Need Information on Cal/Mag Deficiencies When Using Led Lights

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
@hybridway2 have you explored using different PH levels instead of adjusting nutes?

Not sure why you allow yourself to lose plants when you know the problem can be resolved quickly by switching out the LED to HID.

Happy New Year!
Another way is using alternative feedings with different PH, i think gml was doing that. One for general hydro, one slightly higher for magnesium.

Cant vouch though...
 

hybridway2

Amare Shill
How could you lose plants due to a calcium deficiency? You see the deficiency, fix the problem, done. It's one of the easiest deficiencies to spot and correct for.

And no there is no "LedDefficiency", it's just that passive uptake is a little lower due to lower transpiration rates since the plants tend to be somewhat colder under led lights (less direct heat from leds compared to HPS/sunlight). Which can also be "fixed".
To me losing a plant is fighting to keep her healthy. Never am i losing whole plants to the trash. Who said a Calcium Calcium defficency?
Sounds good but Has not been that simple. Currently doing a SBS in the first 1/2 of veg only between Jacks & GH.
Hoping to save money, have a better or at least more consistent grow.
I'm aware of this heat/IR info./debate. Personally i do Not find raising ambient to solve much of anything. My plants love flowering at 78•. & when above 82• seams to increase my Defficencies (if that strain is effected at all).
Some argue the leds themselves are Deficient. Others say its the plants that are deficient due to higher demand then most nute lines are designed for. Which then makes the nutes deficient.
Then you got your VDP deficient rooms or under-charged CoCo. Oh,Oh, my favorite, there's the Deficient Grower (that'd be me in this case) who is just so ignorant that for some reason he/she Cannot seam to dial all of the above at once, starting with an abundance of Bro-Science to begin with.
All i know is the plants that are not doing so well are the ones that look like they have every defficency in the book. Throwing nutes to fix what looks to the grower as every defficency out there only locks up your plant ir burns it or both. Running multi-strains, if you lock out one then another will be the one to get burnt usually. No burn, just yellow or pale.
Wait, hold up. Forget i wrote any of that.
There's only 2 words to describe it.
Either A: Circle Jerk
Or B: LedDefficiency
Can it be fixed? Sure it can, will & is.
Just not something to ignore & deffinetly not something we (mankind) has all the answers too.
There are plenty of great led grows everywhere. These growers have either stepped in shit & had the right info. Handed to them on a platter, ran trail n error for awhile, or are just plain lucky. Or pic only plants sthat have NP under led to run.
OMG. Wasting my time again. Should just erase it all but there will be those who
Relate or appreciate the heads up so they can be properly prepared & be one of those immediately successful led growers.
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
i took it DM and got out of him what he's feeding, and he's adding way too much calmag, doesnt know what ppms are going in and seems content with blaming everything else. Ive given up
At least your tried........new year, new plant problems, lol
 

hybridway2

Amare Shill
If I recall hybridway2 the problem is more pronounced in RDWC than it is in soil. Right?
Is that fly problem over hybridway2?
One species never mentioned was the soldier fly, larvae might have been in the EWC's along with the mites.
IDK about DWC & forgot what the R stood for? My issues took place in CoCo & now Pro-Mix. Some say its close enough to Hydro but i disagree due to Caution Exchange levels.
Soil growers seam to not complain much. Especially seasoned ones.
In attempt to keep the Media moist/wet enough to prevent dried salts i gained the issue of bugs in the moist media.
Using landscaping weed prevention layer on the top & bottom seams to do the trick wonderfully. Narrowed my bugs down to Fungus Gnats & Springtails only now BTW. Unfortunately i did that to one plant & the rest are covered on the top only, weighted down with medium sized rocks.
So adding Mega-Wind to the floor has eliminated the Gnats but probably throws off media temps which in-turn could technically cause LedDefficiency signs or be part of the issue for some. Springtails were eliminated using T-Drops n may have helped with ridding the Gnats as well. Of course got my yellow stickies low & now have flat double sided ones that i lay on the floor, using one side at a time rn.
Soldier Fly hu? Ill have to look into that. Thnx! The more i can identify the better. Plus EWC have been introduced to my Pro-Mix & could very well be a main contributor.
How's it Hanging over there bud?
 

hybridway2

Amare Shill
i took it DM and got out of him what he's feeding, and he's adding way too much calmag, doesnt know what ppms are going in and seems content with blaming everything else. Ive given up
That's not true & is simply your interpretation of my lack of response. Just don't have the time to discuss it any further with you as I'd just be repeating myself like a broken record to someone who is Not serious about helping.
Lol! You're too Funny man.
What does DM stand for anyways?
I know PM stood for Personal Message but then again i could be wrong seeing how so many forget what the P stands for.
 

hybridway2

Amare Shill
hybrid..bro

*******200 ppm calcium nitrate and your probs are solved..*********

...lose plants..???

we just don't get it...

