Finally!!QB Build Thread

budman410

Well-Known Member
Coming from HPS to trying out this LED, has been a frustrating journey to say the least and my boards come in tomorrow! Once I start putting things together I’ll include pics of the process. I have some design questions. I decided to not make one huge frame for the boards since I’m
Constantly changing the work area. I have 2 600h 36 (a) drivers. There are 3 output cords. I’m planning on plugging up 10 boards per driver. Since they have 2 outputs (+/-) should I wire 5 boards per cord?
 
Last edited:

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Hey man.

The 600h A has 3 cords coming out 2 are the main juice, 1 is a remote cord to turn on and off if you wanted to hook up a switch.

The 600h b has 4 cords coming out 2 are the main juice, 1 is a remote cord to turn on and off if you wanted to hook up a switch, and 1 is for an aftermarket dimmer.

What boards did you get? And yep, just equal boards per cord. 5 boards per output. You can tie the outputs together and run all 10, from a single point instead of 2 sets of 5 from 2 points, whatever is easiest.

Wire in parallel. Each board gets 2 wires, 1 neg, 1 pos. All like charged wires are connected together. All positives connected to positives, and all negatives connected to negatives.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
I just got 6 312 I’m going to wire them with the 4 288s
Send pic of the QB312 chip layout if you can.

Combining boards could work but only if you get lucky with chip layout and not really recommended.

Some chips are rated to pass more or less current at a constant V than others, so if you wire all in parallel and have the same 36v potential given across all boards, some strings may draw more current than others, and can lead to thermal runaway.
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Send the data sheets they sent you in the boards too when you do. 312 isn't divisible by 16 so if the QB312s are actually 36v, it'll depend on what current is drawn at that potential. If it is the same current draw per string, then you'll be ok, but that's what it'll take to make it work without adding resistance. I think I saw you said you were waiting on your multimeter in the mail too, that's going to be used to determine this.
 
Last edited:

budman410

Well-Known Member
I ordered a 320 driver for my separate 2nd veg but it’s just that and boards I’m waiting on now. Yea hopefully it works out, I’m not too worried about thermal runaway watched a couple ledgardner vids it took a lot for that to happen but I would put a safeguard in since I would dial up the driver later in flower
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
I ordered a 320 driver for my separate 2nd veg but it’s just that and boards I’m waiting on now. Yea hopefully it works out, I’m not too worried about thermal runaway watched a couple ledgardner vids it took a lot for that to happen but I would put a safeguard in since I would dial up the driver later in flower
What are going to have when it all gets there? If you don't mind me asking? Lol, I just want to make sure I give you the correct advice.

If you've got it down then no sweat, party on, and good luck... :bigjoint: but if you still want someone to double check your wiring, then ya just tell me what you expecting to have when it all gets there.
 

budman410

Well-Known Member
What are going to have when it all gets there? If you don't mind me asking? Lol, I just want to make sure I give you the correct advice.

If you've got it down then no sweat, party on, and good luck... :bigjoint: but if you still want someone to double check your wiring, then ya just tell me what you expecting to have when it all gets there.
Oh no I’m still in need of plenty advice lol..
16 132v2 3k
12 132 v1 and I think one 4 pack is a V2
4 288 with a shared heatsink
6 312 with separate heatsinks
2 600h 36a drivers cc/cv
1 600h 54a driver cc/cv
1 320h a driver cc/cv
1 480h 48ab driver
2 20v 12/12 apv drivers
4 fans
Wagos
6 junction connectors
Multimeter
Kill a watts
Solid wire red/black
...ideal setups
288s with 2 312s with a 600h 54a
6 132 4K 480h at half juice
6 132 4K 320h 50 or 70% juice
10 132 3k 600h 36a
6 132 4 312 600h 36a
If the 312 don’t match well with the 288s I’ll move them over to the 480h or 320h whichever is more feasible
 
Last edited:

