Hygrozyme or Hydroguard (Dr.Marijane... Canadian) to tackle Brown Slime on Roots?

N

noxey

Member
Hi all,

Just starting DWC -about 3 weeks from when I germinated my seeds.

I'm growing indoors, in a 2x4 tent, running a DWC with 2 45L totes. Using a Hydrofarm 25L airpump with 2 stones in each tote. Temps peak around 72F, but I try to keep them in the high 60s. I'm running GH Flora Trio right now.

Noticed a week ago that i had brown slime on the roots of one of my plants, as well as on the airlines. My totes were yellow lids, and leaked light, so I spray painted them to make them darker and sanitized the reservoirs. Now, a few days later, I'm noticing brown slime again in both totes. Assuming my temps are to blame, and I don't really have a way to cool them more (using ice-packs inside the tent now, would prefer to not have to rely on dropping ice every day into the res).

I'm deciding now if I want to go with Hygrozyme or Hydroguard (Dr. Marijane mixed at a similar concentration. Both are a Bacillus amyloliquefaciens based culture). I bought Hygrozme from a store, but haven't yet opened it. They also had Dr. Marijnae. After researching a bit more online, it seems like Hydroguard is the way to go. With the Dr.Marijane solution, it's significantly cheaper than Hydroguard.

Any opinions on which way to go here? Need to get this sorted ASAP!

Thanks!
 
Silentvirtue

Silentvirtue

Well-Known Member
Beneficial bacterias fungus and enzymes are great for preventing slime build up, as for getting rid once it's started I think is a harder ask but not impossible depending on level of build up.

Another good prevention method is it run additional air as bad bacterias etc are anaerobic. The additional air helps sustain aerobic bacterias (ie the ones you want to add)

If you have a big build up you can run H202 in your res (prior to mixing bacterias) for 24 hours. Careful you can fuck you plants if you get it wrong. I suggest buying food grade hydrogen peroxide 35% and diluting down to 3% (a ratio of approx 10:1) and not buying 3% from your local pharmacy. Add this at around 15-30ml per us gal and leave in your res for 24 hours.

H202 will deplete in soultion very fast around 24-36 hours anyway but recommend changing your res again before adding microbes. Roots should start to turn whiter within a few to several hours. You can try going up to 5% if the slime is really bad or 3% is not too effective)

The additional oxygen released by the presence of H2O2 in H2O will attack and kill all the bad pathogens in your res. This happens via a chemical reaction that frees up additional oxygen molecules increasing the dissolved oxygen content.

As for DIY fixes stop your res temp problems I feel you. I've had them before. You can try wrapping the pots with aluminum foil to help reflect some of the heat away.

I also had some success with taking my air pump outside of the tent obviously not always practical. However if your room temp is 85f for example your pumping 85f air in to your res slowly warming it up.

Another fix I use still is I have a broken small refrigerator (used to keep wine or beer) I have drilled lots of 1/2 inch holes in one side with approx 1/2 inch spacing on one side. The other side I have drilled a 5" hole for my inlet ducting which joins the tent to the refrigerator. I then have filled lots of old plastic water bottles and frozen them before completely filling the refrigerator with them. You'll need a fair few as rotation is needed as they do melt, the insulation properties help key the ice solid for longer.

The draw of the extraction fans creates
enough negative pressure to draw air through the holes in one side, over the frozen bottles cooling the air before being drawn in to the tent. On a good hot day it helps lower my temps by a good few degrees. Also direct the cool air flow over the pots the best you can as this will also help keep them cool. You could also modify this idea so instead of holes on the inlet side you can make a hole for a fan of any sizing, or replace the the refrigerator with a large styrofoam box used for transporting frozen products. Cheap 2nd hand on eBay.

This is obviously again only really good for smaller scale projects.

I also prefer hygrozyme, its a good balance between money and use.
 
Last edited:
N

noxey

Member
Silentvirtue said:
Beneficial bacterias fungus and enzymes are great for preventing slime build up, as for getting rid once it's started I think is a harder ask but not impossible depending on level of build up.

Another good prevention method is it run additional air as bad bacterias etc are anaerobic. The additional air helps sustain aerobic bacterias (ie the ones you want to add)

If you have a big build up you can run H202 in your res (prior to mixing bacterias) for 24 hours. Careful you can fuck you plants if you get it wrong. I suggest buying food grade hydrogen peroxide 35% and diluting down to 3% (a ratio of approx 10:1) and not buying 3% from your local pharmacy. Add this at around 15-30ml per us gal and leave in your res for 24 hours.

