4x12 led build HLG elite 96 v2 OR bridgelux EB gen 2

Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Zbud94 said:
Ive also been reading that these QB boards are under powered ! On led gardener the guy used one qb288 v1 and took it to 600 watts ! And it didnt blow ! So my guess the 132's use pretty thick plates to mount the samsung diodes (same diodes as in qb288 test ) the diodes are also spaced out much more on a qb132 than a qb288.
Im thinking that these boards could handle a bit more then they suggest... especially if you had a small fan blow over top of the boards... im think you could get 2300-2500 ma obviously efficiency will go down... but at 2.63 umols ( i believe) at 75 watts is pretty dam good.

My plan is to run on a killawatt meter and adjust down to 300 watts if the driver allows me to... ive read the voltage adjustments arecvery minimal...
Click to expand...
It doesnt have a dimming knob unfortunately
 
Zbud94

Zbud94

Well-Known Member
You 100% sure bud ? From what i saw on the driver ( left hand side next to positive terminals. States a +- 3v with a turn screw. Wouldnt this be to dial in thr correct voltage aka back down to 300 ?
 
1

1212ham

Well-Known Member
Zbud94 said:
I was going to mount the lrs-350-36 on top of the light.... i do not foliar spray and i dont let humidity raise over 70% with lights off
Click to expand...
I think you mean that you never INTEND to let humidity get over 70%. ;) The humidity got too high in my tent once and fried my ultrasonic humidifier. Never forget, those power supplies are intended to be inside an enclosure, there are exposed AC power terminals and openings in the case. Personally, I'll spend the money for an HLG driver.

Zbud94 said:
You 100% sure bud ? From what i saw on the driver ( left hand side next to positive terminals. States a +- 3v with a turn screw. Wouldnt this be to dial in thr correct voltage aka back down to 300 ?
Click to expand...
Yes, the voltage trim can be used to adjust brightness.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Zbud94 said:
You 100% sure bud ? From what i saw on the driver ( left hand side next to positive terminals. States a +- 3v with a turn screw. Wouldnt this be to dial in thr correct voltage aka back down to 300 ?
Click to expand...
Hlg A version drivers have both Voltage regulation AND dimming potentiometers on them. I'm sure you can get the wattage down a bit with the V+- pot though.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Zbud94 said:
Ive also been reading that these QB boards are under powered ! On led gardener the guy used one qb288 v1 and took it to 600 watts ! And it didnt blow ! So my guess the 132's use pretty thick plates to mount the samsung diodes (same diodes as in qb288 test ) the diodes are also spaced out much more on a qb132 than a qb288.
Im thinking that these boards could handle a bit more then they suggest... especially if you had a small fan blow over top of the boards... im think you could get 2300-2500 ma obviously efficiency will go down... but at 2.63 umols ( i believe) at 75 watts is pretty dam good.

My plan is to run on a killawatt meter and adjust down to 300 watts if the driver allows me to... ive read the voltage adjustments arecvery minimal...
Click to expand...
So did you geter the 4 pack from the HLG website?
 
Zbud94

Zbud94

Well-Known Member
1212ham said:
I think you mean that you never INTEND to let humidity get over 70%. ;) The humidity got too high in my tent once and fried my ultrasonic humidifier. Never forget, those power supplies are intended to be inside an enclosure, there are exposed AC power terminals and openings in the case. Personally, I'll spend the money for an HLG driver.



Yes, the voltage trim can be used to adjust brightness.
Click to expand...
Haha yes i mean i never INTEND to let my humidity get that high lol.

Ive made up my mind on driver placement. I really want everything mounted together...
So what if i made an aluminum box for the driver ? Like mount driver on aluminum sheet then mount sheet onto 2 inch angle aluminum then do the same for the top part but space the angle aluminum a tid bit more so its snug against the bottom piece then you could bolt the top angle aluminum to the bottom angle aluminum making a box. Then drill hole in enclosure put rubber grommet inside hole then wrap all wires in heatwrap to make a snug fit inside the grommet ?

Lol does any of this make sense ?

This sauce is really getting to me today ! Haha

In my head this would work...
Either that or i buy a metal box... but that just defeats the purpose of saving money... could have just went with the hlg series but trying to do this as cheap as i could so i could get an idea on how much it will cost me to run a 4x12 station.
 
Zbud94

Zbud94

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
Hlg A version drivers have both Voltage regulation AND dimming potentiometers on them. I'm sure you can get the wattage down a bit with the V+- pot though.
Click to expand...
So ive done some digging. And on a different forum (gc) theres a few guys building lights using qb132's and the lrs-350-36. They did some experimenting using dc motors to dim the drivers but were getting alot of flickering at lower wattages since the dc motor was driving them at such a low voltage down into the teens...

A few people ive seen using the voltage dial on the lrs-350-36 then have an lcd multimeter display like this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071X6PJHK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The people using this setup have between 33v and 39 v of adjustability. Which if you look at the qb132 specs on hlg at low wattages volts read about 33 and there max is i beleive 36.48v

but I'm assuming you could get away with running them a little hotter.
Someone on GC put his on a killawatt meter and turned the voltage regulator alll the way up on the driver !!! Read 480 watts !! Idk how true that is though since all it was was a picture of his killawatt meter...

But i will take that as you can run these harder then advertised....
 
Zbud94

Zbud94

Well-Known Member
Now whats the difference from me running a meter at the lights vs running a killawatt meter at the plug ?

OTHER THAN having to calculate inefficiencies.
 
Zbud94

Zbud94

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
You must have bought the last damn one then cause they're sold out now.
Click to expand...
I REALLY HOPE MINE SHIP.... they haven't shipped yet. Bought yesterday morning at 8 am i looked again at 3 yesterday and they still had the QB132 V1 3500k
 
Zbud94

Zbud94

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
So you're trying to run each one at 75watts, 2400MA, no heatsinks right?
Click to expand...
So the plan is to run the 4 boards at 300 watts (2100ma) as long as i keep the driver voltage doen below 36.5 i should be alright.
No heatsinks needed with the qb132's
If i was to run the qb288 over 65 watts i would need an aluminum plate until i hit about 100 watts then would need a slate 2 heatsink to hit 150 watts per qb288
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Zbud94 said:
So the plan is to run the 4 boards at 300 watts (2100ma) as long as i keep the driver voltage doen below 36.5 i should be alright.
No heatsinks needed with the qb132's
If i was to run the qb288 over 65 watts i would need an aluminum plate until i hit about 100 watts then would need a slate 2 heatsink to hit 150 watts per qb288
Click to expand...
Ya those 132's ain't a bad board. Good spread and if you used 8 on a 4X4 it'd be waaaaaay better than 4 288's.
 
Zbud94

Zbud94

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
Ya those 132's ain't a bad board. Good spread and if you used 8 on a 4X4 it'd be waaaaaay better than 4 288's.
Click to expand...
Yeah if i was to run the qb288's id prob want 6 qb's in a 4x4. 3 per hlg-320 / lrs/ equivalent. Much better spread than an hlg-600 kit.

I cant wait for my qbs to arrive... though my diy led bulb fixture is doing the job in the 3x3 lol
 
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