jimihendrix1
Well-Known Member
If you use it only to treat a room, don't put it on your weed, use goggles, and a respirator when you apply it, and don't breathe it Id like to know how its harmful?
Help spider mites
- Thread starter South_buff
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Justkickinit420
Active Member
Tou know how plants uptake nutrients thru the stoma, human will “uptake” sprays thru their pores.
These nutrients leave a residue that can be picked up over and over.
Safest to stay away from all harsh chemicals, educate yourself on the active ingredients of said chemicals in those sprays and their material handling data sheets
jimihendrix1
Well-Known Member
One of them being to stay out of the room for at least 12 hours after application, use a respirator, and goggles, which you should do with any chemicals. Pyrethrin included. Which is considered safe, but still can poison you.
Ive had vast failures on natural methods to totally rid really bad infestations in a room.
Ive had vast failures on natural methods to totally rid really bad infestations in a room.
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Justkickinit420
Active Member
My question is why let it get really bad though? Hate to see how you react to root aphids if those poisons are your go to
jimihendrix1
Well-Known Member
Dude, I said not to use them on your plants. Harvest the plants, and then treat the room. Not the plants, or soil.
If I was going to kill root aphids, Id use Beneficial Nematodes.
If I was going to kill root aphids, Id use Beneficial Nematodes.
Justkickinit420
Active Member
If you treat the room then residue is everywhere sir, does not evaporate.
Justkickinit420
Active Member
Use bleach water
jimihendrix1
Well-Known Member
Bleach is chlorine.
Chlorine is a deadly poison.
Chlorine is a deadly poison.
Justkickinit420
Active Member
Bleach is what is used to clean and sterilize.
Anything is a poison if used in abundance.
What you are suggesting to use could be deadly, of course bleach can be also.
You don’t see hospitals spraying those chemicals there, but they do use bleach
Anything is a poison if used in abundance.
What you are suggesting to use could be deadly, of course bleach can be also.
You don’t see hospitals spraying those chemicals there, but they do use bleach
JesusFreakier
Member
I agree with OldMedUser. Any chemicals used must be applied so strong to be effective that it kills or heavily damages most of the leaves and ruins yield. NEVER cut early, will make you so so sad, and without any buzz to comfort you.
Nothing stunts a plant and limits yield like losing leaves early ! ! ! Do NOT do it, unless you are growing so many you cannot inspect each plant every 2 days, or better every day. P R E C I S I O N - R E M O V A L is the best battle plan after prevention. Do not enter your grow room in street clothes, Take a shower and change clothes ! ! ! Do not grow so many plants that they all must touch each other. They can spread 10X faster that way. I had to enter my place walking under a tree that had Spider Mites floating on long webs as the breeze blows. This is how they get around. I hate these little suckers so much !
Mite Hunting Procedures:
-Use a Microscope Eyepiece backwards for ultra high magnification. Use a swing arm drafting lamp and a 100W Equal CFL Lamp. Get heights of everything comfortable, or fatigue will impede your success. BTW - Microscope Eyepieces are THE BEST tool to allow you to Photograph right into the open end of the upside down eye piece, because the rays there are all parallel, and do not converge or diverge. Your camera can be any distance away from the eye piece. Oh my God the super magnification possible. I'll try to photo something this way for you soon.
-Shine light through each and every leaf and scan then undersides, ANY shadows from top side, turn leaf over and investigate it; mites sometimes sense danger and run from bottom side to top side of leaves. The CAN crawl almost as fast as an Ant when they want to. They can climb a plant from bottom to top in an hour. You will never be able to detect Mites on the highway of stems and branches, so inspect leaves at levery 2 days to win this battle.
-IF you find an adult Mite, it will have 8 legs, no longer 6. It has laid eggs for sure. 1 in 3 Mites are hermorphidites and need no mate at all. TAKE that WHOLE Fan Leaf OFF. Same if you see any black spots of Mite Poop; take off that whole fan leaf. It has stayed there long enough to indicate extreme risk for that leaf. Do a Reflected light inspection for Clear Sphere Eggs that you cannot see with light shining through from top to bottom. Mark that location with a twist of green twist tie so you can focus on nearby leaves for the spread of Mites.
-IF you see a single younger mite, remove with IPA soaked Q-Tips. Try not to cut off leaves or blades you do not need to remove. Hurts yield and vigor much.
-Take notes for each plant. How many single mites did you find? How many legs did they have? How many multiples found on a single blade or single fan leaf, who probably mated? How many blades did you remove? How many whole Fan Leaves? Mark each risk indicated branch with a twist of green wire tie.
Note as buds develop, Mites are impossible to completely eradicate, but you CAN keep them under control so not to lose your harvest. Too many hiding places in the buds to get them all off your plants. So take out their orgies, and any multiples take that whole fan leaf off. Do not allow them to breed!
Plants can handle this kind of precision leaf removal veg loss far better than any treatment sprays I have tried.
Oh ya, I have sprayed plants with 90% IPA Top and bottom. Burn the leaves bad, and you should evaporate it right back off with a strong fan immediately if you have done this. Young leaves can endure much without damage. Mature leaves are prone to damage from anything. I have sprayed H2O2 for White Power Mold, and learned Mite Massacre 1/2 strength is 100% effective at eliminating White Powder Mold, and does not hurt even the older leaves.
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South_buff
Active Member
Ny it's on medical n it's only Edibles.. oils .or Vape
South_buff
Active Member
My colas have become weak thru the process also today I accidentally broke on theres it cleaned and what the trichomes look like
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jimihendrix1
Well-Known Member
Thyey use Avid in greenhouses, on tomatoes.. Also again not saying to use it on plants
AVID insecticide/miticide can be used for control of tomato psyllids at a rate of 30 mL product per 100 L water. It is recommended that the application should be made preferably in 2,000 – 4,000 L of water per hectare. The pre-harvest interval for greenhouse peppers and tomatoes is three days.