H202 will deplete in soultion very fast around 24-36 hours anyway but recommend changing your res again before adding microbes. Roots should start to turn whiter within a few to several hours. You can try going up to 5% if the slime is really bad or 3% is not too effective)

The additional oxygen released by the presence of H2O2 in H2O will attack and kill all the bad pathogens in your res. This happens via a chemical reaction that frees up additional oxygen molecules increasing the dissolved oxygen content.

As for DIY fixes stop your res temp problems I feel you. I've had them before. You can try wrapping the pots with aluminum foil to help reflect some of the heat away.

I also had some success with taking my air pump outside of the tent obviously not always practical. However if your room temp is 85f for example your pumping 85f air in to your res slowly warming it up.

Another fix I use still is I have a broken small refrigerator (used to keep wine or beer) I have drilled lots of 1/2 inch holes in one side with approx 1/2 inch spacing on one side. The other side I have drilled a 5" hole for my inlet ducting which joins the tent to the refrigerator. I then have filled lots of old plastic water bottles and frozen them before completely filling the refrigerator with them. You'll need a fair few as rotation is needed as they do melt, the insulation properties help key the ice solid for longer.

The draw of the extraction fans creates
enough negative pressure to draw air through the holes in one side, over the frozen bottles cooling the air before being drawn in to the tent. On a good hot day it helps lower my temps by a good few degrees. Also direct the cool air flow over the pots the best you can as this will also help keep them cool. You could also modify this idea so instead of holes on the inlet side you can make a hole for a fan of any sizing, or replace the the refrigerator with a large styrofoam box used for transporting frozen products. Cheap 2nd hand on eBay.

This is obviously again only really good for smaller scale projects.

I also prefer hygrozyme, its a good balance between money and use.
Click to expand...
Wow thank you for such a detailed response!!!

Really like your mini fridge idea. I currently have a broken mini fridge - may consider using that in the future. Currently it wouldn't make sense given my grow room but definitely a good idea.

Good to know about the h2o2. Will pick some up today and get ready for a flush. Will be adding the beneficial bacteria Monday when I have a chance to return to the store.

So you use hygrozyme over beneficial bacteria?

I was able to but a 1L bottle or hygrozyme for $42 CAD, and if I use Dr Marijane instead of hydroguard It ends up costing something like $2 per bottle of hydroguard.

Is there enough value in keeping both, or would you reco starting with the Benes and using hygrozyme after? If so not expensive, but all of these additional nutrients and supliments are starting to add up!
rkymtnman said:
hydroguard is watered down, overpriced junk.
Southern Ag Garden Friendly Fungicide. same strain, million times more concentrated for cheaper.
Click to expand...
Ya, I'm going to Dr.Marijane instead. It's got the same active ingredients but isn't mixed with water. It's much more concentrated and incredibly cheap compared to hydroguard.
 
fragileassassin

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
thats an organic soil amendment/conditioner. Organics and hydro dont mix well.
Not likely something you want to use in dwc.
Theres no mention on any of the stuff I found of it being water soluble or intended for hydroponic use.
 
N

noxey

Member
fragileassassin said:
thats an organic soil amendment/conditioner. Organics and hydro dont mix well.
Not likely something you want to use in dwc.
Theres no mention on any of the stuff I found of it being water soluble or intended for hydroponic use.
Click to expand...
I'm aware it was made for soil. It has been tested and used by a few people in DWC, however. It's got the same bacteria culture as Hydroguard. On the packaging, the dosing guide indicates it's water soluble fine powder. Can be mixed into soil or dissolved first, then added to the substrate.

https://www.allgrowers.com/t/hydroguard-alternative/4882 - this thread is what sparked my interest. There are a few others I've found as well that suggest similar results.

It makes sense imo - given that it's the same bacteria. Hydroguard is 99.96% water - totally believable to me that a company could sell a non-diluted version at a fraction of the cost.
 
fragileassassin

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
noxey said:
It makes sense imo - given that it's the same bacteria. Hydroguard is 99.96% water - totally believable to me that a company could sell a non-diluted version at a fraction of the cost.
Click to expand...
And this is why not many people here use hydroguard.
Hydroguard is clear and southern ag looks like chocolate milk
 
N

noxey

Member
Just an update. Bought 100g of Dr.Marijane for $13 CAD. Mixed in 2g into 500ml of water (to make a 2x concentration vs hydroguard) and followed the hydroguard dosage guide.

