Prawn Connery
Well-Known Member
No heatsinks
119W to the board
One question I get asked a lot is when to use heatsinks and when can growers get away with not using them. Well, I use heatsinks whenever I can to reduce heat and increase efficiency. But I have the luxury of having a bunch of heatsinks at hand . . .
When designing the board, we wanted it to be able to run at a decent wattage without heatsinks to give growers the option. Temperature testing gave us the following results:
At 120W (2.485A)
15C ambient = 47C at the board, and 49C at the solder junction = a rise of 32-34C
At 144W (3A)
14C ambient = 50C at the board, and 52C at the solder junction = a rise of 36-38C
With a fan blowing on the board, the temperature abruptly fell from 50C to 27C
From 15C ambient - to 47C at 120W with no heatsink - a rise of 32C
47C is 116F
A small fan blowing on the board reduced temps by almost half! 50C down to 27C
Probably the easiest way to answer the question then is to state that these boards can run up to 150W without heatsinks . . . But it really depends on the environment: how hot your grow room is, what sort of efficiency you want, and how long you want your LEDs to last.
With good thermal management (heatsinks with active cooling), LEDs can run way over their maximum current ratings for long periods of time. However, the LED manufacturers warranty their specs, and those specs will be exceeded if these boards are run at more than 225W.
Maximum current ratings are also governed by temperature. At 70C ambient temperature, the maximum allowable forward current decreases to less than half current (about 1.9A per board) at 100C.
Same goes for the solder junction where the LED is attached to the board: the maximum allowable current is "0" (zero) at 100C.
Can you drive your LEDs higher than this at higher temperatures? Yes. At the risk of burning them out.
For this reason, we suggest you don't let the boards or solder junction exceed 70C.
119W to the board
One question I get asked a lot is when to use heatsinks and when can growers get away with not using them. Well, I use heatsinks whenever I can to reduce heat and increase efficiency. But I have the luxury of having a bunch of heatsinks at hand . . .
When designing the board, we wanted it to be able to run at a decent wattage without heatsinks to give growers the option. Temperature testing gave us the following results:
At 120W (2.485A)
15C ambient = 47C at the board, and 49C at the solder junction = a rise of 32-34C
At 144W (3A)
14C ambient = 50C at the board, and 52C at the solder junction = a rise of 36-38C
With a fan blowing on the board, the temperature abruptly fell from 50C to 27C
From 15C ambient - to 47C at 120W with no heatsink - a rise of 32C
47C is 116F
A small fan blowing on the board reduced temps by almost half! 50C down to 27C
Probably the easiest way to answer the question then is to state that these boards can run up to 150W without heatsinks . . . But it really depends on the environment: how hot your grow room is, what sort of efficiency you want, and how long you want your LEDs to last.
With good thermal management (heatsinks with active cooling), LEDs can run way over their maximum current ratings for long periods of time. However, the LED manufacturers warranty their specs, and those specs will be exceeded if these boards are run at more than 225W.
Maximum current ratings are also governed by temperature. At 70C ambient temperature, the maximum allowable forward current decreases to less than half current (about 1.9A per board) at 100C.
Same goes for the solder junction where the LED is attached to the board: the maximum allowable current is "0" (zero) at 100C.
Can you drive your LEDs higher than this at higher temperatures? Yes. At the risk of burning them out.
For this reason, we suggest you don't let the boards or solder junction exceed 70C.
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