UV Suppliment Lighting

oldbeancounter

oldbeancounter

Well-Known Member
Chunky Stool said:
I use 1/4 tsp per gallon.
How often depends on the nutes I'm already running.
There for a while I was running Mills basis A/B, Floralicious plus, and K2SO4. Should have ended up being around 6-4-8 NPK.
Worked great in veg.
Now I'm experimenting with double micros in soilless mediums... :leaf::twisted::leaf:
Click to expand...
@Chunky Stool
Floralicious plus
seems to be the flagship of that brand.
Used it long, before last grow etc?
I think I will try it at some point but light parts come first lol
I dumped ton off spores or whatever they are called to beef up the promix HP and the pots that I did not you can tell in that case more is better at least for me.
 
oldbeancounter

oldbeancounter

Well-Known Member
Moflow said:
https://www.led-tech.de/en
Click to expand...
@Moflow
I have 600 watts of
LED
MODULE
LT-QB22A
5000K STRIP
samsung 4 foot strips(14 total)

I plan on that covering about 5 by 5 foot plus with these.

I have 4 extra heatsinks 48 inches by one inch wide(plan to use 44 inches rest goes to framing overlap).
This will be on a separate driver so I can select any wattage or volts right now I am thinking 100 watts should do it or 25 watts pr 48 inch strip are there strips there like that I couldn't find anything, can be several strips to make one 44 inches or bit less?
https://www.heatsinkusa.com/1-000/
any idea if any strips i can use to make them with i prefer good diodes but for this purpose i know the Lm per watt drops for red which is making it hard to know what is good and what is not is this makes any sense.
There are so many options and I have no idea what i am looking for lol
have you built with their reds single LED's or red LED strips if so may I ask what?
I will say the strips samsung(digi)
sent me are paper thin, very nice indeed.
Cant wait to light em up if I can just figure out how to do it lol
 
mauricem00

mauricem00

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Yeah, coolwhite bulbs have much more UVA below 6" distance. But it dissapears pretty fast further away and at the typical hanging height there is almost no UVA left, just a coolwhite daylight.
Click to expand...
uva spreads at the same rate as visible light. the inverse square law only apply s in open space. in a tent once the footprint is equal to the size of the tent then the tent acts as a wave guide beyond that point light follows the same laws of physics as any other wave. a T5 may only penetrate 24 inches below the canopy but the SPD including percentage of UVA does not change
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
oldbeancounter said:
That sounds interesting, how does one run double mictos in soiless?
What are the benefits and pitfalls(if any)?
I had actually just added magnesium, foilure sprayed about 200 PPM and also tablespoon per gallon between a few plants(not pot) to RO water just before those plants light on.
Will hit the sleeping ladies when they get up with epson salt just at light on.

I see they have the R-zilla desert Serires 50 here in T-8, price though wow
https://www.amazon.ca/Zilla-11943-24-Inch-Fluorescent-17-Watt/dp/B000QFQ55I
Click to expand...

That's the T8, the bulbs in the graph is a T5 tube. T5 is much stronger and does not flicker compared to T8.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
mauricem00 said:
uva spreads at the same rate as visible light. the inverse square law only apply s in open space. in a tent once the footprint is equal to the size of the tent then the tent acts as a wave guide beyond that point light follows the same laws of physics as any other wave. a T5 may only penetrate 24 inches below the canopy but the SPD including percentage of UVA does not change
Click to expand...
Yeah, I know, bro!
To reflect UV light it needs a metallic surface, plastic tent walls do not reflect it. Plastic absorbs it same like normal glass, clothes, aso. Even if its only a thin layer above a mylar foil or a glass coating on the reflector metal like on an adjust-a-wing.
So inside a tent it dissapears faster because of less reflection.
But you are right in a free space it behaves like normal light but if you look in a bulb from 6" or from 30" distance makes a big difference, no? At 30" the amount of UV hitting your eyes is much lower(same like the visible light) because its spread out much more. From a certain distance its not dangerous anymore even if the percentage is still the same.
 
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Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
mr. childs said:
thats why i still use my 4 year old pure uv bulbs, they cant possibly do that much damage, ...or can they ?
Click to expand...

Yeah, less UVB intensity - less damage. But reptile bulbs have no unnatural UVB. Their spectrum ends at ~290nm same as natural sunlight. Even in 3000m height the ozon layer filters all UV light below this range.
290nm is enough to hit the UVR8 receptor it only takes longer to split it and cause the reaction.

