ELECTRICIANS

Blissfarms2020

Active Member
Well how are you going to run the wire is first. This determines some shit. You want to enter the panel properly through a knockout. Pics of the situation would help a ton.
Sub panel is literally right next to the tent on right side. And main panel is at front of my garage id say 25 ft away maybe or less. They guys who came and looked said they wld do something with the sub panel since its so close.
 

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Renfro

Well-Known Member
Your real problem is gonna be access to the sides of the panel to get wire in and out since it's finished work (drywall and stucco). If you are up to figuring that out and how to run the wire then proceed. If I were in your shoes I would hire a sparky to run the 30 amp "dryer"outlet that matches your cord plug and also run a dedicated 20 amp 120 volt receptacle for the AC. If required another 20 amp 120 volt feed with a few receptacles placed for fans and shit.

Check the top two spaces on that sub panel (take the cover off) and make sure they are real and there is a buss bar behind there to stab into. sometimes they have a cover with more spaces than the bus and it's odd to fill from the bottom up. Just wanna make sure. You may have to take and consolidate some circuits using tandem space saver breakers (if available for your panel) 4 circuits into 2 spaces and free up two adjacent ones for the new breaker.

Here is a basic list of stuff you will need:
  • 30 amp double pole breaker that matches your box type (Square D, Homeline, Siemens), it will take two spaces
    • you can't use a single space with a tandem or "space saver" breaker as that's on the same phase when stabbed. They can however be used to consolidate 120 volt circuits to free space.
  • #10 wire
    • 10-2 if a three prong or 10-3 if a 4 prong, they don't count the bare conductor
    • the cable type depends on how it's ran, non metallic (NM) for in walls and for exposed you can use metal clad (MC) with surface mount clips or conduit and THHN/THWN conductors.
  • 30 amp receptacle that matches the cord end
  • Surface mount metal box
  • Cover for box that fits receptacle
  • Connectors to enter the panel and the metal box (match the cable type)
 

Blissfarms2020

Active Member
Your real problem is gonna be access to the sides of the panel to get wire in and out since it's finished work (drywall and stucco). If you are up to figuring that out and how to run the wire then proceed. If I were in your shoes I would hire a sparky to run the 30 amp "dryer"outlet that matches your cord plug and also run a dedicated 20 amp 120 volt receptacle for the AC. If required another 20 amp 120 volt feed with a few receptacles placed for fans and shit.

Check the top two spaces on that sub panel (take the cover off) and make sure they are real and there is a buss bar behind there to stab into. sometimes they have a cover with more spaces than the bus and it's odd to fill from the bottom up. Just wanna make sure. You may have to take and consolidate some circuits using tandem space saver breakers (if available for your panel) 4 circuits into 2 spaces and free up two adjacent ones for the new breaker.

Here is a basic list of stuff you will need:
  • 30 amp double pole breaker that matches your box type (Square D, Homeline, Siemens), it will take two spaces
    • you can't use a single space with a tandem or "space saver" breaker as that's on the same phase when stabbed. They can however be used to consolidate 120 volt circuits to free space.
  • #10 wire
    • 10-2 if a three prong or 10-3 if a 4 prong, they don't count the bare conductor
    • the cable type depends on how it's ran, non metallic (NM) for in walls and for exposed you can use metal clad (MC) with surface mount clips or conduit and THHN/THWN conductors.
  • 30 amp receptacle that matches the cord end
  • Surface mount metal box
  • Cover for box that fits receptacle
  • Connectors to enter the panel and the metal box (match the cable type)
Here is the message this expensive guy told me,

"You need to add a new circuit with a sub panel. Then add new outlets. Just changing the breaker to a larger one will not work. The existing wires are only rated for the size breaker they are on. Just up sizing the breaker will cause the wires to overheat and could start a fire"
Then he said
"We could just add a few dedicated outlets if the panel outside is that close. You are looking between ?900 and ?1200. Without being there to see it. But it will be done right."
 

Blissfarms2020

Active Member
Your real problem is gonna be access to the sides of the panel to get wire in and out since it's finished work (drywall and stucco). If you are up to figuring that out and how to run the wire then proceed. If I were in your shoes I would hire a sparky to run the 30 amp "dryer"outlet that matches your cord plug and also run a dedicated 20 amp 120 volt receptacle for the AC. If required another 20 amp 120 volt feed with a few receptacles placed for fans and shit.

Check the top two spaces on that sub panel (take the cover off) and make sure they are real and there is a buss bar behind there to stab into. sometimes they have a cover with more spaces than the bus and it's odd to fill from the bottom up. Just wanna make sure. You may have to take and consolidate some circuits using tandem space saver breakers (if available for your panel) 4 circuits into 2 spaces and free up two adjacent ones for the new breaker.

Here is a basic list of stuff you will need:
  • 30 amp double pole breaker that matches your box type (Square D, Homeline, Siemens), it will take two spaces
    • you can't use a single space with a tandem or "space saver" breaker as that's on the same phase when stabbed. They can however be used to consolidate 120 volt circuits to free space.
  • #10 wire
    • 10-2 if a three prong or 10-3 if a 4 prong, they don't count the bare conductor
    • the cable type depends on how it's ran, non metallic (NM) for in walls and for exposed you can use metal clad (MC) with surface mount clips or conduit and THHN/THWN conductors.
  • 30 amp receptacle that matches the cord end
  • Surface mount metal box
  • Cover for box that fits receptacle
  • Connectors to enter the panel and the metal box (match the cable type)
Yea ill give in and pay someone but not 1200 bucks. Lol
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
"You need to add a new circuit with a sub panel. Then add new outlets. Just changing the breaker to a larger one will not work. The existing wires are only rated for the size breaker they are on. Just up sizing the breaker will cause the wires to overheat and could start a fire"
True.

