High Light efficiency tests (TEKNIK) - 2.47 umol/j CRI 94.2

Randomblame said:
Yeah, they have only two input wires but the case is grounded so you only need to ground the fixture if you want. But they also have short circuit protection and switch off as soon as there is a lose wire touching the fixture or so.

That's below is one of two ELG-200-48B, 48v/4,16A so it drives 2 boards in parallel and each board gets maybe up to 2,25A in real(108% current). But the circuit is limited to 48v so I can not say if the boards will eat that much current. I've a pretty good heat-sink too which means lower temps compared to no heat sink and therefor a slightly higher voltage. I'm pretty sure to get at least 2 amps per board all other is a plus I've not expected to get. The circuit voltage tolerance is ±2% so its possible.
I'll see how much they draw when warmed up cuz I have the same AV meters like Or_Gro to display circuit voltage, current and watts of each fixture not just wall watts.

View attachment 4336341
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The build begins?
 
Or_Gro said:
The build begins?
Click to expand...


Yeah, more and more parts have arrived last week and I've already cleaned up my work space this weekend. Still waiting for the bigger, colored U-profiles I'll use as driver cases. These profiles are used as case lids and they come exactly bent and cut how I need them.
Tomorrow I'll finally start making the heat sinks, drill and tap holes, aso.
That's the hardest part and as soon as they are ready I can start assembling the lights.
 
Prawn Connery said:
We're all on 230V here, so the ELGs work to full capacity. Only the earth wire is missing - is that correct?
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Randomblame said:
Yeah, they have only two input wires but the case is grounded so you only need to ground the fixture if you want. But they also have short circuit protection and switch off as soon as there is a lose wire touching the fixture or so.

That's below is one of two ELG-200-48B, 48v/4,16A so it drives 2 boards in parallel and each board gets maybe up to 2,25A in real(108% current). But the circuit is limited to 48v so I can not say if the boards will eat that much current. I've a pretty good heat-sink too which means lower temps compared to no heat sink and therefor a slightly higher voltage. I'm pretty sure to get at least 2 amps per board all other is a plus I've not expected to get. The circuit voltage tolerance is ±2% so its possible.
I'll see how much they draw when warmed up cuz I have the same AV meters like Or_Gro to display circuit voltage, current and watts of each fixture not just wall watts.

View attachment 4336341
Click to expand...
Guys, the white and black wires on a 240V source are the two legs and the neutral third wire is the ground. It's supposed to connect to the (one and only) green grounding screw at the main panel.
 
Randomblame said:
Yeah, more and more parts have arrived last week and I've already cleaned up my work space this weekend. Still waiting for the bigger, colored U-profiles I'll use as driver cases. These profiles are used as case lids and they come exactly bent and cut how I need them.
Tomorrow I'll finally start making the heat sinks, drill and tap holes, aso.
That's the hardest part and as soon as they are ready I can start assembling the lights.
Click to expand...
I'm curious about the U-profiles being used as case lids? A pic or diagram to help my feeble mind?
 
Yeah, I've also searched a long time to find them. It always takes a few days until they ship the profiles because they make them exactly like you want them. But normally you'll get them within 2 weeks, sometimes earlier. Prices are also okay as long as you don't use anodised 2mm alli! I've used it one time but you see every little fingerprint, RAL colors are much better, cheaper and always look the same. Much easier to keep them clean...

Its a german online shop and they have a config tool you simply write the numbers in you want. They offer 1, 1,5, 2 and 3mm natural, anodized(eloxiert) or RAL colour coared alu sheets bent to what ever form you want. They also have steel, copper and other materials in the list.

Thats the U-profile configurator below. But try it with different thickness, 2mm is sometimes cheaper like 1,5mm thickness for some unknown reason. For relatively small housings 1mm is enough.
I like the white or anthracit RAL coatings. Looks pretty nice and is durable like paint. They should ship within the EU zone it only leads to slightly higher shipping costs.
You need to chose material and thickness first from the dropdown menus(upper right side) then enter A, B and C numbers below, then length and then chose which side you want to look at/ be color coated (for instance outside or inside).
It calculates on the fly and the price is shown in the lower left side below the picture of your profile.
Its actually pretty easy..

https://bleche-nach-mass.de/kanttei...3kGiVtir8nGie1gAnu_u8adlThoClDbw_wcB#001-0286


That's the driver case of my last fixture.

Base plate with driver, Sonoff, daisychain, meter aso. ...
intern. wiring+daisy chain 4 UVB bulbs & far-red trigger.jpg

... and the anthracit lid with AV-meter, dimmer and Sonoff reset hole on top.

black remote driver case with AV meter and Sonoff timer.jpg
 
Frank Cannon said:
Oh dear, Vesuvius is gonna be outdated already.... Random - seriously she will kill me (maybe I should block your posts so i don't get anymore Sergeant Schultz ideas:dunce:)
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Yepp, sir! You can call me hauptmann Schultz! You know, I'm like popey just with sauerkraut and bockworst.. I shit out ideas all day long... at least when I get enough sauerkraut, lol!



Psst, don't tell anyone!
I've won the party cup comp just because feeding my girl a spoon of extra sauerkraut juice every day.
 
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