Damn though, 12"X12"? That's large. Awesome. This true @welight
can you find out ANYTHING on your own!?
Damn though, 12"X12"? That's large. Awesome. This true @welight
That's a good match but it won't be any difference in spread really.You could do 3 logic pucks at 70w with those drivers. It's what I did with that same driver and I'm really happy with it. May even work on you fixture
Can you ever hold your fuckin tongue instead of bitching about shit that doesn't effect or concern you at all?View attachment 4306743
can you find out ANYTHING on your own!?
I would leave the cobs and drivers alone and just run some strips with another driver. It took you a while to build that and it would be a shame to dismantle it. Looks like it would still be working fine. Maybe add some reds or exotic blues to the overall system
it concerns me everytime i need to read about your incompetence in anything lifeCan you ever hold your fuckin tongue instead of bitching about shit that doesn't effect or concern you at all?
So use the IGNORE button, moron! heeeeey, problem solved!it concerns me everytime i need to read about your incompetence in anything life
Oh ok. I didn't realize you were looking for a more even spread. Those pucks do shoot the light out extremely wide but without seeing your space, it's hard to tell if it would be suitable. I know you can drive 4 of the atreum 144.2 panels in series so maybe look at those tooThat's a good match but it won't be any difference in spread really.
What I need to do is just bite the bullet and shorten the width of my fixture from 30"-24". It would make the light spread so much more even in a 4X4.
Ya those are cool but won't fit NY heatsinks. I'm gonna go with the Meiji 288's.O
Oh ok. I didn't realize you were looking for a more even spread. Those pucks do shoot the light out extremely wide but without seeing your space, it's hard to tell if it would be suitable. I know you can drive 4 of the atreum 144.2 panels in series so maybe look at those too
Hi Grisby, the nichia cri97 is pretty awesome as far as spectrum goes, they are lower in efficacy than standard models but I believe they will make for a better overall quality grow, I haven't tested any of the Samsung chips you have suggested yet, I tend to find that data sheets are not right and you often need to deduct 20% from the claimed efficiency on data sheets. One of the main reasons I am conducting test for you guys is so you can learn how to use IES files, efficiency is not as important as an overall build design and with IES files you guys will be able to design your builds on a easy to use program on computer.@TEKNIK
amazing what you are doing, i have some solstrip left : 2 channel nichia 5000k 97cri + 660
2 channel 2000k + cree xd 16 @3500k
if you need one of each for doing teste i would love to send you one of each, im pretty confidente ontheire amazing spectrum
i would love you to tell me more about the spec of the LH351H Far Red and 660
https://cdn.samsung.com/led/file/resource/2018/11/Data_Sheet_LH351H_660nm_Red_Rev.2.0.pdf
https://www.samsung.com/led/lighting/high-power-leds/3535-leds/lh351h-deep-red/
https://www.samsung.com/led/lighting/high-power-leds/3535-leds/lh351h-far-red/
very nice to see someone witch has material to teste everything
So you'd have to use at least 2 channels then and use it for the reds and blues in a different led type?Those are 3030 chips, I have tested single reds and blues in 3030, there is no advantage to running reds and blues in a 3030 package when you are mixing a spectrum, it costs more and no gain.
Currently the SSK-1560 boards are all about white, we tested other 3030 leds in colour and they dont really have the punch that matches the whites. The 3 channel Solstrip-BR is the compromise that is tuneable or channels can be tied together. Are you wanting to have the whites and colours all on the same driver?@welight on those 560mm ssk-1560-3090 is there any other offer that's the same thing but just with maybe 4-6 blues and 12-16 reds amongst the 112 diodes too? Or any amount of reds and blues as well?
Do you have to use 2-3 channels to do that no matter what or is there some diode you could use that handles the same current as the whites?
Growmau is a mate but I dont get the logic puck any more than I get QB96, making COB format devices in 200LPW+ chips negates the benefit of mid power which is to spread the light across the canopy, you get the same shadow/deadspot/hotspot issues of COB's. You gotta spread the light across the canopy to max the yield, The future is strip imho.You could do 3 logic pucks at 70w with those drivers. It's what I did with that same driver and I'm really happy with it. May even work on you fixture
Hi Rocket@welight : can you maybe give some more details on the phosphor covered red chips. Im trying to spec a driver for the red channel and i i nt know the max drive current. As per your email you stated they were 0.65 W chips, and 2.89 ppf/w. Does that mean they are 48V and around 700mA max drive current?
How hard can you drive these chips? Should inhave any specific concerns as to max Temps or similar?
As a matter of fact i would really like this info (max drive current and fV) on the blue channel aswell unless its the standard 28V, 1000 mA.