Technical question about CFL light.

[Mr.Anderson89]

Hi,

Long story short. My friend has a Gorilla Grow tent 2x4ft (60x120cm) as flowering chamber. It runs a 240w quantum board with 3000k,3500,5000k cree diods UV and IR switch.

The length of the quantum board is slightly above 2ft (60+cm), which allowed him to also fit a CFL :

TNeon 2x55W UE exc. Neon - Secret Jardin

Economical and compact solution * Designed for small space, with low extraction * Can be close to the plants (low temperature)

www.secretjardin.com

Thats another 110w and more lumens, which should be good for the ladies inside the tent right?

He got pairs of bulbs in 9000k, 6500k and 2100k spectrum.

The idea was to use the 2x55w 2100k spectrum lights as an addition to the quantum board in the flowering chamber.

Furthermore, he is aiming at making a "rolling" s.o.g setup with these lights. The area will be divided in rows and sections from start of flowering to end of flowering.

At the moment only the quantum board is operational, however he would like to also utilize the CFL. How does he go about doing it the best way?

For example, is it better to use the CFL on the early stage flowering section as the light is not as intense and can have them closer to canopy?
Would they stretch better, close to a 2x55w 2100k CFL, or 2ft(60cm) from a 240w Quantum board?
He is using clones 2 weeks from taking them so they are rather small and maybe a little stretch would be beneficial?

Or perhaps the 2100k is better suited in the end of flowering section as it represents later autumn sun?
So as to have it in the section that are in later and finishing stages of flowering period, would that give a better yield or trichomes?

Basically, would the 2100k CFL be most useful and beneficial in the early stages or in the later/finishing stage?

What are the pros and cons in this context?

Could you please give some ideas and feedback on how to utilize the space and the equipment and planned setup for optimal performance?

Sorry if i missed any details that should be included for a better conclusion.

 

[mauricem00]

your LEDS provied plenty of red but little violet and no UV . a 6500k bulb would complement those LEDs more than the 2700k he may even consider a reptile bulb for a little more UV

 

[Mr.Anderson89]

your LEDS provied plenty of red but little violet and no UV . a 6500k bulb would complement those LEDs more than the 2700k he may even consider a reptile bulb for a little more UV

Quantum Board 240w : 3000K+3500K+CREE 660NM+730NM+LG UV

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The quantum board is quite efficient it has UV and IR diodes and separate light switch for both.
Not sure as entirely how to use them though. I looked online they way it came across based on the information i found was :

IR for start of bloom, helps induce flowering stage and stretch plants for better light penetration. Simple version; IR makes them think theyre in the shadow so they stretch as to look for the sunlight?

UV stresses the plants and can be harmful but if used right theres speculations that it increases trichomes and terpenes?

 

[mauricem00]

what which provide nthese lights use for UV are 400nm diodes which provide no UVb and little light at 380nm and lower and have little effect on plants. it is just a sales gimick

 

[f series]

Damn I only read a bit, if you got quantum boards, or 200 watts of good LEDs, you can flower a 2*4 easily, infact, if you've got height dialed in, you can flower a 2*4 with 130-150 watts.

Everything is bull shit man, good luck

 

[coreywebster]

Personally I wouldn't be bothered about adding the cfls because a 240w kit will provide plenty of light.

But since your asking, I would add the lower Kelvin bulbs once buds are formed and are in the growth phase.
If I were going to add higher Kelvin bulbs I could use them at flip to minimise stretch if that was desirable, I would want the stretch personally.
Or I would add them in the last third of flower in a hope to increase frost. But I would probably dim the QB a little too since they don't need as much light at the end.

 

[Mr.Anderson89]

what which provide nthese lights use for UV are 400nm diodes which provide no UVb and little light at 380nm and lower and have little effect on plants. it is just a sales gimick

I had no idea about that, im still learning so much. Thank you for the information. The 6500k have more of UVb?

Damn I only read a bit, if you got quantum boards, or 200 watts of good LEDs, you can flower a 2*4 easily, infact, if you've got height dialed in, you can flower a 2*4 with 130-150 watts.