Happy New Year
Added to the TechNaFlora line & Walla, all my problems are solved? Wow! How could i have missed that when the leading Bro-Science response is Epsom? Both increasing EC/PPM. Which Leads to reducing Base Nutes if i can get away with it. Usually not.
I too just don't get it.
Sure, I'm still bangin 1.5-2 gpw of top-shelf killa-illa on half the plants/strains. But what about the other half, ya know.?..
 

hybridway2

Amare Shill
@hybridway2 have you explored using different PH levels instead of adjusting nutes?

Not sure why you allow yourself to lose plants when you know the problem can be resolved quickly by switching out the LED to HID.

Happy New Year!
Yes, i have tried PH adjustments.
Refuse to give up & the results on a healthy plant with No/limited "Growers Error" are so stunning that its like being addicted to Gambling.
This current run i have gathered that the plants being feed everyday DTW are the ones most healthy & are maintaining their runn-off in a comfortable zone. Watering schedule & ability seams to play a big role in using soiless media I'm noticing.
The high PH thing (6.4-5) worked out well for most but not all.
 
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Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
To me losing a plant is fighting to keep her healthy. Never am i losing whole plants to the trash. Who said a Calcium Calcium defficency?
Sounds good but Has not been that simple. Currently doing a SBS in the first 1/2 of veg only between Jacks & GH.
Hoping to save money, have a better or at least more consistent grow.
I'm aware of this heat/IR info./debate. Personally i do Not find raising ambient to solve much of anything. My plants love flowering at 78•. & when above 82• seams to increase my Defficencies (if that strain is effected at all).
Some argue the leds themselves are Deficient. Others say its the plants that are deficient due to higher demand then most nute lines are designed for. Which then makes the nutes deficient.
Then you got your VDP deficient rooms or under-charged CoCo. Oh,Oh, my favorite, there's the Deficient Grower (that'd be me in this case) who is just so ignorant that for some reason he/she Cannot seam to dial all of the above at once, starting with an abundance of Bro-Science to begin with.
All i know is the plants that are not doing so well are the ones that look like they have every defficency in the book. Throwing nutes to fix what looks to the grower as every defficency out there only locks up your plant ir burns it or both. Running multi-strains, if you lock out one then another will be the one to get burnt usually. No burn, just yellow or pale.
Wait, hold up. Forget i wrote any of that.
There's only 2 words to describe it.
Either A: Circle Jerk
Or B: LedDefficiency
Can it be fixed? Sure it can, will & is.
Just not something to ignore & deffinetly not something we (mankind) has all the answers too.
There are plenty of great led grows everywhere. These growers have either stepped in shit & had the right info. Handed to them on a platter, ran trail n error for awhile, or are just plain lucky. Or pic only plants sthat have NP under led to run.
OMG. Wasting my time again. Should just erase it all but there will be those who
Relate or appreciate the heads up so they can be properly prepared & be one of those immediately successful led growers.
So youre running multistrain and all out of the same res/EC? That could be a big source of problem. Pls, correct me if i missunderstood :)
 

lukio

Well-Known Member
"That's not true & is simply your interpretation of my lack of response"

okay, mate, whatever you say.

Screenshot 2020-01-01 at 22.45.14.png
 
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OLD MOTHER SATIVA

Well-Known Member
Added to the TechNaFlora line & Walla, all my problems are solved? Wow! How could i have missed that when the leading Bro-Science response is Epsom? Both increasing EC/PPM. Which Leads to reducing Base Nutes if i can get away with it. Usually not.
I too just don't get it.
Sure, I'm still bangin 1.5-2 gpw of top-shelf killa-illa on half the plants/strains. But what about the other half, ya know.?..
Added to the TechNaFlora line & Walla, all my problems are solved? Wow! How could i have missed that when the leading Bro-Science response is Epsom? Both increasing EC/PPM. Which Leads to reducing Base Nutes if i can get away with it. Usually not.
I too just don't get it.
Sure, I'm still bangin 1.5-2 gpw of top-shelf killa-illa on half the plants/strains. But what about the other half, ya know.?..
was that sarcasm?

epsom is a nice additive...for nutrient uptake

200 ppms of calcium nitrate..don't worry about cal nit ppms ...

you can lower it after you plants get nice

who cares about those jug nutes..?

you still claim to have plants dying

i am trying to stop that

allthebest
 

Kushash

Well-Known Member
Yes, i have tried PH adjustments.
Refuse to give up & the results on a healthy plant with No/limited "Growers Error" are so stunning that its like being addicted to Gambling.
This current run i have gathered that the plants being feed everyday DTW are the ones most healthy & are maintaining their runn-off in a comfortable zone. Watering schedule & ability seams to play a big role in using soiless media I'm noticing.
The high PH thing (6.4-5) worked out well for most but not all.
Growers Error reminds me of @GroErr .
Hope he is OK. It doesn't sound good. I learned a lot from him. Didn't chat with him much and didn't really know him but I did learn from him.

