Finally!!QB Build Thread

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
I could be wrong or looking at the wrong product but it looked like (12) 312s have the greater board real estate.

@budman410 im not sure if you'll need any extra sheeting for the 312s but would at least scope some out in case you do. The QB120s don't need any heatsinking at 70w, and your equivalent wattage density would put you at 51.83w to match the same threshold (although idk what the QB120 board thickness is). I'd watch them but I'm guessing you'll be fine.



EDIT:
These are the products I was referencing...

QB312...
28.4cm × 17.4cm = 497.64cm2
Screenshot_2019-04-10-01-13-14.png
497.64 × 12 = 5,971.68cm2 (12) QB312's

QB800...
(35.43in × 2.54cm/in) × (7.24in × 2.54 cm/in) = 1654.92cm2
Screenshot_2019-04-10-01-11-19~2.png
1654.92 × 3 = 4,964.76cm2 (3) QB800s
 
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Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
5 qbs are the same size as one fotop. I wouldnt run the fotop at 250 without heatsink. But the idea isnt bad, its just a little more work. If i had 12 qbs id group them with 2 drivers, corners and edges on one, middle on the other.
 

budman410

Well-Known Member
5 qbs are the same size as one fotop. I wouldnt run the fotop at 250 without heatsink. But the idea isnt bad, its just a little more work. If i had 12 qbs id group them with 2 drivers, corners and edges on one, middle on the other.
Why split between two drivers?
I thought they was the size of 3 qbs..My frame is exactly 4x4 and 12 qbs damn near fill up the whole space. When y’all say alum sheet, u mean slap any thick flat piece of alum for the boards
 
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Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Drivers: if you have the centre and the edges/corners on 2 sep drivers you can really dial in even cover.
For alu sheet: yeah, use 2-3mm inusually do a couple of inches more on the sides to get extra area.

The fotops are around 3x1 foot. Qbs are about 12"x 7" so 5 to a fotop in size.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
I could be wrong or looking at the wrong product but it looked like (12) 312s have the greater board real estate.

@budman410 im not sure if you'll need any extra sheeting for the 312s but would at least scope some out in case you do. The QB120s don't need any heatsinking at 70w, and your equivalent wattage density would put you at 51.83w to match the same threshold (although idk what the QB120 board thickness is). I'd watch them but I'm guessing you'll be fine.



EDIT:
These are the products I was referencing...

QB312...
28.4cm × 17.4cm = 497.64cm2
View attachment 4315047
497.64 × 12 = 5,971.68cm2 (12) QB312's

QB800...
(35.43in × 2.54cm/in) × (7.24in × 2.54 cm/in) = 1654.92cm2
View attachment 4315049
1654.92 × 3 = 4,964.76cm2 (3) QB800s
I got 1 fotop at 2520 cm2 using 90x28cm. 5 qbs in a row is as wide and long as a fotop.
 
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budman410

Well-Known Member
I got 1 fotop at 2520 cm2 using 90x28cm. 5 qbs in a row is as wide and long as a fotop.
I didn’t think of it that way, very interesting. The qbs would still have more diodes overall. I always mention full draw but after watching a couple vids about actual photo use by the plants, at some point it is a such thing as waste esp when comparing wattage to plant use of light. It’s just not efficient enough to be worth draining all those extra watts. I don’t see me maxing out my drivers. Because I do have fans and heat sinks for my 312 I’m going to try it with my table clones and run my 132 between 65-80 percent over the (flowering)moms and see if there is any significant difference. This little experiment is riddled with different variables. But I think my next order if things go well would be choosing between the 800 or 312. For optimum light coverage I think I would need 4 800s for a 4x4 esp for my tables thats side by side. I’m going to ask ole Rita if she can send me a sample 800
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
You will be hard pressed for space with 4 qb800 over a 4x4. Cant really see how they would fit and give even cover at the same time. Its already 12 square feet of board over 16 ft2. In that case maybe qb312 is better for you.

The one thing important for open space is to have your boards spread out and close to your (even) cannopy.
 

budman410

Well-Known Member
You will be hard pressed for space with 4 qb800 over a 4x4. Cant really see how they would fit and give even cover at the same time. Its already 12 square feet of board over 16 ft2. In that case maybe qb312 is better for you.

The one thing important for open space is to have your boards spread out and close to your (even) cannopy.
8 boards wired and attached to frame 4 more to go and the 800 is getting to already become a strong contender lol
 

budman410

Well-Known Member
I could be wrong or looking at the wrong product but it looked like (12) 312s have the greater board real estate.

@budman410 im not sure if you'll need any extra sheeting for the 312s but would at least scope some out in case you do. The QB120s don't need any heatsinking at 70w, and your equivalent wattage density would put you at 51.83w to match the same threshold (although idk what the QB120 board thickness is). I'd watch them but I'm guessing you'll be fine.



EDIT:
These are the products I was referencing...