"We could just add a few dedicated outlets if the panel outside is that close. You are looking between ?900 and ?1200. Without being there to see it. But it will be done right."
Yes, if you have the space for more circuits in the panel, those looked pretty full.
Yea ill give in and pay someone but not 1200 bucks. Lol
Good move.

Here is what I have done for my grow, lol. Glad I pulled 125 amps too.

20190127_173533.jpg20190127_173522.jpg20190127_173547.jpg
 

HashBucket

Well-Known Member
If you're not a sparky, you gonna need one.
My advice is to find someone you trust. Ask your fellow local growers, ask at the grow store ...

I have a guy ... I called once, all out of breath. On SUPER BOWL SUNDAY and he came over and fixed it. (Didn't miss any of the game either). It was worth whatever I needed to pay ... plus I sent him home with a case of beer.

The day will come when you need someone RFN. Prepare for it.
 

Jypsy Dog

Well-Known Member
Yeah I used to work as a sparky and to run a receptacle to plug that into isn't hard or costly unless the wire run is long or difficult. If they have to go through something that makes it require drywall repair then costs climb.
We also let you sleep at night... Firemen like us.
 

HashBucket

Well-Known Member
Electricity scares the fack outta me.
It's black magic, I am sure.
I do not mess with it ... and every time I do, I pick myself up at the other side of the room.
I don't understand it, I don't want to understand it.

I can do a lot in a grow room ,,, just about anything, except electricity.


If it doesn't work - I check to see if it's plugged in, also, I can change the bulb.
More than that? I call my sparky.
 

Clumpyoyster

Well-Known Member
Hahaha. I don't even know how much I've got in it anymore, (thanks a lot Renfro for helping me to spend even more, lol), but it's gotta be getting close to 6k now. My wife actually smokes our trim until it's gone. I just gave her the last of the Green Crack shake. When the shake is gone, she gets the nugs. She doesn't mind and doesn't have the tolerance I do. Plus the shake tastes pretty good with a desktop vape. All I can say is I've spent a lot more than I planned on, but she actually brings home the paycheck, lol.
I totally hear your story, My wife is a pothead..hence letting me take over the bottom floor of our 4 level split. I have invested probably around 2500 so far and have harvested once with great success. I did upgrades before i started the next grow but money/budget keeps me in check or I would have a 10 light Gavita room already. My theory is use what i have and do the best with it. So each grow i try to improve one aspect at least that needs improvement. Baby steps.

As far as your electrical work....are you handy with a few tools? If I were you I would at least try to figure out the rough in and have the wire already in place so that the electrician just has to come in and hook up the panels. Probably save you a few hundy.
 

Blissfarms2020

Active Member
Today they are 50 days from seed, I have topped them twice, added little netting this week, with c02 bags. Just looking to keep vegging until i get my other two lights running. The air has been on point 67/75 degrees, no bugs, hadnt seen any burning of the leafs or color changes.
 

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1212ham

Well-Known Member
Electricity scares the fack outta me.
It's black magic, I am sure.
I do not mess with it ... and every time I do, I pick myself up at the other side of the room.
I don't understand it, I don't want to understand it.
But if you understood it, you wouldn't have to pick yourself up as often. ;-)
 

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
Calling on all my fellow 4 (1000 watt) HPS growers out of their garage and Electricians who understand the business.

I have a 3 car garage and using one section for my grow tent thats 8x10. Home is brand new built 200 amp circuit for home.
How can I successfully run
4(1000 Watt HPS light
AC unit
Carbon Fan?
I want the safest way possible but not trying to spend 1k on electrician.
Let me pull up a chair... I want to know too... have a basement I'm thinking of converting...
 

Clumpyoyster

Well-Known Member
Make sure you don't wait to long, those bitches are gonna stretch once you start flowering. Some strains double in height. |What strains you running?
 

HashBucket

Well-Known Member
But if you understood it, you wouldn't have to pick yourself up as often. ;-)
Yea, but I am too afraid of it to get too close to be able to learn ... everybody has their own phobia's I guess.

There are some things that I don't want to know. I'll hire a pro.

Had someone tell me the other day. "I am afraid of guns. I don't want to be around them, but I think I should be able to protect myself living way out in the country. Should I get a gun anyway?" My answer was "No. Find a different way."
 

Blissfarms2020

Active Member
Make sure you don't wait to long, those bitches are gonna stretch once you start flowering. Some strains double in height. |What strains you running?
Yea man I am trying to get that electrician here once i do that im clipping few clones and flipping them. White Widow, Girl scout cookie, blue dream, and Alaskan purp
 

Clumpyoyster

Well-Known Member
Yea man I am trying to get that electrician here once i do that im clipping few clones and flipping them. White Widow, Girl scout cookie, blue dream, and Alaskan purp
they look nice dude good job make sure you post your updates I want to see this grow room after
 
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