Prawn Connery
Well-Known Member
Hey mate, @PSUAGRO. asked the same question above. Seoul Semi told @Grow Lights Australia 50K, but he reckoned at least 30K going by Nichia specs.
Sunlight has about 5% on average – though the level of UV varies depending on all the usual factors – so it's probably about right. You could use more, but would you run it for the full 12-hour cycle? And if not, would there be a big difference between 12% UV 4-6 hours a day and 5% for the entire 12 hours?good job
do you think 6% uvb is much of a uvb test?
Yes mate, weed is def more potent / sticky.good job
do you think 6% uvb is much of a uvb test?
good reply..Sunlight has about 5% on average – though the level of UV varies depending on all the usual factors – so it's probably about right. You could use more, but would you run it for the full 12-hour cycle? And if not, would there be a big difference between 12% UV 4-6 hours a day and 5% for the entire 12 hours?
Well two of the tents had UVB + UVA. One had UVA and near-UV with no UVB. And the control tent had no UVB, UVA or near-UV.good reply..
test had lights with no uv with uv..my post was about ... a test using white leds with just uvb and no uva
..so you could see what effect it has on its own
My money would be on the UVA, but I'd want to get some near-UV (around 420nm) in there too.I currently am running qb 288 Rspecs.. Wondering what of these I may want to add into my 5x5? the far red I shouldnt need because the R spec boards right?
So would one of these https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/all/products/hlg-30-uva-supplement be enough to go with my two 320w rspecs? https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/kits/products/320w-xl-qb-v2-led-kitMy money would be on the UVA, but I'd want to get some near-UV (around 420nm) in there too.
If the l70 data is accurate, that's generally good for the life of the board+beefy mcpcb..... Nice jobHi PSUAGRO, we don't have L70 data on the Seoul Semiconductor STW9C2PB-S Sunlike LED however the Nichia NF2W757GT-F1-E Optisolis uses a similar "purple pump" (420nm) and it has an L70 of 30,000 hours according to the data sheet. The original Sunlike LED's had a 405nm pump but this was revised to 415nm prior to first High Light production. This changed the spectrum a little (as you can see below) but it increased the efficiency of the LED by around 10% and Seoul Semi also said it increased the life of the LED (but didn't give a lifetime estimate).
I have also asked Seoul Semi if they can provide the figure for you. L70 testing is done on 1.6mm FR4 with 0.07mm copper trace (2oz copper) and we use 2mm aluminium PCBs with 2oz copper, so the better thermal conductivity will help with LED life.
OK edit. Seoul Semi have just replied to me and stated
Here you can see subtle differences between the Test Board (405nm Sunlike) and the Production Board (415nm Sunlike) spectra.
Test Board
View attachment 4435991
Production Board
View attachment 4435990
Well I'm guessing one of those should be about right for two 320W kits, as they appear to be designed to pair with the HLG-550 kits. I would hang it in-between the 320s at the same height.So would one of these https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/all/products/hlg-30-uva-supplement be enough to go with my two 320w rspecs? https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/kits/products/320w-xl-qb-v2-led-kit
and what do you recommend for figuring out distances from canopy with these?
If buying just one of the UV-A lamps would be enough that is great they are expensive! I would love to get more flavor and potency and if 150$ will get me it I would like it alot, just not sure the best route to go
also do you only use the uv-a during flowering?
those high lights are cool but I can't invest any more money into lights except maybe small supplementals I have no space where I am now.
As we know, there are always variables and more tests are better. But at least these results appear to correspond with other scientific data that show the same. And I think you saw the grow in question, so you know it was done pretty well. He tried to match PPFD as close as he could, among other things.If the l70 data is accurate, that's generally good for the life of the board+beefy mcpcb..... Nice job
I would like to see hydro run with control, so watering habits don't skew. But that's me nitpicking...
Hey, you sure seem to like those Nichia 5000K. I think I've answered the same question in the other thread, but can you tell us why you think Nichia 5000K make such good flowering lights? And are you talking about Nichia's Optisolis? Because if you are, then they are only a 100mA LED and about 45% efficient.Why didnt you use Nichia 5000k. It has the same red colors and better blue spectrum. Maybe, than can produce near UV too.