DIY with Quantum Boards

Chip Green

Chip Green

Well-Known Member
So far, so good with the Elite 96 board, running on the 133mm pre drilled heatsink, on a HLG-120H-54A driver.
The room it hangs in, runs at 80+ F.
I managed to keep the heatsink measurement under 50C(cheapo IR gun) up to 110W draw(Kill-a-watt) without dedicated fan pointage.
The driver itself, when cranked up to full nuts, draws near 170W with a single Elite 96 :o.
To keep the heatsink temps( cheapo IR gun, shot down the middle, multiple shots fired) below 60C a dedicated fan was needed, sitting right on top of the pins.

I was assured the pre drilled holes, below the board, were of no consequence, by appropriate authorities.

So, what I concluded in my marginally haphazard testing, is that an Elite 96 board, can run within reasonably acceptable temps, on a 133mm COB pre-drilled heatsink, up to 110W draw, in a 80F room, passively.....
 
Barristan Whitebeard

Barristan Whitebeard

Well-Known Member
Chip Green said:
So far, so good with the Elite 96 board, running on the 133mm pre drilled heatsink, on a HLG-120H-54A driver.
The room it hangs in, runs at 80+ F.
I managed to keep the heatsink measurement under 50C(cheapo IR gun) up to 110W draw(Kill-a-watt) without dedicated fan pointage.
The driver itself, when cranked up to full nuts, draws near 170W with a single Elite 96 :o.
To keep the heatsink temps( cheapo IR gun, shot down the middle, multiple shots fired) below 60C a dedicated fan was needed, sitting right on top of the pins.

I was assured the pre drilled holes, below the board, were of no consequence, by appropriate authorities.

So, what I concluded in my marginally haphazard testing, is that an Elite 96 board, can run within reasonably acceptable temps, on a 133mm COB pre-drilled heatsink, up to 110W draw, in a 80F room, passively.....
Click to expand...
Nice man! Glad it's working out so far.

Have you been able to gauge your board temperature at either wattage?
 
Chip Green

Chip Green

Well-Known Member
No, actually I'm unlear on exactly how to get an accurate measurement for that.
It's really only been running at minimum, (50w draw) as a supplement on a plant that is on death row.
 
SCJedi

SCJedi

Well-Known Member
Anyone have a Meanwell driver die on them yet? I just came home and have a dead 480h-2100b. LUCKY for me I had a brand new one waiting to complete my new light. I swapped them out and all is well again.
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
I had a 2 year old 320H-C2800 die. Meanwell has a 7 year warranty and all you need is the serial number to get an RMA.

SCJedi said:
Anyone have a Meanwell driver die on them yet? I just came home and have a dead 480h-2100b. LUCKY for me I had a brand new one waiting to complete my new light. I swapped them out and all is well again.
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T

ThatKidiscrying

Active Member
Barristan Whitebeard said:
Awesome man, good luck!

I don't own any QB 120 V2, but I do have 8 of the QB 132 V2. Each board powered at 65-70 watts will cover about four square feet in veg and two square feet or just under in flower. Are you growing in tents or an open room?
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In a tent and in a open room. Open room for now.

I also told you wrong ! I have four 132v2’s running on a HLG-320H-C2100A Not on a HLG-320H-C2800A

So that’s why it’s working and the forward voltage is high enough. The C2800 is only good for 114v in CC mode, like you pointed out to me.

That’s 144v volts with four 132v2’s at 36v each.

The 132v2’s are good for 2000ma so I can just dial back my C2100A driver to just under 2000ma from the 2100ma.

I also confirmed today that AC current matches DC current., my test meter doesn’t measure DC current. So I measure AC current and that will match the DC current.

So if I’m pulling 2.1 ac amps at the wall that means I’m roughly pulling 2100ma DC......minus the little bit of current the driver used to invert the power from ac to dc.
 
