Get your Geek on and control your grow room with Arduino!

[OldMedUser]

ESP8266s instead of Arduinos.

How's that work? I was just going to order a 2nd knock-off Arduino that has good reviews, and a couple of those esp6366s and the 822s?

Where does a guy get those little PC boards that you can mount your own stuff on. I need a couple of small ones for that circuit for my colloidal silver generator. I've seen the copper clad ones but not the pinstripe tape stuff for covering the conductive bits you want to keep after etching. They used to make a liquid like WhiteOut you painted on, let dry for a bit then dunked in the etching fluid. I see a couple of pre-made ones in a couple of your pics last page @Timezone. Everything I click on Amazon.ca says can't ship to my location. Coming from China and a lot of electronic and computer stuff Amazon won't ship from there. Might have to rip a TV or something apart and grab a piece there.

Supposed to finally get those current limiting chips I need for the project.

And what is that Node-Red stuff all about?

 

[TrippleDip]

Unless you all think that my best bet is to jump in and learn as I go?

Yes. Your crash course is V=IR and everything basic is just that reordered. Imho, you will get further with a goal that you can work towards and learning as you encounter obstacles. Just not giving up when things don't work out is the key - you will fry many devices before you will consider yourself intermediate, and then you will probably fry even more.

 

[TrippleDip]

I've been working on something similar for my grow. Decided to go with the raspi, basically have two four outlet electrical boxes side by side. The first has the relays, the second has 8 outlets. Used the 7" touchscreen display in portrait mode for basic functionality. Four screens which can be swept between. First is a history of the temp and humidity displayed over 1,2, or 7 days. I used the dht22 for the sensor.


Second is the main screen and displays from top to bottom: The date and time. Readings from the three temp/humidity sensors and the min/max since the last reset. A button for resetting the min/max to current values. A list of the current relay states - a tap on the on-off button turns the outlet on or off. Tapping the name, allows you to customize the name. The two bottom devices are variable voltage out with 5 speeds for my pwm fan controller. Bottom of the screen is a list of rules that are executed from top to bottom. The "i" beside the one rule means it is currently inactive


The rules can be added or edited in a simple dialog.


Last two pages are calendars. Text can be added to the days and the title can be changed by tapping on them. The calendars can be loaded and saved for future reference. Two calendars because 4 plant limit = 2 plants in veg and 2 in flower always.


I can upload the code/schematics somewhere if anyone's interested. Also for the pwm motor controllers, and for a dosimeter/nutrient liquid dispenser. But if you're tech savvy I basically used the max595 to shift out to the relays or resistor ladder for the variable voltage out. This allows the pi to be power cycled without losing the outputs momentarily. The goal is to build a power manager / power supply that can be in communication with the pi and that either can reset the other if things go weird. The dosimeter is literally the circuit from the 555 datasheet on the back of a relay x 4.

 

[TrippleDip]

We need to talk about time and how it's handled on the various microcontrollers, SOCs (System On Chip)
and SBCs (Single Board Computer).

NTP, ie update over wifi and forgo the clock was the solution I used.

I've wore out 3 soldering pencils in the past year myself...

soldering pencils?

I got kits mailed to me when I was eight or ten, one a month for several months. Neat projects like a cat's whisker radio, wind your own motor and run it on a lemon, nickel plating a penny, that kind of kit. I hadn't thought about those... I guess that was my first introduction to electricity, although now that I think of it, there was an earlier event... something to do with a fork and an outlet. Buy the kits if you have the money, especially if it has projects or instructions for the different components. I wouldn't buy kits that are just a bunch of parts that you'll never use. I gave two Unos to a couple of kids I know, for Christmas, maybe stir up some interest in a new generation. @OldMedUser, I can't wait for you to get your Mega.

