Mag/calcium deficiency?

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
Offer a website or something that people can get hands on training via email.Offer all the side nutes you need so I can just get them from you.Books well they sit on a shelf,I have a few but its just easier to come to places like this.
I love books, the feel, the look and the ability to slowly pour over them, forward and back. I'm so old. I think you maybe more realistically modern; a website. Charge a subscription for access and help and then link text and video.
 
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Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Someone said calcium carbonate was not soluble and advised calcium sulphate as a calcium source. You have a different view?
Ca carb is in a top pH up
Ca carb is the source for CALi MAGic

In my soils I run Oyster shell, powdered eggshell, and gypsum. Lots of ca carb there. It supplies the plant with what it needs but, does a far better job of pH control then other Ca compounds
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I love books, the feel, the look and the ability to slowly pour over them, forward and back. I'm so old. I think you maybe more realistically modern; a website. Charge a subscription for access and help and then link text and video.
Don't have a server, don't want a server. Don't care to rent space on a server or from a server farm.

I also have enough BS from trolls now....Don't need more.

I have to admit. I gave Sub Cool some shit to his face on several things. He lost a good part of his strains when other breeders took back their strains that Sub was working.... He didn't like me or that much. After he set up his pvt site. Several old schooler, mutual friends gave me their invites to the site. I submitted my real personal info and Sub caught that. He never even responded, other then to send me a trolling email on me getting his work "repossessed".
Tried to tell him that was not my doing......Now he's gone. I wish I hadn't taken such a hard line on my views about "layering" but, it is what it is.

RIP Sub

No, I don't need internet stress... camera's, recordings,,,FAH!
Now books,, I can do that....(Just have to apply myself. AND find the time)
 

SamWE19

Well-Known Member
Right so I’ve used 0.2g /l of gypsum and 0.25g/l of Epsom salt yesterday and I had some more calcium/magnesium deficient leaves today.

Should I give it a bit more time or up the dosage of those?
 

SamWE19

Well-Known Member
In other news my house of hydro fogger arrived today... even with a 6 site fogger I can’t get my humidity above 60% my ac units must be draining a shit ton of humidity out of my air
 

SamWE19

Well-Known Member
I’ve literally doubled the dosage of gypsum and Epsom salts that was recommended on the previous post here and I’m still getting what seems to be a calcium or magnesium deficiency I’m at 800 ppm now. (X500) I’ve literally never had this before it’s weird as hell

Can you overdo gypsum/Epsom?
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
Ca carb is in a top pH up
Ca carb is the source for CALi MAGic

In my soils I run Oyster shell, powdered eggshell, and gypsum. Lots of ca carb there. It supplies the plant with what it needs but, does a far better job of pH control then other Ca compounds
I agree with using calcium carbonate in a living soil. For hydro, I haven’t seen reports of it working. As for CaliMagic, they added nitric acid and something else, I’m guessing acetic acid, to get and hold the Ca into solution at a safe pH.

Since I enjoy kitchen chemistry, I would be unfazed by the task of dissolving powdered lime. I don’t recommend that for learning growers, as stuff like cal-mag and gypsum are available and cheap.
 

SamWE19

Well-Known Member
I agree with using calcium carbonate in a living soil. For hydro, I haven’t seen reports of it working. As for CaliMagic, they added nitric acid and something else, I’m guessing acetic acid, to get and hold the Ca into solution at a safe pH.

Since I enjoy kitchen chemistry, I would be unfazed by the task of dissolving powdered lime. I don’t recommend that for learning growers, as stuff like cal-mag and gypsum are available and cheap.
Can you burn with too much gypsum and Epsom?
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I don’t know. I hope @Dr. Who or another heavy hitter weighs in on this.
You bet your ass you can!

You can over do anything. Over doing many things will get in trouble with other things it reacts to fast..

NEVER, EVER mix Epsom straight into any soil!

Gypsum is a little harder to fuck up with. Powdered is easy to but, I kinda like prilled in my soil mix's. Just "cook" the soil for the whole 30 days and it adds great S availability.
 

SamWE19

Well-Known Member
You bet your ass you can!

You can over do anything. Over doing many things will get in trouble with other things it reacts to fast..

NEVER, EVER mix Epsom straight into any soil!

Gypsum is a little harder to fuck up with. Powdered is easy to but, I kinda like prilled in my soil mix's. Just "cook" the soil for the whole 30 days and it adds great S availability.
I’m in hydro No soil to speak of.

This deficiency is driving me nuts
 

SamWE19

Well-Known Member
Show me pics....
Give me what you feed-include brand of
all supplements used
temps and RH
pH range you hold

Make the pics of the effected area and of the whole plant.

I'll be able to help with exactly that....
I have used veg+bloom base nutrients for ages now and it’s always been fine. I’d feed and watch the ppm daily and let it drop 10ppm over 24 hours and keep topping up.

I upgraded my room sealed it up added co2 and upgraded my lights and run the room warmer at 30c (that’s the only change)

Now when I was using my base nutes the Ec wasn’t going down and I was having what seemed to be calcium deficiency and also nute burn at same time.

Advised earlier in this thread to try gypsum and Epsom salts so I did that and added around 50ppm calcium and 25pm magnesium.

I was still getting the deficiency so I Uped it to 100PPM calcium 50ppm magnesium.

With base nutes added I now have 720ppm and it climbed again over the last 48 hours to 750.

