Yes but I wasn’t saying it get too hot like a hps but I assumed putting out high watts would generate an overall high temp.
The yellowish color light the Chinese lights put off what do that mean in regard to disfference from hlg
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The yellowish color light the Chinese lights put off what do that mean in regard to disfference from hlg
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Color temp, different cct.. Due to different chips, different voltages, different phosphor recipe possibly.. different phosphor thicknesses, it could be a combo of things.. Its not going to be that big of a difference
EDIT:
HLG QB132 = 2835 4000k
Chinese QB312 = 5630 LM561c 3000k
HLG QB288 = 3030 LM301b 3000k
I think I saw lm561c on the Chinese and lm301b on the HLG, but I'll go look..
(12) QB132 / (6) QB312 with 600h's:
If you want to be competitive with a 600w HPS, you want to run closer to 480w at the wall.
Even maxed at 600w those setups should be fine. The QB132s because of their chip density and large surface area, and the QB312s because of their heatsinks. The only thing that is going to heat up the room is the lights and drivers. So if the lights are cool you won't have to worry about heat except for at the drivers. My lights run around 110°-115°f @142w per QB304 (4 active fans ontop of heatsinks), my drivers have areas that are closer 125°f if I remember correctly. Its just a matter of where the waste energy is being expelled at. With lower temps like that I don't have to exhaust like a champ I can just easily control it. I had extra E27 in my area this time and those suckers got to 185°f+ so I personally had to exhaust more than most.
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Oh and I forgot...THESE WIRES!!!.. with the 12 board build it’s soo much. Idk how these strip and con guys keep up with all that shit. I would go with the 800 boards just to avoid all that wire management. I went ahead and bumped the mother plants up. Clones are still a little young in flower I think they are ok at that wattage for nowColor temp, different cct.. Due to different chips, different voltages, different phosphor recipe possibly.. different phosphor thicknesses, it could be a combo of things.. Its not going to be that big of a difference
EDIT:
HLG QB132 = 2835 4000k
Chinese QB312 = 5630 LM561c 3000k
HLG QB288 = 3030 LM301b 3000k
I think I saw lm561c on the Chinese and lm301b on the HLG, but I'll go look..
(12) QB132 / (6) QB312 with 600h's:
If you want to be competitive with a 600w HPS, you want to run closer to 480w at the wall.
Even maxed at 600w those setups should be fine. The QB132s because of their chip density and large surface area, and the QB312s because of their heatsinks. The only thing that is going to heat up the room is the lights and drivers. So if the lights are cool you won't have to worry about heat except for at the drivers. My lights run around 110°-115°f @142w per QB304 (4 active fans ontop of heatsinks), my drivers have areas that are closer 125°f if I remember correctly. Its just a matter of where the waste energy is being expelled at. With lower temps like that I don't have to exhaust like a champ I can just easily control it. I had extra E27 in my area this time and those suckers got to 185°f+ so I personally had to exhaust more than most.
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What do you think of using rapidled uv, red, ledsColor temp, different cct.. Due to different chips, different voltages, different phosphor recipe possibly.. different phosphor thicknesses, it could be a combo of things.. Its not going to be that big of a difference
EDIT:
HLG QB132 = 2835 4000k
Chinese QB312 = 5630 LM561c 3000k
HLG QB288 = 3030 LM301b 3000k
I think I saw lm561c on the Chinese and lm301b on the HLG, but I'll go look..
(12) QB132 / (6) QB312 with 600h's:
If you want to be competitive with a 600w HPS, you want to run closer to 480w at the wall.
Even maxed at 600w those setups should be fine. The QB132s because of their chip density and large surface area, and the QB312s because of their heatsinks. The only thing that is going to heat up the room is the lights and drivers. So if the lights are cool you won't have to worry about heat except for at the drivers. My lights run around 110°-115°f @142w per QB304 (4 active fans ontop of heatsinks), my drivers have areas that are closer 125°f if I remember correctly. Its just a matter of where the waste energy is being expelled at. With lower temps like that I don't have to exhaust like a champ I can just easily control it. I had extra E27 in my area this time and those suckers got to 185°f+ so I personally had to exhaust more than most.
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
I just quickly glanced at the starmounts to get an idea.
I'm all about SPD. Then all about how to efficiently achieve that SPD. Idk what UV chips they're using but at first glance looks like a nichia UV chip which is high quality. The XPE is a good red, though osram I think beats it, but XPE is probably second best ave very good. Samsung Lm351h are pretty good too.
I think SPD from 290-800 is beneficial. The question is at what intensities should the individual WV be at within that range. I'm just barely getting into SPD ratios and so not sure if my opinions are worth much in the ratio department. But I do definitely see value to adding both UVA as well as red and/or FR.
Heres a generic WV gif, not sure how applicable to MJ it is...
Hmmm ok for now ill just focus on getting something red(660) and far red(730). Ill pickup some uv bulbs locally. For the price prollly be be better off picking up a strip from cutter,arrow, or digikey.
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Ya I'm not sure how guys are mounting their single starmounts. I'd opt for strips red or FR strips personally for that reason. But for UV, reptile is so cheap and it works so well, that's what I do..
UVB150's are half the price of UVB200's. I use (4) 26w UVB150s (they have 13w too) per 16ft2 and hang about 10" above.
How can I find my the red spectrum strips on these sites very hard to navigate
That’s for the sub, learned a lot from that thread. I’m going to search around on digikey and arrow a little more but I think I may just got with cutter if they actually have their things Instock. They have a nice mix of wavelengths and price
What do you think of these, tho cutter has some that are the exact size I need these are 3ft. I’m getting some 800 boards so figure just throw them in the same order
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ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Id go cutter. The Chinese ones are good too, but cutter uses CREE I think which is going to be better than the epistars that the Chinese ones have most likely.
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Ya I tried lol
Yes dude and I had to get off that thread ASAP I start a new business venture Monday I will have even less time and he was literally breaking down how to make my own leds, I seen a vid of that earlier today and was really interested. Little Rita was charging more than I expected for those strips. I hope cutter shipping and time isn’t bad but I will see
TEKNIK
Well-Known Member
I just uploaded cutter test results, they were really fucking busy last week. I will try to do more tests when I can. Maybe ask them for a serious lead time, those Cree strips are really cheap and I know they are busy with making torch retrofits also, I saw thousands of them there.
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Haha ya that's what I'm doing, wish I had a pick and place machine lol..
https://www.rollitup.org/p/14814957/
Ya either one will give you red, but if cutter is same time or faster Id go that way. Although, idk what prices are.. That makes a diff to me lol
TEKNIK
Well-Known Member
It will depend on the bin you get also, that can change the price
Cmon man I don’t want to hear that
, I wanted to get these strips up before the last month of flower. Rita is charging 38, could get her down to 30 prolly, and 6 more leds 3ft strip..20 strips for 300 with cutter/13 a 2ft strip... what ratio of fr and red should I get? 50/50 or more red. I read past 3 weeks in flower stretch isn’t something to worry about with red. And far red turned on before the other lights speed up flowering time. But that would make me have to wire them to a different driver. 
...
TEKNIK
Well-Known Member
As far as I can tell the ratio is about 30% FR to 660nm. Noone has done enough research into this though. I'm not even sure that it should be 730nm or 720nm or 740nm. This spectrum covers it all just incaseCmon man I don’t want to hear that
TEKNIK
Well-Known Member
5730 660nm is rubbish, they can not use good leds in that package. I'm working on some good stuff for you guys but it takes time and alot of money to make sure it's done right.
A led or research either would be greatly appreciated