QB312...
28.4cm × 17.4cm = 497.64cm2
View attachment 4315047
497.64 × 12 = 5,971.68cm2 (12) QB312's

QB800...
(35.43in × 2.54cm/in) × (7.24in × 2.54 cm/in) = 1654.92cm2
View attachment 4315049
1654.92 × 3 = 4,964.76cm2 (3) QB800s
Qbs are bright as fuck, I need to get a different small philips couldn’t adjust with the small one I have.(any suggestions) Stock setting is at max. Kill a watt measured 660w pulling out the wall. Overall board size makes sense why the Chinese boards run hotter. Smaller board then the 132 with double the diodes. I didn’t let it stay warm I wanted to dial it down and play it safe while I figure out the settings. But at cold start it showed 34v. I felt the heat but the intensity wasn’t a myth defiantly a lot less then those single or double bulb hps. The sheer size of the actual board of the 312 have me already leaning toward the 800 ofcourse plus all the wiring and individual board setup. The real hlg qbs are going to be my go to for all my veg needs. I have a couple pics of the 312 diodes
 

Attachments

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Qbs are bright as fuck, I need to get a different small philips couldn’t adjust with the small one I have.(any suggestions) Stock setting is at max. Kill a watt measured 660w pulling out the wall. Overall board size makes sense why the Chinese boards run hotter. Smaller board then the 132 with double the diodes. I didn’t let it stay warm I wanted to dial it down and play it safe while I figure out the settings. But at cold start it showed 34v. I felt the heat but the intensity wasn’t a myth defiantly a lot less then those single or double bulb hps. The sheer size of the actual board of the 312 have me already leaning toward the 800 ofcourse plus all the wiring and individual board setup. The real hlg qbs are going to be my go to for all my veg needs. I have a couple pics of the 312 diodes
Nice build, good work!

As far as a screwdriver, I just had a small enough one already, but I think you can pick one up at any Wal-Mart 24/7 for a few bucks.

When you say you wanted to wait and dial them down, and if referring to your (12) QB132 build, you don't have to worry, 50w per QB132 is completely fine. They are rated for up to 70w without needing sinking. :bigjoint:

Just fyi, most QBs have a higher chip density than QB132s regardless they come from China or not.

660w at the wall is actually about 625w at the boards, there's at least a ~5% effeciency drop at your driver. Once you get your small phillips screwdriver you can adjust brightness with the Io POT. Multiply your kilowatt reading by a factor of .95 to get an approximation of actual board watts.

*
The pic with the (3) 288s and the single 132, if thrown on the same driver the 132 is going to probably fail in not too short of time unless you put some sort of 11-12v drop before or after wiring the 132 in parallel with the 288s. I remember you saying that you'd throw the 288s on their own driver or something so I'm not sure if you're actually trying to throw them on same driver but figured I'd say something anyways.
 
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budman410

Well-Known Member
Nice build, good work!

As far as a screwdriver, I just had a small enough one already, but I think you can pick one up at any Wal-Mart 24/7 for a few bucks.

When you say you wanted to wait and dial them down, and if referring to your (12) QB132 build, you don't have to worry, 50w per QB132 is completely fine. They are rated for up to 70w without needing sinking. :bigjoint:

Just fyi, most QBs have a higher chip density than QB132s regardless they come from China or not.

660w at the wall is actually about 625w at the boards, there's at least a ~5% effeciency drop at your driver. Once you get your small phillips screwdriver you can adjust brightness with the Io POT. Multiply your kilowatt reading by a factor of .95 to get an approximation of actual board watts.

*
The pic with the (3) 288s and the single 132, if thrown on the same driver the 132 is going to probably fail in not too short of time unless you put some sort of 11-12v drop before or after wiring the 132 in parallel with the 288s. I remember you saying that you'd throw the 288s on their own driver or something so I'm not sure if you're actually trying to throw them on same driver but figured I'd say something anyways.
I have a tiny screwdriver, possibly too small. That pic of 3 boards one is 288,312,132 just a comparison pick
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
I have a tiny screwdriver, possibly too small. That pic of 3 boards one is 288,312,132 just a comparison pick
Word I'm talking about the 4× on the large heatsink when referring to the 132 & 288s, and HLG 288s, and 304s are same diode density as the Chinese ones you have in your comparison pic, the HLG 288s and 304s are tightly spaced diodes like the Chinese 288s and 312s.

Did your Chinese ones come with heatsinks? The 312s?
 

budman410

Well-Known Member
Word I'm talking about the 4× on the large heatsink when referring to the 132 & 288s, and HLG 288s, and 304s are same diode density as the Chinese ones you have in your comparison pic, the HLG 288s and 304s are tightly spaced diodes like the Chinese 288s and 312s.

Did your Chinese ones come with heatsinks? The 312s?
Yes it was optional cost 10 per heatsink. I was planning on taking off the 288s and putting the 312 on that big heatsink and add 2 312 with their single heatsink. The big heatsink is just thick alum and the single just have some fins
 

budman410

Well-Known Member
Word I'm talking about the 4× on the large heatsink when referring to the 132 & 288s, and HLG 288s, and 304s are same diode density as the Chinese ones you have in your comparison pic, the HLG 288s and 304s are tightly spaced diodes like the Chinese 288s and 312s.

