i have done, no problems just water in between lolNo need to use fertilizers or water, just pis in the pots every now and then.
YOU CAN WHITE OUT but not od, herd of some smokers dying from weed, they were smoking badly dried weed with mold on it and it did something to there lungs and now there pushing up dasies
Hmm, then my urine would probably fry my plants.If you drink lots of beer your pee contains more fertilizer meaning bigger buds!
"Advanced Nutrients are the best because they have been made deliberately for Cannabis"Those nutes won't work because they weren't specifically developed for cannabis growth.
look up Bor-sensitive plants, and guess what happens to your Tomatoes if you cross a tiny certain threshold.... deadNutrient lockout
How come Tomatoes never get nutrient lockout
nutrient lockout it's code for "oh f*** I put too much nutes in this and it's screwed up and we better flush"
it's genetic & spectrum & temperature dependant. 12/12 is working in many cases, but longer nights are actually safer11.5/12.5 is the sweet spot.
how did it look? I think this one comes from a IG showoffI'm caught.
Back budding. One time.
Okay twice..... well once, but on two buds.
I've run 10/14 on long flowering sativa's. It was recommended by the breeder over at ACE. Plant was still shooting pistils at 20 weeks when I chopped it.it's genetic & spectrum & temperature dependant. 12/12 is working in many cases, but longer nights are actually safer
"Don't attempt to bloom at anything over 12/12
Personally, and many others in the know......Do NOT bloom at 12/12. I use 11.5/12.5 or 11/13.
Pure land race and all equatorial sativa's get a sliding scale of lighting decrease..
Start at 12/12 and drop it by 15 min a week after flower set (about 2 weeks)...
OR
Run them 12/12 till week 4 and drop to 11.5/12.5
At week 8, drop to 11/13, at 10.5/3.5 as of week 12
If your running the super longs and they seem to not want to exactly finish. Drop them to 10/14 for a week or 2 and they will come along.. "
quote by Dr. Who
Like alot of advice given here...I can't tell if half the posts here are people trying to drop facts to dispel myths or posting bro science without realizing it.
So much new bro science to absorb..Like alot of advice given here...
well, one thing is for certain, the flowering hormone level will be higher the longer the nightphase is. but if that's all that's needed to bring these types of plants to finish... I have my doubts.... u see, it's not just about budding, but also senescence, or "ripening". Temperature decrease, or even less day light, maybe even a switch to a more reddish spectrum.I've run 10/14 on long flowering sativa's. It was recommended by the breeder over at ACE. Plant was still shooting pistils at 20 weeks when I chopped it.
that was sort of to be expected, isn't it?So much new bro science to absorb..
So this statement is bro science?Once a roottip hits the bottom of the pot, his SPG will autoflower (by Chimera - IC)
20 weeks of life and I cut it because I couldn't keep it going. All the leaves were falling off, I needed the room in the tent, and for the most part the buds were done. I'm not saying 10/14 is all that's needed. I switched to it based on what the breeder said might help it to finish faster. Normally I wouldn't take that kind of advice but this time the source was solid but I don't have a side by side of 2 clones grown with different light schedules so I can't say if it had any effect.well, one thing is for certain, the flowering hormone level will be higher the longer the nightphase is. but if that's all that's needed to bring these types of plants to finish... I have my doubts.... u see, it's not just about budding, but also senescence, or "ripening". Temperature decrease, or even less day light, maybe even a switch to a more reddish spectrum.
did you cut out of frustration then? I mean, 20 weeks into flower or general plant life?
or try N-depletion a bit?