Spidermite!!! Help!
- Thread starter Leeeh
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Bear420
Well-Known Member
HOTSHOT Pest Strips But read Precautions about staying in room to many hours with them out. I used a zip lock baggie while I was in with them. I tried all kinds of things to get rid of them and could not until I used the Hotshot pest strip. Gone now and have't seen one in a very long time.Any one help me out.? Cheers
Don't take Clones and for Pete's sake do not let anyone in your area. those things died in less than a week and I left it in to kill any eggs a extra few and have not had any come back.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
I thought those are toxic, don't they say not to use where you make / store food and shit?
Bear420
Well-Known Member
No they don't , but the do say don't stay in room with them for more than 4 hours at a time, the can cause congestion, but so can many other things I have had no effects from them, except all my mites have been gone now. I didn't hurt anything I am aware of, But like I should of said read Precautions on back of package.
Moldy
Well-Known Member
I tried neem oil for mites but was not effective so I tried Nuke 'em. It's food safe but pricey. Says you can use on harvested bud for mites and powdery mildew also. I did find some more mites just lately but I'm not sure if they're a new colony or I missed some eggs or something. I may try those HotShot strips at this point.
Bear420
Well-Known Member
I do know they worked for me, I have had no bad effects from them. I had no mites again and I tried everything under the sun to rid myself of those little bastards, Like I said you should read precautions on back, I only kept mine open when I wasn't in the room i would put them in a ziplock and work then when done take them out. They worked well and killed all eggs and bugs.
Best of luck if you would keep me posted if they work for you too. So at least I'll know they worked for someone else too.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
yeah but your plants are in the room and you are gonna consume those, I will pass. Definitely a reason that others aren't using them.
Bear420
Well-Known Member
Well to each their own, I had no ill effects at all, it did nothing but get rid of Mites and fast and they never came back, It certainly didn't hurt any flavor taste or anything.
If you choose not to use them fine that's your right, But if others that you seem to think are not using them, Not sure where you are getting that from but I am sure some have and have had great results from them, I just got sick of trying things others kept telling me about and it didn't work for me, These Did I have and had no issues since. I've been doing this for well over 30 years and one or two times in those years had an issue and tried lots and this worked fast and had no ill effects. I am sure that there's something bad in every bug invasion preventive measures, I used those they worked I was happy, if you choose not to fine let's leave it at that. if others want to try them they can read the precautions and use accordingly.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
Just for those that are interested in the Hot Shot strips.
Hazards to Humans and Domestic Animals
WARNING: May be fatal if swallowed. Do not get in mouth. Harmful if inhaled. Causes moderate eye irritation. Avoid breathing vapors. Avoid contact with eyes or clothing. After prolonged storage, a small amount of liquid may form on strip. Do not get liquid in eyes. Wash thoroughly with soap and water after handling and before eating, drinking, chewing gum, using tobacco, or using the toilet. Remove and wash contaminated clothing before reuse. Do not use in hospitals or clinic rooms, such as patient rooms, wards, nurseries, operating or emergency areas. Do not use in kitchens, restaurants or areas where food is prepared or served. Do not use in homes except for garages, attics, crawl spaces, and sheds occupied by people for less than 4 hours per day. Not to be taken internally by humans or animals.
FIRST AID
If swallowed
Hazards to Humans and Domestic Animals
WARNING: May be fatal if swallowed. Do not get in mouth. Harmful if inhaled. Causes moderate eye irritation. Avoid breathing vapors. Avoid contact with eyes or clothing. After prolonged storage, a small amount of liquid may form on strip. Do not get liquid in eyes. Wash thoroughly with soap and water after handling and before eating, drinking, chewing gum, using tobacco, or using the toilet. Remove and wash contaminated clothing before reuse. Do not use in hospitals or clinic rooms, such as patient rooms, wards, nurseries, operating or emergency areas. Do not use in kitchens, restaurants or areas where food is prepared or served. Do not use in homes except for garages, attics, crawl spaces, and sheds occupied by people for less than 4 hours per day. Not to be taken internally by humans or animals.
