Driver Too Powerful? Driver Selection for DIY

dogcheese

dogcheese

New Member
Howdy y'all,
I've been doing some research for building a Samsung strip lighting set up for a 20x20x40inch grow tent and just have a few questions!:

Will this driver work for 4x SL-B8V1N30LAWW (1-1.6A, 11.1V/per strip) in series?

HLG-185H-C1400B MEAN WELL USA Inc. | Power Supplies - External/Internal (Off-Board) | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. HLG-185H-C1400B – 1.4A 71 ~ 143V Constant Current LED Driver AC DC Converter Topology 1 Output from MEAN WELL USA Inc.. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
www.digikey.com www.digikey.com

SL-B8V1N30LAWW Samsung Semiconductor, Inc. | Optoelectronics | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. SL-B8V1N30LAWW – LED Lighting COBs Engines Modules LED Module series White, Warm Linear Light Strip from Samsung Semiconductor, Inc.. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
www.digikey.com www.digikey.com


or will it not pull enough volts at lowered current (1-1.4A) with ONLY 4 in series?
My thinking is I should buy a driver that I can add more strips to in the future; this is possible correct/right?


Also when it says:
'Dimming: Analog'
Does that mean it is dimmable by a potentiometer or something?
leddriverq.png




I am noobguy with LEDs so I greatly appreciate any feedback!
cheese
 
Moflow

Moflow

Well-Known Member
That's a constant current driver with a voltage range of 71v - 143v
A min voltage of 71v
You add the voltage of your strips together, 11v per strip x 4 strips = 44v. Won't fit the driver, too low a voltage.
7 strips would be 77v so that fits into the drivers min 71v - max 143v range.
 
1

1212ham

Well-Known Member
dogcheese said:
My thinking is I should buy a driver that I can add more strips to in the future; this is possible correct/right?
Click to expand...
30 watts per square foot is good with efficient strips like that so about 80w total. I'd connect the strips in parallel to an HLG-80H-12AB or HLG-120H-12AB. You can then add more strips and not be concerned with staying in the drivers voltage range. Meanwell's AB type dimming is their most versatile with onboard voltage adjustment and external 3-in-1 dimming with a 100K pot, 1-10v or PWM.

Personally, I'd probably run pairs of strips is series to get 22.2v and use a 24v driver. You'd have to add any additional strips in pairs, but it's a little simpler wiring and a 24v driver could be more usfull in the future as many strips are in the 20-24v range.
 
PJ Diaz

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
1212ham said:
30 watts per square foot is good with efficient strips like that so about 80w total. I'd connect the strips in parallel to an HLG-80H-12AB or HLG-120H-12AB. You can then add more strips and not be concerned with staying in the drivers voltage range. Meanwell's AB type dimming is their most versatile with onboard voltage adjustment and external 3-in-1 dimming with a 100K pot, 1-10v or PWM.

Personally, I'd probably run pairs of strips is series to get 22.2v and use a 24v driver. You'd have to add any additional strips in pairs, but it's a little simpler wiring and a 24v driver could be more usfull in the future as many strips are in the 20-24v range.
Click to expand...
Good call, and missed in the OP that he was thinking about adding more strips later. I also like the idea of parallel sets of 2-strips in series. In that setup I think I would pick a HLG-120H-24A, which would be ok for what he has now on a dimmed setting, and have plenty of headroom to double the strips in the future.
 
1

1212ham

Well-Known Member
PJ Diaz said:
Good call, and missed in the OP that he was thinking about adding more strips later. I also like the idea of parallel sets of 2-strips in series. In that setup I think I would pick a HLG-120H-24A, which would be ok for what he has now on a dimmed setting, and have plenty of headroom to double the strips in the future.
Click to expand...
A HLG-120H-24A would be fine, I just like the versatility of the AB dimming.
 
dogcheese

dogcheese

New Member
I think you misread
Click to expand...
I did indeed. Thanks

When the driver reads MAX current of 5A that means when the potentiometer is at 100% it has a current of 5A right?

So in the case of two pairs of strips (4 total) to run the whole array at 1A I would set the potentiometer value to .4/ 40%?
And for running at 1.4A set to .56/ 56%?

I'm trying to make sure I understand how all the units work together.
With something like this should I have a fuse at the beginning of the circuit? If one pair fails won't it blow the other from so much current?

Thanks for pointers :D
 
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1

1212ham

Well-Known Member
dogcheese said:
I did indeed. Thanks

When the driver reads MAX current of 5A that means when the potentiometer is at 100% it has a current of 5A right?

