DIY with Quantum Boards

[daveybc]

If you want to splice into the ground wire on the AC side of the driver, that can be done. For me I wouldn't do that. I prefer a direct termination that is solid for the AC side. Like
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-515PR-Straight-Blade-Rubber/dp/B000FKBZ7M
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-Connector-LLT-USA-L20-IP67-3-Pin-Screw-Terminal-Cable-field-assembly-/252609964438

Also reference HLG website.
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/pages/qb-optics-and-connectors

I assume you would be screwing the driver/s to something so pick up a grounding lug/s and connect it to the actual driver. Use the screw that holds to driver to wall, run a ground wire from there to the heat sinks with another ground lug ( scratch ( a little ) the anodized heat sink surface with sand paper to ensure good ground to lug ). Loop the wire to the next heatsink. If your heat sinks are connected to a common frame. The frame can be grounded instead. I would also scratch the anodized heat sinks a little near the bolt that would connect to a frame to ensure a good ground. Good luck with your project.

PS keep your drivers spaced apart for airflow. If your drivers are hot to handle rig a small fan for airflow. Use solid wire to connect to Molex on board. Stranded or solid can run back to the driver.

How best do I ground
I have plenty of proper wire high heat etc
On frame going to where?
Copper piping on hot water rads they are 2 inch.
20 AMP GFI is available as dedicated.
I feel the rest I am ok with
I do have other lights
but drivers are all on-board
I don't want 40 lbs of drivers kicking out heat in tent.
Can you explain
And also why are your light strips never in stock lol?
I have the right person is that correct?
Thanks for stopping in to warm me.
It is what decent people do.

 

[oldbeancounter]

If you want to splice into the ground wire on the AC side of the driver, that can be done. For me I wouldn't do that. I prefer a direct termination that is solid for the AC side. Like
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-515PR-Straight-Blade-Rubber/dp/B000FKBZ7M
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-Connector-LLT-USA-L20-IP67-3-Pin-Screw-Terminal-Cable-field-assembly-/252609964438

Also reference HLG website.
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/pages/qb-optics-and-connectors

I assume you would be screwing the driver/s to something so pick up a grounding lug/s and connect it to the actual driver. Use the screw that holds to driver to wall, run a ground wire from there to the heat sinks with another ground lug ( scratch ( a little ) the anodized heat sink surface with sand paper to ensure good ground to lug ). Loop the wire to the next heatsink. If your heat sinks are connected to a common frame. The frame can be grounded instead. I would also scratch the anodized heat sinks a little near the bolt that would connect to a frame to ensure a good ground. Good luck with your project.

PS keep your drivers spaced apart for airflow. If your drivers are hot to handle rig a small fan for airflow. Use solid wire to connect to Molex on board. Stranded or solid can run back to the driver.

Thanks so much
I have 3 prong kit and 12 AWG wire 600 volt wire to ground and wire DC side to driver with 10 AWG stranded to GFI outlet from short distance ( 2 feet ) to plug.

I am planning to mount them just outside tent in front of room AC on a metal cooking oven rack then mounting that vertically against wall sturdy where it is dry and cold.
Have 18 AWG 300 volt 105c solid for wiring boards.
All frame-heatsink are aluminium so it is all ground-able.
attached is rough idea what it is I am making.
I appear to have no way to post camera pics from cell yet but will try and fix that
Every bit of help , helps
thanks!

 

[2com]

Yup use these all the time..
https://www.amazon.com/Amass-Female-Bullet-Connectors-Battery/dp/B06ZY34369/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=xt90&qid=1557817808&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Thanks for this suggestion.

 

[2com]

https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Plastics-waterproof-connctor-Applicable/dp/B01LCV97AY/ref=sr_1_14?crid=1MW5U1HYYIDOM&keywords=two+pin+connector&qid=1558635889&s=gateway&sprefix=two+pin+connce,aps,183&sr=8-14

I use these for quick disconnect

Hey,

I picked up some of those for the driver output to fixture/boards input connection too. But they're rated only for 6A. So I ended up not using them (for a parallel 2 x QB96 fixture) because the HLG-320H-54 does ~6A, so there's no overhead for these connectors. Know what I mean?
What build were you able to use them for? I searched long for the best quick connect/disconnect options that were affordable (enough to need either 2 or 4 per two board fixture).

