Newbie clone rooting issues

I used to use a E-Z cloner with great success, But was a high maintenance, time consuming ordeal... but in the last year I switched to rock wool and tray w/dome...Kind of a set it and forget it system...just make sure your environment is good and you should have decent results. Start with good genetics and good cuttings.
I am avoiding rockwool currently because my grow setup is aeroponic, and I have been led to believe that rockwool is detrimental to that grow style due to water retention and PH issues. I have not heard anything solid to the contrary yet. Im getting to the point I may try it just to see and have that knowledge, but I would really like to see some kind of success before I go off experimenting against established norms.
 
temp def important. some strains are harder than others. even in cold temps i usually see roots at 3-4 weeks tho

30W 4 feet above is really low light, i usually use the 15W LEDs (with the dome popped off) 12-18" above a tray (or put the clones down low in an existing veg room with ample indirect/reflected light)
This is an interesting piece of information. I thought about putting the box I made in the tent with my mother, but everything I read indicated to me that my 600 watt LED grow light was far too strong for that, even indirectly. this is why I use the 30 watt bulb. For cloning, the bulk of information I have read so far says to use very weak fluorescent bulbs a foot or two away. This is why I keep it so high, as I have seen numbers for wattage on fluorescent bulbs for clones at 10 or less in wattage. I may move the setup into the tent with the mother and see how that goes. Thanks for the info there.
 
Environmental and genetic factors aside... have you considered how and when your making the cuts as the factor?
I was in same boat the only few things I changed which helped this run.
Cut off mum had 8 internodes & quite woody. I cut folage off at 4th n 3rd down. (Diagnal cut @ 4th) then trimmed tips at 1st/2nd. (auxins in internodes)
Dont ph cloner for 3 days after the initial 5.8 (50/50 tap/ro)
Due to central heating temps in first 4 days 75 to 80f (you dont have roots to rot)
They took 1/2 the time to root.
You will get it sorted Ww. Just keep at it.
I have watched probably 100 + videos about cutting and cleaning clones just to make absolutely sure what I am doing was correct. I have tried top and bottom clones but not as large as you suggest. I trim the stem at 45 degrees around 4th-5th node but the cut is usually just above the 6th, and trim the leaves up to the 2nd. I have tried leaving the remaining leaves intact and trimming to various degrees up to about 50%. I have also tried root temp from 68 to about 73F and have not yet gotten any kind of rot below the collars so far. The clones that I didn't trim leaves from actually grew 2 or 3 inches over the course of about 5 days with straight distilled water. I have also tried PH from 5.5 to 6.5, and haven't had to adjust it more then once in a 2 week period and not before day 5 so far. The current attempt is using temps between 75 and 80 because that was suggested by the person I got the clones from originally. He clones in an empty closet with a space heater and keeps the temp at 80, These clones came from that environment. This is currently my 5th or 6th attempt, so I have covered most of the bases as far as environment goes to no avail so far, which is why I am reaching out.
Also, appreciate the encouragement Skidmarx :)
 

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
PPM is roughly 350-400

The setup I have is like a clone x cloner where it has holes in the lid with 2 inch collars with a pump and spray nozzles
The difference with mine is that instead of the pump and nozzles I have a "pond fogger" for lack of a better description and a fan that blows the mist into the clone box

The setup is actually almost exactly like a high pressure fog clone box you could buy on amazon, and far more simple then you might believe.
My grow will also be aeroponic and because of that I cant use rockwool cubes as far as I know because they cause issues in the aero grow with PH and root rot. Its not complicated, and there are commercially available clone boxes that run on the same premise.

I need to see the set up and the mother plant if you want more than a guess.

I think the ppms are too high - drop to 200-250.

what nutes are in the thing?
and do you use a rooting simulator like vita grow rooting compound?? Look it up I recommend to use something like it, and not the gel or powder, and how long you dip the cut in hte rooting compound and how long you let it sit on the cut till it gets rinsed off is critical. its a liquid and that time is about 15-20 seconds or else you could fry the cut cuz its a hot product.

