jondamon
Well-Known Member
there is no given time frame. It’s creating the perfect environment for mould spores to populate.
if there aren’t any spores Present it won’t grow mould.
NO defoliation appreciation thread.
- Thread starter GC_Mospeada
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there is no given time frame. It’s creating the perfect environment for mould spores to populate.
if there aren’t any spores Present it won’t grow mould.
GC_Mospeada
Well-Known Member
But in your opinion...how long can water sit on the plant like that before it causes damage? Doesn't have to be mould...If forever does that mean plants on the earth can be grown underwater?
Mr.Head
Well-Known Member
If waters sitting on the leaf surface the leaf isn't working right.
Gond00s
Well-Known Member
and its a perfect surface for mold to germinate when its half damp still
Mr.Head
Well-Known Member
this guy gets it
bout a pound.
jondamon
Well-Known Member
In my opinion it can sit there until a mould spore populates because you have some microclimate issues between leaf surfaces.
seeing as you like scholar links
Google Scholar
Thundercat
Well-Known Member
I pay no attention to water drops sitting on my plant, it means nothing on its own. Plants are designed to grow out doors. Mold doesn't usually start on leaves either. It starts in the very center of the buds where you can't see it if you have fat buds. But if you grow strong healthy plants and control your environment most people can usually avoid it.
Edit: FYI I don't have water sitting on my plants for extended periods of time since I keep air flow in my gardens and avoid microclimates.
Mr.Head
Well-Known Member
I strive not to have water on my leaves at all in flower. Botrytis once was enough for me to stay forever paranoid. Anything that's overlapping/falling over itself gets a nudge daily.
To have water pooling in the lower canopy the humidity's gotta be 70% or higher for it to stay for long periods. That with untrimmed bud sites and excess overlapping foliage.... PM's comin. The Rot's coming. More a matter of "when" than "if" IMO.
To have water pooling in the lower canopy the humidity's gotta be 70% or higher for it to stay for long periods. That with untrimmed bud sites and excess overlapping foliage.... PM's comin. The Rot's coming. More a matter of "when" than "if" IMO.
Wattzzup
Well-Known Member
the plants you have shown looks like my first plant. It had too much nitrogen too late and the buds got all fluffy. If those are the tops no wonder you won’t show the bottoms.
Thanks @Mr.Head for the advice on more reading less typing. I now realize I looked like this fool. And you were wrong I did take your advice.
Reading this is funny he clearly can’t grow good tight buds but proceeds to push his “science” of growing. I made a good decision not listening to him a long time ago in this thread.
This thread title should be changed to the Karma thread because that shit came back to bite him hard. Those buds look terrible period.
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
somewhere mid in flower when the buds are forming. then later individual colas get yellow crispy sugarleaves and inside is mold. then after the 3rd or 4th cola one realizes, have to cut premature
You and I have our beefs over in Politics, but the whole point of being a reasonable human is we can shift gears, get past differences unrelated to growing, and act reasonably and sensibly when discussing different topics.
OP has a need to be right in all aspects of life at all costs, and those are the types of people who are a blight on society.
Wattzzup
Well-Known Member
I left those threads and moved on.
At least when I tried cutting leaves I didn’t say I was going to pull more weight. Cmon man you really think ALL these people are wrong? They aren’t just spewing info they are giving you feedback on your exact conditions.
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
You can all make an experiment with whatever plant you have there in your room, just take something black around a new shoot from a node, and compare its growth with the other unshaded shoots... but also take away at some regions some of the biggest fanleaves and then watch how the shoots there will grow right beack there where there is direct light... and the shaded shoot will grow the least....
Gond00s
Well-Known Member
I think if anything cutting leaves are helpful for clones I think it helps slow transpiration idk im high af
raggyb
Well-Known Member
can i ask one related to the actual topic of the thread? lately i'm trying to defoliate as little as possible to see how it goes. maybe buds don't photosynthesize as someone said, but i notice leaves closer to the light and especially too close get real sticky. seems like a stress response and a good one. so i'm thinking more light exposure to buds may make them more sticky. maybe they don't photosynthesize, but they get more sticky as a stress response. so maybe even if your on the keep my solar panels side of things, there is a happy medium where a few select trimmings give you stronger buds? try and answer and then get back to the slug fest! ayaaa!
Gond00s
Well-Known Member
here is some basic advise clean up all the larfy shit at the bottom and have your plants focus their upper growth
Photosynthesis creates energy, and when the plant is creating energy, it needs food to do so. One purpose of cutting the leaves of clones in half is to reduce the amount of energy being created, by reducing the amount of light available for the plant to uptake.
At that stage, the energy focus needs to be on growing roots, not growing the plant upwards.
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Gond00s
Well-Known Member
or if u want try to get light to get more deeper into the canopy so u can make it more dense then after that happens lollipop. I feel like once I have a nice solid top structure I can be fine with lolipopping or trimming all of the larf off its really up to the grower and their constraints 
happy grows @raggyb
happy grows @raggyb- Status