Immediate turnaround after 2 days! New root growth is looking fantastic. Will keep an eye over the next few days, but so far I'm really happy with the results.
 
Exodus79

Exodus79

Member
Silentvirtue said:
Beneficial bacterias fungus and enzymes are great for preventing slime build up, as for getting rid once it's started I think is a harder ask but not impossible depending on level of build up.

Another good prevention method is it run additional air as bad bacterias etc are anaerobic. The additional air helps sustain aerobic bacterias (ie the ones you want to add)

If you have a big build up you can run H202 in your res (prior to mixing bacterias) for 24 hours. Careful you can fuck you plants if you get it wrong. I suggest buying food grade hydrogen peroxide 35% and diluting down to 3% (a ratio of approx 10:1) and not buying 3% from your local pharmacy. Add this at around 15-30ml per us gal and leave in your res for 24 hours.

H202 will deplete in soultion very fast around 24-36 hours anyway but recommend changing your res again before adding microbes. Roots should start to turn whiter within a few to several hours. You can try going up to 5% if the slime is really bad or 3% is not too effective)

The additional oxygen released by the presence of H2O2 in H2O will attack and kill all the bad pathogens in your res. This happens via a chemical reaction that frees up additional oxygen molecules increasing the dissolved oxygen content.

As for DIY fixes stop your res temp problems I feel you. I've had them before. You can try wrapping the pots with aluminum foil to help reflect some of the heat away.

I also had some success with taking my air pump outside of the tent obviously not always practical. However if your room temp is 85f for example your pumping 85f air in to your res slowly warming it up.

Another fix I use still is I have a broken small refrigerator (used to keep wine or beer) I have drilled lots of 1/2 inch holes in one side with approx 1/2 inch spacing on one side. The other side I have drilled a 5" hole for my inlet ducting which joins the tent to the refrigerator. I then have filled lots of old plastic water bottles and frozen them before completely filling the refrigerator with them. You'll need a fair few as rotation is needed as they do melt, the insulation properties help key the ice solid for longer.

The draw of the extraction fans creates
enough negative pressure to draw air through the holes in one side, over the frozen bottles cooling the air before being drawn in to the tent. On a good hot day it helps lower my temps by a good few degrees. Also direct the cool air flow over the pots the best you can as this will also help keep them cool. You could also modify this idea so instead of holes on the inlet side you can make a hole for a fan of any sizing, or replace the the refrigerator with a large styrofoam box used for transporting frozen products. Cheap 2nd hand on eBay.

This is obviously again only really good for smaller scale projects.

I also prefer hygrozyme, its a good balance between money and use.
Click to expand...
I screwed up just before reading this article. Same exact problem, one week I was using hydrozyme and all the AN line up for week 3 of flowering. Did a res change yesterday and instead of using hydrozyme I switched to Sensizyme and added nirvana to the mix. I think that’s to much organic material because my roots went light brown to dark. So prior of reading this I just added 1oz of hydroguard in the Rez and one scoop of great white miccorhizae. I’ll see what it does for text few days and see if it overcomes the bad shit inside. If not I got 30% h2o2 and will follow the advice you posted
 
KoolaidMan

KoolaidMan

Active Member
I brew 4 cups of tea using the following recipe and do 1cup per 5gal of water....pics of each included. This tea recipe keeps my entire system clean and healthy. Started Hydro doing this and never have had a single slime/algae issue. Also helps break down larger molecules of nutrients so the plant absorbs it better. Everything can be bought on Amazon for about $75 id say and will last a very very long time. The point is to reproduce all the microbes and bacteria to save product.

-4.25 cups of water (you will lose 1/4 cup during the process)
-1ml SouthernAG Garden Friendly Fungicide (contains Bacillus Bacteria)
-1tsp Supreme Growers Supre Myco Tea (Contains Myco, Bacillus and Tricho bacteria)
-1/4 cup Earth Worm Castings (contains many different microbes)
-1/2 tsp Molasses (food for all the above to reproduce)

Add all that in a bucket and let it stew in the dark for 2 days. Make sure you stir it occasionally a few times a day or use a bubbler/stone. I personally bought a stirplate and a 2L glass flask and let that run for 48hrs. After 48hrs run it through some cheese cloth or a sock or something to filter out the earth worm castings (dirt). Google “stir plate yeast starter” to get the idea of how I do it. Let me know if you have any questions. Tea can be kept in the fridge and will stay good about 1 to 1.5 weeks if you want to make alot at one time.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top