Potash Deficiency?

[adrenalytic]

Is it possible that water is sitting in the bottom of your pots?

The drainage holes are at the absolute bottom of the pot. Since I never go to bed until all of the runoff is disposed of, this is impossible. Also, I've grown them in these pots for the last 6 weeks and no issues until now.

 

[adrenalytic]

Recommended a decent EC meter. Screw pH meters. Litmus paper is just fine for our purposes. But an EC meter helps you control your feeds. To help you increase them etc.

And to decrease them. Especially in flower.

I mentioned a little bit up above that I use a Blue Lab pH and EC pen and I calibrate them monthly as recommended. If those aren't quality then I got robbed as I paid $180 for the set.

 

[hotrodharley]

I mentioned a little bit up above that I use a Blue Lab pH and EC pen and I calibrate them monthly as recommended. If those aren't quality then I got robbed as I paid $180 for the set.

People read these later.

 

[ShartyWaffles]

Part of the issue is introducing BLOOM before it has actually “ transitioned “ into actual flower not at preflower stages. Most growers will keep veg Nutes going ( even up to 2 weeks into actual flower ) to supplement the need for stretch and branching.

Once stretch has stopped or slowed , bloom can be started. MG is a fertilizer that FEEDS at every watering. Which under most circumstances will cause over fertilizer and burn.

A simple veg feed to carry it thru the change is all that is needed. Take that PH perfect shit with a grain of salt. Checking ppm of water prior to use will set the place to figure your feed load.

My 2¢ .

Use ONLY PH Water only from now til budset ..... let the medium exhaust all of that wonky feed . It is best to keep EC at about 1.2 - 1.6 .

 

[3rd Monkey]

The drainage holes are at the absolute bottom of the pot. Since I never go to bed until all of the runoff is disposed of, this is impossible. Also, I've grown them in these pots for the last 6 weeks and no issues until now.

For what it's worth, I see a ph problem, not necessarily an overfeeding problem. Those leaves in the full plant pic say ph. I'm not saying overfeeding isn't contributing... That's why I asked if water could be sitting in the bottom where the roots are balled up, in an acidic solution. I don't know anything about ph perfect but I don't think any roots like a ph below 5.5.

 

[adrenalytic]

Part of the issue is introducing BLOOM before it has actually “ transitioned “ into actual flower not at preflower stages. Most growers will keep veg Nutes going ( even up to 2 weeks into actual flower ) to supplement the need for stretch and branching.

I am on day 12 of 12x12 lighting. Is that what you mean by "transitioning"? Like the time you move from veg light to flower light? I have been giving them almost the same batch of nutes through almost their entire veg phase. I introduced Sensibloom about midway through and that was the only change. They were fine until I put them in 12x12 and then they started to look like this.

Once stretch has stopped or slowed , bloom can be started. MG is a fertilizer that FEEDS at every watering. Which under most circumstances will cause over fertilizer and burn.

Yeah, I learned that earlier. I won't be using MG in bloom anymore.

A simple veg feed to carry it thru the change is all that is needed. Take that PH perfect shit with a grain of salt. Checking ppm of water prior to use will set the place to figure your feed load.

My 2¢ .

They've gotten the same feed for the last 6 weeks. And I do take the pH perfect with a grain of salt. I pH and EC measure every batch of feed that I make. But somehow, the feed is always in the ph 5.9-6.1 range and the EC is always in the 1.7 - 2.0 range. I've never had to pH down since I started using the Sensibloom (unless I let the feed sit for a few days after making it).

Use ONLY PH Water only from now til budset ..... let the medium exhaust all of that wonky feed . It is best to keep EC at about 1.2 - 1.6 .

So only tap water within acceptable pH and EC ranges? What is defined as "budset"? I mean, I see the hairs of the buds developing pretty quickly. What are the defined limits of this?

P.S. Thanks for the great info.

 

[ShartyWaffles]

Budset is actual tops forming , not the sexing ( pistil throw) .
This when the transition is FORMING the tops. Some growers like myself keep the veg going to LOAD the leaf reserves for the stretch . After week 6 of flower Nitro use drops significantly as buds are filling out and maturing.

To me your medium is heavily loaded so by allowing plant to work thru the excess ( no flushing ) but letting it pull what it needs , it should come around. Just by introducing, water only on feed issues actually helps LEACH by dilution over time.