By the time I graduated high school, back when old school was new, I was a stoner with an old motorcycle and freedom. I've grown cannabis off and on since then and about two years ago had to stop. While I have been waiting for the zone I live in to catch up, I've built a wireless control system for the original specifications shown above (except the water chiller and a water heater), as well as wireless automatic watering system for seven plants. I am working on a version for hydroponics as that's where I shine. It's the same control without the soil sensors, pump, etc., but including the water chiller/heater controls, as well as water level, automatic feeding and ph controls. There may be more features in the future.

I don't know it all by far but I've come a long way in a year and I'm excited. I'm now using C/C++ that the Arduino IDE uses to program the ESP8266s, Python for the Pi, and MQTT and Node-RED.

View attachment 4455831
This is one of my wifi controlled boxes before being labeled. Each outlet is individually controlled and rated (by me) 120Vac 15A 1800W (total) from plug, through box, to outlets. You plug this into the wall and plug two devices, such as an 1500W heater and air conditioner into the two outlets, set a few limits on the Pi and let it run.

View attachment 4455838
This is the inside with an ESP8266 controller and power supply on the green board, and the relays below.

View attachment 4455841
This is the black box containing all the sensors and seven soil moisture sensors on 1M cables (not shown).

View attachment 4455851
and the inside...

View attachment 4455855
and the Node-RED on the Pi.

Later...

That is a very nice solution, the waterproof boxes look like something you would find in industry.

 

[Mak'er Grow]

Good to see more people having an interest in these projects and welcome @TrippleDip
Nice idea, but when soldering 300 LEDs I don't think its very practical...600 solder points...lol
I'd probably spend more buying pencils then an actual soldering pencil.

Thats a nice setup you have made. I hope to create a similar device, but it will be a little more limited mainly due to smaller and cheaper parts I'm using...lol
I'm still learning the programming/coding side of the touch screens, but I have figured out how to show different screens depending on where its touched (now that just sounds wrong...lol)...next I may try to figure out swipes, but I'm not sure where I'd use it in mine...yet.
My device is just doing a few basics for now until I get more time to do the code side of things...I go researching for one thing and end up learning how to teach elephants sign language some how.

 

[OldMedUser]

Found a place in Winnipeg that sells copper clad PC boards for not much. $10 will get me enough to do a dozen of the little circuits I need for my 4 component circuit. Then I need the circuit transfer sheets to print the circuit on then use an iron to stick it to the copper. Pack of 10 - 8.5 x 11" is $25. One sheet would make me a dozen boards. 500ml bottle of etching fluid is another $15 then shipping another $20 probably. I want to make one little board about 2x3" for fug sake!!



Did a little looking around on the web and skip the etching fluid, acid will do. I have conc. sulphuric and nitric acids so that's covered. I can make aqua regia with that and it'll eat almost anything.

Still need something to mark out the lines and we used to use stuff like pinstripe tape and little circle ends to stick on where you wanted to leave copper. Those sheets. Way overkill.

Found this real ghetto circuit board a guy did with tinfoil, tape, piece of plastic to stick the lines of foil on to make a simple flashlight. Goofy as hell but it worked. Then the proverbial light bulb went off over my head and I remembered some copper foil tape used in stained glass making stuck in the back of a drawer in the workbench in the shop. Strong adhesive, temperature resistant backing on copper foil. 4 rolls in the drawer with 7/32(5.56mm) being the thinnest and still wide compared to normal lines. I figure I can use it on some hard, thin non-conductive material like a piece of countertop formica. Going to be a lot bigger than a nice neat PCB but I betcha I can make it work.

EDIT: Just after I posted this I tried cutting an 8" strip lengthwise and it was dead easy so just shrunk my PCB a bunch.



I have this cool little battery powered Cold Heat soldering iron with this really fragile looking double electrode tip. Both ends have to be in contact with the copper and solder to cause them to heat up and fuse. I bought it years ago and never got around to using it. Was $30 I think.