I brought up PH because I was thinking about your soil grows.
You mention in another post that growers in general have less problems in soil and I thought you mentioned some time in the past that you also had less trouble with soil.

Try to figure out why soil is working better.

Both soil and hydro should be able to deliver the nutes needed if everything is in good order.

I have a nice buzz from edibles and had to erase a bunch of stuff about the differences between a soil grow and a hydro grow with LED like I would know from having used LED one grow with soil LOL.

Hydro of any form is going to push the plant harder vs soil.
A quality soil will adjust the PH to it's needs.

These are two areas where soil and hydro are different IMO, there are others and if you can think of other differences that matter I would explore those also.

I'm not sure if the problem is that the plant needs something more in the form of nutes.

No joking below just my 2c that is not always worth 2c.

I followed the conversation between you, HB and @lukio.
I remember lukio showing a pic of a plant that appeared to have a very minor nute burn around the edges of the leaf, turning a color that appeared white.
I agreed with HB when he suggested the problem was likely to much of something. I know the delivery of the message was not appealing.

If I go back further maybe 2 or 3 months I remember hybrid showing similar pictures with white edges except the extent of the damage was much heavier.

I'm feeling lukio may have had minor leaf damage from slightly to much of something and beginning to wonder if your case is too much of one or more nutrients.

I'm really not sure what your issue is just thinking you are pushing the plants hard to get the maximum yield.

Have you ever taken a plant with the minimum possible amount of quality LED light from start to harvest just to see the results in hydro or coco?
I think it would be a good experiment. Use the lights and the strain that you struggle with and see if you get LED deficiencies under low but healthy lighting. Just a thought.
 

wietefras

Well-Known Member
They absolutely can and do. When the roots are submerged 24/7, it's able to take what it needs.
That's nonsense. There is some active uptake and some molecules will not fit through membranes, but that's all very limited. Plants do not determine their own nutrient ratio in what they take out of the water. They receive whatever nutrients which are in the water that they take in.

It's just as important for hydro to make sure you get the right nutrient mix in there as it is for soil.

Seriously, just think about it, if that what you think was really true, you could just throw anyhing in the water. That's NOT how things work. At all!
 

hybridway2

Amare Shill
Growers Error reminds me of @GroErr .
Hope he is OK. It doesn't sound good. I learned a lot from him. Didn't chat with him much and didn't really know him but I did learn from him.

I brought up PH because I was thinking about your soil grows.
You mention in another post that growers in general have less problems in soil and I thought you mentioned some time in the past that you also had less trouble with soil.

Try to figure out why soil is working better.

Both soil and hydro should be able to deliver the nutes needed if everything is in good order.

I have a nice buzz from edibles and had to erase a bunch of stuff about the differences between a soil grow and a hydro grow with LED like I would know from having used LED one grow with soil LOL.

Hydro of any form is going to push the plant harder vs soil.
A quality soil will adjust the PH to it's needs.

These are two areas where soil and hydro are different IMO, there are others and if you can think of other differences that matter I would explore those also.

I'm not sure if the problem is that the plant needs something more in the form of nutes.

No joking below just my 2c that is not always worth 2c.

I followed the conversation between you, HB and @lukio.
I remember lukio showing a pic of a plant that appeared to have a very minor nute burn around the edges of the leaf, turning a color that appeared white.
I agreed with HB when he suggested the problem was likely to much of something. I know the delivery of the message was not appealing.

If I go back further maybe 2 or 3 months I remember hybrid showing similar pictures with white edges except the extent of the damage was much heavier.

I'm feeling lukio may have had minor leaf damage from slightly to much of something and beginning to wonder if your case is too much of one or more nutrients.

I'm really not sure what your issue is just thinking you are pushing the plants hard to get the maximum yield.