 

[ShartyWaffles]

It’s a learning thing ... although Cannabis is quite resilient, new growers sometimes add way too much to these plants. You will find less is more with these plants .... they will only uptake so much .

Adding supplements , sweetness , enzymes and god knows what else causes more issues than simple feeds.

Growers mantra : Keep it Simple Stupid . It’s a saying that is quite true. Bottle nute makers make it too easy to SELL you things that are not needed and only for your cash. Later look into simple 2 part feeds like GH . Even MEGACROP for a one and done feed .

Know that those affected leaves will not recover. At this stage ( preflower / flower ) is not the time for the plant to focus repair and stress , but to smoothly move to its next life stage.

 

[adrenalytic]

Budset is actual tops forming , not the sexing ( pistil throw) .
This when the transition is FORMING the tops. Some growers like myself keep the veg going to LOAD the leaf reserves for the stretch . After week 6 of flower Nitro use drops significantly as buds are filling out and maturing.

To me your medium is heavily loaded so by allowing plant to work thru the excess ( no flushing ) but letting it pull what it needs , it should come around. Just by introducing, water only on feed issues actually helps LEACH by dilution over time.

Does this reset my time table for using bloom nutes? I was planning on following Advanced Nutrients' calculated feeding schedule.

I guess my real question is when does "true bloom" begin and when does this table become relevant?

 

[adrenalytic]

Huh..?

What?

 

[NwGKenny]

For what it's worth, I see a ph problem, not necessarily an overfeeding problem. Those leaves in the full plant pic say ph. I'm not saying overfeeding isn't contributing... That's why I asked if water could be sitting in the bottom where the roots are balled up, in an acidic solution. I don't know anything about ph perfect but I don't think any roots like a ph below 5.5.

The repeated overfeeding probably caused the PH problems (but you already know this)

 

[CannaCountry]

"pH going in is always 5.9-6.1. pH coming out is always near the 4.9 to 5.5 range"....I'm not a proponent of checking your runoff pH, and my soil days are long behind me, but this is your sign.

As suggested above, I would allow your plant to eat up some of the nutrients you've stacked up in your soil. Once this happens you'll be set. Good luck.

 

[Logan Burke]

HotRodHarley is dead on...you're double feeding using the MG and sensi. MG does work awesome in veggy in bloom can wreak havoc...drop the MG fertilizers and continue using just one base's nutrient program. It's more likely that overfeeding certian nutrients has created a lockout rather than a true unavailability of potassium or any other nutrient.

 

[adrenalytic]

Update:

So I've been feeding nothing but pH'd water since I started this thread. Just wanted to share some updated photos on how they look. There is still minor wilting on the edges of some leaves but new leaves appear to have it less severe.

How much longer before I can resume a nutrient schedule?

 

[rob333]

Update:

So I've been feeding nothing but pH'd water since I started this thread. Just wanted to share some updated photos on how they look. There is still minor wilting on the edges of some leaves but new leaves appear to have it less severe.

How much longer before I can resume a nutrient schedule?


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there a tad bit nute burn to begin with not bad i would flush once and back off ya nutes by bout half a mill and start off u dont not want them without nutes at this stage u will lose out big so hope to it start feeding

 

[Logan Burke]

You should be ok to resume feeding again, but I'd start out really light on the nutrients. You can always add more nutrients...not as easy to remove excess nutrients though.

 

[adrenalytic]

there a tad bit nute burn to begin with not bad i would flush once and back off ya nutes by bout half a mill and start off u dont not want them without nutes at this stage u will lose out big so hope to it start feeding

Hey Rob, thanks for your reply. I started this thread almost two weeks ago so I'm really just following up from the replies I received. I'm actually not feeding any nutes right now. I just didn't want to have to rehash my whole story in a new thread.

 

[Logan Burke]

Glad to see that things have straightened out a bit for your babies Adrenalytic Hope they continue too!

 

[rob333]

Hey Rob, thanks for your reply. I started this thread almost two weeks ago so I'm really just following up from the replies I received. I'm actually not feeding any nutes right now. I just didn't want to have to rehash my whole story in a new thread.

np mate

 

[adrenalytic]

Glad to see that things have straightened out a bit for your babies Adrenalytic Hope they continue too!

Thanks Logan! They really do become your babies haha. I just want to treat them well so that they treat me well at harvest