Everything is bull shit man, good luck

But he should get bigger buds by using more light right?

Personally I wouldn't be bothered about adding the cfls because a 240w kit will provide plenty of light.

But since your asking, I would add the lower Kelvin bulbs once buds are formed and are in the growth phase.
If I were going to add higher Kelvin bulbs I could use them at flip to minimise stretch if that was desirable, I would want the stretch personally.
Or I would add them in the last third of flower in a hope to increase frost. But I would probably dim the QB a little too since they don't need as much light at the end.

Would it be overkill?

Ok so that would mean late stage of flower period and have them under the cfl instead since they need less light? There is a dimmer on the Quantum Board as well. He does want a bit of stretch since they clones wont be more than 2 weeks when they go into the flower chamber. Is that induced by red light?
So you would utilize the CFL at the end of the bloom basically? Interesting about the optimal light intensity at end of flowering. Is there a graph or article or similar that shows the optimal light intensity levels through out the weeks and phases?

Thanks for the input guys i appreciate it

 

[Budzbuddha]

Here is the issue with adding cfl / flouro lamps .....

The biggest problem with fluorescent tubing is that the light that they give off is only useful for about a foot or so.
That's why they're kept so close to your plants.

 

[Budzbuddha]

Useful light penetration falls off a cliff as source gets farther away.




T5 lamps would be better suited as corner vertical supplemental ( some grows attach to corner posts of tent ) to “ surround ” plant .
Some growers also use as “ under canopy “ lighting to supplement light to the lowest growth.

I use T5 lamps for UV , BUT they are no closer than 24” ( and on short timers ) as not turn ladies into Hiroshima victims.
Agromax has some Pure Par ( horticulture) T5 that really add some spectrum bump to my boards.



But their Pure Uv lamp is quite powerful and one should wear protective eyewear and reduce skin exposure.
This lamp ramps up triches and hardens the flowers . I built in to a rig running 2QB quantum 96s spaced 2 foot apart.

I only swap in the 6500k bulbs during germ / early veg with main rig dimmed down. It adds blue for shorter node stacking.

 

[Mr.Anderson89]

Here is the issue with adding cfl / flouro lamps .....

The biggest problem with fluorescent tubing is that the light that they give off is only useful for about a foot or so.
That's why they're kept so close to your plants.

Interesting, that means the CFL would be more useful in early stages of bloom.

What about light spectrum and effect on stretch during bloom?

Useful light penetration falls off a cliff as source gets farther away.

View attachment 4639794


T5 lamps would be better suited as corner vertical supplemental ( some grows attach to corner posts of tent ) to “ surround ” plant .
Some growers also use as “ under canopy “ lighting to supplement light to the lowest growth.

I use T5 lamps for UV , BUT they are no closer than 24” ( and on short timers ) as not turn ladies into Hiroshima victims.
Agromax has some Pure Par ( horticulture) T5 that really add some spectrum bump to my boards.

View attachment 4639799

But their Pure Uv lamp is quite powerful and one should wear protective eyewear and reduce skin exposure.
This lamp ramps up triches and hardens the flowers . I built in to a rig running 2QB quantum 96s spaced 2 foot apart.

I only swap in the 6500k bulbs during germ / early veg with main rig dimmed down. It adds blue for shorter node stacking.

View attachment 4639800

This is very useful information thank you. and a beautiful setup btw the UV lights are slightly mesmerizing.
So basically the UV diodes on the QB would notice suffice? And how much UV exposure do they need for optimal effect without damaging the ladies.

 

[mauricem00]

I had no idea about that, im still learning so much. Thank you for the information. The 6500k have more of UVb?



But he should get bigger buds by using more light right?



Would it be overkill?

Ok so that would mean late stage of flower period and have them under the cfl instead since they need less light? There is a dimmer on the Quantum Board as well. He does want a bit of stretch since they clones wont be more than 2 weeks when they go into the flower chamber. Is that induced by red light?
So you would utilize the CFL at the end of the bloom basically? Interesting about the optimal light intensity at end of flowering. Is there a graph or article or similar that shows the optimal light intensity levels through out the weeks and phases?