I think that the fan blowing into the box isnt needed and or screwing things up / drying the stem out even though its a mist maybe?
Water temp needs to be 72 degrees this isnt negotiable.
The funky light idk about that how bright and how far off the deck is it axactly, why not get a utility light that has areflective dome.shield and a spring clamp on it and a cfl grow bulb for it.

Without going around and looking at one of these things or yours it sounds like you dont need a humidity dome, it isnt that kind of cloning system, and your mixing cloning systems ...idk not going to reread all the post to find out if you had a humidity dome or not ...You dont use a humidity dome with the bucket and the water that spray up on the stems, you use a humidity dome for when you use r/w or peat pucks in a tray.
 
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myke

Well-Known Member
No dome,and warmer water will help.If mother plant is fed high in N clones will take a lot longer.Plain water also dont need to add anything.
 
I need to see the set up and the mother plant if you want more than a guess.

I think the ppms are too high - drop to 200-250.

what nutes are in the thing?
and do you use a rooting simulator like vita grow rooting compound?? Look it up I recommend to use something like it, and not the gel or powder, and how long you dip the cut in hte rooting compound and how long you let it sit on the cut till it gets rinsed off is critical. its a liquid and that time is about 15-20 seconds or else you could fry the cut cuz its a hot product.

I think that the fan blowing into the box isnt needed and or screwing things up / drying the stem out even though its a mist maybe?
Water temp needs to be 72 degrees this isnt negotiable.
The funky light idk about that how bright and how far off the deck is it axactly, why not get a utility light that has areflective dome.shield and a spring clamp on it and a cfl grow bulb for it.

Without going around and looking at one of these things or yours it sounds like you dont need a humidity dome, it isnt that kind of cloning system, and your mixing cloning systems ...idk not going to reread all the post to find out if you had a humidity dome or not ...You dont use a humidity dome with the bucket and the water that spray up on the stems, you use a humidity dome for when you use r/w or peat pucks in a tray.
This is the 30 watt red/blue/IR bulb:
20191116_113559.jpg

This is the entire setup:
20191116_113626.jpg

Tried to catch the fog inside in these two shots, this has been running for about 10 mins to get to this point:
20191116_113649.jpg
20191116_113704.jpg

This is the fog box fan and the fogger:
20191116_113722.jpg

This is the light when its on:
20191116_113742.jpg

This is the mother inside my grow tent:
20191116_114516.jpg
 
No dome,and warmer water will help.If mother plant is fed high in N clones will take a lot longer.Plain water also dont need to add anything.
The soil my friend put this in runs a little hot, but its been in it for 4 months or so, and I use distilled water on it and foliar fed it for a week with straight distilled before I cut them. I think under the circumstances that's the best I can do for N content.
 

Keeprollinup

Well-Known Member
Best success rate I've had was just cutting at 45° angle dipping in clonx gel and putting straight into moist coco and leaving in propergator for 7 days. 3days with vents closed then slowly opened. Good luck.
 

BobBitchen

Well-Known Member
IMHO, the problem most have with cloning is not keeping it simple. I have no environmental controls, my
air temps range from low 50's to mid 100's, RH from high 70's to single digits.
I've had almost 100% success with this aero, non PH'd tap water, T5's @ bout 16", & pump on 24/7
Patience, healthy mom, & not messing with the cuts for 10 - 14 days.
 

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
This is the 30 watt red/blue/IR bulb:
View attachment 4421985

This is the entire setup:
View attachment 4421977

Tried to catch the fog inside in these two shots, this has been running for about 10 mins to get to this point:
View attachment 4421978
View attachment 4421979

This is the fog box fan and the fogger:
View attachment 4421980

This is the light when its on:
View attachment 4421981

This is the mother inside my grow tent:
View attachment 4421982
and why cant you have the pond thing in the other tub and get rid of the fan and tube. I think from the pic the clear tub looks better for what your trying to do and that is to get roots.