My chance to bust a tip and end up with a useless tool now eh @Mak'er Grow ! lol



I'll fall back on old faithful if that gizmo won't do it. Bought this for a grade 8 electric class project to make a kit that would flash lights in time to the music. Got an A+ for it and used to sit down in the basement at home with my buddies all tripping on 'cid and zoning out on the 3-D lights grooving with Jimi or the Doors. 23.5W and I can plug it into my variac to control the heat but used to use an 80W iron with that tape back when I did stained glass. Been using it to melt extra holes in those flimsy 3" pots my little plants are in so need to re-tin it. Get it hot and stick it in my one pound tub of flux and once clean put a drop of solder on it. I stole that tub from grade 8 metal shop class.



I'll take pics of the build once my LM334Z chips get here with my Arduino Wednesday maybe.

 

[Dougnsalem]

.......soldering pencils?

I need to go back and start at the begining of the thread again. Man, lots of great info. I just have to say- I've done tons of electronic stuff over the years, and I've never seen the pencil deal done before. That's hilarious!!! I am going to remember it though. I have a major problem finding an iron, when I need one..... Lol

 

[spek9]

Oh I know I will for sure. I bought 2 tiny cameras that run at 3.3 and the little bit of reading I have done on them says they run at 3.3...so when I get to them I'm sure its either buy more/new or use converters...lol
And something about non-fifo...would have to go back and re-read, but they aren't needed yet.

In many cases when you need to shift voltage in a circuit, you can use a simple voltage divider instead of a transistor or voltage level shifter. A voltage divider means nothing more than adding a couple of resistors to your circuit. You can learn about them right here.

I just started viewing this thread yesterday. I've been engineering and building things (grow room automation, home security, community-based water purification systems etc) with Arduino, ESP, Raspberry Pi etc for several years, and will likely become more active in this forum.

I've written libraries in several languages for dozens of microcontrollers, SBCs, sensors and ICs of all types, so I'll do my best to help out here whenever I can.

 

[HolyAngel]

This looks really promising! Great work so far!

On a side note tho, have you seen this?

Reddit - Dive into anything

www.reddit.com

 

[Timezone]

How's that work?

Get to know your Mega first and I'll show you.

Where does a guy get those little PC boards that you can mount your own stuff on?

Try an Amazone search for PCB breadboard, I'm going to try these next as I think they will be easier to work with.

And what is that Node-Red stuff all about?

Node-RED is a programming tool that I use to connect everything wifi, together. It's probably on your Pi.

 

[Timezone]

I've been working on something similar for my grow. Decided to go with the raspi

Good to have another Pi fan, welcome @TrippleDip.

That's a nice interface, Python?

I can upload the code/schematics somewhere if anyone's interested.

I'm interested but it's probably too early. How many lines of code? Pictures?

But if you're tech savvy I basically used the max595 to shift out to the relays or resistor ladder for the variable voltage out. This allows the pi to be power cycled without losing the outputs momentarily. The goal is to build a power manager / power supply that can be in communication with the pi and that either can reset the other if things go weird. The dosimeter is literally the circuit from the 555 datasheet on the back of a relay x 4.

You must be into this stuff more than I am! Is max595 a 74HC595? and I know what a 555 is...

As far as NTP, Network Time Protocol, I was referring to time keeping on the devices without network access. Counting seconds and/or milliseconds to time things on say, the Mega. One of the earlier request from @OldMedUser was a controller with no connection to the internet.

That is a very nice solution, the waterproof boxes look like something you would find in industry.

Thanks, that's what I'm shooting for.

 

[Timezone]

Good to see more people having an interest in these projects and welcome @TrippleDip
Nice idea, but when soldering 300 LEDs I don't think its very practical...600 solder points...lol
I'd probably spend more buying pencils then an actual soldering pencil.

Thats a nice setup you have made. I hope to create a similar device, but it will be a little more limited mainly due to smaller and cheaper parts I'm using...lol
I'm still learning the programming/coding side of the touch screens, but I have figured out how to show different screens depending on where its touched (now that just sounds wrong...lol)...next I may try to figure out swipes, but I'm not sure where I'd use it in mine...yet.
My device is just doing a few basics for now until I get more time to do the code side of things...I go researching for one thing

It is good to see more people, isn't it? and thanks, I seldom put the money into the extras like cases and lasered cutouts and labeling, but I want to take this project all the way.

