Strange growth and colouring

Turanchala

Turanchala

Well-Known Member
BenGman said:
You kinda answered your own question there, levels of nutrients and minerals should be balanced so your plants are getting everything they need in the correct proportion, canna even recommends not to mix other brands with their nutes for that reason.
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I was thinking the same thing but then when I watched a video online of people who get one pound per light which is the name of the video they are all using additives which are different from the base brand as long as it is medium friendly and they are getting a pound per light .
 
Kurdishpsychonaut

Kurdishpsychonaut

Member
Turanchala said:
I was thinking the same thing but then when I watched a video online of people who get one pound per light which is the name of the video they are all using additives which are different from the base brand as long as it is medium friendly and they are getting a pound per light .
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The best nutrients is the light for plants more light means more product but more synthetic nutrients means more problem happy gardening
 
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Mitchician

Well-Known Member
You can still LST them it's not too late, but personally I'd just do some defoliation and let them fill back in with new growth.
I'd just take any leaves not getting light, leaves blocking budsites, or ones that are overlapping and sweating on each other. You can also remove the fan leaves from any branches getting too far ahead of the others if there isn't any room to tie it down, this will slow it down and let the other branches catch up to it.

I think most people use the silica in veg only. If you use it in flower, I think you're meant to taper it off during stretch and end it by around week 3. Also when you put it in your mix, it should go in first, then lower the pH to somewhere below 8, then add the rest of your nutrients. You will learn over time what to pH the mixture to so that when you've added everything else it's in the right range... Or if you want to add it after other nutrients, you can put the silica into some separate water then pH that water to under 8 before adding to the mix. If you do it that way and your mix is already a good pH then you will have to make the Si mix the same pH before adding it. I think it's better to use little and often.
Sorry I don't know how to use the others.
 
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Mitchician

Well-Known Member
It does look like it's forming balls, is it meant to be feminised? You can leave it a few more days to make sure. I can't see any pistils, and if it's showing it's sex before all the other plants, it's probably male, not hermie.

About your original question regarding the watering of the coco, you do want to be watering every day, but this MUST be done in the right size pot, when your plant is too small for the pot you need to wait for the moisture content to drop in between waterings instead of just feeding every day.
You're right that the ec and pH does change too much if you let it dry too much, but when your plant is undersized for the pot, the moisture content doesn't change much in 24 hours, so that's why your plants looked overwatered, because they were. When you use coco you should use smaller pots than soil and you should transplant frequently into only a small step up from the last size. This allows you to keep feeding very often.

Your question about too much light... there is such thing as too much light indoors, that's why we have to raise our lights to a certain height above the plants. I think the general rule is that you want something like 40-50w/sq. ft for bloom if your lights are reasonably efficient, and the most efficient lights can be spread out to about 30w/sq. ft. How big is the area your plants are in?Here I am sounding like a know it all again but I don't mean to sound pretentious, I'm just relaying the knowledge I've learned, a lot of it gained from all the wonderful contributors to this forum.
 
Turanchala

Turanchala

Well-Known Member
Only one of them has true pistils coming out atm and its the smallest one and yes all feminised , I really think something is delaying them , maybe because they are overwatered and droopy with wrinkled leaves , I just hope they don’t turn hermie , I suppose one or two max hermie I can deal with if it’s inevitable lol .erm the lights really are not a problem 2 x 600w are in cool tubes and the 1000w gavita is only set to 600 too and they are like a meter and half away from canopy, same with leds. The growth actually is spindly as if they are not receiving enough light . I have to say I agree fully that too much water must be the error as everything else even the leaves are showing no problems the humidity is 40(rh) e.c going in is 0.9 the runn off is like 0.8 , ph inn is 5.8 every time Temp is 23•c day 17 night (lightoff), I maybe now will water every other day untill they perk up hopefully the spindly growth will stretch out .
 