Water temp is critical needs to a constant 72.

Mother plant look really green excessive nitrogen will restrict root development, so if your heavy on the N then need to correct that, with just enough N.

Can you post a link to the bulb

30 watt blue/red/ir bulb in a reflective hood thats about 4-5 feet from the humidity dome,
You want the blue light for root development more than the red spectrum, I cant comment on the IR part of it im not knowledge on that derp. 30 watts though might be able to have that 2 feet off the top of the plants to be effective.

I use this type of bulb about 7 inches off the top of my cuts in a reflector like yours, depends on how many cuts you have for that tub of yours you may need to have two of these mounted at that height for coverage.

and I use a system like this but my pump and sprayer is different and I also have a chiller hooked up to it with a wort chiller inside to maintain temps which is huge when you have a pump inside raising the temps all the time.
 
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myke

Well-Known Member
Ditch the thingamgig on the right,add an air stone to the tote.Plain water at 75 done.KISS!Tips of clones right at water level or 1/4" up.No dome.
 
Ditch the thingamgig on the right,add an air stone to the tote.Plain water at 75 done.KISS!Tips of clones right at water level or 1/4" up.No dome.
The fog box exists because the fogger raises the water temp to roughly 90F tried it in the root box first time and the clones died my first day back to work which was day 3.
 

myke

Well-Known Member
The fog box exists because the fogger raises the water temp to roughly 90F tried it in the root box first time and the clones died my first day back to work which was day 3.
Sorry but I don’t really understand that fogger thing. Just really more complicated then it needs to be. Cloning is a natural simple thing. Start dicking with things and it all goes south quick. Good luck.
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
some OLD wisdom from Ed and Mel from 30 years ago that always stuck with me

"slightly woody clones root the best"
"2 and 3 node cuttings root the best"
"do not fertilize with (excessive) nitrogen before taking cuts as plants who have stored a lot of N root slower (i would always feed mom bloom nutes for a few days before cutting

your goal is to reduce transpiration but that depends a lot on your environment. im in the desert so i must use domes. in winter i can get away without them on a cloner but not on cubes

a 15W 18" fluorcescent tube a few inches above a 10x20 tray with a dome yields almost 100% for me

too much light - they cannibalize themselves for nutes
too low light - they will root slower which allows more time for rot and mold to set in

in my cubes i use straight pHd water and nothing else until i see roots. healthy cuts have all the nutes they need stored to pop roots

some have said foliar feeding mom with kelp for 1-2 weeks before taking cuts helps
 

morugawelder

Well-Known Member
I get me about a 5 to 6 inch cutting with a node about inch from the bottom , cut at a 45 , scrape skin about 1 " up
cover it good with clonex , stick in a rapid rooter , put in a start cell in a high dome tray semi dark area , spray underside of leaves , ( make sure you don't leave big fan leaves on cutting trim leaves in half , 10 days lots of roots !
 
Sorry but I don’t really understand that fogger thing. Just really more complicated then it needs to be. Cloning is a natural simple thing. Start dicking with things and it all goes south quick. Good luck.
Ok so apologies for the delay in replies. Computer died and i had to replace it because it was too damn old. In that time though, i believe i have found the issue. After about 3 months of trying and failing to start clones, i had about a half dozen fan leaves start showing nutrient deficiencies. Different ones in each spot, nitrogen toxicity in one spot, phosphorous in another, calcium in a third, etc. I knew it couldnt possibly be short of all of those things, so i checked the soil ph. 8.1. Spent 2 weeks using elemental sulpher to bring that down to the proper range, and i also ph the water a little lower. Have 3 clones in the setup for 2 days now, and not a single issue yet. All other attempts had immediate issues .......wilting, leaf burn etc... so maybe will actually get a strike rate above 0 this time. The post about the plant looking too green was the catalyst for all this, so tyvm, and to everyone else for the input.
 
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