I have a water distiller down in the basement but it uses a lot of power to make distilled water so we buy our RO water in town for $3.50Can/20L jug. Surely you must be able to buy reverse osmosis water in Jolly Olde England?Perhaps, upon the next reservoir change tomorrow I will use distilled water since that only means I'll have to buy an electric water boiler. But for today, I'll be shitting my pants as I hope the LST plant's stem will survive...
Well I would and do...just not past 3rd week of flower....my plants love it.I have a water distiller down in the basement but it uses a lot of power to make distilled water so we buy our RO water in town for $3.50Can/20L jug. Surely you must be able to buy reverse osmosis water in Jolly Olde England?
As long as there is still a connection thru the break the plant will be fine. I often deliberately roll the stem hard between my fingers to soften it then let the tops flop over when they stretch up too high and the colas grow fine even if the stem splits open.
I wouldn't be spraying milk on your plants. Good way to get something nasty growing on them. Dilute CalMag is OK to foliar feed with but I never spray my plants with anything unless I find bugs.
To raise my ppm I just add small amounts of the nutrients to the tank to raise the ppm. I know from experimentation that if I use 1ml/L of all 3 of my 3-part nutrients I get 300ppm so if I want to raise my ppm 150 points then I'll add 0.5ml/L of each to move it up 150. No need to mix it up first as it'll mix up in the tank. I use different sizes of syringes to measure accurately but kitchen measuring spoons are good enough.
First top up with water. If using tap water take into account it's ppm. Allow it to mix for a while, 15 min or so, then test the ppm and add more nutes if needed to stay at the target level you want or to raise the ppm for the plants as they grow and need more.
It's a balancing act that depends a lot on your humidity. If the RH is low the plants drink a lot more water so you should have a lower ppm so they don't overload on nutrients, (salts), and cause nute burn. If the RH is high then they drink much less water and need a higher ppm so that they consume enough to maintain their growth.
Light is also an important factor. With strong light they can utilize higher nute levels but need lower levels if the light is not so strong.
They also use carbon dioxide to grow so either fresh air needs to be brought in often or CO2 needs to be artificially supplied. Massive growth rates can be realized with increased CO2, nutes, light and temperature but it's like souping up your car and driving really fast all the time. Exciting yes but the chances of a serious crash are greatly increased. lol
With hydro, serious crashes are more likely to be fatal so mind how you go.
Good luck.
That not metric. That's percentage. If you add 1 part 50g*3 and then add 50g*7. You could also say 30 and 70%. This is very basic math. The part can be whatever you want it to be. Easier way to explain mixing things in recipes etc.I'm European and don't understand non-metric, what is a part??
Well no idea because my ape-brain focused on fighting with the new shiny pH meter. But right now is the time where I really need to focus on getting the girls ready for flowering, for which I will purchase a new timer tomorrow since the current one is poo-poo. I removed the LST string from the trained plant to allow her to focus onto vertical growth entirely since I'm running out of horizontal space.Well they do look better,the AN calmag is high in N so go lightly.Do a side test ad 1ml/litre water see what ppm u get.Around here we use the GH CALiMAGic 1~0~0 its more for hydro.
Yeah overall they look good, by friday I'm going to flip the light cycle to 12/12 when the small 15CM fan and new timer are in action, at that same day I'll debate whether or not to hit the plants with the foliar booster or wait until the buds have begun to form, since the desired effect is maximised yields.Almost time to flip. Looking good man!
Lookin'great.Ya temps fine.With led you want it warm with lights on.Watch.humidity in the dark period.Are you gonna make a scrog?This will help the overall yield.Temp note though
During lights on the temperature is around 23-24°C and at lights out it stands around 18-19°C, once the fan arrives the daytime temp might drop a tad but point is to ask if y'all think this current temp fluctuation is acceptable for flowering?
I'll probably make a SCROG on the same day I make the switch, since the tent has solid aluminum tubes as a frame I can just run the rope through it to make a tight net with zip ties holding each corner in place, each eye of the net will most likely support each specific site unless I want to go the extra mile by making the whole net for whatever reason I'm either forgetting or lazily ignoring.Lookin'great.Ya temps fine.With led you want it warm with lights on.Watch.humidity in the dark period.Are you gonna make a scrog?This will help the overall yield.
Youll be glad you did,really helps with training.I'll probably make a SCROG on the same day I make the switch, since the tent has solid aluminum tubes as a frame I can just run the rope through it to make a tight net with zip ties holding each corner in place, each eye of the net will most likely support each specific site unless I want to go the extra mile by making the whole net for whatever reason I'm either forgetting or lazily ignoring.
Okay I have been fighting with the pH and the PPM after diluting is around 540-550 but I've also kept an eye on the night time humidity level now, it's at 78-79%... I imagine that's terrible for flowering when I make the switch of light cycles...Youll be glad you did,really helps with training.
Ya. That’s high. Aim for 50. And the last two weeks you’ll want even lower.Okay I have been fighting with the pH and the PPM after diluting is around 540-550 but I've also kept an eye on the night time humidity level now, it's at 78-79%... I imagine that's terrible for flowering when I make the switch of light cycles...