FIRST AID
If swallowed
- Call a Poison Control Center or doctor immediately for treatment advice.
- Have person sip a glass of water, if able to swallow.
- Do not induce vomiting unless told to by a Poison Control Center or doctor.
- Do not give anything by mouth to an unconscious person.
- Move person to fresh air.
- If person is not breathing, call 911 or ambulance, then give artificial respiration, preferably mouth-to-mouth, if possible.
- Call a Poison Control Center or doctor for further treatment advice.
- Hold eye open and rinse slowly and gently with water for 15-20 minutes.
- Remove contact lenses, if present, after the first 5 minutes, then continue rinsing eye.
- Call a Poison Control Center or doctor for treatment advice.
GrowRijt
Well-Known Member
My homemade pest Mgt. spray.
In a standard 24oz spray bottle.
10oz Filtered or low Ppm tap water
4oz hydrogen peroxide. Standard 3%
4oz isopropyl alcohol 91%
1 tsp soap - dr bronners peppermint or dawn.
spray whole plant including underside of leaves near lights out. Repeat once every 5 days to a week.
Alcohol and H2o2 are oxidizers and dehydrators. Mites / aphids are a soft body insect that easily burn and die from these concentrations. No harm to plants. Can use in conjunction with safer garden soap alternating.
used this on a plant totally infested with aphids and they are all dried carcasses within a week.
In a standard 24oz spray bottle.
10oz Filtered or low Ppm tap water
4oz hydrogen peroxide. Standard 3%
4oz isopropyl alcohol 91%
1 tsp soap - dr bronners peppermint or dawn.
spray whole plant including underside of leaves near lights out. Repeat once every 5 days to a week.
Alcohol and H2o2 are oxidizers and dehydrators. Mites / aphids are a soft body insect that easily burn and die from these concentrations. No harm to plants. Can use in conjunction with safer garden soap alternating.
used this on a plant totally infested with aphids and they are all dried carcasses within a week.
Bear420
Well-Known Member
This is the best thing to do it you can stay on top of it. I used the same thing, but was not able to stay on it and it did work, but I guess I wasn't staying on that regiment enough and they came back, But I do agree this will work with persistence.
This is a Great Recipe and it works if you keep it up.
HashBucket
Well-Known Member
I been using Plant Therapy for a year or so, with great success.
Ya just gotta follow directions to the letter.
It's an oil and soap recipie. Mint oil, olive oil and soap (I think)
There's a couple of products like that out there, Green Wash I think is another?
I spray twice a week, every week. Tuesday and Thursday.
This week with PT.
Next week with Spinosad.
(PT doesn't affect thrips, Spinosad does. Spinosad does not treat spiders, PT does)
Ya just gotta follow directions to the letter.
It's an oil and soap recipie. Mint oil, olive oil and soap (I think)
There's a couple of products like that out there, Green Wash I think is another?
I spray twice a week, every week. Tuesday and Thursday.
This week with PT.
Next week with Spinosad.
(PT doesn't affect thrips, Spinosad does. Spinosad does not treat spiders, PT does)
Bear420
Well-Known Member
I found this old post from years ago. thought it could shed some light. Neem can be bad anything can be if used improper.
Hot Shot Pest strips are an old trick that never fails if used correct .. I began using them in the early 90s and learnt of them from Zoologists of all people ... Reptile and Bird mites are very destructive like there relatives we know so well .. I had a large reptile breeding facility and mites attacked my reptiles fierce while embedding themselves under scales and in time my Pythons and Dragons would have died from the plague ..
I tried alot of methods that failed and wound up speaking with the leading Vet at the local Zoo and he instructed me to speak with the Herp keepers there about his method using Pest strips .. I was instructed to keep a piece of a strip in a perforated container or more according to cage size ... I was amazed when in 3 days my facility was free from the little feckers and my animals healthy again ..