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Oh no I’m still in need of plenty advice lol..
16 132v2 3k
12 132 v1 and I think one 4 pack is a V2
4 288 with a shared heatsink
6 312 with separate heatsinks
2 600h 36a drivers cc/cv
1 600h 54a driver cc/cv
1 320h a driver cc/cv
1 480h 48ab driver
2 20v 12/12 apv drivers
4 fans
Wagos
6 junction connectors
Multimeter
Kill a watts
Solid wire red/black
...ideal setups
288s with 2 312s with a 600h 54a
6 132 4K 480h at half juice
6 132 4K 320h 50 or 70% juice
10 132 3k 600h 36a
6 132 4 312 600h 36a
You cannot put 312 boards and 288 boards on the same driver in parallel due to different voltage. Only put boards of the same kind on the same driver.
Also i see you want to put 2 separate 36v chips on the same 36 v driver: this is also likely to cause problems. When they say 36 v its not exact. 312 boards are about 33v on low wattage. Means that what you put on the driver will have about 1-2 V difference which means un even load.
Also putting different chips on the same driver is bad due to spread. 312 and 132 have different ideal hanging height.
 

budman410

Well-Known Member
You cannot put 312 boards and 288 boards on the same driver in parallel due to different voltage. Only put boards of the same kind on the same driver.
Also i see you want to put 2 separate 36v chips on the same 36 v driver: this is also likely to cause problems. When they say 36 v its not exact. 312 boards are about 33v on low wattage. Means that what you put on the driver will have about 1-2 V difference which means un even load.
Also putting different chips on the same driver is bad due to spread. 312 and 132 have different ideal hanging height.
And that’s why I ordered the fans just in case some of these wouldn’t work lol I want to compare 288, 312, 132 with spread, quality, intensity, and for me most importantly wattage. Want the most for my watt usage while still keeping my boards cool and not needing more then my fan that I blow over the top of canopy(toward lights).. I have a couple friends in Cali that’s interested in switching over so any spares I’m sending to them once my demos are finished. Right now I have a couple clones on a table that’s almost a month into flower, some retired mothers that’s 2 week or so into flower, some coco clones/mothers in a 3x3 space that’s pretty young, and some prized older mothers that I just can’t let go, one of them being cherry pie(the real cherry pie) lol. I have a shit ton of gorilla seeds I’m just going to veg and flower, so any left over setups I’ll do them with smaller drivers.
 

budman410

Well-Known Member
I forgot about SCREWS. Can someone drop a link or a place on amazon they get them. I’m picking up a couple m3 from Home Depot but I’m going to need a lot and I’m sure they won’t have enough. Any particular length or they just need to be m3
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Oh no I’m still in need of plenty advice lol..
16 132v2 3k
12 132 v1 and I think one 4 pack is a V2
4 288 with a shared heatsink
6 312 with separate heatsinks
2 600h 36a drivers cc/cv
1 600h 54a driver cc/cv
1 320h a driver cc/cv
1 480h 48ab driver
2 20v 12/12 apv drivers
4 fans
Wagos
6 junction connectors
Multimeter
Kill a watts
Solid wire red/black
...ideal setups
288s with 2 312s with a 600h 54a
6 132 4K 480h at half juice
6 132 4K 320h 50 or 70% juice
10 132 3k 600h 36a
6 132 4 312 600h 36a
If the 312 don’t match well with the 288s I’ll move them over to the 480h or 320h whichever is more feasible
Noice.That's quite the array! :bigjoint:

I'm following your logic right along. The 288s and 312s will provide you with a problem solving opportunity which seems you are already aware of :/ , but the 132s should play much better and might work just fine with the 312s without adding in any additional resistance.

Those 288s are the oddballs of the bunch. If you were not going to split up the 2 types of boards, 312s & 288s, on different drivers, then you'll have to add in components to manage the cct. A few options too consider would be additional resistance added to the lower V string/board, additional zener's added to string/board, a combo of the 2, additional 12v supplemental strips, or a linear regulator cct is pretty easy to build.

