I am just about to begin a DWC system in a few days and any info and pointers would be greatly appreciated. So far here's what I know. I will be growing in a 7×4×4 tent . I have 2 600 watt leds. The nutrients I have are General Hydroponics . I'm not exactly sure specifics about my grow system yet because the guy at my local Hydroponic store is building me one . All I know for sure is it will be a 4 bucket system 5 gallons a piece. It will also have a 10 gallon reservoir. He said he was putting 2 air stones per bucket . Any pointers, tips or advice would be appreciated. Should I buy a new electronic PH/PPM / temperature thing ? All I have now is a digital PH meter and digital PPM / temperature. If I do upgrade to the electronic one do I leave the sensors in the reservoir all the time ? What should my PH/PPM/ temperature be in my reservoir? Sorry for such newb questions. By any help would be great. Also any other things that would help would be great.
DWC super Newbie need any help possible.
- Thread starter DA4202020
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sean8049
Member
I'm also just about to start my system for the first time in a couple days. Very similar setup except with a 3 bucket system. What size net pots and growing medium are you using? Ive read that clay rocks/hydroton should be well rinsed and soaked before adding your plugs and that seedlings need to be hand watered or dripped multiple times a day until the roots reach your water level
Nugg_Monkey
Member
Environment is really important, growing in a tent will make things easier only if your climate control is consistent. A steady flow of air in and out of the tent is a must and how that air gets distributed in the tent is important too. Using an extraction fan up top coupled with an oscillating fan in the tent is the easiest way to go, you just need to leave the bottom ports open to let air in. Definitely get reading instruments for EC/PPM, temp and humidity.
If you're using the three parter of GH, ditch the 'Grow' and use only Micro and Bloom. You have the advantage of growing in water so the Nitrogen from the Micro alone is enough, you will need to add more cal/mag though. Basically hydro's main advantage is that nutrients are uptaken more efficiently than soil as soil relies on microbes for nutrient uptake. This doesn't mean it's a good idea to give the plants more nutes because they can take it. The best beginner tip in growing is "Less is more", mainly to counteract all the info you'll bombard yourself with while learning to grow. Here are some easy numbers to keep in your head.
pH 5.8 is the general consensus for optimum range between 5.5 - 6.5.
Temps between 68 - 86
Water temps between 64 - 72 if above this than some kind of anti bacterial is a must.
Anything above 1.3 EC, 800ppm (.5), 400ppm (.7) is the limit for how much to feed the plant.
NPK ratios are something you will have to understand in hydro. A good starting point is that Micro + Bloom in equal parts will give you an even 5 - 5 - 5 ratio. That's even amounts of Nitrogen(N), Phosphorous(P) and Potassium(K). The Micro contains the calcium and all other macro nutrients like Zinc, Manganese, Copper, Iron etc. The Bloom has the Magnesium. Both are deficient in Calcium and Magnesium on their own which is why you will need cal/mag...Everyone does though. I've fed my plants no more than 1ml/L of Micro their entire grow and they're in week 3 of flower with no signs of deficiencies. The Bloom (I use raw ingredients these days) was never above 2.5ml/L worked up from 1ml/L.
If you're using the three parter of GH, ditch the 'Grow' and use only Micro and Bloom. You have the advantage of growing in water so the Nitrogen from the Micro alone is enough, you will need to add more cal/mag though. Basically hydro's main advantage is that nutrients are uptaken more efficiently than soil as soil relies on microbes for nutrient uptake. This doesn't mean it's a good idea to give the plants more nutes because they can take it. The best beginner tip in growing is "Less is more", mainly to counteract all the info you'll bombard yourself with while learning to grow. Here are some easy numbers to keep in your head.
pH 5.8 is the general consensus for optimum range between 5.5 - 6.5.
Temps between 68 - 86
Water temps between 64 - 72 if above this than some kind of anti bacterial is a must.
Anything above 1.3 EC, 800ppm (.5), 400ppm (.7) is the limit for how much to feed the plant.
NPK ratios are something you will have to understand in hydro. A good starting point is that Micro + Bloom in equal parts will give you an even 5 - 5 - 5 ratio. That's even amounts of Nitrogen(N), Phosphorous(P) and Potassium(K). The Micro contains the calcium and all other macro nutrients like Zinc, Manganese, Copper, Iron etc. The Bloom has the Magnesium. Both are deficient in Calcium and Magnesium on their own which is why you will need cal/mag...Everyone does though. I've fed my plants no more than 1ml/L of Micro their entire grow and they're in week 3 of flower with no signs of deficiencies. The Bloom (I use raw ingredients these days) was never above 2.5ml/L worked up from 1ml/L.
Nugg_Monkey
Member
Actually I did let them get a P deficiency as you can see from the purple stems but no more than 1ml/L should be enough. Maybe 1.5 to 2 if you really want to push it but I've managed to grow 5" plants on only a four week veg cycle with no more than 1ml/L of Micro.
Its a 7 foot tall tent so here's a somewhat what it looks like I've been playing with bucket and hose placement and everything. I didn't have enough room in my tent with the buckets and reservoir, so I took my old tent and backed it up to the new one and put my reservoir in there . I have 2 air stones in each bucket and even put 2 in my reservoir ( not sure if I should have or not ) I still have a lot of adjustments to do but here's what I have so far.
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myke
Well-Known Member
yes,u want good air flow to keep the water temp down.Also a lid on it.
myke
Well-Known Member
Yup
Cool thank you everyone for the tips and help . As for the lid the guy at the store that built it didn't give me a lid for some reason. Maybe he forgot? When I do get the lid do I drill a hole in the top of the lid to bring my hose out from the submersible pump or how should I do that ?
myke
Well-Known Member
No the lid can just sit on top a little gap here and there is ok. The purpose is to stop evaporation so when the water level drops it’s the plants drinking not evaporating. That would cause your ppm to rise giving you a false reading.
Tasman69
Active Member
Nug Monkey pointed out some good temps & mike also pointed out that putting the air pump in a cool place helps to lower water temp . Also if you live somewhere with cold winters it can help to suspend your air pump inside your tent to help keep the water temp warmer if required .
Bushbaby11
Well-Known Member
Get rid of the leds, shit.
Keep water temps around 18c
Buy some Silver bullet and put in your res, also every res change add it in.
Loads of bubbles, root mass goes mental, less is more in hydro (low e.c, don't over do it)