Did your Chinese ones come with heatsinks? The 312s?
Thank you for all your help I’m about to hang them now after I dial them in, after that first fixture the other builds was a breeze. I decided to use the 312 for my 2nd veg and just kept the 288s on the heat sink. I have 600 hps so I’m going to set the flowering plants based off wattage. Around 350-400 watts and see if I get a similar yield. So in total I have 8 132v2 4K in my tent over a 3x3 coco clone moms, 4 288s over a 2x4 ebb&flow table of clones, 12 132 3500k over my flowering moms on a 4x4 frame and 6 312 over 5 from seed mothers in my second veg. So ready to hopefully retire my HPS till winter. Then I would probably use them to keep temps up. Throughout my research I’m getting really interested in cobs and strips. This build was a lot of fun. For my specialty strains that I don’t put on the table and keep in coco I’m thinking about trying a cob, strip combo. Maybe some 660m reds or Samsung strips maybe both. These coco plants would be trained and have longer veg so I would need deeper penetration. I usually only do 4-6 plants at a time like that so may be interesting to try.
 
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ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Thank you for all your help I’m about to hang them now after I dial them in, after that first fixture the other builds was a breeze. I decided to use the 312 for my 2nd veg and just kept the 288s on the heat sink. I have 600 hps so I’m going to set the flowering plants based off wattage. Around 350-400 watts and see if I get a similar yield. So in total I have 8 132v2 4K in my tent over a 3x3 coco clone moms, 4 288s over a 2x4 ebb&flow table of clones, 12 132 3500k over my flowering moms on a 4x4 frame and 6 312 over 5 from seed mothers in my second veg. So ready to hopefully retire my HPS till winter. Then I would probably use them to keep temps up. Throughout my research I’m getting really interested in cobs and strips. This build was a lot of fun. For my specialty strains that I don’t put on the table and keep in coco I’m thinking about trying a cob, strip combo. Maybe some 660m reds or Samsung strips maybe both. These coco plants would be trained and have longer veg so I would need deeper penetration. I usually only do 4-6 plants at a time like that so may be interesting to try.
That's fucking awesome man, sounds like you've got the hang of it pretty well! You'll see how bright they all are and make adjustments as needed and that's also part of the fun haha good work!

Adding reptile bulbs is the easiest most effective way to boost ur potency immediately (in my experience), I'd look into UV as well.
 

budman410

Well-Known Member
That's fucking awesome man, sounds like you've got the hang of it pretty well! You'll see how bright they all are and make adjustments as needed and that's also part of the fun haha good work!

Adding reptile bulbs is the easiest most effective way to boost ur potency immediately (in my experience), I'd look into UV as well.
Dialed down these lights are very soft, feels like it won’t equate at all to hps. The Chinese light has a more yellow look to them then the hlg..Should I dial them up to 500w from wall or just let the experiment do its thing. The spread is something that if I were to have them pull the same watts as my hps is still something to consider. Maybe that would be better for my comparison. Right now they are set at 420 watts from wall
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Dialed down these lights are very soft, feels like it won’t equate at all to hps. The Chinese light has a more yellow look to them then the hlg..Should I dial them up to 500w from wall or just let the experiment do its thing. The spread is something that if I were to have them pull the same watts as my hps is still something to consider. Maybe that would be better for my comparison. Right now they are set at 420 watts from wall
Which setup are you using for your HPS comparison and are they both the same sq ft?

The LED will have more total light, the HPS will have less total light but will be brighter right around the bulb than the LED because the LED is spread out.
 
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budman410

Well-Known Member
Which setup are you using for your HPS comparison and are they both the same sq ft?

The LED will have more total light, the HPS will have less total light but will be brighter right around the bulb than the LED because the LED is spread out.
I’m just going off past yield results with my open wing and closed reflector. Same strains, nutrient, table and cycle. It can be less but if there’s a great margin it wouldn’t be worth it. What makes this hard for me is I wouldn’t have a problem bumping the leds at 500w+ if it would yield similar because I mainly focus on sog style grows. The light spread with led is undeniable to better and at 500w+ it feels like a heavy hitter. Atp it does cycle back into my heat issue
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
I’m just going off past yield results with my open wing and closed reflector. Same strains, nutrient, table and cycle. It can be less but if there’s a great margin it wouldn’t be worth it. What makes this hard for me is I wouldn’t have a problem bumping the leds at 500w+ if it would yield similar because I mainly focus on sog style grows. The light spread with led is undeniable to better and at 500w+ it feels like a heavy hitter. Atp it does cycle back into my heat issue
HPS is around 1.9μmol/j maybe 2.0μmol/j

Your LED is probably closer to 2.2μmol/j+ maybe 2.4μmol/j . The difference is spectrum. LEDs are a little more effecient on the whole but because the SPD can be optimized its more effecient when it comes to yield. There are guys that hit 2g/w+, not me yet but working on a path to get there aha. So in that regard they dominate HPS in effeciency.
 
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