NFTG. Nectar For The Gods
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Daddygrows420
Active Member
I have a question for you pro's.....I have to go out of town in a couple weeks. I'll be leaving on a tuesday at like noon and be back at like 5pm on Thursday. What can I do to keep the girls kinda happy? I was thinking of just using tap water in some like 20oz pop bottles, and getting some of these drip spikes from Amazon. Think that'll get me by for couple days? Should I add HH or GM? I will give em all a heavy watering/feeding right before I get on the road. Thank you for any help! Peace out!
BunkerKing
Well-Known Member
Hey Everyone.
Been busy. Got the bud curing in jars now, so thats super rad.
Even bought a nice new bong just for flower. ;D
Figured id share abit of my coco experiences.
Roots were much healthier and nice color white this time.
~ Dont water everyday. Not until the plant demands it in the later stages of growth.
~ Use as Small of a pot as you can, for as long as you can.
~ Foliar feed as much as you can, keep the top growth supplied with tons of food.
~ Coco kind of reminds me of rockwool. Its like a sponge. You can totally get wet spots. But tends to say the same level of moist across the entire soil medium.
~ SLF100 is your friend. You need something breaking down and giving your plant food while you go 4-5 days without feeding, so it doesn't starve. Along with foliar feeding. That balance.
This of course if my experience in my unique setup.
Ive made a few unique batches of coco from pressed bricks now. 0 lock out issues. 0 "mag" issues.
Only thing it appears to want more of is sulfur.
My suggestion if you cant find nftg coco. Soak the coco bricks in a premade solution of a HH flush. 2-3 tablespoons per gallon. With 5-10ml of SLF100 per gallon.
Let it soak, press out the water & non-coir coco material. Give it a few days. Done.
My only real concern is micro nutes.
@bubba73 what would you use for all the trace elements? Azomite and let the plant ask the microbes for those unique nutes NFTG doesn't really have alot of?
I know our water source has alot of minerals in it, so they will get some in there. But for the rest. If you dont mind sharing bubba.
Been busy. Got the bud curing in jars now, so thats super rad.
Even bought a nice new bong just for flower. ;D
Figured id share abit of my coco experiences.
Roots were much healthier and nice color white this time.
~ Dont water everyday. Not until the plant demands it in the later stages of growth.
~ Use as Small of a pot as you can, for as long as you can.
~ Foliar feed as much as you can, keep the top growth supplied with tons of food.
~ Coco kind of reminds me of rockwool. Its like a sponge. You can totally get wet spots. But tends to say the same level of moist across the entire soil medium.
~ SLF100 is your friend. You need something breaking down and giving your plant food while you go 4-5 days without feeding, so it doesn't starve. Along with foliar feeding. That balance.
This of course if my experience in my unique setup.
Ive made a few unique batches of coco from pressed bricks now. 0 lock out issues. 0 "mag" issues.
Only thing it appears to want more of is sulfur.
My suggestion if you cant find nftg coco. Soak the coco bricks in a premade solution of a HH flush. 2-3 tablespoons per gallon. With 5-10ml of SLF100 per gallon.
Let it soak, press out the water & non-coir coco material. Give it a few days. Done.
My only real concern is micro nutes.
@bubba73 what would you use for all the trace elements? Azomite and let the plant ask the microbes for those unique nutes NFTG doesn't really have alot of?
I know our water source has alot of minerals in it, so they will get some in there. But for the rest. If you dont mind sharing bubba.
BunkerKing
Well-Known Member
Yissss. Hope you switch soon buddy. Looking good.
hawse
Well-Known Member
Yeah I use those "plant nanny" spikes with wine bottles when I travel. They work great (when they work), but sometimes for some reason they will get stuck and not work for some reason - still haven't figured out why yet... I've had them work great in the past for a four day trip, although by the time I got back the girls were drooping just a little...
hawse
Well-Known Member
So just a word of warning to those out there using BK as a foliar - I indeed learned my lesson too late and didn't have enough calcium in the soil while at the same time continuing to foliar feed way too long into the 3rd week of flower. One of my girls got nasty ugly yellow spots and dried up fan leaves about mid way down, but once I got enough Herc and Demeters in the soil the problem cleared up just fine... Lesson learned!
IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
Gypsum is a good add on to coco mixes, will give you the sulfur. Zues juice is the Nectar minerals in a bottle, Poseidon too, but can definitely amend with azomite......basalt even better. Check out Rockdustlocal.com, best available rock dust online, best pricing and free shipping for that heavy shit!! On another tip, glad you found what works for you in your environment, thanks for sharing.
IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
If you do the bottle spikes you can put some SLF in the water!! No nutes though. Definitely want to get a heavy watering/feed in right before you hit the road. If you have Cultured teas, I found when mixing 2 tsp. Per gallon with a few bottle adds, watered in to a slight runoff usually gives me an extra day before I need to feed again. So it would buy me a solid 3 days!! 30 ml of Hygeia if ya got it will help wet the soil longer, or any yucca product, Aloe works too.....its the saponins. Another helpful tip is a mulch layer or cover topsoil with landscape fabric or can cut up an old fabric pot to make a cover. Dimming lights if possible and avoid any fans blowing directly near the pots & topsoil. If in veg you can set timers to 16 ON 8 OFF so there is less hours of active growth. There is lots of different tricks but you will have the best handle on how your pots moisture level reacts.
unless your using RO water , tap water has all you need ..... if sulfur is the issue then epson salt or mag amp..... soild by cutting edge .....and fullon has trace elements ......
Daddygrows420
Active Member
Thanks for the info brother!
Daddygrows420
Active Member
Thanks brother! I have SLF and cultured Biologix. I can dim the lights to like 50% I have a fan circulating but not directly on anyone. I'm running autos on a 24hr light schedule.
right now will be a good idea to do a herc or tea depends on what schedule your on ....I would ph at 6.4-6.5
loop718
Well-Known Member
Ok ill give them a tea should i give them veg or bloom tea? Is it ok to flip with these numbers?
IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
Your good to flip, they are still vegging and still need N for the stretch so stick with the veg tea, can do a blend in transition 50/50 veg/bloom, then by end of week 2 you can rock the full bloom tea. Like bubba said, ph at 6.4/5 and that tea should help stabalize the ph......can add 30 HERC to the cultured if you want, with maybe some Kraken, peg and perseph!!
loop718
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a plan thanks bros!
hawse
Well-Known Member
So I have a question, I'm not quite sure how to ask it exactly, but how, in general, do you know when to bump up the nutes/ppms? I've got girls now eating like crazy - putting in about 900 ppm (lots of herc and demeters), slurries the next day are around 350. Ph is sitting steady at 6.7... Seeing some older fan leaves further away from the lights getting yellow/brown spots around the tips but nothing concerning, and in general the middle leaves are slightly curled down, but not so bad. Top new growth looks good. Week seven since the light change... Should I stick to this, too much too little? What signs should I look for to know when to give them more? I always try to error on the side of too little... Hope that makes sense -I can post pics later if you want...
Oh and for what it's worth this is an unknown strain that leans pretty heavy sativa, went 13 weeks last run and that was too soon...
Oh and for what it's worth this is an unknown strain that leans pretty heavy sativa, went 13 weeks last run and that was too soon...
hawse
Well-Known Member
I mean if you push too hard, the PH will get screwed up right? I guess in general I have a lot more to learn but unsure where to start - I've read through the unofficial NFTG bible, but I think I need to get on youtube and watch the videos etc... I need like the beginners guide to start lol
IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
As long as you track your slurries and know what you been feeding at, that's your road map to when you can bump things up. It's a numbers game, if 900 ppm feeds are going to 350 ppm, then you have 150 - 200 ppm of room before the math puts you out of range. Granted this is not exact but more of a guide into whats a safe number to bump feeds too. At the same time you want to base when to bump around the plant stages and those integral growth surges. Technically the plan is to gradually ramp up feeds weekly until time to back off and ripen. Just go easy at first, start next feed a 1000 ppm and do that a couple feeds and see if slurries stay the same, then bump to 1100.....its pretty simple when the plants eating and ph is in range!!
usually with high ppm be low ph , low ppm will be high ph ...this is where your slurries come to play , you can see what its been doing 2 days ago or a day ago or when ever its time to water /feed ....the only time you would see a ph out of range is over watering or letting the soil dry to much over chronic dry or wet..... slurries will give you a snap shot whats been going on