Thats when I realized this would work for other mites , I have been using them when needed in the grow room and have never looked back , the active ingredient Dichlorvos is rarely ever found in lab samples and if it is by the time a second test is ran it will evaporate off the surface of such tested material . My lab friend has never seen this in any of his years of med testing but found remnants of other shit people use ..
Bottom line you have to do the math as stated above and fumigate the room usually more than once and may need to buy several replacement strips as they loose there initial strength in a few days , I throw them out after 4 days ...
Got mites and nothing else has worked now and they are SuperMites ? Follow this thread and youll be mite free in no time .. The Dichlorvos attacks the mites and works evertyime if used properly , the little feckers will start spinning and falling on there backs in no time if used as advised .. Below is some info to straighten the Idiots who will speak otherwise with no education themselves .. Might as well know the facts yourself ..........
Dichlorvos or 2,2-dichlorovinyl dimethyl phosphate (Trade Names: DDVP, Vapona, etc.) is a highly volatile organophosphate, widely used as an organophosphorus insecticide to control household pests, in public health, and protecting stored product from insects. It is effective against mushroom flies, aphids, spider mites, caterpillars, thrips, and whiteflies in greenhouse, outdoor fruit, and vegetable crops. It is also used in the milling and grain handling industries and to treat a variety of parasitic worm infections in dogs, livestock, and humans. It is fed to livestock to control bot fly larvae in the manure. It acts against insects as both a contact and a stomach poison. It is available as an aerosol and soluble concentrate. It is also used in pet collars and "no-pest strips" as pesticide-impregnated plastic. In this form it has recently been labeled for use against bed bugs
The United States Environmental Protection Agency first considered a ban on DDVP in 1981. Since then it has been close to being banned on several occasions, but continues to be available. Major concerns are over acute and chronic toxicity. There is no conclusive evidence of carcinogenicity to date, however a 2010 study found that each 10-fold increase in urinary concentration of organophosphate metabolites was associated with a 55% to 72% increase in the odds of ADHD in children.[SUP][1][/SUP]
Dichlorvos is absorbed through all routes of exposure. Since it is an acetylcholinesterase inhibitor, its overdose symptoms are weakness, headache, tightness in chest, blurred vision, salivation, sweating, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and abdominal cramps.
Dichlorvos damages DNA of insects in museum collections.[SUP][2][/SUP]
I am purely a fictitious character , perhaps of your own mind . All things said and done here are purely for entertainment purpose and are random acts of the Internet itself . Understand this too, is only an illusion , Thank You for your Confusion .
Hot Shot Pest strips are an old trick that never fails if used correct .. I began using them in the early 90s and learnt of them from Zoologists of all people ... Reptile and Bird mites are very destructive like there relatives we know so well .. I had a large reptile breeding facility and mites attacked my reptiles fierce while embedding themselves under scales and in time my Pythons and Dragons would have died from the plague ..
I tried alot of methods that failed and wound up speaking with the leading Vet at the local Zoo and he instructed me to speak with the Herp keepers there about his method using Pest strips .. I was instructed to keep a piece of a strip in a perforated container or more according to cage size ... I was amazed when in 3 days my facility was free from the little feckers and my animals healthy again ..
Thats when I realized this would work for other mites , I have been using them when needed in the grow room and have never looked back , the active ingredient Dichlorvos is rarely ever found in lab samples and if it is by the time a second test is ran it will evaporate off the surface of such tested material . My lab friend has never seen this in any of his years of med testing but found remnants of other shit people use ..
Bottom line you have to do the math as stated above and fumigate the room usually more than once and may need to buy several replacement strips as they loose there initial strength in a few days , I throw them out after 4 days ...
Got mites and nothing else has worked now and they are SuperMites ? Follow this thread and youll be mite free in no time .. The Dichlorvos attacks the mites and works evertyime if used properly , the little feckers will start spinning and falling on there backs in no time if used as advised .. Below is some info to straighten the Idiots who will speak otherwise with no education themselves .. Might as well know the facts yourself ..........