So in the case of two pairs of strips (4 total) to run the whole array at 1A I would set the potentiometer value to .4/ 40%?
And for running at 1.4A set to .56/ 56%?

I'm trying to make sure I understand how all the units work together.
With something like this should I have a fuse at the beginning of the circuit? If one pair fails won't it blow the other from so much current?

Thanks for pointers :D
Click to expand...
Correct, but four 11.1v strips at 1A is only 44.4watts, I'd run 8 strips. Meanwell's with A or AB dimming have an adjustable voltage limit than will prevent every strip from drawing excessive current even if it's available from the driver.
 
dogcheese

dogcheese

New Member
I'd run 8 strips
Click to expand...
Hm... after doing some research on ideal watts/sqft will those lights really be the best choice to achieve >50w/sqft during flower?
In my space (20"x20") I would have room for 2.77sqft of canopy to cover.

When that datasheet reads: 'Voltage range: 22~27V and Current range: 2.5~5A' does that then mean the max watts that can be driven is 135W (voltage and current at max)?; Is it safe to do that?
driver image.png


And with 8 strips at 1.4A I would be pulling 125W equaling 46w/sqft right?
Is w/sqft nonsense? :confused::eek:

Is there a more cost effective light strip for this kind of grow?
Is the size constraint really an issue when it comes to LED lighting?

TY,
cheese
 
dogcheese

dogcheese

New Member
You're asking if my suggestion is nonsense? I'm out.
Click to expand...
Um no, not at all.
I was asking in genral if it is a good way of measuring the light to space properly.
You didn’t even mention w/sqft so what up?!

No criticism here I’m purely looking for help and information. :P

This would make more sense from a cost perspective
Click to expand...
All the 3000k boards seem to be sold out atm.
That’s the best temp to get for seed to flower right?
That sale did look nice.
 
GBAUTO

GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
dog, power metrics(watts/sq ft) are really just trying to relate the number of photons of PAR your plants will need for vigorous growth.
Efficacy of the fixture(umole/watt) is what determines how 'much' that metric is.
I run combos of 3000k and 4000k on my fixtures for full cycle and it works well.
2.77 sq ft of canopy using top-tier diodes you'll need about 75 watts to supply sufficient PPF.
I tend to overbuild my fixtures(never can have too much) and use dimming to tailor the light level.
I would use a 120-watt driver and whatever form factor of light engines that fit YOUR space.
 
dogcheese

dogcheese

New Member
dog, power metrics(watts/sq ft) are really just trying to relate the number of photons of PAR your plants will need for vigorous growth.
Efficacy of the fixture(umole/watt) is what determines how 'much' that metric is.
I run combos of 3000k and 4000k on my fixtures for full cycle and it works well.
2.77 sq ft of canopy using top-tier diodes you'll need about 75 watts
Click to expand...
Ah that helps thank you.
When you say 'sufficient light' achieved by 75 watts do you mean 27w/sqft is good enough? Or am I finding w/sqft incorrectly; 75 / 2.77 = 27 w/sqft right?
My understanding is that lower w/sqft (>30) and full power at flower (>50). Is this bs?


As for those single strips I had before, doesn't this make more sense to use:
x1or2

SL-B8T2N70LAWW Samsung Semiconductor, Inc. | Optoelectronics | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. SL-B8T2N70LAWW – LED Lighting COBs Engines Modules LED Module series White, Neutral Linear Light Strip from Samsung Semiconductor, Inc.. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
www.digikey.com www.digikey.com

and
x2

SL-B8V2N70LAWW Samsung Semiconductor, Inc. | Optoelectronics | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. SL-B8V2N70LAWW – LED Lighting COBs Engines Modules LED Module series White, Warm Linear Light Strip from Samsung Semiconductor, Inc.. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
www.digikey.com www.digikey.com

Running 4 of those would put me at 147w @ 1.6A/strip maxed out and 89w @ 1A. (53w/sqft and 32w/sqft (if im doin it right :D))
So that being said this driver fits that system right?:

HLG-150H-24AB MEAN WELL USA Inc. | Power Supplies - External/Internal (Off-Board) | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. HLG-150H-24AB – 6.3A 24V Constant Current, Voltage LED Driver AC DC Converter Topology 1 Output from MEAN WELL USA Inc.. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
www.digikey.com www.digikey.com


Would It be too overbuilt with near 150w in that space?
If so would I want more 3000k lights than 4000k lights?;
2:1 In this case, making that driver 120w driver you recommended work right?

Thanks for helping me fill in the holes, it's hard to be sure about this stuff being a lednoob! :clap: :hug:
cheese
 
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