DIY with Quantum Boards

Federucci

Well-Known Member
Touching the thermal paste ruins the thermal conductivity of it. #1 thing to never do is touch the cpu or heatsink after cleaning it before putting on thermal paste, and obviously never touch the paste either. Same thing would apply to this board and heatsink. The oil in/on your hands totally messes with thermal transfer capabilities.

Doing what @Airwalker16 said would likely be easiest with least paste use possible. I used an old credit card I cleaned with iso ahead of time to spread it out over my slate 2's for my rspec's.
I used a finger condom because I didn't want this stuff seeping into my skin, but I'm glad I did because I didn't know that. I scrubbed the board with lint free makeup pads and Iso before applying it. I'll use the card trick next time with gloves on so there is less risk of my filthy greasy hands messing with the stuff.
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Friday update : Gotham Limited / KKP

Late flower ... week ? Who knows I don’t really count anymore. Easier to just watch maturity.
Kelp water is at every watering now. Debating whether to top dress or just ride til wheels fall off. They are quite regular in drying every 3rd day. Uniform fading is apparent , buds are chunking up pretty nicely.

I decided to run the 4000k QB on these for remaining weeks and the buds just chunk crazy. So might use that one more often.
UV use has been sporadic , timer is cheap and not really working , so I manually flip it on ( since being home a lot ).

Droop is from today’s “ watering “ before pics. The Single plant below is another KKP that is under the QB V1 304 boards and a G8
deep red booster ( 630-660nm lamp ) ...... I really like that “ ufo “ and how intense it throws red.

33A7E7F5-37CD-4DE3-97BB-8BDDD7FF891B.jpegC59A1281-8E0A-4B00-A1FF-6F2746F1AF2E.jpeg

SOLO KKP :

Red tint is from G8 lamp.

5DCA046D-7BF2-42BF-8925-544A210AEECF.jpeg6B2D8387-670D-4428-9EE1-330C3FE331AA.jpeg2D1D1B7D-A7FC-45FB-B293-37C5A17EC12E.jpeg

Happy Memorial Day ! ....
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Touching the thermal paste ruins the thermal conductivity of it. #1 thing to never do is touch the cpu or heatsink after cleaning it before putting on thermal paste, and obviously never touch the paste either. Same thing would apply to this board and heatsink. The oil in/on your hands totally messes with thermal transfer capabilities.

Doing what @Airwalker16 said would likely be easiest with least paste use possible. I used an old credit card I cleaned with iso ahead of time to spread it out over my slate 2's for my rspec's.
So they say there's no need but a 7-8℃ difference is very notable.
 

Federucci

Well-Known Member
So they say there's no need but a 7-8℃ difference is very notable.
There is a small oscillating fan about 24 inches below the b spec blowing across the peppers, I'm sure this helped some, but there is nothing blowing directly onto the board or heatsink. I am sure the air movement cooled it down a little bit though. If you live in a super hot place, then it's probably worth it to look into, but there are a lot of variables so everyone's results will probably vary. If you get a chance to apply some, post it on here because I am curious how other people's boards perform too. Another guy said his dropped by 10C, I forget who.

When these 648s finally come in stock, I'll have to do another reading. Maybe I should do a reading with the 120H cranked up to whatever it goes to.

Edited: Yeah man, it's not required, just like grounding the anodized heat sink and soldering the stranded wires used in the wagos and junction boxes, but it's simple enough to do both, especially if you're remote mounting with a 12/3 cable. I think it makes the connections a bit cleaner. Just zip tie the 12/3 to the hangers, I just ran it down as far down one of the hangers as you can to wago in the 18 solid. When Wago says 11mm stripping on the wire, they really mean it. That's about the same size I used on the junction boxes, and 8mm stripping on the molex solid side. Nice results.
 
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HolyAngel

Well-Known Member
So they say there's no need but a 7-8℃ difference is very notable.
Oh yeah! I think that's notable too and worth it if either heat is an issue or you're planning on maxing out the boards, especially if it will be for a long time.
I'm running two rspecs off a 320h-54a(5.95a max stock) that tops out at 375w at the wall, so I did it to both of my boards and pretty sure I saw a 10c drop without any active cooling at max load, but I'm using gelid's gc-extreme thermal paste too. And then I added a 120mm or 140mm fan on top to further cool everything down. My 2 rspec boards don't break 55c with the driver at 375w. Pretty positive i'm pushing more than 3amps to each board when I have it maxed like that. I don't ever run it that hard but least I know I can without damaging the boards in any way.
 

Federucci

Well-Known Member
Oh yeah! I think that's notable too and worth it if either heat is an issue or you're planning on maxing out the boards, especially if it will be for a long time.
I'm running two rspecs off a 320h-54a(5.95a max stock) that tops out at 375w at the wall, so I did it to both of my boards and pretty sure I saw a 10c drop without any active cooling at max load, but I'm using gelid's gc-extreme thermal paste too. And then I added a 120mm or 140mm fan on top to further cool everything down. My 2 rspec boards don't break 55c with the driver at 375w. Pretty positive i'm pushing more than 3amps to each board when I have it maxed like that. I don't ever run it that hard but least I know I can without damaging the boards in any way.
I'll be running a similar driver with 648s, so that's encouraging to hear, and for me at least, the cost is worth it to have a bit more control over your temps.

That's the kind of enthusiasm we like to see at overclocking conventions.
 
Help please, I am not sure why my boards are not turning on, I used the drivers, potentiometer, 18 guage wire and 3 way wagos this forum reccomended but after everything was connected I got 0 power to the leds.
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Barristan Whitebeard

Well-Known Member
Help please, I am not sure why my boards are not turning on, I used the drivers, potentiometer, 18 guage wire and 3 way wagos this forum reccomended but after everything was connected I got 0 power to the leds.
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Hello @RamenToppings . You have those boards wired in series. For your current setup to work, you need to wire in parallel.

Do you know how to do that?
 

TWest65

Well-Known Member
Help please, I am not sure why my boards are not turning on, I used the drivers, potentiometer, 18 guage wire and 3 way wagos this forum reccomended but after everything was connected I got 0 power to the leds.
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View attachment 4576522
Take off the short black wire that connects the two boards.
Cut 2 lengths of wire (one red, one black) that will go from the wagos (red to red, black to black) to the open connectors on the other side of the board (red to Pos, black to Neg)
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
dIn the QB 304 tent I have among others, a Dinafem White Widow XXL Auto in a three gallon pot. She's 22" tall and 30: wide! The pic makes her look yellow, she's not, my phone doesn't like my lights.


WW XXL In -pic1 -5-25-2020.jpg
 

TWest65

Well-Known Member
dIn the QB 304 tent I have among others, a Dinafem White Widow XXL Auto in a three gallon pot. She's 22" tall and 30: wide! The pic makes her look yellow, she's not, my phone doesn't like my lights.


View attachment 4577111

On my phone (Android), I go into the Pro settings of the camera and adjust the White Balance to match the lights. That usually gets rid of any odd coloring. But honestly, that pic looks fine to me.
 
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