Anyone still using HLG QB96v2 Elites

[NukaKola]

That’s awesome! What size space are you running them in? I just need to source and plug and 18 gauge wire and I’m g2g.

I have two 3'x3.5' trays. One tray currently has two 240w 3500k Kingbright QB's and the other tray has a 600w HPS.

Can't decide if I'll replace one of the 240w QB's with the 2 96's and keep the 600w HPS for the other tray. Or get rid of the HPS and go all LED with the 96's in between the two 240w QB's.

 

[Blue_Walker]

I have two 3'x3.5' trays. One tray currently has two 240w 3500k Kingbright QB's and the other tray has a 600w HPS.

Can't decide if I'll replace one of the 240w QB's with the 2 96's and keep the 600w HPS for the other tray. Or get rid of the HPS and go all LED with the 96's in between the two 240w QB's.

Ah okay I see what you’re saying. I’d probably try out all those LEDs and see how you like it!

 

[Blue_Walker]

What wires do you all use to wire on the DC side, from the driver to the board? I’m using an HLG 186h-54A. I’ve read various things and am up in the air about what to get. I was going to originally use 18/3 thermostat wire rates for 150v. I was going to use The third wire as a ground and attach it to the heat sink and run it back to the driver. I have read that some people recommend using 18 gauge 300v rated wire instead. Any thoughts? I have placed an email to HLG To hear it from the source so to speak but haven’t heard anything back yet and wanted to ask.

 

[NukaKola]

What wires do you all use to wire on the DC side, from the driver to the board? I’m using an HLG 186h-54A. I’ve read various things and am up in the air about what to get. I was going to originally use 18/3 thermostat wire rates for 150v. I was going to use The third wire as a ground and attach it to the heat sink and run it back to the driver. I have read that some people recommend using 18 gauge 300v rated wire instead. Any thoughts? I have placed an email to HLG To hear it from the source so to speak but haven’t heard anything back yet and wanted to ask.

18AWG Solid

You don’t need a ground between the driver & board.

 

[Blue_Walker]

Thanks for that link! I’ll go ahead and grab a roll of that. Is there any particular reason I don’t need a ground running from the fixture to the driver? Again I’ve read various things just want to make sure.

 

[NukaKola]

Thanks for that link! I’ll go ahead and grab a roll of that. Is there any particular reason I don’t need a ground running from the fixture to the driver? Again I’ve read various things just want to make sure.

The board only has a positive and negative molex connector and the heatsink it is connected to is anodized aluminum which is non-conductive. The driver output side (DC) is also just a positive & negative wire. If you build a frame out of conductive material and mount the driver to it then it will act as a ground.

The driver input side is AC (alternating current) and is grounded.

 

[Blue_Walker]

The board only has a positive and negative molex connector and the heatsink it is connected to is anodized aluminum which is non-conductive. The driver output side (DC) is also just a positive & negative wire. If you build a frame out of conductive material and mount the driver to it then it will act as a ground.

The driver input side is AC (altern

The board only has a positive and negative molex connector and the heatsink it is connected to is anodized aluminum which is non-conductive. The driver output side (DC) is also just a positive & negative wire. If you build a frame out of conductive material and mount the driver to it then it will act as a ground.

The driver input side is AC (alternating current) and is grounded.

Ah okay that makes sense, thanks!

 

[NukaKola]

Hopefully somebody can chime in on spacing.

I built a frame last night for two QB 96 with a 320h driver and mounted them 18” apart from center to center. I left the frame with some extra length in case I need to space them further. 18-24” seems to be the most common spacing, but is that center to center?

I will say, these suckers are bright!

 

[PJ Diaz]

Hopefully somebody can chime in on spacing.

I built a frame last night for two QB 96 with a 320h driver and mounted them 18” apart from center to center. I left the frame with some extra length in case I need to space them further. 18-24” seems to be the most common spacing, but is that center to center?

I will say, these suckers are bright!

View attachment 4671211

Each QB96 will cover a 2'x2' space plus some overlap, so unless you are planning on dimming them down lower than 120watts each, I'd put them 24" apart (center to center). Personally I don't have mine on a frame, just wire hangers. I prefer that because I can move and raise/lower each one individually to find the sweet spot of each grow.

 

[NukaKola]

Each QB96 will cover a 2'x2' space plus some overlap, so unless you are planning on dimming them down lower than 120watts each, I'd put them 24" apart (center to center). Personally I don't have mine on a frame, just wire hangers. I prefer that because I can move and raise/lower each one individually to find the sweet spot of each grow.

Good to know, I’ll spread them a bit further. I’ll be driving them around 160w/ea. Going to put them between my 240w QB 288’s.

I was going to just hang them individually as I do have hangers for them but didn’t want to deal with the wires when trying to raise/lower them separately since they’re both running from one driver.

 

[PJ Diaz]

Good to know, I’ll spread them a bit further. I’ll be driving them around 160w/ea. Going to put them between my 240w QB 288’s.

I was going to just hang them individually as I do have hangers for them but didn’t want to deal with the wires when trying to raise/lower them separately since they’re both running from one driver.

I have a pair on a driver too, and I don't find it to be any issue at all with the wiring when raising and lowering. I just use solid core wire, and make it longer than I need it to be, then fold it back a bit when I need to raise the lights up. Easy peasy.