run another 120v receptacle from the main breaker.
My dad does construction for a living, but i was never interested until recently. So i try to Diy things and i always ask my pops before any. If someone else can do it, why can't you learn and do it yourself as well.
 
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