Dichlorvos or 2,2-dichlorovinyl dimethyl phosphate (Trade Names: DDVP, Vapona, etc.) is a highly volatile organophosphate, widely used as an organophosphorus insecticide to control household pests, in public health, and protecting stored product from insects. It is effective against mushroom flies, aphids, spider mites, caterpillars, thrips, and whiteflies in greenhouse, outdoor fruit, and vegetable crops. It is also used in the milling and grain handling industries and to treat a variety of parasitic worm infections in dogs, livestock, and humans. It is fed to livestock to control bot fly larvae in the manure. It acts against insects as both a contact and a stomach poison. It is available as an aerosol and soluble concentrate. It is also used in pet collars and "no-pest strips" as pesticide-impregnated plastic. In this form it has recently been labeled for use against bed bugs
The United States Environmental Protection Agency first considered a ban on DDVP in 1981. Since then it has been close to being banned on several occasions, but continues to be available. Major concerns are over acute and chronic toxicity. There is no conclusive evidence of carcinogenicity to date, however a 2010 study found that each 10-fold increase in urinary concentration of organophosphate metabolites was associated with a 55% to 72% increase in the odds of ADHD in children.[SUP][1][/SUP]
Dichlorvos is absorbed through all routes of exposure. Since it is an acetylcholinesterase inhibitor, its overdose symptoms are weakness, headache, tightness in chest, blurred vision, salivation, sweating, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and abdominal cramps.
Dichlorvos damages DNA of insects in museum collections.[SUP][2][/SUP]
I am purely a fictitious character , perhaps of your own mind . All things said and done here are purely for entertainment purpose and are random acts of the Internet itself . Understand this too, is only an illusion , Thank You for your Confusion .
Bernie420
Well-Known Member
Waste of money and your local shop wants to sell you shit you dont need and doesnt work.Thanks for ur input
thousands of threads about spider mite control.
Moldy
Well-Known Member
Just thought I'd mention I went back for a closer inspection and found a few dead mites. Just to be sure I cut off 20 or so lower buds (close to harvest) and inspected closely with a loupe on a brightly lit table and found nothing. So I was wrong, the nuke em worked but I'll still be looking for a cheaper alternative.
DailyBlastin
Well-Known Member
Thankfully ive only ever gotten spider mites once (knock on wood) but what my guru (guy who got me into growing) told me was to fill the bathtub with a mild soap-water solution, take the whole plant and start dunking it repeatedly, if you can help it dont soak your rootmass too much but do get it wet and make sure you dunk that sucker enough to wash every little nook and cranny of the plant itself. again thankfully, when it happened to me i was already about a week away from harvest, felt so wrong to be dunking all those beautiful buds but it saved the crop, certainly wasnt the best smoke but was better than losing that 4oz or so.
Moldy
Well-Known Member
After two treatments with neem and then the 2-3 treatments with Nuke Em I still have mites. One plant even hermed from the shock of the treatments. Found a baby mite yesterday. Pulled the plant and harvested so as not to infect the new bunch I just put in there. I'll be trying the Hot shots as it's in a garage with good venting and I'm sick of looking for the bastards. Even with a loop my old eyes have a hard time seeing them. I won't be accepting clones from other places now.
Kronicle420
Well-Known Member
Ph your water to 2.5 and spray it on the leaves of the plants, that will kill them off. You can do this quite a bit if needed
420_Graze_It
Active Member
2.5?! That's more acidic than vinegar. Guaranteed to burn the leaves.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
WAY too low. VERY bad advice. One thing that you want to consider when applying a low pH foliar spray is the potential for powdery mildew. End up trading one problem for another. PM likes the acidic environment, thus why many treatments for PM are alkaline in nature.
Repeatedly applying "weak sauce" remedies can become a recipe for powdery mildew if you also have times of low RH%. So it becomes important for those in dry climates to keep the humidity from bottoming out. Powdery mildew loves the low RH% alternating with high RH%. In flower these repeated foliar applications can also cause bud rot.