Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
One issue with overdoing liquid cooling: you may get condensation on cold parts of your thermal management which can later drip on electrics.
Two parallel strings would be another 240$, not looking to spend 700$ on only 480w of light. Even if it is 10% more lumens per watt than the strips, which would make it kind of like 520w equivalent to the strips, it still isn't very economical compared to strips at 435$/480w.Or run at 30w.. just run 2 parallel strings of 4 in series.
No... You're driver runs 4 cobs right? So make 2 series strings of 4, and connect them in parallel. It halve the CC driver current for youTwo parallel strings would be another 240$, not looking to spend 700$ on only 480w of light. Even if it is 10% more lumens per watt than the strips, which would make it kind of like 520w equivalent to the strips, it still isn't very economical compared to strips at 435$/480w.
What would be the estimated lumens per watt you'd give a warm eb strip? From what I read there's typical about 10% drop in lumens from 25c to 80c operating temps. So I'm assuming the EBs at 1A would be somewhere around 160 lm/W if, as the manual says, they're at 175 lm/W at 25c.
That's where I like the cobs, they don't seem to mind running low amperage (1a) and fairly high temps while outputting 180'ish lumens per watt.
I have two 240w drivers running 4 cobs each at 60w for a total system of 480w. Vero 29D is 30$CAD. Adding 8 more to the 8 I already have is adding 240$ more to my system. I'm trying to be economical, not reach for the utmost efficiency without any thought about the cost.No... You're driver runs 4 cobs right? So make 2 series strings of 4, and connect them in parallel. It halve the CC driver current for you
My 180w strip light wasn't difficult or expensive. I TIG welded 1/2" square tubes to 1/2" square headers, bought an $10 pump off eBay and used a plastic tote for a reservoir.I haven't learnt to navigate this forum too well yet. I really like liquid cooling and I can see it working great in a commercial environment. As far as hobby growers go it's far too expensive and difficult to get it right. But please try you may surprise me.
Damn those are some quality sinks. Where the hell did you get them so cheap??I'm using Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 lp heatainks for cooling CXB3070 at 1.9-2.1A (whatever the driver puts out at certain temperature). Picked those for the ease of mounting. You can put your finger on the copper base if the heatsink or base if the cob at any given time and you'll barely feel any warmth.
View attachment 4307796 View attachment 4307798
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Remove the already applied thermal paste and clean it with iso then glue the cob with some arctic silver adhesive or go even crazier and reflow the cob to the copper base with some S-bond
I got those brand new at $10 a pop, copper footprint is 35x35mm
Online from several sources to get all 4 of them. Took me a few months.Damn those are some quality sinks. Where the hell did you get them so cheap??
Do you have a pic of the other end of the pipes? Like do they just go through the 2 sinks, spaced out evenly? Pinched off like the other sides?I'm using Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 lp heatainks for cooling CXB3070 at 1.9-2.1A (whatever the driver puts out at certain temperature). Picked those for the ease of mounting. You can put your finger on the copper base if the heatsink or base if the cob at any given time and you'll barely feel any warmth.
View attachment 4307796 View attachment 4307798
View attachment 4307799
Remove the already applied thermal paste and clean it with iso then glue the cob with some arctic silver adhesive or go even crazier and reflow the cob to the copper base with some S-bond
I got those brand new at $10 a pop, copper footprint is 35x35mm