The Chinese Quantum Board Knock Off Builds

bigmikey86

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
cobshopgrow said:
looks quite similar to what i used in a 3x3 with a hlg320 1400b, had really no temp problems or reaching a 1000 ppfd when goin near.
This setup was quite nice but i would reinforce the boards more if i would build it again, less mechanical stress.
I simply go with strips for my next, easier to mix add other color strips and i think it will last longer for me.
Click to expand...
nice that’s good to hear. I was planning to use aluminum angle stock and make frames to hold the boards which would have their own heatsinks. My thought process was that the individual heat sinks alone would help reduce flex on the boards and the aluminum angle would just reinforce it all. Plus going with the angle stock allows me to add in sections whenever I want to add or change blue/Ir strips.
 
cobshopgrow

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
if the boards will be on heatsinks you will be safe i think.
I had them on a very rigid 20x20 t slot frame and it wasnt enough, but i mounted the bare boards to it (you can see a few pages back).
The very first version of the board was also L channel, but just 20x20mm 1mm thick, way too labile.
Stress overtime caused some defects.
The lever on bigger lamps could be quite a lot when moving up down.
 
cobshopgrow

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
you mean betwenn baords and driver i frank?
even if ite driver is remote you should be ok with awg18, and below, thats the nice thing with cc drivers, high voltage low A.
You can check this chart if you like.

American Wire Gauge Chart and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits table with ampacities, wire sizes, skin depth frequencies and wire breaking strength

AWG Wire size chart and ampacity table for design engineers including skin depth frequencies and tensile strength data; electrical cable size
www.powerstream.com

(they take longer lenghs in to account but, you will get a picture)

.. haha thare was one quicker then me
 
bigmikey86

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
cobshopgrow said:
if the boards will be on heatsinks you will be safe i think.
I had them on a very rigid 20x20 t slot frame and it wasnt enough, but i mounted the bare boards to it (you can see a few pages back).
The very first version of the board was also L channel, but just 20x20mm 1mm thick, way too labile.
Stress overtime caused some defects.
The lever on bigger lamps could be quite a lot when moving up down.
Click to expand...
That makes sense. The metal supermarket I use has good prices on aluminum stock so I’ll make sure to use a lot of reinforcements to elevate as much stress as possible. I’d most likely go with a minimum of 1/8” for thickness and 1”x1” for diameter. My brothers a mechanical engineer so I’ll grab his thoughts on the design when I can.
 
bigmikey86

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
cobshopgrow said:
you mean betwenn baords and driver i frank?
even if ite driver is remote you should be ok with awg18, and below, thats the nice thing with cc drivers, high voltage low A.
You can check this chart if you like.

American Wire Gauge Chart and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits table with ampacities, wire sizes, skin depth frequencies and wire breaking strength

AWG Wire size chart and ampacity table for design engineers including skin depth frequencies and tensile strength data; electrical cable size
www.powerstream.com
(they take longer lenghs in to account but, you will get a picture)
Click to expand...
Beat ya to it :hump:
 
cobshopgrow

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
yea, better safe then sorry.
Especially if the market is near you and offer good prices.
1x1" is the least you should go, i made my cxb3590 setup with this, classic growmau 5x cxb3590, works till today, just stored in the chamber as i have newer stuff to play.
I have the 20mm L channel /1mm 80x80cm frame still here, may will use it as a scrog net in the future.
For my newest design i went with 20x20 T-slot and developed some nice mounting system for the strips, no drill needed simple and straight forward.
 
bigmikey86

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
cobshopgrow said:
yea, better safe then sorry.
Especially if the market is near you and offer good prices.
1x1" is the least you should go, i made my cxb3590 setup with this, classic growmau 5x cxb3590, works till today, just stored in the chamber as i have newer stuff to play.
I have the 20mm L channel /1mm 80x80cm frame still here, may will use it as a scrog net in the future.
For my newest design i went with 20x20 T-slot and developed some nice mounting system for the strips, no drill needed simple and straight forward.
Click to expand...
T-slot is pretty pricey for a frame though no? Or did you mount the strips on something else which you then mount to the t-slot?
 
cobshopgrow

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
not expensive at all, for me, very very country dependend it looks.
cheaper then the homedepot L channels.
1.20$ a foot roughly, cut on every wished lengh, you can cut cost for mounting material when you 3d print yourself, otherwise a very few ten bucks for mounting stuff..
And i mount the strips direct to some t-slot, absolute cheapest and most effective way to go for me.
Below is a intermeidate version, lol, next one will be more fancy, but similar style.
btw thats the recycled frame from the 6x qb288 build, have some other tslot this size which i will recycle as plant tray, this stuff is usefull.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
bigmikey86

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
cobshopgrow said:
not expensive at all, for me, very very country dependend it looks.
cheaper then the homedepot L channels.
1.20$ a foot roughly, cut on every wished lengh, you can cut cost for mounting material when you 3d print yourself, otherwise a very few ten bucks for mounting stuff..
And i mount the strips direct to some t-slot, absolute cheapest and most effective way to go for me.
Below is a intermeidate version, lol, next one will be more fancy, but similar style.
btw thats the recycled frame from the 6x qb288 build, have some other tslot this size which i will recycle as plant tray, this stuff is usefull.
Click to expand...
Mmmmmmmmmmmmm nice..very nice. I’m gunna look into this.
 
cobshopgrow

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
i have no clue for a good usa source, maybe some can jump in. (if youre from the usa)
for me it is 16 € cent each for 40mm (min order), price is calculated in mm. 1meter is 4€ f.e., incl. local taxes.
Of course a nearby market with a good saw is nice, best would be they stock t-slot, haha.

Please note, above construction, while beeing very stiff, wasnt stiff enough for bare boards, for me, would at least use one bar in the middle if using 288 ?s again, so 3 bars for each row, if that makes sense.
 
bigmikey86

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
cobshopgrow said:
i have no clue for a good usa source, maybe some can jump in. (if youre from the usa)
for me it is 16 € cent each for 40mm (min order), price is calculated in mm. 1meter is 4€ f.e., incl. local taxes.
Of course a nearby market with a good saw is nice, best would be they stock t-slot, haha.

Please note, above construction, while beeing very stiff, wasnt stiff enough for bare boards, for me, would at least use one bar in the middle if using 288 ?s again, so 3 bars for each row, if that makes sense.
Click to expand...
Yeah that makes sense. PCB boards are like waffers lol so I think I’ll stick with the individual heat sinks to keep it all nice and toight
 
cobshopgrow

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
the solder joints dont like stress, i think especially on big aluminium PCB are things going on you dont want doing to your tiny led solder joins.
Yeah , the heatsinks should do the trick, reinforcement at the right place for sure, then rest becomes less critical.
 
Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
cobshopgrow said:
you mean betwenn baords and driver i frank?
even if ite driver is remote you should be ok with awg18, and below, thats the nice thing with cc drivers, high voltage low A.
You can check this chart if you like.

American Wire Gauge Chart and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits table with ampacities, wire sizes, skin depth frequencies and wire breaking strength

AWG Wire size chart and ampacity table for design engineers including skin depth frequencies and tensile strength data; electrical cable size
www.powerstream.com

(they take longer lenghs in to account but, you will get a picture)

.. haha thare was one quicker then me
Click to expand...
Between board and driver,yes...
 
cobshopgrow

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
wasnt sure, as if you run a long remote line you could use thicker wire and flexible.

You can search amazon for AWG 18
NTE Electronics whs18–08–25
6.70$
thats solid core, easier to work with.

Tjumen 40 FT 18 GAUGE
is flexible

to give you a idea.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top