DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

GBAUTO

GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
It should be the power supply coax connector. The only ? I have is what are the two tabs connected to on the board? The center should be the + and one of the other outer shell tabs should be -. If it hasn't damaged any of the traces in the board I would just solder some pigtails onto it and then onto your coax connector.
 
Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
GBAUTO said:
It should be the power supply coax connector. The only ? I have is what are the two tabs connected to on the board? The center should be the + and one of the other outer shell tabs should be -. If it hasn't damaged any of the traces in the board I would just solder some pigtails onto it and then onto your coax connector.
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Would if i could... Guess i could try it... Cant fuck it up any worse than it already is,right???
 
Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
TheGreatSouthern said:
dude just buy a soldering iron and solder it back on it's not hard soldering irons are cheap and everyone messing around with quantum boards should have one anyway. looks like it was a dry joint. watch a youtube video on how to solder.
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you're right I'm about to get on it and quit being lazy and s*** your right thanks
 
Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
GBAUTO said:
How did you manage to tear off the connector?
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Dude!!! I got locked up and my girl took my shit down like an idiot without knowing what she was doing... She's my ex girlfriend and im stunting on her now!!! Hlg sent me a new board,but no driver... Do i even need one for this board???
 
Blossom21

Blossom21

Active Member
wiring.png

I have a HLG-240H-48AB driver and going to wire them parallel, is my wiring plan good to go? I read that it doesn't matter which way you wire the potentiometer, so that should be good.

Then how do i correctly adjust the driver (voltage and current) so i don't blow anything up?

According to datasheet this driver has voltage adjustment from 44.8V to 51.2V and current adjustment from 2.5A to 5A (tested current adjustment with A type driver is actually from 0.3A to 5.4A). The boards are 3000K LM301B QB288 V2's, in the board it says 16S18P / 48V / 900mA - 2700 mA, so the driver should be able to output that 2.7A for both boards pretty much spot on if i'm not mistaken.

I'm just worried about he voltage if it goes up to 51.2V and the boards are rated for 48V, is there any danger to the boards with the voltage (or current) adjustment?

Lastly should i add resistors and/or fuses to make the system safe if shit happens? I haven't seen anyone actually having them, but many people have said those would protect the components.and prevent thermal runaways. In theory it would be very cheap to make the system bulletproof, but what kind of resistors or fuses should i buy and how to install them? Even if the risks are minimal i would wanna be safe.
 
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Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Blossom21 said:
View attachment 4369295

I have a HLG-240H-48AB driver and going to wire them parallel, is my wiring plan good to go? I read that it doesn't matter which way you wire the potentiometer, so that should be good.

Then how do i correctly adjust the driver (voltage and current) so i don't blow anything up?

According to datasheet this driver has voltage adjustment from 44.8V to 51.2V and current adjustment from 2.5A to 5A (tested current adjustment with A type driver is actually from 0.3A to 5.4A). The boards are 3000K LM301B QB288 V2's, in the board it says 16S18P / 48V / 900mA - 2700 mA, so the driver should be able to output that 2.7A for both boards pretty much spot on if i'm not mistaken.

I'm just worried about he voltage if it goes up to 51.2V and the boards are rated for 48V, is there any danger to the boards with the voltage (or current) adjustment?

Lastly should i add resistors and/or fuses to make the system safe if shit happens? I haven't seen anyone actually having them, but many people have said those would protect the components.and prevent thermal runaways. In theory it would be very cheap to make the system bulletproof, but what kind of resistors or fuses should i buy and how to install them? Even if the risks are minimal i would wanna be safe.
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Cant quite see your connections but they look good as long as youre going from + to + and - to -.
 
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Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Blossom21 said:
Yes sir there's just one red in + and one black in - connected to the boards and they go to the wagos like i posted earlier.
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You mentioned safety concerns; theres a way of making (relatively) sure your second board dont get the full power of the driver in case the other fail. You do it by voltage adjustment. Open up your driver on max both voltage and current. Start dimming down slowly by voltage, at first you see no change. Then You will see the boards dim, although the response curve is different from amp dimming. You need to get the feel for it (or use a multimeter) and leave voltage just at the point were it starts dimming the light. If you do this correctly you would be able to unplug one board and see no increase in light on the other board.
 
Blossom21

Blossom21

Active Member
Rocket Soul said:
You mentioned safety concerns; theres a way of making (relatively) sure your second board dont get the full power of the driver in case the other fail. You do it by voltage adjustment. Open up your driver on max both voltage and current. Start dimming down slowly by voltage, at first you see no change. Then You will see the boards dim, although the response curve is different from amp dimming. You need to get the feel for it (or use a multimeter) and leave voltage just at the point were it starts dimming the light. If you do this correctly you would be able to unplug one board and see no increase in light on the other board.
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What you mean by "second board dont get the full power of the driver in case the other fail"? If i run a constant voltage driver that outputs the same amount (or less) voltage than the boards are rated for, then it shouldn't matter if one or more boards fail right? At least i got a multimeter so i can adjust them.
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
The power supply isn't putting out power, power gets drawn by a load. As long as you have enough load to stay within its operating range, it will only put out as much power as the remaining load draws.
 
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