Sick plants

spek9

Well-Known Member
Alrite, so I need to take note of the optimum ph and start phing my feed and hopefully they will start to look better.
also I noticed a few of my plants don’t have many leaves. Anything I can do/ need to do about that?
When trying to fix a problem with plants, never change more than one thing at a time, and only focus on a single problem (the most obvious or problematic one). When changing many things at once, if something fixes the issue, you'll never know what it was. Likewise, if you make things worse or new problems arise, you'll not know what caused it.

Change one thing, wait at least a couple to three days. Then change something else. Wait. etc.

Get the pH straightened out, and wait a few days to see if the plants react positively. Once this current issue is rectified, then focus on the next problem.
 

saint0192

Active Member
For future reference, the brown spots on the leaves are a classic indication of calcium deficiency, they probably started as light discolorations and got worse over a few days?

The light colored leaves are classic signs of magnesium deficiency and a few other possible deficiencies, but in one of the pics you can see a little more lighter color kind of halo towards the edges of the leaves, which is a super classic symptom of magnesium deficiency specifically. If left to continue, the leaves will curl and brown and die starting at the edges, then get crispy crunchy...
 

JoeBlow5823

Well-Known Member
You shouldn't have done that ;)

There are some strains out there that require calmag 1/2-3/4 of the way through the flower cycle regardless if using tap water that seems to work for all other strains. Having a bottle laying around for such a situation is handy.
My water has a really high ppm and I use super hot dirt.... You may be right though. I can always get more if need be not like it costs that much.
 

Never Known

Active Member
When trying to fix a problem with plants, never change more than one thing at a time, and only focus on a single problem (the most obvious or problematic one). When changing many things at once, if something fixes the issue, you'll never know what it was. Likewise, if you make things worse or new problems arise, you'll not know what caused it.

Change one thing, wait at least a couple to three days. Then change something else. Wait. etc.

Get the pH straightened out, and wait a few days to see if the plants react positively. Once this current issue is rectified, then focus on the next problem.
Alrite great so I will correct ph next feed and wait.
 

spek9

Well-Known Member
My water has a really high ppm and I use super hot dirt.... You may be right though. I can always get more if need be not like it costs that much.
Yeah, one of the usually required cannabis growing items that doesn't cost an entire stimulus cheque LOL
 

Never Known

Active Member
For future reference, the brown spots on the leaves are a classic indication of calcium deficiency, they probably started as light discolorations and got worse over a few days?

The light colored leaves are classic signs of magnesium deficiency and a few other possible deficiencies, but in one of the pics you can see a little more lighter color kind of halo towards the edges of the leaves, which is a super classic symptom of magnesium deficiency specifically. If left to continue, the leaves will curl and brown and die starting at the edges, then get crispy crunchy...
Sorry so are the spots and the curling from a ca/mg deficiency or from ph?
 

JoeBlow5823

Well-Known Member
Yeah, one of the usually required cannabis growing items that doesn't cost an entire stimulus cheque LOL
I try to keep my bottles of snake oil and bags of pix dust to a bare minimum so I'm not tempted to use them if I'm trying to over correct an issue. If you grow in good dirt and lots of it you should have all the nutrients you need in the dirt. Plus the dry amendment i use has calcium and magnesium in it. So between that and what is in the water/dirt i shouldnt have issues major enough to address.
 

spek9

Well-Known Member
I try to keep my bottles of snake oil and bags of pix dust to a bare minimum so I'm not tempted to use them if I'm trying to over correct an issue. If you grow in good dirt and lots of it you should have all the nutrients you need in the dirt. Plus the dry amendment i use has calcium and magnesium in it. So between that and what is in the water/dirt i shouldnt have issues major enough to address.
I have only GH Flora 3-part for nutes, and a bottle of calmag. That's all I've ever used.

Aside from that, just the standard pH up and down, and pH pen calibration solution.
 

saint0192

Active Member
When trying to fix a problem with plants, never change more than one thing at a time, and only focus on a single problem (the most obvious or problematic one). When changing many things at once, if something fixes the issue, you'll never know what it was. Likewise, if you make things worse or new problems arise, you'll not know what caused it.

Change one thing, wait at least a couple to three days. Then change something else. Wait. etc.

Get the pH straightened out, and wait a few days to see if the plants react positively. Once this current issue is rectified, then focus on the next problem.
Amen! Scientific method - do not conflate problems by making multiple changes. The few days you wait if PH adjustment is required should see noticeable improvement or not. Also, make sure PPM you are feeding them is in the right range ASAP! I don't grow in coco, so I don't have specifics for you, but the info is here somewhere, look it up. As long as those two are correct, wait a few days to see results - the stressed leaves will not recover much, but new growth should look healthy. If not, try the next remedy, calcium and magnesium.

If PH and PPM is already in the correct range, then the next step would be calcium and magnesium anyway, so go straight to that. Either way, fixing the issue(s) in order will likely take care of both of the problems you listed. Good luck - post back your findings!
 

spek9

Well-Known Member
Either or both. Hard to say for sure man. Incorrect ph can cause nutrient lockout so even if the plant has all the nutrients in the world, it cant take them in. Or it might just be ca/mg deficiency. Start with PH
I agree. Get the pH stabilized for a few feedings, then adjust nutrients if necessary. Trying to fix a nutrient uptake problem by adding more stuff if the pH may be way off can make the problem worse.
 

Never Known

Active Member
Either or both. Hard to say for sure man. Incorrect ph can cause nutrient lockout so even if the plant has all the nutrients in the world, it cant take them in. Or it might just be ca/mg deficiency. Start with PH
Alrite thanks I’ll start with ph on the next feed which will be in a few days. Then if it’s still there I’ll get some cal mg and go from there. Really appreciate the help from everyone
 

JoeBlow5823

Well-Known Member
I agree. Get the pH stabilized for a few feedings, then adjust nutrients if necessary. Trying to fix a nutrient uptake problem by adding more stuff if the pH may be way off can make the problem worse.
Exactly. To much calmag can cause lockout too if im not mistaken so if you correct your ph but fuck up the calmag you arent fixing anything.
 

saint0192

Active Member
Sorry so are the spots and the curling from a ca/mg deficiency or from ph?
Yes.

LOL. PH affects nutrient uptake, so it could be PH, and that seems likely as the primary cause, However, if PH is correct, it could be that there just isn't enough of those nutrients in your tap water and nutrients.
 

JoeBlow5823

Well-Known Member
Yes.

LOL. PH affects nutrient uptake, so it could be PH, and that seems likely as the primary cause, However, if PH is correct, it could be that there just isn't enough of those nutrients in your tap water and nutrients.
From my experience, it would be like winning the lotto to have your water and nutrients just happen to be the right ph.
 

saint0192

Active Member
Alrite I get it now. Learnt a lot today!
A final word - the hardest part is patience - take your time, wait to see results, don't rush anything, and read a lot in between to pass the time. As you get more info and good ideas, make sure to keep it simple, one change at a time, chart results as you go, paying attention to the basics - PH, PPM, watering schedule, light height, temp, humidity. Finally, don't over-complicate it - once you get healthy growing plants, don't veer off course, let them grow and continue to be healthy because any change might imperil that...
 

spek9

Well-Known Member
From my experience, it would be like winning the lotto to have your water and nutrients just happen to be the right ph.
Ironically, I mix in 15 gallon drums. One for flower, one for veg. Both, when mixed, are within 0.1 pH of my ideal 6.0 (I grow in Sunshine #4).

I pull water directly from the lake I live on, and use it after it goes through my chlorine and filtration system.
 
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