Have you ever taken a plant with the minimum possible amount of quality LED light from start to harvest just to see the results in hydro or coco?
I think it would be a good experiment. Use the lights and the strain that you struggle with and see if you get LED deficiencies under low but healthy lighting. Just a thought.
Yes I've ran low power right through. Sure doesn't take much.
When i do this its mainly because the plant didn't want as much light, showing sign of shying away or yellowing leaves.
For me this has been strain specific.
Just had to run x2 decent sized SonicFly plants under only 400w of Trinity & QB, raised high as possible just to grow them out.
Needless to say I'm sure i hit over 2+ gpw but with a large cost to go with it.
PITA to trim too.
Have not had the pleasure of running soil yet although did buy a bag of GreenTree -GrowersBlend to give one a go soon.
I've only tried a mix of CoCo-LoCo & CoCo before. Which worked great under hps as long as i didn't burn shit.
Think when i tried it under led i burnt leaves to much using my nutes as if i were in soiless media but its not exactly soiless. Should've feed 1/2 strength more.
In Pro-Mix now & going pretty well.
Just x2 SonicFly#2's did not perform as I'd hopped. The rest of the garden is A , OK!
Probably best I've seen in awhile.
Do want to figure it all out though.
I have a True Full Spectrum LED en-route & will be documenting notes on growth differences ect... UVA,B , Canna-Spec = UVL
 

DJOly

Active Member
I found this post doing a Google search after experiencing the same issues. LEDeficiency. And here's my experience so far. Growing with Jacks Nutrients, I had to increase the mag slightly. I run 1.5 grams per gallon of Epson instead of the suggested 1.2. Also. Depending on the LED, Move it up further, and/or dim it down. One of the most repeated Broscience things I see is that plants grow optimally with 800-1000 ppfd. In my 8 years of growing with CO2 and completely dialed in VPD, I can tell you anything over 750ish was pushing my plants to their maximum. Anything over 800 and they would display multiple nutrient deficiencies. That is 750 ppf at peak flower. I'm currently growing in a room with 12 HLG550v2s and I find I have to keep them at 30 inches above the top cola AND they are dimmed to 65% using a Trolmaster. (a 1000w Gavita in a open enviroment at 36 inches puts down a par of around 450 center of the light according to par maps ive found online) The ironic thing here, is before I switched to HLG 550s, I tested LEDs doing a 8 strip Samsung Strip build at 2.1 amps drawing around 770 watts. I had 2 plants that stretched up to about 2 inches away from the strips and never shown any signs of light burn or deficiencies. (well over 1200 ppfd at that proximity). Last but not least. Increase your room temps to 82-86 degrees. Growing with HIDs I kept my room at a nice cool 76, which gave me a leaf surface temp of around 80-81. I find now I had to increase my room temp about 8-9 degrees. With my room at 83-85 degrees, my leaf surface temp fluctuates between 75-81 (yes.. almost 8 degrees colder than ambient)
 

DJOly

Active Member
Just a quick update, so you know that I know what I'm talking about. I attached some pictures to show the size of my plants, and the color. I just got done defoliating, so there aren't many fan leaves, but I took an up-close picture of what I could. The picture of one of my 15ft botanicare rolling benches contains 8 plants per 4x8 (I previously ran 6 plants per 4x8) I lied about what lights I run. The 4 in the middle of the room are HLG 600h, the 8 on the sides are hlg550s. It was only after purchasing the 600s did I realize they were too powerful for my room, and I have them hung about 33 inches from the tallest colas. The HLG 550s are hung about 26-27 inches away from the top cola. All lights are dimmed to 65%. this gives me roughly 650ppfd in a 2ft square from center of the light, and around 450ppfd out to the edges on all 3 trays. My current room temp at 80 degrees is my swing low, my swing high is around 83-84, I personally don't like it to get hotter than that. And for those of you who said that you can't grow good weed with LEDs. I'll note the tray I photoed here I averaged 1.25 lbs per plant with 6 plants in a 4x8 (and room in between each plant). Assuming I get the same numbers now. I'll pull 20lbs on 16 plants in a 4x15 area under 4 HLG 550s (I know I said 600s, but I raised them higher to keep the ppfd levels the same as the 550, ill be switching out the drivers next grow) 20lbs = 8960 grams. 480w at 65% = 312w x 4 = 1248w. 8960/1248 = 7.17 grams per watt.

If I could do it over again. I'd go with 16 slate3s with 3 qb288s each, and HLG 320h-1750 drivers, Space the lights roughly 24 inches on center for an even spread covering a 12x16 grow area. 24 inches above canopy, and adjust dimmer until my ppfd was around the 700 range. (obviously dimmer in veg). I feel like this would give you the most even coverage with insane efficiency.
 

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