Perfect PH Advanced nutrient question

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
AN user for almost 20 years now and no plans to switch. DWC and soilless with RO water and never check pH.

I've done many DWC grows without changing nutes the whole grow with great results. pH pens don't read properly in it but people persist in trying to adjust it and screw it all up then blame the nutes.

I bought gallon jugs of the 3-part almost years ago for a total of $124. In a hydro store in Kelowna and not some discount place online. The GH 3-part was over $150 at the same store. It's those goofy supplements that cost too much money but I only use the Big Bud for flowering and Rhino Skin for a little silica. Got some Remo CalMag now and use a bit of Epsom salts. Those jugs and the 500g can of BB, ($80) with a liter of Rhino, ($45), will last me well over 5 years and grow me a shitload of pot.

Nutes are about 5% of my costs to grow pot. Electricity at almost 25¢/kwh is 90% of it. 5% for RO water and incidentals.

Checking pH wasn't all that much work before they made the pH Perfect but still another chore I'd rather not do. With DWC I would top up my tubs with RO every 3 days. Allow to mix for a bit then check ppm. Add enough of the nutes in the right ratio to bring the ppm back up to target and let that mix for a bit longer, (at least an hour), before checking pH. When you add fresh nutes it can take an hour or more before the pH stabilizes. Most guys check immediately and adjust pH then check later and it's moved again so tossing in more crap to fix their first mistake. My pH would move in a predictable fashion. At top up time it would be around 6.3 so I'd add a few drops of conc. sulfuric acid to bring it down to around 5.4. Three days later it would be back to 6.3. Plants loved it.

Since the change to pH Perfect technology I'd top up, check and adjust ppm then walk away.

I 'm not saying you can't grow just as well with GH or any of the other brands but AN was the only company that proclaimed from it's inception that they were making their nutes specifically to grow pot while GH and the rest denied all of us. For that reason alone, plus that they started down the road from where I lived in Abbotsford, BC, I'll keep using AN.

With GH being part of the unholy Scotts/Hawthorne/Mon$anto/Bayer mega-corp a buck for GH is a buck for Mon$atan!

If I win some MegaCrop in the Canadian contest I'll run a side-by-side against the AN and if it grows as well then I may stop buying the 3-part but I ain't growing without Big Bud unless they quit making it!

NewNutes.jpg
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
is that for AN ph perfect nutes or in general?
Got nothing to do with AN and I use CalMag almost every watering tho less than half what it says to use on the bottle as I use RO water only. The ProMix HP I use has lots of domolitic and calcitic lime already but in DWC I use more to compensate.

I've never heard of anyone else saying not to use it in flower before. More bro-science I think. ;)

:peace:
 

Hydro4life

Well-Known Member
AN user for almost 20 years now and no plans to switch. DWC and soilless with RO water and never check pH.

I've done many DWC grows without changing nutes the whole grow with great results. pH pens don't read properly in it but people persist in trying to adjust it and screw it all up then blame the nutes.

I bought gallon jugs of the 3-part almost years ago for a total of $124. In a hydro store in Kelowna and not some discount place online. The GH 3-part was over $150 at the same store. It's those goofy supplements that cost too much money but I only use the Big Bud for flowering and Rhino Skin for a little silica. Got some Remo CalMag now and use a bit of Epsom salts. Those jugs and the 500g can of BB, ($80) with a liter of Rhino, ($45), will last me well over 5 years and grow me a shitload of pot.

Nutes are about 5% of my costs to grow pot. Electricity at almost 25¢/kwh is 90% of it. 5% for RO water and incidentals.

Checking pH wasn't all that much work before they made the pH Perfect but still another chore I'd rather not do. With DWC I would top up my tubs with RO every 3 days. Allow to mix for a bit then check ppm. Add enough of the nutes in the right ratio to bring the ppm back up to target and let that mix for a bit longer, (at least an hour), before checking pH. When you add fresh nutes it can take an hour or more before the pH stabilizes. Most guys check immediately and adjust pH then check later and it's moved again so tossing in more crap to fix their first mistake. My pH would move in a predictable fashion. At top up time it would be around 6.3 so I'd add a few drops of conc. sulfuric acid to bring it down to around 5.4. Three days later it would be back to 6.3. Plants loved it.