There will be ~12v drop you'll need to calculate for and the interface will have to be rated to pass at least ~5.5A. That's a ~66w energy dissipation that's occurring at that interface which means that the (2) 312 boards will require 66w more than they normally would to operate in that cct, so its very inefficient. It also means that the interface will need some heatsinking. If you decide you still want to go that route lmk. I'd recommend using a linear voltage regulator, something like the LM338 if you decide to go that way, but would ultimately recomend splitting them up. The lm338 will have to have additional parallel circuitry or a few wired in parallel to effectively manage the load through itself as well. Lol it can be done but it would require a bit of fine tuning and will cost 66w more to power the 312s at 200w than it normally would. It would take 266w to run 200w at the 312s using some sort of regulator.
^^^All the numbers I'm using are ballpark guesses (but should be fairly close) as there is still some ambiguity in the components, the 5.5A, the 66w, ect, that's why they have "~" in front of them. But a +/- here or there will still result in the same principle of action and explanation.

Adding in 12v supplemental strips might be nice. You could add in deep red or far red 12v strips and not waste any of the 66w on heat like if using the regulator. You could put that V drop to use lighting up red diodes instead of just expelling as heat in the regulator.

The 312s and 132s are going to be much easier. I'm not sure if anything will be required, but a low Ω POT wired in series with either set will mitigate any issues that come up if they do. You can adjust the 2 types of boards' V's with infinite variability using a POT, which means precision tuning. You'd just have to use your multimeter and adjust the POT to equalize the V's between the 2 types of boards.

Good luck lmk what you decide, I'll be checking in periodically. :bigjoint:
 
Last edited:

budman410

Well-Known Member
Noice.That's quite the array! :bigjoint:

I'm following your logic right along. The 288s and 312s will provide you with a problem solving opportunity which seems you are already aware of :/ , but the 132s should play much better and might work just fine with the 312s without adding in any additional resistance.

Those 288s are the oddballs of the bunch. If you were not going to split up the 2 types of boards, 312s & 288s, on different drivers, then you'll have to add in components to manage the cct. A few options too consider would be additional resistance added to the lower V string/board, additional zener's added to string/board, a combo of the 2, additional 12v supplemental strips, or a linear regulator cct is pretty easy to build.

There will be ~12v drop you'll need to calculate for and the interface will have to be rated to pass at least ~5.5A. That's a ~66w energy dissipation that's occurring at that interface which means that the (2) 312 boards will require 66w more than they normally would to operate in that cct, so its very inefficient. It also means that the interface will need some heatsinking. If you decide you still want to go that route lmk. I'd recommend using a linear voltage regulator, something like the LM338 if you decide to go that way, but would ultimately recomend splitting them up. The lm338 will have to have additional parallel circuitry or a few wired in parallel to effectively manage the load through itself as well. Lol it can be done but it would require a bit of fine tuning and will cost 66w more to power the 312s at 200w than it normally would. It would take 266w to run 200w at the 312s using some sort of regulator.
^^^All the numbers I'm using are ballpark guesses (but should be fairly close) as there is still some ambiguity in the components, the 5.5A, the 66w, ect, that's why they have "~" in front of them. But a +/- here or there will still result in the same principle of action and explanation.

Adding in 12v supplemental strips might be nice. You could add in deep red or far red 12v strips and not waste any of the 66w on heat like if using the regulator. You could put that V drop to use lighting up red diodes instead of just expelling as heat in the regulator.

The 312s and 132s are going to be much easier. I'm not sure if anything will be required, but a low Ω POT wired in series with either set will mitigate any issues that come up if they do. You can adjust the 2 types of boards' V's with infinite variability using a POT, which means precision tuning. You'd just have to use your multimeter and adjust the POT to equalize the V's between the 2 types of boards.

Good luck lmk what you decide, I'll be checking in periodically. :bigjoint:
Did you see my post about the screws, and I’m going to keep it simple starting out. The most I might do is the 312 with 132. I only have 2 flowering areas and one is really small the 288s can go over that by themselves I’ll just hook up the pc fans. So it’s the bigger flowering area I have to choose if I’ll go straight 132s, a mix, or possibly just 312 with my big fan blowing up. Tempting me to veg out these gorilla mothers and just start out some new moms.
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Did you see my post about the screws, and I’m going to keep it simple starting out. The most I might do is the 312 with 132. I only have 2 flowering areas and one is really small the 288s can go over that by themselves I’ll just hook up the pc fans. So it’s the bigger flowering area I have to choose if I’ll go straight 132s, a mix, or possibly just 312 with my big fan blowing up. Tempting me to veg out these gorilla mothers and just start out some new moms.
Word. And ya about the screws, what are they for? I'd they are for the frame I'd get machine screws with nuts. Then I'd drill holes on the almunium frame. You don't want to drill holes though your boards. Id use machine screws with washers to hold your board in place, but you might want to add some sort of plastic in between the washer and board so you don't scrape the board enamel away and reveal live traces.

