Who do you think will win?

  • HLG

    Votes: 68 90.7%
  • HydroGrow

    Votes: 7 9.3%

  • Total voters
    75
  • Poll closed .
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kotobide

Well-Known Member
So the takeaway so far is the HGL is a he'll of veg light if you don't mind using twice the wattage to get the same results of the trinity.

Bring on the flower!
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
So the takeaway so far is the HGL is a he'll of veg light if you don't mind using twice the wattage to get the same results of the trinity.

Bring on the flower!
I don't think there was ever any doubt which one was more efficient. But I am interested in a side-by-side spectrum comparison at the same PPFD.

I'll shut up about that now, because I think I've said it enough in the other thread :P
 

Black-Thumb

Well-Known Member
Hey, I asked Hybrid this question in the other thread, but I think he missed my question in recent "flurry" of activity.

He said he spoke to you about the new light and when it would be released.

Do you work for HGL? Just wanted to clarify if we could direct questions to you about the new light and HGL in general since the person (whom I assume is the owner) is no longer with us here.
 

Axion42

Well-Known Member
Hey, I asked Hybrid this question in the other thread, but I think he missed my question in recent "flurry" of activity.

He said he spoke to you about the new light and when it would be released.

Do you work for HGL? Just wanted to clarify if we could direct questions to you about the new light and HGL in general since the person (whom I assume is the owner) is no longer with us here.
Hes just doing a separate grow testing the lights just like hybrid.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/brother-onehitdones-hydrogrowled-meets-lettuce-grow-test.988804/
 

Axion42

Well-Known Member
Oh. I see. Thanks. When he said "I spoke to 'the owner' and OneHitDone" (about the new lights being available) it sounded like they were an employee or something. Bummer. I was hoping we had a representative with inside info among us!
I'm sure he does, not sure to what extent but I'm sure he'll chime in at some point about his involvement. Could post in his thread.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Important tip for the sticky traps is knowing when they become less affective.
The cheap two sided ones I get and line the inside of the pot with get sprayed from misting fan leaves and tend to be good for about 3 weeks till I replace them. I have never had this level of control over gnats till I started changing them on time.

Been a while since I made any sprays for gnats.
When I had a problem I'd mist the top soil with capt jacks Spinosad.
Few days later I'd mist the top soil with pyrethrin.
Few days later I'd mist with an essential oil. The one I have now Bee safe 3 in one and uses sesame oil.

Sprays made from concentrate of pyrethrin or spinosad should be made in small batches that are used the same day. Can't make a big bottle and use it for a few weeks, it's best mixed the day it is used.

This trap was put in 2 days ago, I might just beat them this time and I think the sticky traps are playing the key roll in doing it.


@Randomblame - 6 weeks 12/12. Still think she's going to discard these fan leaves?
View attachment 4352594
Yeah, for now they look okay(only the one on the right has something) but pretty sure some of them will get yellow when it comes to the end.

BTW, try diatomaceous earth against fungus gnats. Simply add a few teaspoons to the soils surface, its just a form of silica and does not harm the plant in any way. The opposite is the case, plants need silica to harden the cell walls.
DE weakens the exoskeletons of insects and they die within a few days when they get in contact with DE. The exoskeletons get soft and they bleed to death.
The stuff gets flushed in deeper with every watering so it also kills their larvea. I would add another few spoons 2 weeks later but only if neccessary. Most of the time a one time treatment is enough cuz DE is not water soluble. It stays in the soil until it gets flushed out.

I'm using hydro correls to prevent the soil surface from drying out. These correls gets powdered with DE whenever I use them. I also mix it in the soil 2 week before I need it and there are no gnats left when doing the way.
I've used 1cup per 5gals of soil.
It really works wonder and works much better like all these fancy oils and its also much cheaper.
It would of course also kill soil living thrips but also bees when they get in contact but the latter don't life in the soil as far as I know..
1kg DE should cost 5-10$ or so..
 

Kushash

Well-Known Member
Yeah, for now they look okay(only the one on the right has something) but pretty sure some of them will get yellow when it comes to the end.

BTW, try diatomaceous earth against fungus gnats. Simply add a few teaspoons to the soils surface, its just a form of silica and does not harm the plant in any way. The opposite is the case, plants need silica to harden the cell walls.
DE weakens the exoskeletons of insects and they die within a few days when they get in contact with DE. The exoskeletons get soft and they bleed to death.
The stuff gets flushed in deeper with every watering so it also kills their larvea. I would add another few spoons 2 weeks later but only if neccessary. Most of the time a one time treatment is enough cuz DE is not water soluble. It stays in the soil until it gets flushed out.

I'm using hydro correls to prevent the soil surface from drying out. These correls gets powdered with DE whenever I use them. I also mix it in the soil 2 week before I need it and there are no gnats left when doing the way.
I've used 1cup per 5gals of soil.
It really works wonder and works much better like all these fancy oils and its also much cheaper.
It would of course also kill soil living thrips but also bees when they get in contact but the latter don't life in the soil as far as I know..
1kg DE should cost 5-10$ or so..
The plants I just harvested had DE and perlite in 4 layers. I added thin layers of DE, then perlite, then DE, then a last layer of perlite. I watered near the trunk to try not to get the outer sections of DE wet hoping it would clump less. The plant pictured and the other 6 in the ultimate comp do not have DE and gnats have vanished from both the DE layered plants and the ones without. I would have assumed the DE did the trick and I agree it is a great part of the arsenal but with 7 plants not having the DE and gnats being almost wiped out I have to assume it is the sticky traps that are getting my best results.
I think the key to my winning the battle lately is keeping the sticky traps fresh, changing them every 3 weeks. When I see sticky traps full of gnats in pictures these days I feel most of those traps have past the point of trapping the gnats and are not breaking the cycle.

How do you like your new light?
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Lol! The sticky traps can only catch the adult gnats, bro! But these are not the problem!
The larvea are the real problem cuz they eat the fine drinking hairs, damage the roots and open a window for root rot and other desease. You need to catch the adult gnats before they have time to lay new eggs but they only fly away/around when they have their shit done. So removing only the adult gnats means you remove the problem only from your eyes but the truth is they are still there and as soon as you remove the traps ... boom! You get another generation of adult gnats!

A DE layer on all 7 pots would really solve the problem once and for all...
DE can also get wet that's not an issue! Its a form of silica so its not water soluble. You can only flush it out with the drain while watering. Only a little silica is used by the plants.
 

f series

Well-Known Member
Sweet man, thanks.
I know this isn't your question, but
I ran 240w of 11 f series on a spaced out 2*4 sog only 17 plants, it was enough to get 5.5 ounces solid buds 1gram + only. The important thing I learned here though, was that if I could fit it in there, it would flower very well in any spot. Next time I'm going to fill that bitch up
 

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