 

[Timezone]

Found a place in Winnipeg that sells copper clad PC boards for not much. $10 will get me enough to do a dozen of the little circuits I need for my 4 component circuit. Then I need the circuit transfer sheets to print the circuit on then use an iron to stick it to the copper. Pack of 10 - 8.5 x 11" is $25. One sheet would make me a dozen boards. 500ml bottle of etching fluid is another $15 then shipping another $20 probably. I want to make one little board about 2x3" for fug sake!!

Though many years ago I etched my own boards, in the last year, I've used boards like this. You could get a kit of 50, in different sizes, from you know where. Just look at the different sizes, you could use the smallest for your 4 component circuit.

I'm going to try this type of board next for a prototyping project.

Did a little looking around on the web and skip the etching fluid, acid will do. I have conc. sulphuric and nitric acids so that's covered. I can make aqua regia with that and it'll eat almost anything.

Still need something to mark out the lines and we used to use stuff like pinstripe tape and little circle ends to stick on where you wanted to leave copper. Those sheets. Way overkill.

If it's for one board, why go through the hassle of etching?

Found this real ghetto circuit board a guy did with tinfoil, tape, piece of plastic to stick the lines of foil on to make a simple flashlight. Goofy as hell but it worked. Then the proverbial light bulb went off over my head and I remembered some copper foil tape used in stained glass making stuck in the back of a drawer in the workbench in the shop. Strong adhesive, temperature resistant backing on copper foil. 4 rolls in the drawer with 7/32(5.56mm) being the thinnest and still wide compared to normal lines. I figure I can use it on some hard, thin non-conductive material like a piece of countertop formica. Going to be a lot bigger than a nice neat PCB but I betcha I can make it work.

I bet you can, go for it, but I want pictures.

I'll take pics of the build once my LM334Z chips get here with my Arduino Wednesday maybe.

Cool!

 

[Timezone]

In many cases when you need to shift voltage in a circuit, you can use a simple voltage divider instead of a transistor or voltage level shifter. A voltage divider means nothing more than adding a couple of resistors to your circuit.

Welcome @spek9 and thanks for that tip. I've used simple voltage dividers while shifting individual 3.3Vdc digital signals to 5Vdc.

I just started viewing this thread yesterday. I've been engineering and building things (grow room automation, home security, community-based water purification systems etc) with Arduino, ESP, Raspberry Pi etc for several years, and will likely become more active in this forum.

I've written libraries in several languages for dozens of microcontrollers, SBCs, sensors and ICs of all types, so I'll do my best to help out here whenever I can.

Thanks, we can use the input/help/expertize. We are all on a path of knowledge leading towards better cannabis cultivation.

 

[Timezone]

This looks really promising! Great work so far!

Thanks and welcome @HolyAngel.

On a side note tho, have you seen this?

No, but I'll take a look... it goes on forever but something to look at guys.

 

[spek9]

Welcome @spek9 and thanks for that tip. I've used simple voltage dividers while shifting individual 3.3Vdc digital signals to 5Vdc.


Thanks, we can use the input/help/expertize. We are all on a path of knowledge leading towards better cannabis cultivation.

Thanks for the welcome!

Currently, I'm building an alarm system for when my power goes out. All of my grow tents and cabinets (other than my clone tent) are down in my basement that sits at about 50F. However, it's gotten very cold lately, so it's closer to 40F (no heat in the basement).

I needed a system to alert me if the power goes off when I'm sleeping, so that I can either bring the plants upstairs where I have gas heat, or go fire up the generator to keep the lamps and fans running. Otherwise, the plants will surely be damaged.

For this, I'm using one of my many Pro Minis. It runs off of an 18650 3.7V battery. The battery is connected to a charge controller, then to a step-up converter to 5V. The Mini is connected to the converter. When the charger is plugged in, the circuit is off, but the battery is being charged (charging stops when the battery is at capacity).