In case of the Agromax bulbs I would say older bulbs are even better for us to work with. The UVA output remains almost the same over its life time, only the UVB output gets lower pretty fast. And the more UVB gets lost the more the UVB to UVA ratio shifts in the direction of a natural ratio. The 3:1 ratio of a new bulb is much too high a far from being natural but this ratio is important because UVB and UVA work somehow hand in hand.
In reptile skin the higher UVB and A wavelength keep the vitamin D production in a healthy range and prevents the skin. One could say it has a regulation effect. For plants the ratio is also inportant and more UVB like UVA would cause more cell damage. That makes the Agromax bulbs so much more dangerous compared to the Solacure bulbs. They both are really strong but the Solacure cause much less damage and can be used for up to 2h with 24". That's not possible with the Agromax bulbs. I've tried it and have burned my girls their asses off in only 2 days.
Shit is, I've bought six of them, 4 are still unused and the other two are maybe 120h old...
I'll try sell them. Maybe someone else is interested to figure out a way to use them. Maybe a mesh filter like used for reptiles can lower the amount of UVB to shift that spectrum in a more natural range.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
oldbeancounter said:
@Moflow
I have 600 watts of
LED
MODULE
LT-QB22A
5000K STRIP
samsung 4 foot strips(14 total)

I plan on that covering about 5 by 5 foot plus with these.

I have 4 extra heatsinks 48 inches by one inch wide(plan to use 44 inches rest goes to framing overlap).
This will be on a separate driver so I can select any wattage or volts right now I am thinking 100 watts should do it or 25 watts pr 48 inch strip are there strips there like that I couldn't find anything, can be several strips to make one 44 inches or bit less?
https://www.heatsinkusa.com/1-000/
any idea if any strips i can use to make them with i prefer good diodes but for this purpose i know the Lm per watt drops for red which is making it hard to know what is good and what is not is this makes any sense.
There are so many options and I have no idea what i am looking for lol
have you built with their reds single LED's or red LED strips if so may I ask what?
I will say the strips samsung(digi)
sent me are paper thin, very nice indeed.
Cant wait to light em up if I can just figure out how to do it lol
Click to expand...

Yeah, email them or use the chat window that pops up automaticly on the right side. Tell them you want Osram Oslon Square in hyper red or simply use the blue/deepred mix(2:8 diodes), seems the have them already. 3550mW vs 4300mW at 350mA is a big difference and probably not only because they have changed two hyperred diodes against blue ones, even if blue has a slightly higher voltage.
Oslon Square is Osram's newest version and much more efficient like the older Oslon SSL120's. They have the same 120° beam but they are based on a dual chip die.
Costs are the same, no worry, they both start at 2,80€ mounted one a 10mm squared PCB and the plug and play version with solderless connectors cost 4€.
They also do custom designs but it depends on how much strips you want. They do it probably not for only 1 or 2 strips...
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Moflow said:
I went and checked the hut plants leaves there for ya.
26.9°C...... but, I've added reds, ir in there.
I'll check the white led tent shortly.
Right , checked that tent, the light consists of 5 x 2ft Samsung Hinflux lm301b diodes, no added reds, running at 100 watts. Light is on 24hrs at moment. 400 umols at canopy.
I dunno the tent temperature but the leaf temperature was 19.7°C....... lol
Now some people might baulk at the idea of growing in cold temperatures but I don't have any problems. :bigjoint:
I might invest in a few red strips in the tent for winter this time. De tech has them.
I'll try n get a run over to the uv room this week to take temps.
Click to expand...
My plants starved in such cold conditions but that may also have had something to do with 37.5W/ft² of 56% efficient LED light I was running at the time.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Yeah, less UVB intensity - less damage. But reptile bulbs have no unnatural UVB. Their spectrum ends at ~290nm same as natural sunlight. Even in 3000m height the ozon layer filters all UV light below this range.
290nm is enough to hit the UVR8 receptor it only takes longer to split it and cause the reaction.

In case of the Agromax bulbs I would say older bulbs are even better for us to work with. The UVA output remains almost the same over its life time, only the UVB output gets lower pretty fast. And the more UVB gets lost the more the UVB to UVA ratio shifts in the direction of a natural ratio. The 3:1 ratio of a new bulb is much too high a far from being natural but this ratio is important because UVB and UVA work somehow hand in hand.
In reptile skin the higher UVB and A wavelength keep the vitamin D production in a healthy range and prevents the skin. One could say it has a regulation effect. For plants the ratio is also inportant and more UVB like UVA would cause more cell damage. That makes the Agromax bulbs so much more dangerous compared to the Solacure bulbs. They both are really strong but the Solacure cause much less damage and can be used for up to 2h with 24". That's not possible with the Agromax bulbs. I've tried it and have burned my girls their asses off in only 2 days.
Shit is, I've bought six of them, 4 are still unused and the other two are maybe 120h old...
I'll try sell them. Maybe someone else is interested to figure out a way to use them. Maybe a mesh filter like used for reptiles can lower the amount of UVB to shift that spectrum in a more natural range.
Click to expand...
PM me and maybe we can work something out.
 
