Sick plants

Never Known

Active Member
A final word - the hardest part is patience - take your time, wait to see results, don't rush anything, and read a lot in between to pass the time. As you get more info and good ideas, make sure to keep it simple, one change at a time, chart results as you go, paying attention to the basics - PH, PPM, watering schedule, light height, temp, humidity. Finally, don't over-complicate it - once you get healthy growing plants, don't veer off course, let them grow and continue to be healthy because any change might imperil that...
Yeah thank you for the advice I will start going over the basics until I have a strong grasp on them. Next problems may be to do with the cold temperature as I’m growing in a basement
 

spek9

Well-Known Member
Yeah thank you for the advice I will start going over the basics until I have a strong grasp on them. Next problems may be to do with the cold temperature as I’m growing in a basement
I grow in my unheated basement. I live on a lake and I am at water level, so my basement is a constant 52F all year round. I can help with solutions to dealing with cold temperatures when you reach that point.

Also, if it hasn't been pointed out yet: https://growweedeasy.com
 

JoeBlow5823

Well-Known Member
Ironically, I mix in 15 gallon drums. One for flower, one for veg. Both, when mixed, are within 0.1 pH of my ideal 6.0 (I grow in Sunshine #4).

I pull water directly from the lake I live on, and use it after it goes through my chlorine and filtration system.
Yes few of us have the luxury of using lake water......
 

saint0192

Active Member
Yeah thank you for the advice I will start going over the basics until I have a strong grasp on them. Next problems may be to do with the cold temperature as I’m growing in a basement
My basement averages 60 degrees farenheit, 30% humidity in the winter. The lights in my tents and the plants transpiring water keep my tents between 68-72 degrees and high humidity above 50%, so I use exhaust fans to vent outdoors and keep humidity down under 45%, and the plants love it. I expect summer temps to be 72-78 or so with similar humidity, which is also fine as long as it is still controllable.

Oh - I also put a big folded blanket under my tents to insulate against the cold concrete floor.
 

spek9

Well-Known Member
My basement averages 60 degrees farenheit, 30% humidity in the winter. The lights in my tents and the plants transpiring water keep my tents between 68-72 degrees and high humidity above 50%, so I use exhaust fans to vent outdoors and keep humidity down under 45%, and the plants love it. I expect summer temps to be 72-78 or so with similar humidity, which is also fine as long as it is still controllable.
You're good then. Some slight adjustments may be necessary between winter and summer, but that seems like it. At lights off, my flower tents stay about 58-60F. I use the hot air in the veg tents (24/0 light cycle) to warm the flower tents when they are lights off. That keeps the temps up at around 60F.

I was running the flower tents at 52F at lights-off, but was noticing slight issues with it that low.
 

saint0192

Active Member
You're good then. Some slight adjustments may be necessary between winter and summer, but that seems like it. At lights off, my flower tents stay about 58-60F. I use the hot air in the veg tents (24/0 light cycle) to warm the flower tents when they are lights off. That keeps the temps up at around 60F.

I was running the flower tents at 52F at lights-off, but was noticing slight issues with it that low.
I originally used one exhaust fan to pull through the tents in a daisy chain - bad idea - the flowering tent humidity was good, but my veg tent was hitting 60% humidity! :-D Probably because the tents aren't huge - the veg tent is 3x3 and the flowering tent is 4x4

Oh - my lights off temps average 62 degrees
 

spek9

Well-Known Member
I originally used one exhaust fan to pull through the tents in a daisy chain - bad idea - the flowering tent humidity was good, but my veg tent was hitting 60% humidity! :-D

Probably because the tents aren't huge - the veg tent is 3x3 and the flowering tent is 4x4
Well, I don't exactly do it like a daisy chain per say. The tents are connected via a 6" vent line, through a cool tube. The other end is open, with a piece of furnace filter attached. It's about 8" long, connected to the far end of the veg cool tube, and bent in a 90 degree angle upwards toward the top of the tent. There is a 6", high output 12v fan on top of the furnace filter. I've also got an exhaust fan in this tent, that vents outside.

I've designed and built a special environment controller for this setup. When the temp in the flower tent goes below 56F, the veg exhaust turns off, and the small 6" fan turns on, blowing air from the tent, through the cooltube and into the bottom of the flower tent. The flower plants are on a shelf 12" above the floor, so this heat vent (as well as the passive intakes) are underneath this elevated floor. The wooden "floor" has a 3" gap at the front and back of the tents so that the air can enter, but light can't leak.

When the flower tent temp hits 59F, the veg heat fan turns off, and its exhaust turns back on.

Since I also run an exhaust in the flower tent (at just enough speed to create slight negative vacuum), the two exhaust fans cancel each other out (because of the passive intakes in both tents), so there is little to no airflow between the tents when veg isn't warming flower.

I've got two setups like this, exactly the same. One is my main production setup, the other is for breeding and other experiments. I run 400W MH in both veg tents, a 1000W HPS in prod flower, and 600W in experiments flower.

Hopefully I explained that reasonably clearly LOL
 

saint0192

Active Member
Well, I don't exactly do it like a daisy chain per say. The tents are connected via a 6" vent line, through a cool tube. The other end is open, with a piece of furnace filter attached. It's about 8" long, connected to the far end of the veg cool tube, and bent in a 90 degree angle upwards toward the top of the tent. There is a 6", high output 12v fan on top of the furnace filter. I've also got an exhaust fan in this tent, that vents outside.

I've designed and built a special environment controller for this setup. When the temp in the flower tent goes below 56F, the veg exhaust turns off, and the small 6" fan turns on, blowing air from the tent, through the cooltube and into the bottom of the flower tent. The flower plants are on a shelf 12" above the floor, so this heat vent (as well as the passive intakes) are underneath this elevated floor. The wooden "floor" has a 3" gap at the front and back of the tents so that the air can enter, but light can't leak.

When the flower tent temp hits 59F, the veg heat fan turns off, and its exhaust turns back on.

Since I also run an exhaust in the flower tent (at just enough speed to create slight negative vacuum), the two exhaust fans cancel each other out (because of the passive intakes in both tents), so there is little to no airflow between the tents when veg isn't warming flower.

I've got two setups like this, exactly the same. One is my main production setup, the other is for breeding and other experiments. I run 400W MH in both veg tents, a 1000W HPS in prod flower, and 600W in experiments flower.

Hopefully I explained that reasonably clearly LOL
Sounds very cool actually, I rolled my own controller for simple exhaust fan actuated by temp and humidity, light control, and internal circulating fan for each tent as well. It may come in handy to keep temp up during a really bitter winter, which we get enough of here to think about it. This winter was mild for my first grow in a long time, and I've been in the house for less than 2 years...
 
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