EDIT: If I could find these with a higher V/A rating I'd use'em.

Thanks.

 

[2com]

If you want to splice into the ground wire on the AC side of the driver, that can be done. For me I wouldn't do that. I prefer a direct termination that is solid for the AC side. Like
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-515PR-Straight-Blade-Rubber/dp/B000FKBZ7M
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-Connector-LLT-USA-L20-IP67-3-Pin-Screw-Terminal-Cable-field-assembly-/252609964438

Also reference HLG website.
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/pages/qb-optics-and-connectors

I assume you would be screwing the driver/s to something so pick up a grounding lug/s and connect it to the actual driver. Use the screw that holds to driver to wall, run a ground wire from there to the heat sinks with another ground lug ( scratch ( a little ) the anodized heat sink surface with sand paper to ensure good ground to lug ). Loop the wire to the next heatsink. If your heat sinks are connected to a common frame. The frame can be grounded instead. I would also scratch the anodized heat sinks a little near the bolt that would connect to a frame to ensure a good ground. Good luck with your project.

PS keep your drivers spaced apart for airflow. If your drivers are hot to handle rig a small fan for airflow. Use solid wire to connect to Molex on board. Stranded or solid can run back to the driver.

Yea, I agree with this.

It's been asked, with good reason, and Stephen has talked about it a few times. But the answer(s) kinda change.
It was "You don't need to ground the fixture" at first.

But yea, theres a ground wire from the AC (wall) to the driver. The driver output (DC) doesn't have a ground wire. But you can just run one from the drivers' case the the fixture/heatsink. Literally just run a wire (connect) from the driver to the fixture.
Again, I've heard the company owner(s) saying "you don't need to ground the fixture" several times. I'm also aware they have UL and ETL listed prebuilt fixtures now and that the only way they were able to get certified was to ground the fixture *despite* their attempts to explain (either or both) why it wasn't "necessary" and/or other UL/ETL listed lights didn't have to.
Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[Stephenj37826]

Yea, I agree with this.

It's been asked, with good reason, and Stephen has talked about it a few times. But the answer(s) kinda change.
It was "You don't need to ground the fixture" at first.

But yea, theres a ground wire from the AC (wall) to the driver. The driver output (DC) doesn't have a ground wire. But you can just run one from the drivers' case the the fixture/heatsink. Literally just run a wire (connect) from the driver to the fixture.
Again, I've heard the company owner(s) saying "you don't need to ground the fixture" several times. I'm also aware they have UL and ETL listed prebuilt fixtures now and that the only way they were able to get certified was to ground the fixture *despite* their attempts to explain (either or both) why it wasn't "necessary" and/or other UL/ETL listed lights didn't have to.
Correct me if I'm wrong.

The ground is more to due with servicing the fixture. Anodized aluminum does not conduct electricity. The fixture must retain ground if the driver is removed incase some moron try's to remove the driver with it apparently still plugged in.... Also it's due to the voltage of the DC side being over 60 volts. If the dielectric layer in the pcb were to fail it again is attached to an anodized fixture. If a lightning strike where to occur the ground would need to carry 1000 volts + 2X the rated AC input voltage to satisfy UL. I have noticed several class 1 fixtures that were not grounded but where "certified ". ... I honestly think there is some back door deals made here and there. I can point out several "certified " fixtures that are not in compliance to the standard stated....

I really like Inventronics as they have a built in surge protection.

 

[2com]

The ground is more to due with servicing the fixture. Anodized aluminum does not conduct electricity. The fixture must retain ground if the driver is removed incase some moron try's to remove the driver with it apparently still plugged in.... Also it's due to the voltage of the DC side being over 60 volts. If the dielectric layer in the pcb were to fail it again is attached to an anodized fixture. If a lightning strike where to occur the ground would need to carry 1000 volts + 2X the rated AC input voltage to satisfy UL. I have noticed several class 1 fixtures that were not grounded but where "certified ". ... I honestly think there is some back door deals made here and there. I can point out several "certified " fixtures that are not in compliance to the standard stated....

I really like Inventronics as they have a built in surge protection.