Since the change to pH Perfect technology I'd top up, check and adjust ppm then walk away.

I 'm not saying you can't grow just as well with GH or any of the other brands but AN was the only company that proclaimed from it's inception that they were making their nutes specifically to grow pot while GH and the rest denied all of us. For that reason alone, plus that they started down the road from where I lived in Abbotsford, BC, I'll keep using AN.

With GH being part of the unholy Scotts/Hawthorne/Mon$anto/Bayer mega-corp a buck for GH is a buck for Mon$atan!

If I win some MegaCrop in the Canadian contest I'll run a side-by-side against the AN and if it grows as well then I may stop buying the 3-part but I ain't growing without Big Bud unless they quit making it!

View attachment 4326962
Amen to that brother!!
 

Hydro4life

Well-Known Member
You’re not supposed to add cal mag in flower, I don’t.
Who says that? Calcium and magnesium along with sulphur are secondary nutes. To me thats nearly going as far as to say you dont need any nitrogen in flower!? Calcium and magnesium dont just help your plant to grow big, they also help your plants to develop. For example, low magnesium will lower a plants ability to photosynthesise, if your not photosynthesising in flower properly then those buds wont develop to their full potential.
 

Hydro4life

Well-Known Member
That pic looks more like toxic salts buildup than low Ca to me but could be a combination of things that near the end.

:peace:
Didnt have a good look at it to be honest oldmeduser, just giving athomegrowing an example of why calmag is still needed during flowering. And from experience, some strains are cal/mag beasts!! Probably not the best example though lol.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Didnt have a good look at it to be honest oldmeduser, just giving athomegrowing an example of why calmag is still needed during flowering. And from experience, some strains are cal/mag beasts!! Probably not the best example though lol.
I never even had calmag for the first 6 or 7 years I was up here then kept hearing so much about how great it was so finally bought some. Don't really see any difference and never noticed anything I could have called low Ca even with RO in DWC. I did use Epsom salts fairly regular but no Ca in that. Made my own calcium nitrate with conc. nitric acid and marble chips but wasn't sure of the dosage. Used it up tho bit by bit.

I did a couple DWC runs where I logged the daily ppm drop in my tubs and noticed that the ppm would drop up to 5x faster during the stretch then go back to pre-flowering levels as the stretch came to an end. That means to me that giving the plants lots of everything for the stretch, including extra light, CO2 if you have it and any bloom boosters you plan to use gets the buds forming faster and a lot more bud sites pop up. After the stretch I've been feeding Lucas Formula style and allowing the ppm to slowly drop as the buds fatten up. Easy to get nute burn with our low RH and that seems to help prevent it.

:peace:
 

neckpod

Well-Known Member
You’re not supposed to add cal mag in flower, I don’t.[/QUOTE

I use calmag right through till about 2 weeks from harvest.. if your plants call for it use it imo..

The water out of the tap here is 37ppm so very clean and it needs the calmag..

It caused the ph to drop by over 1 in less than a day to 4.9 and the only way to counter it was ph up.. but the next day it was the same. believe me i like the nutrients but would prefer them not to be ph perfect and just have buffers like everyone else uses.. anyway i pull the same weight with canna but less work and stress plus its half the price..

Peace out and happy growing
 

neckpod

Well-Known Member
Who says that? Calcium and magnesium along with sulphur are secondary nutes. To me thats nearly going as far as to say you dont need any nitrogen in flower!? Calcium and magnesium dont just help your plant to grow big, they also help your plants to develop. For example, low magnesium will lower a plants ability to photosynthesise, if your not photosynthesising in flower properly then those buds wont develop to their full potential.
i use it till about 2 week before harvest so not a clue what hes on about either...
 

CikaBika

Well-Known Member
I have been using PH perfect for nearly 2 years now and i love it. My understanding is that it is chelated? and allows absorption of nutrients at a much wider ph range...? I have tried adding it to my tap water (ph of around 8.5!) and had no deficiencies or lockout. My ph initially went to 5.7 - 5.8 consistently and never ph'd up or down. From my experience plants do look and grow more vigorously with RO water. I have used both the connoisseur line and sensi line and didn't really notice much difference other than the price. I no longer bother with a PH pen. The only thing i would recommend is changing your res water around every 10 days (pretty standard stuff anyway) so you get a fresh supply of ph perfect nutes. I do add Cal/mag usually in flower but at like a quarter strength (strain dependant) as it will take your PPM up considerably and adds a bit of nitrogen to the mix. Personally i couldn't imagine having to adjust ph daily or every 2nd day again...... soooo much unecessary work lol. Thats just my experience. Hope it helps!!