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T

ThatKidiscrying

Active Member
With the HLG constant current drivers it’s easy to add up the voltage of your boards....then pick a driver that covers that range of voltage, then if the output current can be dialed down to match the boards your using by up to 50%.

for example if my driver will run between 96v and 114v and has an 50% adjustable current output of 2100-1050......I can just dial the current down to what I need. Multiply board voltage by how many boards you have and make sure that total falls within the drivers capability.

I finally figured that shit out for myself......now I can match drivers to boards correctly in series anyway with that series driver from Mean well.
 
T

ThatKidiscrying

Active Member
Anyone know the max current rating in milliamps for these far red pucks from rapid Led ?
The voltage is 12v but I’m wanting to run a few of them off one driver so I need to know the max current.

www.rapidled.com

Far Red Initiator Puck

.
www.rapidled.com www.rapidled.com
They’re rated at 7 wattts and 12v so I’m coming up with 583 milliamps. Anyone can verify ?
 
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Barristan Whitebeard

Barristan Whitebeard

Well-Known Member
ThatKidiscrying said:
Anyone know the max current rating in milliamps for these far red pucks from rapid Led ?
The voltage is 12v but I’m wanting to run a few of them off one driver so I need to know the max current.

www.rapidled.com

Far Red Initiator Puck

.
www.rapidled.com www.rapidled.com
They’re rated at 7 wattts and 12v so I’m coming up with 583 milliamps. Anyone can verify ?
Click to expand...
That puck contains four Cree XP-E2 far red diodes wired in series. Those diodes have a forward voltage of about 1.8 volts(this can vary depending on bin) at 350 mA and a forward voltage of about 2.15 volts at 1amp which is the maximum drive current of the XP-E2.

The driver that comes with that puck will power the far red chips at 700mA.
 
T

ThatKidiscrying

Active Member
Barristan Whitebeard said:
That puck contains four Cree XP-E2 far red diodes wired in series. Those diodes have a forward voltage of about 1.8 volts(this can vary depending on bin) at 350 mA and a forward voltage of about 2.15 volts at 1amp which is the maximum drive current of the XP-E2.

The driver that comes with that puck will power the far red chips at 700mA.
Click to expand...
What would you use to drive 4 of them ?
How about a HLG-60H-C700a ? It’s 2v overpowered tho
 
SCJedi

SCJedi

Well-Known Member
pop22 said:
I believe it was about a week
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Thank you. I called Meanwell who told me to call the vendor (Allied) The vendor redirected me to the local office who said they would look into the 7-year warranty claim and then never called me back. I am glad to hear it was only a week.
 
R

RamenToppings

Member
do you think a 2 x 2 would accommodate 1 board and and 2 uvb bulbs total one on either side of the board, and 2 plants?

This is what I was thinking for supplemental lighting for the flower phase

Products

www.solacure.com
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
hmmm don't know what to tell you. Guess Moser treats customers better.


SCJedi said:
Thank you. I called Meanwell who told me to call the vendor (Allied) The vendor redirected me to the local office who said they would look into the 7-year warranty claim and then never called me back. I am glad to hear it was only a week.
Click to expand...
 
PJ Diaz

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
.. the (4x) QB96 rig cost me just under$500 for all parts (leds, drivers, wire, etc), and can be cranked up to 550 watts using two HLG-240H-54A drivers. Right now, I'm just running it at 440watts. I love how I can move each unit around and raise/lower according to specific plants height.
 
Humple

Humple

Well-Known Member
PJ Diaz said:
Finally got my QB96 rig set up. Doing it pretty bare bones, just hanging each of the four engines from cable hangers. I got two 96's each hooked up in parallel to HLG240 drivers, four units total so two drivers.

View attachment 4505180
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Rad. 4x4? Man, I'm just way too OCD about symmetry to use those four-cables-to-one-carabiner hanger thingies (that's my highly technical description). I can see the upsides, but if they weren't hanging perfectly square it would irritate the piss out of me.

Anyway, congrats on the new lights!
 
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