Thanks for clarifying, Stephen.
On the Inventronics; wish I could find them for "end consumer" sales. I'd like to try a build with one.

 

[GreeneryBob]

How best do I ground
I have plenty of proper wire high heat etc
On frame going to where?
Copper piping on hot water rads they are 2 inch.
20 AMP GFI is available as dedicated.
I feel the rest I am ok with
I do have other lights
but drivers are all on-board
I don't want 40 lbs of drivers kicking out heat in tent.
Can you explain
And also why are your light strips never in stock lol?
I have the right person is that correct?
Thanks for stopping in to warm me.
It is what decent people do.

Hey Daveybc, you can get as elaborate as you want but really as long as you have a good, secure connection to the same ac ground as your driver is you should be fine. Isolated ground systems are more appropriate where you have delicate hospital equipment or other finicky equipment that must not fail, but could due to radio noise on the ground.

 

[daveybc]

So you think it would be more appropriate to connect the "heat sink ground" to the ac ground rather than the meanwell case?

When I think about this it sounds like the proper way. A ground wire that bypasses the Meanwell case. More of a dedicated ground wire. Makes sense.

I am sure the Meanwell case has a good ground though, most of the kits sold are grounded like this.

My drivers are on a aluminum mesh that has a ground attached to the ac outlet ground. It acts as a heat sink and secondary ground.

Hey Daveybc, you can get as elaborate as you want but really as long as you have a good, secure connection to the same ac ground as your driver is you should be fine. Isolated ground systems are more appropriate where you have delicate hospital equipment or other finicky equipment that must not fail, but could due to radio noise on the ground.

 

[daveybc]

Ok I didn't read into this and believe you are correct. However most the DIY kits from HLG use the driver as the ground.

If you are remote mounting your boards you SHOULD use a proper ground wire that has unimpeded path to earth.

The HLG 550s have one EVEN THOUGH the drivers are mounted to the board. Every light fixture you buy in north america will have the metal parts grounded.

And if you don't want to take my word for it, ask ANY other certified electrician.

 

[HydroRed]

You shouldn't ground the DC side to the AC ground! And the AC side on any Meanwell driver with a three lead power wire is internally grounded.

??
He was asking about grounding if using the Driver remotely (not attached to the frame). The only way you can properly ground to the frame when the driver is used remotely is to attach like I suggested or to connect a wire from the case of the driver to the frame of the light. I dont see how connecting a wire from the case of the driver would be any better of an earth ground than using the actual earth ground on the AC side -but its another way to do it. Not sure what you mean by "You shouldn't ground the DC side to the AC ground"?

 

[oldbeancounter]

??
He was asking about grounding if using the Driver remotely (not attached to the frame). The only way you can properly ground to the frame when the driver is used remotely is to attach like I suggested or to connect a wire from the case of the driver to the frame of the light. I dont see how connecting a wire from the case of the driver would be any better of an earth ground than using the actual earth ground on the AC side -but its another way to do it. Not sure what you mean by "You shouldn't ground the DC side to the AC ground"?

He was asking about grounding if using the Driver remotely (not attached to the frame)"

Yes that is actually what I am inquiring about, the driver if not mounted on frame like say a HLG light how to ground it as I was getting mixed responses when I did some searches as rest of wiring I understand just not this driver/frame/light grounding or however I might describe it best so there is no confusion.

thank you to all that is trying to help

 

[oldbeancounter]

Hey,

I picked up some of those for the driver output to fixture/boards input connection too. But they're rated only for 6A. So I ended up not using them (for a parallel 2 x QB96 fixture) because the HLG-320H-54 does ~6A, so there's no overhead for these connectors. Know what I mean?
What build were you able to use them for? I searched long for the best quick connect/disconnect options that were affordable (enough to need either 2 or 4 per two board fixture).

EDIT: If I could find these with a higher V/A rating I'd use'em.

Thanks.

good to know thanks

 

[GreeneryBob]

Ok I didn't read into this and believe you are correct. However most the DIY kits from HLG use the driver as the ground.

Ya, the HLG kits where the grounded driver is bolted to the the sink accomplishes grounding.