My tried and true method of watching the EC and if it goes up I’m feeding too much and if it goes down seems to have gone out the window. As I feel like I have calcium deficiency and nute burn at same time... and my leaves look nitrogen deficient but my nutes have 8% nitrogen.

I currently have 50% humidity maintained with dehumidifiers and 600ppm co2.
 

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Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I hate EC... I'm an old school guy. Everything is ppm's to me.
Figure all my synthetic feeding by feed NPK per part and measure ml of product to hit my NPK goals.

Metering run off is NOT a good way to meter what the soil is doing, or the plant.
You don't meter run off for pH so why would you for EC or ppm? to many factors to influence the outcome.

You didn't mention pH the pH of your feed solution's or water at plain watering's (if you do that)...

I see some possible pH issues starting - could be related to what i say next but what do you meter your solutions to?

Hmm, Here's a thing that swings all sorts of change in how you feed and the plants grow.

You added Co2 enrichment to your op!

You just changed how much the plant uptakes for needs... It doesn't know what or how much your feeding. It only changed how much it uptakes for the new demands of increased Co2.
You now have to redial in the strain again....
Also, 50% RH and gassing at 1K ppm is too low..
To hold closer to proper dial in's. You should be running a high temp and a high RH - upper 80's for temps and upper 70's for RH. This fits the vapor pressure to the increase in Co2. It now allows the plant to use the gas efficiently - MORE efficiently then you are now. All part of balancing the whole environment.

The best way to control gassing temps/RH ,,, is to use an Environmental controller... I like the inexpensive AutoPilot one.
Simple and effective...

If you can get away from Gypsum and Epson. Far better for you. Many bottled Ca/Mg are enough - period. They are balanced and have the FE to make each work better.

So what are you in? Soil?
Again - Whats the in going pH value of the solution?

I built stand alone buildings to work.. I set them up as "sealed". Keeping in mind the whole thing was going to be under EV control. Lights came on and the gas turned on the meter got it to my set point and the temps and RH climb. Once at my stop point. The EV controller shuts down the gas - turns on the AC and exhaust. This runs till another "set" point and it shuts down everything, turns the gas back on and goes through the whole thing over and over till lights out.
At lights out, she cycles the AC and RH again. Till lights on again.
 

SamWE19

Well-Known Member
I hate EC... I'm an old school guy. Everything is ppm's to me.
Figure all my synthetic feeding by feed NPK per part and measure ml of product to hit my NPK goals.

Metering run off is NOT a good way to meter what the soil is doing, or the plant.
You don't meter run off for pH so why would you for EC or ppm? to many factors to influence the outcome.

You didn't mention pH the pH of your feed solution's or water at plain watering's (if you do that)...

I see some possible pH issues starting - could be related to what i say next but what do you meter your solutions to?

Hmm, Here's a thing that swings all sorts of change in how you feed and the plants grow.

You added Co2 enrichment to your op!

You just changed how much the plant uptakes for needs... It doesn't know what or how much your feeding. It only changed how much it uptakes for the new demands of increased Co2.
You now have to redial in the strain again....
Also, 50% RH and gassing at 1K ppm is too low..
To hold closer to proper dial in's. You should be running a high temp and a high RH - upper 80's for temps and upper 70's for RH. This fits the vapor pressure to the increase in Co2. It now allows the plant to use the gas efficiently - MORE efficiently then you are now. All part of balancing the whole environment.

The best way to control gassing temps/RH ,,, is to use an Environmental controller... I like the inexpensive AutoPilot one.
Simple and effective...

If you can get away from Gypsum and Epson. Far better for you. Many bottled Ca/Mg are enough - period. They are balanced and have the FE to make each work better.

So what are you in? Soil?
Again - Whats the in going pH value of the solution?

I built stand alone buildings to work.. I set them up as "sealed". Keeping in mind the whole thing was going to be under EV control. Lights came on and the gas turned on the meter got it to my set point and the temps and RH climb. Once at my stop point. The EV controller shuts down the gas - turns on the AC and exhaust. This runs till another "set" point and it shuts down everything, turns the gas back on and goes through the whole thing over and over till lights out.
At lights out, she cycles the AC and RH again. Till lights on again.
I’m in hydro, no run off, no soil. Just constant direct access to the water supply

The RH isn’t perfect atm but that shouldn’t affect the ability to have a healthy plant. It won’t be the most efficient but I only have my co2 At 600ppm for this reason atm. And the burner is rarely on as I’ve been working in the room most days and I bump it to 600 just by breathing.

The deficiency/burn that I am having just doesn’t make sense .

The reason I’m using gypsum/Epsom is because I can’t get cAlimagic where I am from and the other cal mags are high in nitrogen.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I’m in hydro, no run off, no soil. Just constant direct access to the water supply

The RH isn’t perfect atm but that shouldn’t affect the ability to have a healthy plant. It won’t be the most efficient but I only have my co2 At 600ppm for this reason atm. And the burner is rarely on as I’ve been working in the room most days and I bump it to 600 just by breathing.

The deficiency/burn that I am having just doesn’t make sense .

The reason I’m using gypsum/Epsom is because I can’t get cAlimagic where I am from and the other cal mags are high in nitrogen.
So if you can. Find a way to lower the N in the main nutrient and use the Ca/Mg product.

Um, how often do you do a complete dump and refill?
 

ismann

Well-Known Member
Looks like Ca deficiency to me. Too much light can also cause Ca to get used up quick. pH below 6 can also lock out Ca so it's good to vary the pH within hydro range (5.7-6.3).
 
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