@Rocket Soul @Airwalker16 @wietefras @fragileassassin
^^ These guys are a good resource when it comes to that stuff, maybe they'll have some better insight..
 

budman410

Well-Known Member
Word. And ya about the screws, I'd get machine screws with nuts. Then I'd drill holes on the almunium frame. You don't want to drill holes though your boards. Id use machine screws with washers to hold your board in place, but you might want to add some sort of plastic in between the washer and board so you don't scrape the board enamel away and reveal live traces.

@Rocket Soul @Airwalker16 @wietefras @fragileassassin
^^ These guys are a good resource when it comes to that stuff, maybe they'll have some better insight..
It’s crazy all the research I’ve done and just glanced over the screws, well back to hitting that search button, I want atleast one fixture hung and ready tomorrow. My shipping was delayed so they are coming tomorrow
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
It’s crazy all the research I’ve done and just glanced over the screws, well back to hitting that search button, I want atleast one fixture hung and ready tomorrow. My shipping was delayed so they are coming tomorrow
Lol I know! On a side note, now I can see how much a search history really can tell about a persons activity or what they are likely to buy. The whole selling data thing always seemed far fetched but when you go back into your search history to try to find the website you were at yesterday, and as you're scolling through it all, its kinda eye opening lol A computer or internet browser history is really telling.. Ok side story over :bigjoint:
 

budman410

Well-Known Member
Lol I know! On a side note, now I can see how much a search history really can tell about a persons activity or what they are likely to buy. The whole selling data thing always seemed far fetched but when you go back into your search history to try to find the website you were at yesterday, and as you're scolling through it all, its kinda eye opening lol A computer or internet browser history is really telling.. Ok side story over :bigjoint:
The world is run by advertisement anything you search comes up as a ad on other platforms. I ended up just ordering more screws and some nylon washer only 10 dollars better safe then sorry. They split up my package into 2 orders so one did come today, another is coming tomorrow, and my 288s are coming wensday. If time allow I’ll start building the frame tomorrow. Soooo excited to get this project started.
Decided to put the 312 on the large heat sink and have the other 2 connected in parallel on their own heatsinks. Any suggestions on a larger driver that could run 8 pc fans
 
Last edited:

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
The world is run by advertisement anything you search comes up as a ad on other platforms. I ended up just ordering more screws and some nylon washer only 10 dollars better safe then sorry. They split up my package into 2 orders so one did come today, another is coming tomorrow, and my 288s are coming wensday. If time allow I’ll start building the frame tomorrow. Soooo excited to get this project started.
Decided to put the 312 on the large heat sink and have the other 2 connected in parallel on their own heatsinks. Any suggestions on a larger driver that could run 8 pc fans
Depends on what the fans are rated at?

I used 12v 2A drivers to power (8 ) 7×7cm 12v .125A fans. That way the driver is only working half power and doesn't heat up. I used a 1A driver to begin with but it got too hot. You want more driver than fan.:bigjoint:

Odds are they will be 12v fans, and a driver solution like this is pretty cheap (shipped from China)...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-2A-24W-Switching-Power-Supply-Driver-LED-Strip-Light-Display-AC-Brand/261482111348

And if you dont want to wait and would rather pay a few extra $$...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC110-220V-TO-DC-5-12-24V-Switch-Power-Supply-Driver-Transformer-For-LED-3D-PSU/312398997497

I just zip tied mine to my driver to keep it all 1 unit, I added multimeter too so I knew what was being pushed, 16ft extension cords are cheap and I like my drivers outside the area, I just cut the plug ends off so that when I wired it up I could plug & un-plug easily, 1 plug for fans, 1 plug for lights...
USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_MSGR_PHOTO_FOR_UPLOAD_1549944173609.jpg_1549944175839.jpeg
 
Top