Thanks for the input guys i appreciate it

a 6500k produces 2.5% UVA

 

[mauricem00]

Here is the issue with adding cfl / flouro lamps .....

The biggest problem with fluorescent tubing is that the light that they give off is only useful for about a foot or so.
That's why they're kept so close to your plants.

these T5s are more than 1 ft away from the top of the plant

more bro science from the LED crowd. I get good buds 2ft below the top of my plant more even coverage

 

[Tetrahedral]

these T5s are more than 1 ft away from the top of the plant

more bro science from the LED crowd. I get good buds 2ft below the top of my plant more even coverage

Nice grow, I use t5's and like LEDs if you space lots close together you get great results and will need them set Futher away.

 

[mauricem00]

Nice grow, I use t5's and like LEDs if you space lots close together you get great results and will need them set Futher away.

I like to play wity LEDs but in my T5tent I veg with 4 6500k then add a FS plus UV and a 660nm bulb for flowering.works great in a 2ft by 4 ft tent with SOG or SCROW

 

[f series]

Adequate light= fat buds

 

[Mr.Anderson89]

these T5s are more than 1 ft away from the top of the plant

more bro science from the LED crowd. I get good buds 2ft below the top of my plant more even coverage

Interesting, and that is an 8x24w light?

 

[Mr.Anderson89]

He is utilizing a similar one but 2x24w in a small clone chamber with 1 dome under.



Also, the 4 mothers are under a 125w 6500k light in a Veg Chamber. In veg, the CFLs are perfect. Can be close to tops, low heat, easy to handle.

Still unsure though as to how to use the extra 2x55w. So it basically could work for both the later bloom and early bloom section.
Which one would be most beneficial?

Here´s a thought, maybe use them in early flower stages with a spectrum that induces stretching (since the clones are around 3 - 4 inches when they enter the flower chamber) A stretch in those conditions would be beneficial right?

Also the way i understand, far - red and infrared induces stretch? Wouldnt the 2100k bulbs have some of that in them?

Another thought is, someone mentioned about needing less light towards end of flower period. So maybe put them under the 2100k and not needing to have to have them really close as to mimic the "less light" needed?

hmmm.. tricky one.

 

[Mr.Anderson89]

Nice grow, I use t5's and like LEDs if you space lots close together you get great results and will need them set Futher away.

He want to do SOG method so many close together. Are you experienced in LEDs for that method? How far should they be you think. At the moment the large ones are about 8 - 12 (20 - 30cm) inches from the light and the clones just entering are about 18 - 20 (50cm) inches from the light. 240w QB

 

[mauricem00]

Interesting, and that is an 8x24w light?

looks like 2 4 ft 8 bulb lights in a 4 ft by 4 ft grow area. I use a 660nm and FS plus UV bulb in a 6 tube fixture with 4 6500k for flowering in a 2 ft by 4 ft tent and am happy with the results 7%uva 30%red over half the red peaks at 660nm. I have seen a noticable improvement in quality and quantity over 3000k red bulbs. been a T5 grower for 6 years now.and have tried HPS (too much heat,hot spots) and LEDs but for a small PU MMJ grow I prefer T5s radien efficiency is about the same as a 400 watt HID (lumens divided by L.E.R) and with the new horticultural bulbs I can get any SPD I want. and light spread is very uniform. ( no hot spots ) but clearly T5s can flower well

 

[mauricem00]

Nice grow, I use t5's and like LEDs if you space lots close together you get great results and will need them set Futher away.

before modern 660nm bulbs became available I made an LED pontoon for my T5 using 48 660nm leds driven at 500 ma and it worked great.I used cheap LEDs from ebay for this test and startedd losing diodes after about 6 month. I found that if I put my light closer than 8 inches growth of the top bud slowed while lower buds grew a little faster (photo inhibition )