 

[oldbeancounter]

I have assembled a few of those I understand what you are saying.
I have pretty figured out what I needed to order all my parts, once I have something to loom at it
I will post.
Starting with 60- 2 watt red square olson LED chip they are ordered.
https://www.osram-latam.com/os/press/press-releases/osram_sets_new_standards_in_horticulture_lighting_with_oslon_square_hyper_red.jsp

Just now looking for deep blue (450 nm) now in a solder-less in the same chip if possible

but might not be anyone making them yet
I think many have bought the cutter strips with deep blue but I understand demand is high so might be long wait which mean is good I suppose keeps them making money an inventing new neat strips.
I should do some reading on figuring out how to place em over a grid with enough watts to do anything form flower to veg on dimmer both red and blue.
I should go make sure timer went off to tan plants ok
it is odd I saw a oily sheen on one leaf after transplanted and it is just that but just visible that's it not dripping lol
if anyone has interest in UVB that is.
Would it happen without it , not sure seems odd it only occurs when UVB light is used.
Anyone worried about UV exposure there are ways to make sure that does not occur but looks costly
https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2018/10/181004110047.htm
https://www.frogheart.ca/?p=26718
It is crazy how fast new tech is coming out.

 

[daveybc]

3 Sweet Skunk x C99 and 1 Blueberry ( purple ) pic grown under my HLG rig. I was really disappointed with the Blueberry. Although the smell was like grape bubbleyum. The finished product was rather tasteless and fluffy crappy yield. The SSxC99 was an excellent ( except for the big plant pheno ). The big plant seemed to lean more C99. It remind me of "California Red Hair" on steroids ( does that comment date my age.. ). The other 2 ssxc99 are quite nice to smoke. It's like functional weed that gets you really baked.

A while back I ordered C99 seeds and SSxC99 from Peakseedsbc. I also received a misc mixed pack which included the suspected Blueberry pheno (pic 2). In that pack I had a male that had great structure, wide leaves and a strong stalk. It stank of complete dankness. I crossed it with the suspected Blueberry, C99, and Pink Kush. I got some great results.

 

[Frank Nitty]

3 Sweet Skunk x C99 and 1 Blueberry ( purple ) pic grown under my HLG rig. I was really disappointed with the Blueberry. Although the smell was like grape bubbleyum. The finished product was rather tasteless and fluffy crappy yield. The SSxC99 was an excellent. The big plant seemed to lean more C99. The other 2 ssxc99 are quite nice to smoke. It's like functional weed that gets you really baked.

A while back I ordered C99 seeds and SSxC99 from Peakseedsbc. I also received a misc mixed pack which included the suspected Blueberry pheno. In that pack I had a male that had great structure, wide leaves and a strong stalk. It stank of complete dankness. I crossed it with the suspected Blueberry, C99, and Pink Kush. I got some great results.

Nice!!!

 

[daveybc]

The 3 tent winners were pheno 1 of the Blueberry x Dank. This had a loud dank flavour and buds were solid. Strong, the way I like it. This was cut and smoked weeks back. The other winner was the Pink Kush x Dank. This has flower gas dankness and smokes strong. It was tortured ( being the last to ripen ) with a move to the veg space ( on 12/12 ) then outside sun.

And I can't forget to include a pic of the Pink Bubba ( pic 5 ). It was nice as well. This was a seed I got from PB bag weed ( not the Pink pheno I have been growing ), very good none the less. Top 3 pheno's last run.

 

[daveybc]

We needed a new light above the kitchen sink. So why not...

 

[Frank Nitty]

The 3 tent winners were pheno 1 of the Blueberry x Dank. This had a loud dank flavour and buds were solid. Strong, the way I like it. This was cut and smoked weeks back. The other winner was the Pink Kush x Dank. This has flower gas dankness and smokes strong. It was tortured ( being the last to ripen ) with a move to the veg space ( on 12/12 ) then outside sun.

And I can't forget to include a pic of the Pink Bubba ( pic 5 ). It was nice as well. This was a seed I got from PB bag weed ( not the Pink pheno I have been growing ), very good none the less. Top 3 pheno's last run.

View attachment 4340048 View attachment 4340049 View attachment 4340055 View attachment 4340063 View attachment 4340071

Very nice!!!