AC TIG with pure argon shielding gas if you want it welded. Otherwise Drill and bolt. But bolting is only good for a few applications.What's the way to go, in lamens terms?
Thanks I am using the lights in a grow box that needs to stay below 70f. Growing cold weather lettuce for personal use. It is primarily an experiment to see what the minimum electrical input can produce a satisfactory crop.Liquid cooled strips is a new one in here I think? Not my design preference but to each their own.
Good luck grower
Unfortunately not for welding. This is one tool where you absolutely get what you pay for and HF does not make a worthwhile welder, especially a TIG. Even the budget models from known name brands are pretty bunk. You're looking at four figures to get into a decent TIG setup. If you want to do stick on steel then you can go cheap-ish.HF has their junk, that's true, but they usually have higher end models of everything that's pretty good quality.
same goes for electrical testing equipment. You do NOT get what you pay for. i have bought 4-6 sets of testers from HF in a hurry , not one of those lasted much past the job i bought them for. (5 outta 6 actually made it through the one job. 1 outta 6 still turn on. zero still work. None older then 3 years)Unfortunately not for welding. This is one tool where you absolutely get what you pay for and HF does not make a worthwhile welder, especially a TIG. Even the budget models from known name brands are pretty bunk. You're looking at four figures to get into a decent TIG setup. If you want to do stick on steel then you can go cheap-ish.
I will agree about the HF welders. I learned to tig weld on a $10,000 Miller Dynasty with a water cooled torch. After doing some research I settled on an Everlast Power Tig 185 with analog controls and dual voltage capability. Cost me $800 shipped 6 years ago. It is an inverter welder. 90% of what I weld could be done on 110v. I keep it connected to 220 when I am working on my welding table. I was skeptical of everlast to begin with but everyone who had the analog knob controlled units were happy with them. With the air cooled torch you won’t run it over 150 amps more than 10 min before you want to take a break. In six years the only failure I have had is the finger switch on the tig torch. It cost me $10 to fix it. If it blows up tomorrow I will order another one just like it.Unfortunately not for welding. This is one tool where you absolutely get what you pay for and HF does not make a worthwhile welder, especially a TIG. Even the budget models from known name brands are pretty bunk. You're looking at four figures to get into a decent TIG setup. If you want to do stick on steel then you can go cheap-ish.
If the wheels are turning when you hit the the trigger it’s not the motor. Have you ever replaced the core of the welding lead or the entire welding lead/stinger? Will the feed wheels turn with no wire in it? Parts are available from Amazon and EBay.i got an old lincoln wire feed welder i got years ago but i believe the motor is burned up. it wont spit the wire out without a "jump start" from me. ive tried fiddling with all the adjustments. nothing. Where on earth would i order that motor ? Thanks
nothing turns until i "jump start" it by hitting the trigger then turning the motor with pliers.....then it will keep running till i release the trigger an usually wont start back up without another jump. Sometimes it will. Everything was clean and nothing could of restricted it. No it will not turn with or without the wire in it. That was a couple years ago so it may have some rust in her by now. ThanksIf the wheels are turning when you hit the the trigger it’s not the motor. Have you ever replaced the core of the welding lead or the entire welding lead/stinger? Will the feed wheels turn with no wire in it? Parts are available from Amazon and EBay.
What model is it? May not be worth investing much in it for something else to fail. Personally I would pull the motor and check the brushes in it.nothing turns until i "jump start" it by hitting the trigger then turning the motor with pliers.....then it will keep running till i release the trigger an usually wont start back up without another jump. Sometimes it will. Everything was clean and nothing could of restricted it. No it will not turn with or without the wire in it. That was a couple years ago so it may have some rust in her by now. Thanks