oldbeancounter

oldbeancounter

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Yeah, email them or use the chat window that pops up automaticly on the right side. Tell them you want Osram Oslon Square in hyper red or simply use the blue/deepred mix(2:8 diodes), seems the have them already. 3550mW vs 4300mW at 350mA is a big difference and probably not only because they have changed two hyperred diodes against blue ones, even if blue has a slightly higher voltage.
Oslon Square is Osram's newest version and much more efficient like the older Oslon SSL120's. They have the same 120° beam but they are based on a dual chip die.
Costs are the same, no worry, they both start at 2,80€ mounted one a 10mm squared PCB and the plug and play version with solderless connectors cost 4€.
They also do custom designs but it depends on how much strips you want. They do it probably not for only 1 or 2 strips...
Click to expand...
@Randomblame
thanks
Randomblame said:
Yeah, email them or use the chat window that pops up automaticly on the right side. Tell them you want Osram Oslon Square in hyper red or simply use the blue/deepred mix(2:8 diodes), seems the have them already. 3550mW vs 4300mW at 350mA is a big difference and probably not only because they have changed two hyperred diodes against blue ones, even if blue has a slightly higher voltage.
Oslon Square is Osram's newest version and much more efficient like the older Oslon SSL120's. They have the same 120° beam but they are based on a dual chip die.
Costs are the same, no worry, they both start at 2,80€ mounted one a 10mm squared PCB and the plug and play version with solderless connectors cost 4€.
They also do custom designs but it depends on how much strips you want. They do it probably not for only 1 or 2 strips...
Click to expand...
@Randomblame
is this the one you were referring too when you said "blue/deepred mix(2:8 diodes)"
https://www.led-tech.de/en/50cm-Osram-SSL-Horticulture-Hyper-Red-Plug-and-Grow-Stripe
or
https://www.led-tech.de/en/Horticulture-Plug-and-Grow-Special-Offer-Set-Hyper-Red-Deep-Blue (my pick)
https://www.led-tech.de/en/SYSTEM250-Square-Hyper-Red-KIT

https://www.led-tech.de/en/Osram-OSLON-Square-hyper-red-Plug-and-Light-Star-Horticulture

I think first link is not the OSLON-Square , unless there is another one I missed but if it works ok and suits my need need not be latest chip unless they are that much better.

I have an email ready to send to them I just am trying to figure out what to ask is all thanks so much for your help this is quite hard for me to understand but getting there. The strips I already got you had recommended are great thanks hopefully heat sinks come today so I can order parts to make two frames for lights.
this one seems to tick all the boxes?
can add blue separately if needed, i cant see any with blue and new red square on a strip. is this the right chip in this link?
https://www.led-tech.de/en/SYSTEM250-Square-Hyper-Red-KIT

I did try their chat a few times wont work so I will read some more and email them if I can get my head around new chips.
 
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Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
PM me and maybe we can work something out.
Click to expand...
Moflow said:
The most travelled uv tubes. From USA to Europe...... then back to USA! :lol:
Click to expand...
ttystikk said:
Well when you put it that way, maybe it doesn't make sense.

Besides, I'd be too jealous!
Click to expand...
LMFAO, probably the most expensive bulbs ever, lol! Maybe I can ship the in the other direction so they came at least one time around the world.
Better take a few Solacure T8's or wait for the T5's.. Much less difficult to work with cuz they have a natural ratio.
If I had known that the UVB to A ratio is so important I would not have bought these Agromax bulbs.
 
Chunky Stool

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
LMFAO, probably the most expensive bulbs ever, lol! Maybe I can ship the in the other direction so they came at least one time around the world.
Better take a few Solacure T8's or wait for the T5's.. Much less difficult to work with cuz they have a natural ratio.
If I had known that the UVB to A ratio is so important I would not have bought these Agromax bulbs.
Click to expand...
Isn't UVA the same as "black light"? Lots of cheap options for adding more...
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
oldbeancounter said:
@Randomblame
thanks

@Randomblame
is this the one you were referring too when you said "blue/deepred mix(2:8 diodes)"
https://www.led-tech.de/en/50cm-Osram-SSL-Horticulture-Hyper-Red-Plug-and-Grow-Stripe
or
https://www.led-tech.de/en/Horticulture-Plug-and-Grow-Special-Offer-Set-Hyper-Red-Deep-Blue (my pick)
https://www.led-tech.de/en/Osram-OSLON-Square-hyper-red-on-SYSTEM-Slider
or
https://www.led-tech.de/en/Osram-OSLON-Square-hyper-red-Plug-and-Light-Star-Horticulture

I think first link is not the OSLON-Square , unless there is another one I missed but if it works ok and suits my need need not be latest chip unless they are that much better.

I have an email ready to send to them I just am trying to figure out what to ask is all thanks so much for your help this is quite hard for me to understand but getting there. The strips I already got you had recommended are great thanks hopefully heat sinks come today so I can order parts to make two frames for lights.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's what I've mentioned. You want the Square series diodes soldered on strips.
The hyper-red/blue mix could already have the Square series because of the high difference but with no guarantee. Better contact them and ask them directly if they have strips with Osram Square. If not, ask them if they can do a certain amount of strips for you. They have own pick and place bots and its not a problem for them. They a very customer friendly.
They have created most of the grow modules they have because of customer wishes and then started to make own boards and strips with LM301b too. Before the LM301b came out they have just sold Nichia and Osram diodes but none of them was especially for growing. They only strips were 4" long with 6 deepreds or blue.
They profit a lot from the current situation on the LED market and can sell their LM301b strips at almost half the cost of a comparable H-influx L06 strips from Samsung and they use a better binning too.
 
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