If the power to the charger is disconnected (ie. power goes out), the circuit goes live (on battery), and sounds a piezo buzzer alarm.

Because it's meant to sit on my nightstand, I've incorporated nine WS2812 neopixels in a 3x3 matrix, where you can switch between red or white illumination, and between 10 levels of brightness (using tactile switches). This "lamp" I'll be using to read in bed.

Because there's only power if the battery is disconnected, the lamp only works when the alarm technically would be going off. I put a five second delay after disconnect and before alarm, with another tactile button to disable the alarm before switching on the light. Using the light utilizes the battery so it doesn't sit stagnant forever.

When reconnected, the Mini shuts off, resetting the sketch variables, so it immediately returns to alarm mode.

Very, very simple. Today I'm migrating from the breadboard prototype to PCB. I'll be using thin, clear plexiglass as well as a tiny dollar store kitchen container to store it all.

 

[friedguy]

Welcome @friedguy, sounds like a lot of wiring involved.

Wasn't bad. Arduino ethernet shields made it easy. I could have gone wireless but I had the shields already so I got lazy. I cheat and used the CAT5 for all the I2C decives too... each of the 4 twisted pairs worked great for +5, gnd, clock and data connections. Plus I get all zen when I'm stoney and wiring.

 

[Timezone]

Cool (40F) project @spek9.

Wasn't bad. Arduino ethernet shields made it easy. I could have gone wireless but I had the shields already so I got lazy. I cheat and used the CAT5 for all the I2C decives too... each of the 4 twisted pairs worked great for +5, gnd, clock and data connections. Plus I get all zen when I'm stoney and wiring.

I got it, and I'm the same way...

 

[OldMedUser]

Try an Amazone search for PCB breadboard, I'm going to try these next as I think they will be easier to work with.

I was looking at those and wondering how they worked for connecting the different components. Do you have to use wires underneath to connect or break the copper connections where you don't want them? My ignorance abounds! lol

Anything that ships from overseas computer or electronics related Amazon won't ship. They claim it's their policy for security reasons. Tried over at BangGood and Ali and got the same notice when I clicked on things to view them. Red letters saying they can't ship this item to my location. Goes to the Post Office so that may be it but that's my only pick-up point around here. Very frustrating.

I'll have to see if I reset to Purolator or FedEx if things like that will ship OK. PITA!

This place in Winnipeg has some stuff. https://www.tiptopelectronics.com/home.asp?MENU=Chemicals&lCategory=141

Not finding a suitable substitute for my PCB but have yet to plumb the depths of the junk around here.

 

[OldMedUser]

Currently, I'm building an alarm system for when my power goes out. All of my grow tents and cabinets (other than my clone tent) are down in my basement that sits at about 50F. However, it's gotten very cold lately, so it's closer to 40F (no heat in the basement).

I needed a system to alert me if the power goes off when I'm sleeping, so that I can either bring the plants upstairs where I have gas heat, or go fire up the generator to keep the lamps and fans running. Otherwise, the plants will surely be damaged.

Welcome to the thread!

I have a similar basement grow room. Nice not to need AC and it doesn't cool off fast if the power goes out but a decent flood alarm would be top of my list. Sprung a leak just a couple weeks ago. Light bulb I was using to keep the water from freezing up in one top corner where weasels removed some insulation was resting against the plastic water line to the house and melted a pinhole in it. Patched it up with Shoe Goop, inner-tube rubber. plastic pipe over that and a couple hose clamps. Holding fine but water was all over the floor down there. Bought a small alarm that sits on the floor but can't hear it upstairs. Pressure tank is 30 years old and if it blows then I got real problems. It's all below the water level of my dugout and the basement could fill to the top. Would need scuba gear to fix that. lol

Stupid wall mount fan won't come on when plugged into my light timer power bar. Have to push the power button if the power is interrupted so I think I can open it up and just bypass the power switch then it should turn on when the timer flips on the light. Another PITA.