AVID insecticide/miticide can be used for control of tomato psyllids at a rate of 30 mL product per 100 L water. It is recommended that the application should be made preferably in 2,000 – 4,000 L of water per hectare. The pre-harvest interval for greenhouse peppers and tomatoes is three days.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
What does it say on the back? Should mention toxicity somewhere or at least a warning label or a list of ingredients.
Moflow
Well-Known Member
I haven't a container to hand but I've just found out it contains pyrethrins ...... are they bad?
Moflow
Well-Known Member
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
Not bad at all. The spray may irritate your throat a bit if inhaled but not harmful to anything but bugs. It's extracted from chrysanthemum flowers/plants. The Safer's End All concentrate I use has that as well and I just add some canola or neem oil to it at 10ml/L. Way cheaper and the same thing as that too. $14 for 500ml of concentrate that makes 10L or $13 for one liter of the pre-mix. Hell of a deal.
Safer's is Potassium salts of fatty acids 20% and 0.2% Pyrethrins. Soapy stuff that works OK on it's own but the addition of canola oil helps to suffocate the bugs. Doesn't kill eggs tho so that's why you need multiple treatments so you kill any that hatch before they get mature enough to start laying eggs of their own.
More toxic sprays should kill everything with one treatment but I've never heard of anyone getting by doing only one. Most say use different types of toxic sprays each treatment because they develop resistance to just one but it takes many generations for an organism to begin to develop tolerance to a chemical so that's just bro-science. The stuff you have there and the Safer's kills by suffocation and nothing can develop resistance to that ever.
Just make sure to be consistent about doing them every 4 days for at least 4 sprays and you should get rid of them. I wasn't and it took me two years of screwing around and mites all over the plants at harvest so heed my warning!
Moflow
Well-Known Member
Persistence is the key. This time around I used sb plant Invigorator, twice, to kick the shit outta them, then 3/4 days later introduced the Phytoseiulus persimilus predators. I like them. I've used them a few times over the years as well as thrip predators. The same company had a fantastic spray concentrate yrs ago but it was took off the market, probably cause you didn't know what was in it.Not bad at all. The spray may irritate your throat a bit if inhaled but not harmful to anything but bugs. It's extracted from chrysanthemum flowers/plants. The Safer's End All concentrate I use has that as well and I just add some canola or neem oil to it at 10ml/L. Way cheaper and the same thing as that too. $14 for 500ml of concentrate that makes 10L or $13 for one liter of the pre-mix. Hell of a deal.
Safer's is Potassium salts of fatty acids 20% and 0.2% Pyrethrins. Soapy stuff that works OK on it's own but the addition of canola oil helps to suffocate the bugs. Doesn't kill eggs tho so that's why you need multiple treatments so you kill any that hatch before they get mature enough to start laying eggs of their own.
More toxic sprays should kill everything with one treatment but I've never heard of anyone getting by doing only one. Most say use different types of toxic sprays each treatment because they develop resistance to just one but it takes many generations for an organism to begin to develop tolerance to a chemical so that's just bro-science. The stuff you have there and the Safer's kills by suffocation and nothing can develop resistance to that ever.
Just make sure to be consistent about doing them every 4 days for at least 4 sprays and you should get rid of them. I wasn't and it took me two years of screwing around and mites all over the plants at harvest so heed my warning!
I bought other concentrate spidermite killer a few times from Poland, one spray was enough but can't get it now.
EU has banned loads of insecticides over the years.
We can't get Spinosad here. I've used it too when a mate got a few containers from the states, done the job.
Sulphur smoke bombs, I've used them too lol
JesusFreakier
Member
Mite inspections every other day probably should be every day for me in the last week until harvest as I found mites had halo'd one top cola in webs as I brought it out to inspect. I looked up to see the silouettes of 25 adult mites lounging in their web hammock on top of my main cola ! ! ! S H I T ! ! ! Lost at least an ounce of fine tasting bud. Two days before I failed to see deep inside the colas of this smaller skeletor plant of OG Kush with nice tight buds. So risky going with any crop with even one single mite. The not taken over OG Kush's have 2 or 3 days more until harvest and Scarlett Johansson's need 3 to 6 days more until fully cloudy.
Vegging1/2 Gallon pots are being inspected every 2 days and taking longer and longer to inspect as they get bigger. Last 6 every other day inspections of these vegging plants in a different area under two 400W Equal CFL's yielded:
clean,
clean,
clean,
UNCLEAN x1 adolescent mite, still round with 6 legs Vs. 8,
clean,
UNCLEAN x 1 young adult 8 legged.
This is my only chance to get to 0 mites before flowering starts. I best start DAILY inspections. If I cannot get rid of them, they SHOULD NOT BE FLOWERED. Hmmm. Prevention Vs. cure? If I could see where they were coming from, I could win this battle. I assume I carry them in as I enter under a tree that may be infected, or that eggs are "Over-Wintering" while temps in the 70's (F), and hatching much later than the usual 3 days after attached to a leaf. They can be anywhere, but the small crawling round eggs with 6 legs are so slow. They must find a plant before they starve. If only some light source would fluoresce mites. Blacklight LED flashligh is only good for seeing how much pee you are splashing around the toilet and for bed bugs.
Please tell me OldMedUser, does Mighty Mite Control trash the leaves in Veg like Might Massacre does? Pisses me off. M'M' only real value is for fighting White Powder Mold at 1/2 strength, and that will not torch the leaves at least.