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BenGman

BenGman

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I lst almost every week or so depending how bushy they are getting till roughly week 6 of flower for light to the lower buds , hell I'll even lightly snap a branch out the way with never an issue at all, also overwatering can cause huge issue's and stunt growth, I've been there before. I fixed it by putting lots of small holes in my buckets to let plenty of oxygen to the roots and letting it dry up abit faster, When I was doing run to waste system in my newbie days. Using just Coco holds onto allot of water :( too much imo unless the plant is well established and drinking allot each day, I'd always use 20% Coco 80% perlite to make it really hard to Overwater. not certain what sorta pots you are using? also having plenty of ventilation and fresh air blowing around the planta helps out allot, I hope they don't Hermie on you , keep us updated
 
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Turanchala

Turanchala

Well-Known Member
Hi guys thanks for the info well I skipped a watering yesterday and today they look like this . I just don’t know weather to skip another day , I can’t see any calax with two hairs yet and it’s day 8 of flower is this normal ? I’m hoping the little things on the stems from the last pics are the calax forming on the node , only one plant has this look anyway but it’s my biggest best looking one .4EE380AE-827A-44E3-AAFD-C31DFF61845C.jpeg
 

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Mitchician

Well-Known Member
Maybe it is a hermie. Sometimes plants only throw out 1 or 2 balls down at the lower nodes where those ones are but not on the buds, if they do turn out to be balls you could pluck those ones and do a full search of it keep an eye on it throughout the grow or just throw it out. Is it chem or skittles?

I think you should remove a lot of those big fan leaves at the top of the canopy to let more light down to the lower bud sites, and raise your day and night temperature a few degrees if you can. Since you're using cooltubes you can raise your day temps quite easily. Optimum is 27c without co2 as far as I know, so you want to be as close as possible to that all the time with the lights on, and around 21c lights off.

The plants look a lot better now, but since your ec is coming out lower than what's going in and you're going into bloom, I recommend raising ec gradually over the next month or so. Your next watering should be a bit stronger than your last, the plants look like they're about to get hungry so it will pay to have all the food there for them when they want it. Maybe you can lower your lights just a touch too..
 
Turanchala

Turanchala

Well-Known Member
Mitchician said:
Maybe it is a hermie. Sometimes plants only throw out 1 or 2 balls down at the lower nodes where those ones are but not on the buds, if they do turn out to be balls you could pluck those ones and do a full search of it keep an eye on it throughout the grow or just throw it out. Is it chem or skittles?

I think you should remove a lot of those big fan leaves at the top of the canopy to let more light down to the lower bud sites, and raise your day and night temperature a few degrees if you can. Since you're using cooltubes you can raise your day temps quite easily. Optimum is 27c without co2 as far as I know, so you want to be as close as possible to that all the time with the lights on, and around 21c lights off.

The plants look a lot better now, but since your ec is coming out lower than what's going in and you're going into bloom, I recommend raising ec gradually over the next month or so. Your next watering should be a bit stronger than your last, the plants look like they're about to get hungry so it will pay to have all the food there for them when they want it. Maybe you can lower your lights just a touch too..
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Thank you
 
F

Frigault

Well-Known Member
Well to look at all this. Not much is wrong other then yiu went all out on nuts stocking.
For your watering....
Every one says back off.. I suggest a few mist on surface.
Since only the surface tend to dryout from heat and such.. Humidity around leaf could be just a little higher then overall grow space.. And the relative moisture within the medium dosent have a chance to dry up around the 30% in the bottom 1/3 of pot. Which is important for root developpement '' to much moisture less root activitie especially during flower so the week 2 and 3 sould still be focus on root development and overall growth '' elongation'' after week 3 root systeme stoos growing and vegetation is greatly reduce to let all energy focusing on flower developpement..

As for nutes feeding. The E.C was a little fast from 0.4- 1.0 in a week that explaines the the smal nutes burns.. But it is not to much. It was just done a little fast... Also salts built up.. While you are now giving it 1.0 E.C.. What ever ratio was remaining from last feed add up.. And doing a water run of test isent really accurate... What needs to be done is a E.C soil testing. By take a certain amount of coco from with half way in the bucket. And add a certain amount of distilled water.. Like 100ml coco to 100ml if distilled water to find out how much ppm is in the soil i forgot the volume yoi need to calculate but you can google this.. And this will give you a better readingbover time..