How much with doses did you go??
I have high EC and PH tap water, and if I go even with 50% of strength I got nute burn,but If i go under 50% ph perfect dont work.
I have Mega Crop ver1, And I'm thinking of Usiing It as base nute and giving AN aditives with it..Whole hobbist line...
 

Hydro4life

Well-Known Member
I never even had calmag for the first 6 or 7 years I was up here then kept hearing so much about how great it was so finally bought some. Don't really see any difference and never noticed anything I could have called low Ca even with RO in DWC. I did use Epsom salts fairly regular but no Ca in that. Made my own calcium nitrate with conc. nitric acid and marble chips but wasn't sure of the dosage. Used it up tho bit by bit.

I did a couple DWC runs where I logged the daily ppm drop in my tubs and noticed that the ppm would drop up to 5x faster during the stretch then go back to pre-flowering levels as the stretch came to an end. That means to me that giving the plants lots of everything for the stretch, including extra light, CO2 if you have it and any bloom boosters you plan to use gets the buds forming faster and a lot more bud sites pop up. After the stretch I've been feeding Lucas Formula style and allowing the ppm to slowly drop as the buds fatten up. Easy to get nute burn with our low RH and that seems to help prevent it.

:peace:
Yes totally agree with you on the stretch! I have a co2 burner and find using it most beneficial during stretch and a couple of weeks into flower. Having plenty of light is crucial. Once i learnt to constantly Watch how the plants drink and adjusting temp and humidity to suit is where my yields went up substantially!!
 

Hydro4life

Well-Known Member
How much with doses did you go??
I have high EC and PH tap water, and if I go even with 50% of strength I got nute burn,but If i go under 50% ph perfect dont work.
I have Mega Crop ver1, And I'm thinking of Usiing It as base nute and giving AN aditives with it..Whole hobbist line...
With ppm you really need to read your plant/s. Some strains require more nutes than others (even different phenos of the same strain) also how young is the plant? Is it healthy? If you have a hot environment with low humidity then a healthy plant will drink more and take in more nutes so you need to reduce ppm in your water if this is the case. My tap water is high in ppm. Anywhere from 400 - 450! And i can give young clones a feed of 700 - 750ppm total, with no deficiencies. (As stated earlier they thrive better with distilled or RO water. Plus theres no chlorine to kill beneficial bacteria) have you tried using distilled or RO water for the 1st week or 2 of veg, then go back to your tap water? If you did it this way the plant/s would be able to handle a higher nute strength as it will be bigger and require more food.....
 

CikaBika

Well-Known Member
With ppm you really need to read your plant/s. Some strains require more nutes than others (even different phenos of the same strain) also how young is the plant? Is it healthy? If you have a hot environment with low humidity then a healthy plant will drink more and take in more nutes so you need to reduce ppm in your water if this is the case. My tap water is high in ppm. Anywhere from 400 - 450! And i can give young clones a feed of 700 - 750ppm total, with no deficiencies. (As stated earlier they thrive better with distilled or RO water. Plus theres no chlorine to kill beneficial bacteria) have you tried using distilled or RO water for the 1st week or 2 of veg, then go back to your tap water? If you did it this way the plant/s would be able to handle a higher nute strength as it will be bigger and require more food.....
I use pre ferts soil and grow autoflowers,so I'm good on just water until they start flowering...
wrote it wrong my last grow was sensitive even to 50% of nute strength..I always let my water sit at least 48hours with air stone in it..
 

Hydro4life

Well-Known Member
I use pre ferts soil and grow autoflowers,so I'm good on just water until they start flowering...
wrote it wrong my last grow was sensitive even to 50% of nute strength..I always let my water sit at least 48hours with air stone in it..
Yea some strains/phenos are. Did you try flushing out salt build up? May have been your issue?
 
Top