Basically you go by feel and by demand if the plant ratter then fix schedual

Also. 1.0 can be push to 1.2. But don't forget to give yourself time to have the ppm drop on time for harvest.. I've seen many people with high ppm in their last days of flowering and flush flush flush and paniking cayse its still very high. So don't miss yiu widow.. You'll water every other day in mid flowering and you'll know why. Just not has needed in first month of flowering
 
Turanchala

Turanchala

Well-Known Member
Frigault said:
Well to look at all this. Not much is wrong other then yiu went all out on nuts stocking.
For your watering....
Every one says back off.. I suggest a few mist on surface.
Since only the surface tend to dryout from heat and such.. Humidity around leaf could be just a little higher then overall grow space.. And the relative moisture within the medium dosent have a chance to dry up around the 30% in the bottom 1/3 of pot. Which is important for root developpement '' to much moisture less root activitie especially during flower so the week 2 and 3 sould still be focus on root development and overall growth '' elongation'' after week 3 root systeme stoos growing and vegetation is greatly reduce to let all energy focusing on flower developpement..

As for nutes feeding. The E.C was a little fast from 0.4- 1.0 in a week that explaines the the smal nutes burns.. But it is not to much. It was just done a little fast... Also salts built up.. While you are now giving it 1.0 E.C.. What ever ratio was remaining from last feed add up.. And doing a water run of test isent really accurate... What needs to be done is a E.C soil testing. By take a certain amount of coco from with half way in the bucket. And add a certain amount of distilled water.. Like 100ml coco to 100ml if distilled water to find out how much ppm is in the soil i forgot the volume yoi need to calculate but you can google this.. And this will give you a better readingbover time..

Basically you go by feel and by demand if the plant ratter then fix schedual

Also. 1.0 can be push to 1.2. But don't forget to give yourself time to have the ppm drop on time for harvest.. I've seen many people with high ppm in their last days of flowering and flush flush flush and paniking cayse its still very high. So don't miss yiu widow.. You'll water every other day in mid flowering and you'll know why. Just not has needed in first month of flowering
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Thanks , very kind of you for the knowledge, I lowered my lights to about 1 metre to the canopy and there already peeking up , it kind of explains some spindly growth from lack of light , as for the e.c and ph I waterd with 1.0 ec just now adding 80 ml each of canna a and b and and 80 ml cannazym the ph was automatically at 5.8 from this . The canna grow calculator recommended I should of added 124 ml to the 50l water mix bucket but I went under to be safe . Anyway I tested the ph and ec from runoff and they both come out exactly the same as went in , I’m kinda of 80 0/0 sure now that the light was too weak although I have a lot of light too far away . Could damage resulting in Hermies come from lack of light do you know ? Thank you for the excellent advice again , oh yes and about the e.c info I gave I did go from 0.4 -0.6 0.8 and then 1.0 but when I was at like 0.6 I added some revive from advanced nutes which I think is only meant to be used on its own for sick plants that’s when I got the burn .
 

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RocketBoy

Well-Known Member
I know I'm going to sound like an asshole, but like a newbie you went all out with the lights, like really, why are those led even doing there? and that Gavita?

You totally went over kill with this grow.
 
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conemanthebongbeerian

New Member
Either way, she is giving it a go and well here we are, learning is the best part about growing anything, but when you get to indulge in the massive after the grow my favorite time is the pull, with sticky icky :) I have two Tents running LED's 4 x 900watt one running a 6mtr track bar the other is a 3x3 one is 3x6m, previous tec was alway m/h with balist much like the gravita's good to see you are giving it a go. Out door is very rewarding also great to see! I would agree to maximize square foot to wattage ratio a little better rather than running the power bills up.
 
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Mitchician

Well-Known Member
It is a heck of a lot of light lol, probably a good 2kw at the moment?.. I would also suggest putting the tallest plants under the led's now and the shortest ones far away from the led's so they can stretch up to the height of the others. The led's should slow down the stretch of the taller ones, and the hps should help the shorter ones stretch out. I have seen people who say some plants can hermie only in the places that are lacking good light. That's why I suggested to take some leaves off to let more light through the canopy, but you might think taking the leaves off will cause hermie issues. If you do, then don't take the leaves because if they hermie you might think it was from deleafing when they may have just hermed either way. You should always do what you think is the best with the knowledge you currently have, instead of taking some other random person's word for things.
 
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